Kaziranga National Park: A safari guide’s tips on the best time to visit, permits, hotels

Greater one-horned rhinos, Royal Bengal tigers, Gangetic river dolphins and hoolock gibbons (the only ape found in India)—each of the four zones at Kaziranga National Park offers a sighting as unique as the other. Situated in the lap of the Brahmaputra floodplains, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is not just known for the sheer range of its wildlife, but also its stunning landscapes—from marshy wetlands to savannas that spread as far as the eyes can see.

However, in order to make the most of everything the park has to offer, you have to time your trip right, get your permits in order, and book a hotel that’s conveniently located from the park. Naturalist Pallab Prakash Saikia, who has nearly a decade of experience at Kaziranga and served as one of the guides to the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge during their visit in 2016, offers insider tips on what to spot, the best zones for sightings, and much more.

By boat, on foot, in a jeep, or on the back of an elephant, there is a myriad of different ways to explore Kaziranga, and that’s what makes the park truly special. Unlike many national parks in India, sightings here are guaranteed. “Within the first hour, you will spot at least seven-eight one-horned rhinos, some even with their calves. In another zone, if you hop onto a boat, you’re sure to see Gangetic river dolphins leaping out of the water by the dozen. Even tiger sightings are getting better by the day, with at least one a day. Last year, I even saw a tiger and tigress mating,” says Pallab.

Kaziranga’s lush Terai-Duar savannas are one of the last remaining grasslands of India. The park’s topography of wetlands, grasslands and woodlands is a unique composition, and the density of animals in Kaziranga is found in very few other national parks. Kaziranga has the highest population of one-horned rhinos in the country, with 2,613 rhinos in the park at the moment. According to a 2022 census, the park is also home to 121 tigers. Pallab points out that the rhinos at Kaziranga National Park have become accustomed to being in close proximity to humans. You can witness them in all their glory from as close as 10-20m.

Petting the rhino is strictly prohibited. But Pallab recalls the first time he had the opportunity to touch a rhino. The animal had wandered out of the park and into a neighbouring village due to flooding in the forest. He was desperate to wallow in some mud and water to escape the scorching heat. Pallab and his fellow guides led the rhino to a stream and gently bathed it. “His skin was rough, but he was incredibly placid.” However, it is important to remember that these gentle giants can be quite aggressive when provoked, and are extremely protective of their calves. Tease the rhino, and they will not hesitate to charge.

Kaziranga has 30 mammal species. Besides the one-horned rhinoceros, you can also spot tigers, water buffalos, the endangered swamp deer, elephants, pangolins, porcupines, fishing cats, leopards, hog deer, sambhar, otters, sloth bears, hog badgers, and wild boars. Also, keep your eyes peeled for the Assamese macaque, capped langurs and the hoolock gibbon. Gangetic river dolphins reside in the Brahmaputra, and are easy to sight all year round. They are heavily protected by the local authorities at Kaziranga.

The park also has 500 different species of birds, both migratory and resident. Some of them are winter migrants, while others are summer. Siberian ducks and geese are seen in the winter. Great hornbills, oriental pied hornbills and a variety of raptors are seen all year round.

The park is open from October to April, as Kaziranga gets flooded by the mighty Brahmaputra during the monsoon months. The best time to visit is between November and March, because the cool weather and lack of rain make for an ideal trip, says Pallab. During this period, all the animals, including rhinos, Gangetic river dolphins, elephants and tigers, can be spotted. If you want to bird-watch, November to February is ideal, as the migratory birds start making their way back in March and April. Tourists prefer coming in the winter, while photographers prefer March and April, when the visibility is higher.

Four safaris are ideal; one for each zone, suggests Pallab. Since the boat safaris are almost an hour away from the core zones, he suggests setting a day aside for that.

There are two safari slots each day, one in the morning from 7.30am to 10am, and the other in the afternoon between 1.30pm to 3pm. You are guaranteed a rhino sighting no matter what time you choose to go. However, you can only catch sight of gibbons in the mornings, as they typically rest in the afternoons, and are hard to spot after noon.

Tourists can book permits online on the official website. The entry fee to the park is Rs115* per person for Indians and Rs700* for foreigners. Unlike many other national parks in India, Pallab stresses that visitors need not be concerned about any limitations of slots when they book their permits, as there are a large number of jeeps and guides ready to go at all times of the day.

While it is better to book jeeps online, you can also do it on the spot from the Jeep Safari Association counter, which is located right outside the park. Jeep rentals vary for different zones—central is Rs4,000*, western is Rs4,100*, eastern is Rs4,900* and far west is Rs5,500*. Jeeps and naturalists can also be arranged by your hotel at an extra cost.

It is not mandatory to hire a guide at Kaziranga, as jeep drivers are typically knowledgeable about the park and its wildlife. But if you wish to be accompanied by a local guide, you can hire one on the spot for anywhere between Rs700* and Rs1,000*.

There are four zones in Kaziranga. First is the eastern zone or Agoratoli, which is preferred to spot elephants and birds during the morning slot. The central zone or Kohora is great for tigers and rhinos. While tigers roam in all four zones, the central zone has the highest number and is the best for tiger sightings. The western or Bagori zone is good to spot rhinos, too, as it has a larger grazing area. Since they are easily visible out in the open, this zone is particularly good for rhino photography. Sometimes you can spot tigers here as well. Lastly, the far west or Burapahar zone is good for gibbons and capped langurs.

Located a five-minute drive away from the Kohora gate, the Foxtail Orchid (doubles from Rs4,500*, book here) offers all the creature comforts with lush green views. The Diphlu River Lodge (doubles from Rs33,880*, book here) is perched on a riverbank on the periphery of Kaziranga, and is only a 10-minute drive from the park. The hotel hosted the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge in 2016. IORA The Retreat (doubles from Rs7,250*, book here), conveniently located just off NH715, offers cosy rooms, a swimming pool, a health club and spa, and authentic Assamese food—all in the lap of 20-acre tea gardens. Nestled in a thick bamboo grove with a stunning lake view, you can kick back and relax at Infinity Resorts Kaziranga (doubles from Rs7,000*, book here), which is 30 minutes away from the central zone. Treat yourself to a relaxing spa and authentic Assamese food at Borgos Resort (doubles from Rs6,000*, book here), near the Kohora range of Kaziranga National Park.

You can ride an elephant (for Rs1,450); it won’t take you too deep into the jungle, but you can spot rhinos and several other animals on this joy ride. You can also explore the Burapahar zone of the park on foot accompanied by a guide. If you’re in the mood to spot dolphins, the boat safari adventure starts from Kaliabhumura and Silghat (about 45 minutes away from the core zones), and costs Rs7,000.

Apart from this, you can visit the Kakochang waterfall and National Orchid Garden, or get a taste of the tribal villages of Mising and Karbi. Originally from Arunachal Pradesh, the Mising tribe stays on the banks of the Brahmaputra, and are mostly fishermen. Their houses, which typically have one large room, are built on stilts. Go on a guided walk to discover these villages.

The closest airports to Kaziranga National Park are Jorhat, which is a 2.5-hour drive, and Guwahati, which is a 4-hour drive. The closest railway station is Furkating station, 75km from the park. The station is well-connected with other major railway stations like Guwahati, Kolkata and New Delhi.

You can get in touch with Pallab at [email protected].

*Prices are subject to change.

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