Adventure

A Beginner's Guide to Backcountry Skiing

More and more skiers are skipping resorts and heading for the backcountry. Here's what to know before giving it a try—safely.
The Arctic Triple Backcountry Ski
Kai-Otto Melau/Getty

All products featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

Within the last decade, advancements in gear technology, a rising cost of lift tickets, and a desire to escape crowds have resulted in a boom in backcountry skiing. But as with other outdoor activities, an increase in people hitting the backcountry has resulted in a strain on our natural resources. As backcountry skiing continues to become more popular, as it inevitably will, it makes it that much more important to take care of each other and respect the land they’re recreating on.

According to Tyler Ray, founder of Granite Backcountry Alliance, an organization that helps develop backcountry ski zones around New Hampshire and western Maine (read about some of the best skiing in the northeast here), Ski Kind is a code of ethics rooted in being a “good neighbor” and accounts for situations that backcountry skiers, regardless of experience, should recognize. As the rise in popularity of backcountry skiing continues, people like Ray hope more skiers explore the sport in an informed, respectful manner.

While “earning your turns”—a phrase commonly used to describe putting in the effort to walk uphill before skiing down—can be rewarding, there’s a lot of knowledge, skill, and preparation necessary to safely and responsibly make the transition from the resort to the backcountry. Before you head off the grid, here's what to know about backcountry skiing and snowboarding.

This article has been updated since its original publish date.


What is backcountry skiing?

Put simply, backcountry skiing is the act of skiing in unpatrolled, unmarked, and ungroomed natural spaces. There are multiple ways to access the backcountry, such as snowmobiles, helicopters, or even lifts that provide access to out-of-bounds terrain, but many people choose the human-powered route, hiking uphill with their skis or snowboards before skiing or riding back down to their starting point.

Backcountry skiing allows skiers and riders to avoid crowds and lift lines, instead heading into often untouched terrain. Because of this, it’s important to already be comfortable with skiing moderately difficult in-bounds terrain, in addition to having basic hiking experience, a decent level of fitness, and comfort in the outdoors.

A great way to get used to the gear and hiking uphill on skis (or a split board) is to try it at a ski area before heading into the backcountry. Unlike in the backcountry, ski areas have a ski patrol on staff in case anything goes wrong, giving newer backcountry skiers a sense of security that doesn’t exist in out-of-bounds terrain. Taking every opportunity to leave the groomed terrain at ski areas, opting instead for natural wooded and ungroomed slopes is also a great way to help prepare for a backcountry adventure.

Many ski areas are recognizing an increased demand for uphill travel and are responding by designating specific uphill routes, hours, and offering uphill day passes. One non-profit organization, Uphill New England, even began working with ski areas throughout New England to offer an “uphill only” season pass for the 2023-24 ski season. And while it’s the first of its kind so far, similar passes could pop up elsewhere in the future.

Do I need a guide for backcountry skiing?

When a skier gets injured or lost in the backcountry, there’s no ski patrol ready to help at a moment's notice. As a backcountry skier, you accept that risk as soon as you leave the trailhead. Go with an experienced guide or group for your first excursion—at the least—so you can gather the knowledge necessary to be self-sufficient in the future.

Look for a guide with certification from the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA), which sets certain standards for guides who can be hired through outfits or their own personal companies. If you find a company with non-AMGA certified guides, that’s not necessarily a dead-end. But it’s important to do your homework and read up on each individual guide’s experience, consider how long they’ve been guiding, and make an informed decision as to whether or not you think you might gain something by having them show you the ropes.

Typically, day rates for a guided outing start at $300 to $450, depending on your location and whether it’s a group or private tour, plus a tip for your guide. There are a handful of companies throughout the country that offer guided backcountry trips and courses—including Synnott Mountain Guides, Chauvin Guides International, and Northeast Mountaineering in the Northeast; Vetta Mountain Guides and Irwin Guides in Colorado; and Golden State Guiding in California—though local ski shops are a great resource for recommendations on area guides, too.

Backcountry skiing requires "skinning" uphill before enjoying the ride down.

Getty

What kind of gear do I need for backcountry skiing?

Guide services typically offer gear rentals, sometimes included in the day fee.

If you need to get your own setup, many ski and snowboard companies offer backcountry-specific gear, designed for both uphill and downhill travel. You can ski uphill by attaching synthetic “skins” to the bottom of your skis that allow them to slide forward but not backward. This method of skinning will help you hike up the mountain without carrying your ski gear on your back. And while it is possible to carry your skis or snowboard on your back, instead opting for a set of snowshoes for the hike up, advancements in lightweight touring gear has made the sport more beginner-friendly in recent years. Unlike in years past, it’s no longer necessary to strap heavy gear on a pack during a multi-mile uphill slog.

Splitboards (snowboards that split in half for uphill travel) have also become popular in the backcountry community. Although this gear really is a luxury and not a requirement, it is important to avoid hiking up in boots, which creates “post-holes” in the trail due to boots sinking into the snow, and consequently, unsafe conditions for others.

The Colorado-based ski and snowboard company Weston focuses largely on backcountry split board and ski setups. The company even hosted a free, weekly online webinar series called the “Slay at Home Speaker Series,” which focused on key components of backcountry safety, including gear choice and preparation, as well as region-specific information. The company is no longer actively hosting these webinars, but all of the videos are still posted online and can be invaluable for new backcountry skiers looking to get into the sport.

Most beginners prefer to rent before committing to thousands of dollars of gear. A basic ski touring package, which includes skis or a split board, bindings, skins, and boots typically starts at around $65 per day, and most ski rental shops have backcountry gear (just make sure to call your local spot in advance to confirm). Some sure bets for backcountry setup rentals: The White Mountain Ski Company in New Hampshire; Outdoor Gear Exchange in Burlington, Vermont; and Mammoth Mountaineering and Tahoe Mountain Sports in California. Various REI locations, including their location in Denver, offer backcountry gear rentals as well.

How do I dress for backcountry skiing?

Throwing on your heaviest ski jacket and hitting the trail won’t cut it in the backcountry. Layering properly makes it possible to dress light on the way up and avoid sweat-soaked clothes later. You’ll want to wear a base layer, which is designed to wick moisture from your skin, a mid-layer, such as a fleece sweater or down jacket for insulation, and an uninsulated outer shell for protection against wind and water. It’s important to avoid cotton, which absorbs moisture and stays wet for an extended period of time. Brands like Outdoor Research, Mountain Hardware, Arc’teryx, and Patagonia sell high-quality layers designed for this level of activity.

Arc’teryx’s new Sabre Insulated Midlayer is the perfect example of a lightweight, synthetic midlayer that can easily be packed away during the sweaty uphill hike and thrown on during breaks and for the ride down. The brand also offers outer shells, like their Rush Bib Pant, which is perfect for keeping snow out on the deepest days. A good set of shells will have plenty of ventilation, and space to put on as few or many layers underneath as necessary. Mountain Hardware makes some great, uninsulated ski shell jackets, which also has all the bells and whistles necessary for a comfortable trip into the backcountry. Outdoor Reasearch’s Alpine Onset Merino 150 wool base layers are a great option for both upper and lower body baselayers, and are designed to wick sweat away from the body and dry quickly when they do get wet.

While all this clothing seems fancy and expensive, the investment is worthwhile for anyone thinking about getting into backcountry skiing or any winter backcountry activity (even if it’s just hiking!). Not only does the appropriate gear keep you comfortable during a day in the mountains, it can also be a life-saver should any accidents happen.

Where should I go for backcountry skiing?

Knowing where to go backcountry skiing is one of the most difficult parts of the sport—and not just because those with more experience tend to keep their best spots to themselves. Choosing the right place to ski depends on your personal comfort level with what you can safely ascend and descend, weather, snow conditions, and time constraints, to name a few.

PowderProject is an online resource that outlines backcountry ski zones across the country, though backcountry skiing guidebooks exist for some regions and are a more comprehensive resource than online websites and apps.

Arguably more important than knowing where to go is knowing what areas to avoid—which is why taking an avalanche course before heading out is essential. In recent years, an increase in backcountry users has also resulted in an increase in avalanche-related injuries and fatalities.

Taking a formal avalanche safety course helps backcountry skiers learn which types of terrain and conditions are safe to travel in; many U.S. Avalanche Centers even offer free avalanche awareness classes and seminars, although they aren’t a replacement for an official course. Recognizing avalanche terrain becomes much easier after taking a course and spending time in the mountains. Always traveling with a partner also helps to mitigate, but not eliminate, avalanche risks.

In November, a new app called AspectAvy which utilizes live snow stability information along with slope angles to help determine areas that are and aren’t safe to ski at a given time, was released. This app was designed to be used as an additional tool along with formal avalanche safety training, amidst a nationwide rise of backcountry skiers and riders.

Of course, spending time in risky, avalanche-prone terrain isn’t a requirement for getting into backcountry skiing. If you're concerned about the risk, “stay on terrain that skis like a green trail at a ski area, and you’re probably okay as far as steepness is concerned,” says Mark Chauvin, a New Hampshire-based guide with over 46 years of experience and author of The Ski Guide Manual. Basically, if an area looks much steeper than a typical bunny slope at a ski resort, it’s best to avoid it altogether until you have the tools and knowledge to assess avalanche risk.

If trying out backcountry skiing is on your bucket list, the most important thing to remember is you can start out as small as you’d like. Whether it’s simply skinning uphill at a ski area and ripping groomed runs for the downhill to get accustomed to the gear, or heading into a mellow, forested backcountry zone, the sport can be the most rewarding way to seamlessly blend exercise, adventure, and of course, skiing.