Tilkut & ghugni: Nature’s winter prescription

Patna: Winter in Bihar is synonymous with its culinary delights, none more iconic than dahi-chura (flattened rice, especially Bhagalpur's katarni variety, mixed with curd) and tilkut – a sweet made of sesame seeds and jaggery or sugar, often enjoyed during Makar Sankranti. For those less inclined toward sweets, piping hot ‘ghugni' (prepared with fresh peas or ‘hara chana') and a variety of ‘saags' (greens) offer flavourful alternatives.
But are these dishes merely age-old traditions, or do they hold deeper significance tied to health and seasonal changes? Experts suggest the latter. According to doctors and nutritionists, the winter menu in Bihar is not just about taste, it is also a nature's way of helping the body adapt to the season's harshness.
"During the transition from autumn to winter, we see a rise in illnesses due to climatic changes and ecological disturbances," said Dr Rajeev Ranjan, director of Mahavir Arogya Sansthan and former president of the Indian Medical Association, Bihar. "Diabetes, hypertension, cardiovascular issues, vitamin deficiencies and indigestion are common during this period. However, traditional winter foods like sesame and flax seed-based delicacies offer protective benefits."
Explaining the science behind these age-old rituals, Dr Ranjan said, "Sesame and flax seeds are rich in antioxidants, which prevent damage to cells, tissues and organs. They are also cardioprotective and help regulate blood sugar and blood pressure. Jaggery, a key ingredient in tilkut, is not just a natural sweetener but also a rich source of iron and has a low glycemic index, ensuring a slow release of sugar into the bloodstream."
Seeds, he added, are a powerhouse of unsaturated fatty acids, essential for maintaining good health during the cold months.
Sukriti Kumari, head of the nutrition and dietetics department at a reputed private hospital in Patna, stressed the importance of fat during winter. "To protect ourselves from the cold, our body requires insulation, which comes from healthy fats found in sesame, flax and even fenugreek seeds," she said.
According to Kumari, our ancestors had a clever way of enhancing the appeal of these otherwise bland seeds. "By combining them with jaggery, they created dishes like tilkut, tilpatti and flax seed laddoos, which not only taste good but also provide a calorie boost," she added.
Elaborating on why calorie-rich foods are essential in winter, Kumar said, "Calories generate heat as they break down in the body, helping maintain our basal metabolic rate (BMR). In winter, our bodies need more calories to stay warm and function optimally."
Winter's bounty is not limited to seeds and sweets. Fresh greens like leafy vegetables and ‘hara chana' (green chickpeas) also play a crucial role in boosting immunity. "Hara chana, or jhangri as we call it locally, is richer in protein and fiber compared to its dried counterpart. It is also packed with roughage, which aids digestion and provides energy," Dr Ranjan said.
Leafy greens and winter fruits like oranges are equally vital. "These improve immunity and protect against seasonal illnesses, including skin diseases and flu," said Kumari. She advised looking to the national flag for inspiration when planning meals. "Think orange-coloured fruits and vegetables, white dairy and grains, and green leaves and veggies to keep seasonal diseases at bay."
"Regional and seasonal foods are nature's way of fortifying our immunity and protecting us from the health challenges that come with the season," Dr Ranjan said.