The Wizard Of Awws: Sabya weaves a masterful spell

Nostalgia-tinged elegance, unapologetic maximalism, a dazzling front row, and a devoted coterie of power-list admirers - designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s keenly anticipated runway show on Saturday marked 25 years of his fashion journey in style.
The show began with Deepika Padukone – who has been championing the designer on global red carpets and other personal occasions – in a monochromatic ensemble. Nineties’ supermodel Christy Turlington closed the show in a fleece set – turtleneck sweater paired with baggy trousers accented with layers of jewellery.
Sabyasachi gave quintessential Bollywood glam a miss, spotlighting Indian and international models and supermodels who flamboyantly showcased his exquisite designs. The maverick designer continued with the subversion of expectations with bold, eclectic designs that showcased his versatility and his ability to
surprise, question and have fun at the same time.

Skipping the opulent lehengas and ethnic weddingwear that have come to define his brand, Sabyasachi presented a modern, avant-garde lineup that blended contrasting elements with effortless ease. “This collection is a pure act of co-creation and deep respect between the design house and the artisans,” said the 50-year-old designer.
An ode to Kolkata
With nostalgia as the leitmotif for the showcase, Sabyasachi brought the world to his birthplace, Kolkata – a city that continues to shape his design sensibility and his brand. “A sense of place forever touches us. It is inescapable. Who we are and what we become is shaped by what surrounds us,” said Sabyasachi in a statement prior to the show.
The Jio World Convention Centre was transformed into a time capsule, an artistic and loving ode to the ‘Calcutta’ of Sabyasachi’s world, with Bengal tiger motifs, ceramics and vintage décor that blended heritage with modern Indian flair. Caucasian stewards sporting pink turbans welcomed the guests with mocktails and champagne.
The runway was a faithful recreation of old Kolkata neighbourhoods, complete with slatted windows, cast-iron verandahs, clothes hung out to dry and a majestic water fountain reminiscent of the iconic Victoria Memorial as the centrepiece. Only the traditional lion sculptures were replaced by Bengal tigers, of course.

As the show began, guests soaked in soulful strains of Rabindra Sangeet (Jokhon Porbe Na Mor Payer Chinho, written and composed by Rabindranath Tagore in 1916), creating a timeless, immersive experience. The carefully curated playlist also featured classic Bengali melodies by Lata Mangeshkar, Asha Bhosle, Usha Uthup and a Bengali rendition of Leonard Cohen’s We Shall Overcome performed by Vasundhara Vee. The crowd erupted into spontaneous applause and a standing ovation when the designer took a bow with Deepika and Christy.

Sabyasachi’s inspirations
Each ensemble was a masterful amalgamation of references – a delicate headband was a nod to Frida Kahlo, while multiple Madonna-inspired crucifixes made their appearance. A crisp white blouse echoed the elegance of Sabyasachi’s minimalist grandmother, while the lustrous jewels and ornaments evoked the
opulent spirit of his maximalist grandmother.
‘I wanted the world to see India in a new light’
Sabyasachi told us, “The show was not about Sabyasachi clothing, jewellery, accessories. None of it. I wanted to set the record right about the standards of Indian luxury. I wanted the world to see India in a new light because I think luxury belonged to India and it should always reside here. Hopefully, through the show, we managed to reinstate that.”
The art of contrasts
The designer displayed his mastery over contrasts, weaving together disparate colours, textures, and techniques. “My grandmothers were the two most significant influences in my life—one taught me the power of minimalism, the other taught me the exuberance of maximalism,” read the welcome note.
Exquisite embroidery gave the illusion of tweed, velvet appliques were overlaid with sumptuous faux fur, and luxurious Japanese cotton was juxtaposed with pashmina and pebbled ostrich leather. Bomber jackets were resplendent with intricate zardozi and gota-patti embroidery, while miniskirts shimmered in sequins. Ornate hair adornments and Sabyasachi’s signature tinted glasses added a touch of whimsy, paired with tartan trenches ablaze with jewels and spacious, statement-making handbags.

A celebration of nostalgia
Sabya hit rewind by bringing in legendary models Laxmi Menon, Indrani Dasgupta Paul, Sheetal Malhar and Carol Gracias, who added class and elegance to the show that ended with Usha Uthup’s infectiously groovy Koi Yahan Nache Nache (Disco Dancer, 1982). Talking about how nostalgia plays a huge role in his creative process, Sabyasachi said, “This is the mind-space of my collection. I don’t think people buy products anymore. We buy philosophy, culture and values. It is essential for luxury to tell stories about provenance, the communities and the history that bring about creation.”
‘We had 91 models from India, Paris, New York & London and 155 looks’
Show director, Anu Ahuja, shared, “We were working on this show for almost six months. Sabya was clear about what he wanted, and that the focus was going to be on the craft, heritage and India. The whole process was evolving. We had 91 models from India, Paris, New York and London with 155 looks over a runtime of 27 minutes. We did the rehearsals with the models three hours before the show. Christy was like a dream come true.”
I think it was very courageous from a designer that we know & admire: Suzy Menkes

British journalist and leading fashion authority Suzy Menkes, who was in India to cover the event, told ANI, “I think it was very courageous from a designer that we know and admire. He had a lot of new ideas and a lot of things which surprised us. This was India, and that’s what one wants in fashion, something that seems new and fresh.”
The illustrious guestlist
The show’s global positioning was evident in its diverse audience, which included personalities from India, Paris, Pakistan, Dubai, and beyond. On the guest list were Linda Fargo, American fashion icon, Kevin Sharkey, executive VP and director of design for the Martha Stewart brand, Beth Armata from Bergdorf Goodman, Italian-French actress, filmmaker and activist Melania Dalla Costa and Emirati singer Alham AlShamsi, among others. The coveted front row sparkled with business moguls, high-profile industrialists, esteemed international editors, influential bloggers, movie stars and eminent buyers, all of whom had converged to witness the designer’s latest tour de force.

Savyasachi (pronounced as Sabyasachi in Bengali) is a Sanskrit word that means ambidextrous. In the Bhagavad Gita (11.33), Lord Krishna refers to Arjuna as Savyasachi. True to his name, the designer first shot an arrow to India, and then to the West, with equal competence.
Xenophilic Indians who had not thought of Sabya as a serious designer began to treat him with greater respect after a NYT article referred to him as 'The man who made sari haute'.
Take a bow, Sabya