Bandhavgarh National Park: A safari guide's tips on the best time to visit, permits, hotels

Nestled among the Satpura hills in central India is Bandhavgarh, a national park rich in history as well as wildlife. This famous tiger reserve in Madhya Pradesh gets its name from a legend. “Bandhav” means brother and “garh” means fort—it is believed that Lord Ram gifted a fort in this region to his younger brother, Laxman. The park has many sites of archaeological significance, but its glorious tigers remain the landmark attraction.

Prakash Dwivedi was born and raised in a village on the borders of Bandhavgarh. He has spent fourteen years as a safari guide, introducing people to the many charms of the forest he considers his home. Here’s what you should know before planning a trip to Bandhavgarh National Park:

The increased tiger density of Bandhavgarh draws many enthusiasts from within and outside the country. The reserve is spread over more than 1500sqkm and boasts a population of over 120 tigers. Its terrain is characterised by hills, valleys, marshes, meadows and rivers—all of which shelter wildlife ranging from ferocious carnivores to delicate butterflies. Besides biodiversity, the park is also home to many legends and places of historical interest. Within the reserve, one can find Badi Gufa, a 10th-century cave carved out of solid sandstone, said to have housed armies in ancient times. Visitors frequent Three Cave Point, as the structure is known to provide animals shelter from the elements. It is also believed that Sant Kabir and Tansen have stayed in Bandhavgarh.

There are approximately 37 species of mammals and 250 species of birds in the park. The most commonly spotted mammals are tigers, leopards, sloth bears, jackals, and wild dogs. Among the three deer species found in the park, sightings of the sambar deer and the spotted deer are more frequent than those of the elusive barking deer. You will also find 300+ species of birds in the reserve, such as the pond heron, white-necked stork, coppersmith barbet, sarus crane, asian green bee-eater, scarlet minivet, and many more.

Dwivedi has many spotting rituals, but the most important one is to pay attention to sounds in the forest.

Safaris in the core zones happen only from 1st October to the end of June. They remain closed during the peak monsoon season, although the buffer zones are open year-round. If you are mainly interested in spotting animals and birds, summer offers you the best chances. With the heat, the forest’s vegetation starts drying up. Natural bodies of water inside the reserve are very few. Moreover, artificial ones, which are periodically replenished, lie very close to the safari routes. Therefore, animals are obliged to come to these specific locations to drink water—thus increasing the probability of sightings. As foliage becomes thinner, birds can also be spotted more easily.

On the other hand, if you want to enjoy the lush greenery of this majestic park, Dwivedi suggests visiting between October and February. He explains, “In winter, the forest is completely green and provides a scenic backdrop to your sightings. The animals are harder to spot but more at ease. You get to see them leisurely roaming around their habitat—it’s truly wonderful. In the summers, you only see thirsty, frustrated animals pacing in a dry jungle.”

The guide recommends doing at least one safari in each of the three core zones so that you feel that “you have truly experienced Bandhavgarh”. Since no fences or barriers separate each of the zones, animals are free to move between them. Hence, visiting all of them gives you more opportunities to spot different species.

There are two slots in the day for safaris. At present, the morning safari is from around 6:45am to 11:30am, whereas the afternoon one is from 3pm to 6pm. These timings keep changing slightly, depending on the seasons and times of sunrise and sunset. According to Dwivedi, the morning slot is the best, because you get to spend four to five hours in the jungle. Not only is the forest a lovely place to be at that time, but the longer duration improves your chances of spotting the animals. Night safaris happen in the buffer zones from 7pm to 10pm. However, visibility is restricted to what the headlights of your vehicle can illuminate. Although it is thrilling to be in the jungle in the dark, don’t expect to get many sightings.

It is best to book the permits online via the Madhya Pradesh forest office’s website. Dwivedi advises against doing it offline. A permit costs Rs2,450 for weekdays and Rs3,050 for weekends and festival dates. Safari bookings open four months in advance, and only a specific number of jeeps are allowed inside the forest per shift. Hence, it is important to plan ahead. Note that six people (excluding the driver and the guide) are allowed in one jeep. Children aged five years and above are counted among the six.

Once you book a permit, you have to present a hard copy of the same to the forest department office at the Park. They will then allot you a jeep and a guide. The jeep charge is Rs3,000. Guides assigned by the department charge Rs480 or Rs600, depending on their category, G1 or G2. Dwivedi clarifies that there is no significant difference between the two options. Guests can pay extra and choose an independent guide to accompany them. For greater convenience, most hotels offer to handle all the bookings on behalf of the client and charge a service fee.

Unlike other national parks in the country, the formal zoning of the park is relatively recent. Before 2012, Bandhavgarh did not have different zones and well-established regulations. Today, it has three core and four buffer zones. Tala, Magadhi and Khitauli are the core zones exclusively used for safari activities. There are also four buffer zones: Dhamokar, Johila, Panpatha and Paljha. People from nearby villages tend to frequent these zones to collect timber and forest produce. Animal sightings are fewer in these buffer zones because the animals are driven away by human activity and movement. Nevertheless, safaris also take place in these buffer zones (except Paljha).

Dwivedi highly recommends the Tala Zone, which is also the oldest in the park. The Charan Ganga river flows into the Tala Zone from the famous Shesh Shaiya point. In the summers, many animals gravitate towards this natural water body. According to the guide, the natural beauty of this zone, especially during winters, is awe-inspiring.

Hotels near the park arrange bird-watching trips, nature walks, tribal village visits as well as a range of adventure activities. Dwivedi suggests opting for a village visit. These are immersive experiences that give you in-depth insights into the culture, habits and practices of the locals. You may also get to learn about how organic medicines and other natural products are made.

Bagh Tola Bandhavgarh (doubles from Rs16,000* without taxes, inclusive of all meals, book here) is a 30-acre property located a 20-minute drive from the Magadhi zone. Here, you can stay in exclusive luxury tents in the wilderness and feast on homely delicacies by local chefs. If your safari is at the Tala Zone, you could opt for Mahua Kothi—A Taj Safari (doubles from Rs35,000* without taxes, book here) located about five kilometres away. Stay in one of 12 mud cottages with handmade terracotta roofs and private patios, surrounded by bamboo and Mahua trees. A 30-minute drive from the Khitauli zone, Samode Safari Lodge (doubles from Rs35,500*, inclusive of all meals and taxes, book here) boasts 12 private cottages with aesthetic interiors, open-air tubs and al-fresco dining options. Tree House Hideaway (doubles from Rs27,000* including all meals and taxes, book here) offers you the ultimate forest experience, about three kilometres from the Tala Zone. This boutique property consists of five air-conditioned yet rustic tree houses, well-equipped with modern amenities.

The closest airport connected to major cities is Jabalpur (a four-hour drive). If you’re travelling by train, you could get down at Katni Junction (100km drive) or Umaria (33km drive).

You can connect with Prakash Dwivedi at 7067683475 or email him at [email protected]

*Prices are subject to change.

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