Warning: Do not use these Instructions to Install the kit on

your car without reading tork tech's Instructions first, only

use this as a reference of the modifications needed to
Install on a crown vic, while following tork tech's
Instructions. I'm NOT responsible if it doesn't work on your
car or if something breaks, use at your own risk.

TOOLS NEEDED:
VARIOUS SCREWDRIVES, SOCKETS, EXTENSIONS, HAMMERS, CUTTERS, HEAT GUN,
PLIERS, CRIMPING PLIERS, LOTS OF WIRES 10,12,14, 2,4 GAUGE, BUTT CONNECTORS,
HEAT SHRINK TUBING, TIE WRAPS, RTV, JB WELD, SCREWS, BOLTS, NUTS, WASHERS,
HOSES OF DIFFERENT DIAMETER, CLAMPS OF DIFFERENT DIAMETER, SAWS, GRINDER,
DRILL, DRILL BITS, TORQUE WRENCH, HARMONIC BALANCER PULLER, DYNO TUNE OR
MAIL ORDER TUNE !!
NEW SPARK PLUGS, 255 FUEL PUMP, 180 DEGREE THERMOSTAT, INTAKE GASKETS, MAF
ADAPTER, 90 MM MAF, FUEL INJECTOR ADAPTERS, 42LB INJECTORS, ETC ETC..

DO NOT TRY IF YOU HAVE NEVER WORKED ON A CAR, TAKE TO A SHOP IF YOU CANT
UNDERSTAND HOW IT GOES, ITS NOT HARD BUT IT TAKES COMMON SENSE AND SOME
INGENUITY.
 Modifications needed to Install a TORK TECH supercharger
on a 98-2002 Ford Crown Victoria

Note: The following is how I Installed a tork tech supercharger on my 2001 ford Crown Victoria police
Interceptor it may or may not fit +03 and or other models and years.

Before you start removing stuff from your car, Inspect the supercharger kit, in case you need to return if
damaged so your car is less time off the road, I found mine to a have a nick under the supercharger on
the manifold mating surface, luckily I was able to fix with JB WELD, without returning it to tork tech.
Be prepared to spend a lot money on extra stuff like hoses, clamps, etc, an extra set of hands makes it
easier to Install. Took me about a weekend to have the supercharger Installed by myself and like two
extra weeks to find all the misc parts and stuff.

Follow the Installation Instructions on tork techs website [Link]

Label all your connections and take lots of pictures before you start to
disassemble so you could go back and look at the pictures if you don’t remember,
I didn't need to remove the hood but I removed the wiper cowl to make it easier,
Remove the Intake manifold and salvage all the hardware until you make sure you
don't need them ( the tork tech tuner kit brings hardware ) discard the crash
bracket, Now is a good time to go buy some thermostat housing bolts, the old
ones will probably break off, clean the manifold mating surface, purchase new
Intake gaskets. Next you'll have to modify the heater tube that sits under the
stock manifold. Cut off the hard line right behind the water pump leaving about 4
inches of hard tube so you could install the supplied 5/8 hose over it. Install two
clamps on it,cut the hard line at the other end the picture on the bottom shows
you the back end of the hard line.
Next The cylinder head temp sensor has to be relocated to go on the out side of
the head over the #6 exhaust manifold there is a hole with the same thread.
Below is an image of where it goes in.
Make sure you have lots of wire connectors and wire on hand, also shrink tubing
you are going to have to lengthen the alternator wires, IAC, TPS, IAT and Mass Air
Flow, I relocated the battery to the trunk, using a summit relocation kit (2 gauge
wiring) and a optima red top.

Next assemble your new Injectors on the old fuel rail cut off the old shrink fit lines
on both ends of the fuel rail and replace them with ¼ inch fuel injection hose ( see
pic below circle )and install fuel injection clamps. NOTE: BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE
FUEL RAIL ON THE NEW MANIFOLD ASSY. INSTALL THE ORIGINAL COOLANT
SENSOR ( ARROW ) , IF YOU DON’T IT WILL BE VERY HARD TO TIGHTEN IT WITH
THE FUEL RAIL OVER IT.
Next the stock fuel Injection plugs of a crown vic wont work with the mustang
injectors, Instead of splicing new mustang connector plugs onto the harness , I
recommend buying Injector connector plugs ( EV6 to EV1 ) pictured below.
I did not need to grind the block like it says on tork tech's website, the Intercooler
tubes fit without problems. ( I might have an earlier version of the kit, the never
ones may be different

Before Installing the cross-brace its a good time to remove the accessory
tensioner and removing some metal from it, if not the tensioner will rub on the
cross-brace. ( see pic below )
It's also a good time to change the spark plugs, I'm using NGK TR6 gapped at .
035.

Before Installing the cross-brace you need to remove some metal from the
mounting pedestals on my case it was ¼ of an inch from each side to align the
belt, circled below ( make sure you measure yours, might be different ) below is
the cross-brace
You also need to cut off a stud from the front cover that will rub on the belt ,
remove nut and cut stud flush ( see pic below )
Install the acc. Belt then Install the cross-brace and make sure the belt is aligned.
I deleted EGR so I did not use the Included EGR tube, what I did was fab up a
block off plate from aluminum ( .40 )and cut off the egr tube behind the head,
bent it over it self and sealed it up with JB WELD, I couldn't remove it from the

manifold so that's why I did this.

Assemble your supercharger with the plenum and Install onto the car ( two people
make it easier ) make sure to not disturb the gaskets or drag the supercharger on
the head.
Note: the pictures above show the original Intake manifold bolts Installed finger
tight, the tork tech kit includes hardware, make sure you use the tork tech
hardware and not the original.

You need to purchase a 2000 mustang GT cruise control cable ( about $20.00 from
ford ), the crown Vic cable is too long.
The stock accelerator cable works fine you just need to hold it at the mount, I
used a tie wrap ( see pic below )
Time to cut the hood, if you don't have a garage like me you need to cut it now or
it wont close anymore :).. get your high speed cutter out and climb on top of the
engine and start cutting away. Here are some pics.
Start connecting sensors and plugs, you could use the stock IAC or for a better fit
a 2002 mustang gt IAC works good because its shorter, I went the cheap way and
used my stock IAC with the TPS flipped backwards so it does not hit the IAC. ( see
pic below )
Secure the power steering reservoir to the cross-brace ( I used tie wraps again ;) )
Following the Instructions on tork tech's website for the vacuum routing and
plumbing.
You need to go shopping.

The stock upper radiator hose is too short, the new hose is napa # 8602 like
$20.00
The Intercooler reservoir will be on the way of the overflow bottle, so you need to
go to a junkyard or to the dealer to buy a 92-97 panther coolant tank, (95-97
preferred) along with a 92-97 lower radiator hose ( make sure to use a CVPI hose
2 pieces if you have a CVPI with an oil cooler ) If you want the bottle from the
dealer the P/N is F3AZ-8A080-A, its like $70 , I got everything from a junkyard for
$15
Install the bottle on the passenger side fender how it would install on a 92-97 Vic.
( pic below )
Install the Intercooler bottle and pump, you need to tap somewhere for 12V with
the key ON, I used one of the cooling fan relays mounted on the passenger
fender,( see pic below ) I used the passenger fender radiator ground location to
ground the pump also, ( see pic below ) make sure the ground location is free of
paint and rust.
Install the Intercooler, luckily we have more room than mustangs, this was fairly
easy, I bought an L shaped bracket and some bolts and washers at my local ace
hardware some thinking, drilling and your done.

Remove the plastic shroud over the radiator, you'll see a support brace where the
horns are attached, this brace has a bunch of holes in it, use one that suits you
better, below you could see the L bracket attached to the brace with a bolt and
nut (top view)
Here you see the L bracket from the bottom attached with a screw (I had some of
the hardware laying around) you could use regular bolts.
In the picture below, you could see a seal that runs in front of the radiator, if you
peel it off, there's about ½ an inch of metal from the radiator support that you
could drill into to support the Intercooler from the bottom, (being careful to not
drill through the radiator) this is where you use the bolts and nuts you got at the
hardware store.
TOP VIEW
Here's how the Intercooler pump looks Installed

You need to cut some rubber of the shields on each side (passenger and driver) to
run the Intercooler hoses through.
Here's how I ran the new alternator cable
the alternator is mounted backwards and hits the stock fan, you could use a
smaller 130 amp (4g) Lincoln mark 8 alternator using the mark 8 pigtail and have
about 3 inches of clearance or you could keep the stock one and deal with it ( real
pain to remove the fan though ) , also you could change the fan like I did, to a
slimmer Taurus fan.

Stock alternator and fan

upper rad hose
No clearance with stock fan

here's how the supercharger belt is routed ( really tight to get on )

another one of routing

Notice the washer under the alternator on the pic above (the washers keep the
alternator from rubbing on the engine timing cover)

here are some misc pictures, that might help.

Behind plenum
the above picture shows the Lightning MAF (90 mm) and maf adapter.
If you have any questions or need more pictures or help, send me an email to
nyinterceptor@[Link]