Foreword

This Astronauts Photography Manual has been

prepared by Hasselblad in close cooperation with
the Training and Man-Machine Divisions at the
Johnson Space Center of the National Aeronautics and Space Administration. As a guidebook
for the NASA Photography Training Program, it
not only describes the operation of the Hasselblad 500 EL/M cameras used on the U. S. Space
Shuttle but is also a concise manual on photography to assist astronauts in creating the best
possible space photographs.
Hasselblad cameras have performed with precision on every manned space flight since 1962
and undoubtedly future missions will continue to
yield those awe-inspiring and beautiful images
from space - a priceless pictorial legacy for future
generations.

A Hasselblad lunar data surface camera was mounted into the Shuttle
Pallet Satellite and operated remotely by the astronauts by means of a
radio signal to record images of the Challenger in flight.

Table of Contents

Sunlight coming through the windows can make beautiful "available

light" shots. The slide is perfectly exposed for the most important part of
the scene - the astronauts facial flesh tones.

Camera Controls.............................................................................................. 2
Film Magazine Controls.................................................................................... 2
Viewfinder Controls.......................................................................................... 3
The EL/M Power Supply................................................................................... 4
Releasing the Camera...................................................................................... 4
Remote Operation............................................................................................ 5
Camera Steadiness.......................................................................................... 5
Operating Modes.............................................................................................. 6
Film Magazines............................................................................................ 6, 7
Film Magazine with Databack.......................................................................... 8
Permanently Attached Databack...................................................................... 8
Databack with Removable Module................................................................... 8
Changing Lenses............................................................................................. 9
Lenses............................................................................................................ 10
Lens Controls............................................................................................10, 11
Viewing........................................................................................................... 12
Diopter Adjustment......................................................................................... 12
Focusing......................................................................................................... 13
Focusing Suggestions.................................................................................... 14
Depth of Field..................................................................................... 14, 15, 16
Depth of Field at Different Apertures.............................................................. 15
Depth of Field with Different Lenses............................................................... 16
Focusing for Depth of Field...................................................................... 17, 18
Use of Lenses.................................................................................... 19, 20, 21
Lens Aperture................................................................................................. 22
Shutter Speed................................................................................................ 23
Setting Aperture & Shutter Speed.................................................................. 23
Changing Aperture & Shutter Speed.............................................................. 24
Exposure........................................................................................................ 24
Exposure from Charts.................................................................................... 24
The Exposure Meter....................................................................................... 25
ASA/ Shutter Speed Setting........................................................................... 26
Viewfinder on Meter........................................................................................ 26
Operating Meter....................................................................................... 26, 27
Determining Lens Settings with Exposure Meter...................................... 27,28
Exposing for Sun or Shade............................................................................ 29
Exposing for Slides......................................................................................... 29
Exposing for Negative Film............................................................................ 29
High Contrast Scenes.................................................................................... 29
Bracketing Exposure...................................................................................... 29
Exposure Techniques..................................................................................... 30
Composition....................................................................................... 31, 32, 33
Obtaining the Most Effective Images.................................................. 34, 35, 36

Hasselblad 500 EL/M Camera

Camera Controls:
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)

Operate Push button

Mode Selector (taped)
Lens Cocking Tool (Under tape)
Remote Connector
Battery Compartment
Battery Compartment Lock
Lens Release Button

Film Magazine
Controls:
8) Magazine Release Button
9) Magazine Insert Lock (Taped)
10) Darkslide
11) Frame Counter
12a) End of Film Indicator
12b) Film Advance Indicator
14

11

12a

4 12b

13

Viewfinder Controls:
13) Prism Viewfinder
14) Diopter Correction Eyepiece
15) Lock for Correction Eyepiece
16) Rubber Eyecup

10

15

16

The EL/M
Power Supply

The electric film advance is powered by

two 6V rechargeable nickel cadmium
batteries located in the battery compartment. Two fully charged batteries provide
power for approximately 2000 exposures
and changing the batteries should not be
necessary. A slowing down of the winding cycle, however, indicates low battery
voltage and that both batteries need to be
changed.
The battery compartment is opened by
turning the slotted compartment lock (6)
counter clockwise to the vertical position
using the lens cocking tool (3). Remove
the compartment cover (Fig. 1). Always
remove both batteries and insert one
spare battery in either compartment. Bat-

FIGURE 1

Releasing the Camera

teries (A) are inserted with the (+) end first

(Fig. 2). Properly inserted, the batteries
rest on a spring and can be pushed up
&down. When inserted the wrong way, the
cover cannot be closed easily and may
be permanently bent. Do not force. Check
position of batteries. Cover is re-attached
by placing the hooks at the front of the
cover into the openings (D) in the camera
then pressing the rear firmly towards the
compartment while turning the slotted lock
(6) clockwise to the horizontal (locked)
position.
NOTE: Camera operates only if a fuse in good
condition is in the fuse receptacle. The fuse (C)
can be replaced and inserted in (B) either way.

FIGURE 2

The image is recorded on the film by

pressing the operate push button. The
shutter is re-cocked, and the film advanced to the next frame, when removing
the finger from the button. A second exposure can be made as soon as the winding
cycle is completed. If the camera does not
operate when the release is depressed:
1. Darkslide may be inserted in film
magazine. Remove it.
2. There may be no film left in magazine.
Check film load signal (12a) if red,
change magazine.
3. The fuse is dead. Replace.
4. The batteries may have no charge left.
Replace.

FIGURE 3

Remote Operation

Camera Steadiness

Camera can also be released with remote

cable, Remove socket cover (Fig. 3) by
turning it counter clockwise and attach
remote release cable to remote connector
4. The camera operation is determined by
the position of the mode selector (page 6)
one picture in position 0 - or sequences in
position A.

The camera must be perfectly steady

when the exposure is made. Camera motion while the film is being exposed can
result in unsharp pictures. Reduce the
danger of camera movement by:

FIGURE 4

1. Holding camera firmly with both hands,

one hand on the bottom, the other on
top (Fig. 4&5). 2. Pressing both elbows
into your body for additional support.
3. Pressing rubber eyepiece of the viewfinder against your viewing eye to form
a firm contact between the forehead
and finder (Fig. 6).
4. Holding Breath.

FIGURE 5

5. Pressing the operate push button

slowly and gently so you are hardly
aware when the exposure is made
and keeping it depressed until the
exposure is completed. Don't jerk the
release or depress it rapidly.
NOTE: Perfect camera steadiness is important
with aIl lenses - but more so with the 250mm
Sonnar. The long focal length magnifies camera
shake.

FIGURE 6

Operating Modes

Film Magazines

1) The mode selector is set at 0 at launch

and taped over (Fig. 7). Do not remove
the tape and change the setting except
for automatic sequence operation.
2) For automatic sequence operation
(1 picture per second) remove tape,
change selector to A (Fig.8). When
the release is depressed, the camera
takes pictures at regular intervals of
1frame/second as long as the release
is kept depressed - and as long as
there is film in the camera. When sequence is completed, change dial back
to 0 and re-tape.

To attach a film magazine to the camera body, hook the magazine onto the
two lower support catches (E) (Fig. 9),
swing the top of the magazine firmly and
completely against the upper catches (F)
and camera body while at the same time
sliding the magazine release button (8) to
the right (Fig. 10). After the magazine is
attached remove darkslide (Fig. 9a).
To remove a magazine, insert darkslide
(10) slide magazine release button (8) to
the right (Fig.11), lift off magazine (Fig.
12).
NOTES: a) Magazines cannot be attached or
removed unless darkslide is inserted. b) Never
remove the darkslide from a magazine that is
not attached to the camera. It would expose
some of the film in the magazine.

FIGURE 7

FIGURE 8

OPERATlNG SIGNALS: (Fig. 13)

The film magazine includes a frame counter (11) which counts up and indicates
number of frames exposed. Check once
in a while so you do not run out of film in
the middle of an important picture taking
sequence. There are about 120 frames
on a roll of film. There is also an end of
film indicator (12a). It turns from white to
red when the roll of film is finished and at
that moment the camera will stop operating. Film advance indicator (12b) goes
from white to red to white to show film is
advancing properly.

FIGURE 9

FIGURE 10

FIGURE 11

FIGURE 9a

FIGURE 12

FIGURE 13

Film Magazines with

Databacks

Permanently Attached
Databack

Databack with
Removable Module

Some or all film magazines used on your

mission may be equipped with a databack.
It may be permanently attached to the
magazine (Fig. 14) or have a removable
electronics module which can be switched
from one magazine to another (Fig. 15).

Proper operation is indicated by a green

LED at rear. Check whether it goes on and
off after the exposure. This indicates that
the data recording has been successful.

The electronics module is removed by depressing the latch and sliding the module
towards the rear. It can now be attached
to another magazine in the same fashion
by depressing the latch again (Fig. 15). It
is made operative with the On/Off Switch.
Make certain that the exposure setting
switch is set for the ASA rating of the film
in that particular magazine.

The film magazine of either version is attached to the camera body, as is the regular magazine 100/200 but the magazine
release button (8) is pushed towards the
left (not right). To remove a film magazine,
push the magazine release button again
towards the left (Fig. 14).

Position 1 for ASA 25 - 100

Position 2 for ASA 100 - 400

Position 3 for ASA 400 - 1600

Position 4 for ASA 1600 - 6400

Instructions for the correct setting will be

supplied.
A green LED lights up momentarily at the
end of each shot to indicate a successful
data recording.
Malfunctioning or low battery power is
indicated by a red LED. The batteries,
however, have sufficient power for an
entire flight.

FIGURE 14

FIGURE 15

Changing Lenses

To remove a lens, press lens release

button (7) and turn lens counterclockwise
about 1/10 turn (Fig. 16). To attach a lens,
match red marking on lens barrel with red
marking on camera body (Fig. 17). Turn
lens firmly clockwise until it clicks positively in place (Fig. 18). Do not depress lens
release button when attaching a lens.

b) Lenses can be attached only if the camera

body is cocked and the shutter in the lens is
also cocked (open). (Shaft J) in lens is opposite red dot (L) (Fig. 19). If a shutter should
have been closed accidentally while lens was
removed from camera insert lens cocking tool
(3) located under the taped mode selector (2)
in shaft slot (M). Make a full turn clockwise in
the direction of the arrow. (Fig. 20)

NOTES:
a) Lenses can be removed only when the shutter is cocked, which is normally the case on
the EL/M. The lens could be uncocked only
if the camera stops before completing the
cycle due to low battery power, or if a fuse
is blown. If so change batteries to complete
cycle or change fuse.

FIGURE 18

FIGURE 19

FIGURE 16

FIGURE 17

FIGURE 20

Lenses

Lens Controls

Hasselblad cameras may be equipped

with either "C" lenses or "CF" lenses. The
"c" lenses have a VXM lever on the left
side (Fig. 21)

17) Focusing Ring with distance engravings

18) Lock for "F" setting ("CF" lens only)
19) Aperture Setting Ring with aperture engravings
20) Shutter Speed Ring with shutter speed engravings
21) Index for distance, aperture &shutter speed
22) EVS Engravings
23) Index for EVS Setting
24) Lever for unlocking aperture & shutter speed (on "c" lenses only)
25) Button for interlocking aperture and shutter speed rings (On "CF" only)
26) Movable depth of field indicators (on "c" lenses only)
27) Engraved depth of field indicators (on "CF" lenses only)
28) Flash Sync Lever, (must be on X or M) (on "c" lenses only)
29) Flash cable connector
30) Manual diaphragm stop down

This control is only on the "C" lenses (Fig.

21), not the "CF" types (Fig. 22). Otherwise, the lenses differ only in the location
and operation of the lens controls.

C Lens

FIGURE 21

CF Lens

FIGURE 22

10

11

C Lenses

FIGURE 23

FIGURE 24

FIGURE 25

CF Lenses

FIGURE 26

FIGURE 27

FIGURE 28

Viewing

The prism viewfinder (13) provides a

magnified, upright and laterally correct
image. Make certain that you always see
the entire square groundglass screen from
corner to corner. This requires placing
your eye firmly against the rubber eyecup
(16) and in the optical center of the eyepiece lens (Fig. 29 & 31).This is especially
important when photographing through the
windows in the space shuttle. You may not
see a window frame cutting into part of the
image unless you move your eye around
the viewing screen. The rubber eyecup
which 0ffers a comfortable support for
viewing can be turned for left or right eye
viewing. Pressing eye and forehead firmly
towards the viewfinder eyepiece also
provides an important camera support for
increased camera steadiness.

Diopter Adjustment

NOTE: It is recommended that you remove

your eyeglasses. Eyeglasses prevent the close
contact between eye and eyepiece. They also
allow objectionable light to enter between the
eyeglasses and eye. (Fig. 31).

FIGURE 30

FIGURE 29

FIGURE 31

The prism viewfinder is equipped with an

adjustable eyepiece (14) (Fig. 29). It may
be adjusted to your eyesight for accurate
focusing and strain-free viewing. Remove
lens from camera. Remove eyeglasses.
View through finder and turn diopter
adjusting ring (14) until the groundglass
screen appears critically sharp. Remove
the eye, relax it for a moment by looking
at infinity, and view through the finder
once more to ascertain that the screen is
still sharp. The eyepiece is now adjusted
to your eyes. Lock it with screw (15) (Fig.
29).
NOTES:
a) It is suggested that you read the diopter
setting after adjusting the eyepiece to your eyesight (-1 in Fig. 30). This makes it unnecessary
to repeat the diopter adjustment after someone
else uses the camera simply set it to your predetermined number (-1 for example) and lock it.
b) If you cannot view without eyeglasses,
make the adjustment on the diopter correction
eyepiece with the glasses on. c) The viewfinder
is not meant to be a handle for carrying the
camera.
d) Should the image in the finder appear dark
the diaphragm in the lens is probably stopped
down. To re-open it, proceed as described
under "lens aperture" (Page 22).

12

Focusing

13

The prism finder is also used for focusing

the lens (setting the lens for the camera to
subject distance). The groundglass screen
is split into various sections (Fig. 32):
(A) Groundglass screen area.
(B) Bright microprism area.
(C) Split image rangefinder.

NOTES:
a) With the 250mm lens, one of the range finder
fields remains dark. Focusing must be done in
the microprism or groundglass area.
b) The image always appears sharp in the
rangefinder area, so you must have a straight
line intersecting the split.

The distance is set by turning the focusing

ring on the lens until one or more of the
following conditions are achieved:
1) The image (Fig. 33a) appears sharp
on the groundglass (Fig. 33b).
2) You see a fine detailed image within
the microprism area (Fig. 33b).
3) A straight line crossing the split in the
rangefinder (Fig. 34a) appears unbroken (Fig. 34b).

FIGURE 32

FIGURE 33

FIGURE 34

Focusing Suggestions

Depth of Field

1) For fast and accurate focusing, turn

the focusing ring quickly back and forth
over the point of sharpness making
smaller and smaller back and forth
movements until the point of sharpness is locked in. This is better than
turning the focusing ring slowly in one
direction towards the point of focus
(Fig. 36).
2) Do not try to focus visually for earth
shots, simply set lens at infinity.
3) If all the important elements are at the
same distance (not some closer and
some further away), simply turn the focusing ring until these subjects appear
sharp in the finder.
4) If important subjects are at different
distances (in front & rear of cargo bay
for instance) try to set the lens so that
both are sharp. That means setting the
lens for depth of field.

Theoretically, on Iy subjects that are

exactly at the focused distance (Fig. 37)
appear sharp on the film. Sharpness
gradually falls off in front of and beyond
the set distance. On the photographic print
or transparency, however, some degree of
"unsharpness" is acceptable. This range
of acceptable sharpness is called depth
of field. One third of the total depth of field
is in front of the focused distance and two
thirds beyond (Fig. 37).

NOTE: The CF lenses have distance scales in

feet and meters. The footage scale is in orange,
the meter scale in white.

The depth of field scale on the lens is

used to determine the depth of field range.

FIGURE 36

On Hasselblad C lenses (Fig. 38/39)

depth of field is indicated by the two red
pointers which move automatically as
the aperture ring is turned. The distances
opposite the two red pointers indicate the
range of acceptable sharpness.
On the Hasselblad CF lenses, the depth of
field is engraved (Fig. 40/ 41 ). Read the
close and far distances opposite the two
white lines corresponding to the aperture
set on lens (11 if lens set at f/11 ).
The depth of field range depends mainly
on the lens aperture. At large apertures
(f/5.6 in Fig. 38 &40) depth of field is less
than at small apertures, (f/22 in Fig. 39 &
41 ).

14

15
Depth of Field at different apertures

FIGURE 38
Large Aperture gives
shallow depth of field

FIGURE 39
Small aperture gives
great depth of field

FIGURE 37

FIGURE 40
Large aperture gives
shallow depth of field

FIGURE 41
Small aperture gives
great depth of field

Depth of Field with Different Lenses

Depth of field also varies with lens focal

length. The 50mm lens (Fig. 43) has
more depth of field than the 100mm (Fig.
44). The 250mm (Fig. 45) has less if the
lenses are used from the same distance
(each lens covers a different area).

16

NOTE: Sharpness beyond the depth of field

range falls off more rapidly with the longer
lenses. Backgrounds are blurred more with the
250mm than the 50mm wide angle.

The 50mm has depth of field from 50 feet

down to 7 feet (Fig. 43) the 100mm at the
same aperture from 50 feet only down to
17 feet (Fig. 44), while the 250mm goes
from 50 feet only down to 40 feet (Fig. 45).

50mm

FIGURE 43
50mm Wide Angle has depth of
field from 50' down to 7'

100mm

FIGURE 44
100mm standard has depth of field
from 50' down to 17'

250mm

FIGURE 45
250mm Telephoto has depth of
field from 50' down to 40'

Focusing for Depth

of Field

If subjects at different distances are to be

recorded sharply, set the lens for depth of
field. Proceed as follows:
1) Focus the lens at the farthest subject
to be sharp. Read the distance on the
scale (30') (Fig. 46).
2) Focus the lens at the closest subject
to be sharp. Read the distance on the
focusing scale (8') (Fig. 47).
3) Set the lens, so the two distances are
within the depth of field indicators (Fig.
48).

17

NOTE: If the two distances cannot be placed

within the depth of field range (because of
exposure requirements), decide whether it is
more important to have the background or the
foreground sharp, and set the lens accordingly.

FIGURE 46
30' is the farthest
subject distance

Focusing for Depth of Field

18

FIGURE 47

8' is the closest subject distance

FIGURE 48

14' is the distance set on lens

Use of Lenses

19

Three different focal length lenses are

used on Hasselblad. The focal length
engraved on the lens determines the
angle of view and thus the size of the area
included in the picture.
1) The 100mm Planar has a diagonal
angle of view of 43. It is called a standard lens as it records an image on the
film that looks in a "natural" perspective. Subjects at different distances
from the camera appear as we see
them with our eyes.
2) The 50mm's wide angle of view
(measured diagonally) is 75. It covers
a larger area from the same distance
and includes large background areas
(e.g. a large part of the earth). Subjects are recorded smaller compared
to the standard lens. Background
appears farther away. It enhances the
size relationship of subjects close and
far.
3) The 250mm telephoto has a narrower angle of view of 18. It covers
a smaller area, and magnifies the
subject, (2% times compared to the
100mm lens). It includes small background areas (e.g. small part of earth)
and compresses perspective. Distant
subjects appear closer.

The 50 mm wide angle (top) covers a larger

area, and the 250 mm telephoto (bottom) a
smaller area than the 100mm "standard" when
used from the same distance. With the wide
angle, distant subjects are smaller and thus
appear further away. The telephoto magnifies
subjects and brings them closer.

A short focal length lens (top) covers a large

background area (from a to b). A longer focal
length lens used from a longer distance (bottom) covers a smaller background area (from c
to d) while the main subject (the model) is the
same size in both.

Different focal length lenses can also be used

to cover the same area by photographing from
different distances. While the subject size is the
same, the perspective is not.

Use of Lenses

20

The cargo bay area photographed with different

focal length lenses. The 100mm (1) records the
area as normally seen, the 50mm wide angle
(2) makes it appear longer and the 250mm
telephoto (3) magnifies the distant details.

The use of different focal length lenses to

photograph the earth - 100mm (1), 250mm
telephoto (2).

21

The 50mmm wide angle used in (1) made

the church appear to be far away from the
sign. With the telephoto (2), used from a
longer distance, the sign is recorded of
equal size but the church appears much
closer. This size relationship between fore
and background is known as perspective
and is determined by the camera/subject
distance. The wide angle lens (1) also
includes a much larger background area
than the telephoto.

A small lens aperture (f/22) with its large depth

of field produces an image as we see it with
our eyes (3). The shallow depth of field at a
large aperture (f/4) produces an image that is
pictorially more striking, and can be used to
blur foreground and background to enhance a
particular subject (4).

Lens Aperture

The lens aperture indicates the diameter

of the diaphragm opening. It changes by
turning the aperture ring. In addition to
depth of field it also controls the amount of
light that reaches the film.
At a high f number, (22, for instance) the
diaphragm opening is small, and lets in
less light (Fig. 49). At a small f number,
(4, for instance) the diaphragm opening is
larger, and lets in more light (Fig. 50).

22

appears darker than normal, the aperture may

have stopped down accidentally. If so, re-open
it by doing the following: For "C" lenses. Turn
the aperture ring until the maximum aperture
(smallest f#) is opposite the white index. This
may require uncoupling aperture & shutter
speed ring by depressing lever (24) towards
camera body, (Fig. 51), and turning aperture
ring (19) alone to max. aperture, (smallest number). Re-set the ring to the correct aperture and
shutter speed combination. For "CF" lenses.
Depress the bottom of the stop down lever (30)
and push the entire lever upwards (Fig. 52).

NOTE: The lens aperture is normally fully open

to provide the brightest image for viewing. In
case the groundglass image

High f number is small aperture

FIGURE 49

Low f number is large aperture

FIGURE 50

FIGURE 51

FIGURE 52

Shutter Speed

Setting Aperture &

Shutter Speed

There is also a shutter in each lens. It

opens and closes when the release is
depressed. The length of time the shutter
stays open is set on the shutter speed ring
engraved from 1 to 500 meaning 1 second
to 1/500 second.

On some "C" lenses and on all "CF"

lenses, aperture and shutter speed rings
are not coupled. Each can be turned
independently. The two rings on the "CF"
lenses can also be coupled by depressing
interlocking button (25) (Fig. 53).

The longer the shutter speed, the longer

the film is exposed to light. Changing the
shutter speed from 1/125 to 1/250 sec.
makes the image darker - changing from
1/125 to 1/60 makes it one stop lighter.
Whenever possible, select short shutter
speeds when using the camera handheld.
Leave the shutter speed at 1/250 sec.
Change to a slower speed only when low
light levels require it, and if so, do not go
below 1/60 sec. and then only with the 50
and 100mm lenses. Never use a speed
slower than 1/250 sec. with the 250mm
Sonnar.

On some lenses, aperture and shutter speed rings are coupled. They both
change together while turning knurled
front ring (20). As you change the aperture (e.g. from f/4 to f/8) the shutter speed
changes (from 1/250 to 1/60).

23

You can set the aperture separately by

pressing the cross coupling lever (24) to
the rear and turning the aperture ring (19)
(Fig. 51). With the cross coupling lever
pushed towards the rear, you can also
change the shutter speed separately by
turning the shutter speed ring (20) with the
other hand.
Coupling aperture and shutter speed ring
offers the advantage that all the interlocked settings provide exactly the same
exposure. (See page 24).

NOTE: In case shutter speed ring on CF lenses

has accidentally moved to the green F setting,
depress green lock button (18) and re-set ring
to correct shutter speed,

FIGURE 53

Exposure

Changing Aperture &

Shutter Speed

Exposure from charts

The film in the camera must receive a

specific amount of light to produce a
properly exposed image. The total amount
of light that reaches the film is determined
by the combination of aperture size and
shutter speed. The same exposure can be
obtained with a longer shutter speed and
small aperture or a short shutter speed
and large aperture. Changing from a low
f number to the next (f/8 to f/11) means
letting in only half the amount of light. You
can compensate for this loss of light by
letting the light go through the lens twice
as long, i.e. setting the shutter speed at
1/125 instead of 1/250.

With the aperture and shutter speed rings

interlocked, all combinations give the
same exposure. To say it in a different
way, if you change the aperture or shutter
speed on the interlocked rings the shutter speed or aperture size automatically
compensates. To increase or decrease
the light going through the lens, you must
unlock the coupling and change either the
aperture only or the shutter speed only, or
both.

A general exposure setting can be used to

photograph any part of the earth but only
when the sun is at or near maximum sun
angle i.e. approximately 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

The necessary lens settings for correct exposure can be obtained from charts, from
previous experience or from an exposure
meter.

When the sun is at an angle of less than

30, lens aperture must be opened one or
two f stops to avoid underexposure. Consult the sun angle exposure chart supplied
for your mission.
In summary, for earth shots, determine
the sun angle, then consult the sun angle
chart and set each lens accordingly. Never
use the spotmeter for determining the lens
settings for earth shots.

24

The Exposure Meter

25

MEMORY CLEAR

ASA/TIME SELECT

TRIGGER

VIEWFINDER DISPLAY ILLUMINATION

BUTTON

OFF/ON SWITCH

10 SHADOW BUTTON
11 AVERAGING BUTTON
12 HIGHLIGHT BUTTON
14 ASA/TIME INCREASE BUTTON
15 ASA/TIME DECREASE BUTTON
16 VIEWFINDER EYEPIECE
18 EV/ F NO. SELECT BUTTON
19 RECALL (MEMORY)
20 MEMORY

NOTE: The meter is battery powered.

There are no spares on-board.
Indication of bad batteries is a flashing meter
display.

FIGURE 55

ASA/Shutter Speed
Setting

Viewfinder

Before you use the exposure meter ascertain that it is set for the ASA rating of the
film in the camera and the shutter speed
set on the lens. The ASA rating is indicated on the Hasselblad film magazine.

Adjust the viewfinder to your eyesight by

turning the eyepiece guard (16) until the
10 circle engraving appears sharp.

Turn meter on by sliding the on-off switch

to ON. Check the ASA setting by depressing the ASA/Time select key (3). Read
ASA. If number is too low, depress ASA/
Time increase key 1 (114) repeatedly until
the right value appears. If too high, depress the ASA/Time decrease key (15)
repeatedly until the ASA value is correct.

NOTES: Meter readings should always be

made with the eye covering the eyepiece to
prevent light entering the ocular and affecting
the meter reading.
Exposure reading is not affected by the eyepiece adjustment Never point meter directly at
the sun.

Check the shutter speed setting by

depressing the ASA/Time key (3). If the
shutter speed is lower than the camera
depress the increase key 1 (14) repeatedly until the shutter speed corresponds
(120 for 1/125 sec.) If too high, depress
the decrease key! (15) repeatedly untiI the
value corresponds.

Operating Meter

To take a meter reading, place the 10

circle over the area you want to measure
(Fig.56). Press and hold the release
trigger (4) until a reading appears in the
finder LCD display. After the display stops
changing release the measure button to
hold the reading. Set aperture on lens
according to reading in display window
(Fig. 57).
The meter reading (the f number) can be
read in either of three places: 1) digital
display on side, 2) indicator above side
digital display, and 3) digital display in
viewfinder.
The digital display of f/stop indicates
"Tenth's of a stop" as a small or subscript
number. This can be rounded off to the
nearest 1/2 stop. For example a small
0 behind number 5.6 (Fig. 57) indicates
exactly f/5.6. The f#8.03 (Fig. 58) means
3/10 of an f stop smaller than f/8, (less
light than f/8). Set aperture between f/8
and f/11.

NOTES: The display should not show a small

S or M (this would indicate seconds or minutes
rather than fractions of a second.) The ASA and
shutter speed display can only show 0 in the
third and fourth digit Thus 64ASA will appear as
64; a 1/ 125 shutter speed as 120.

FIGURE 56

FIGURE 57

26

Determining Lens Settings with

Exposure Meter

If an "E" (error) appears in the number

display, it means the range of the meter
has been exceeded. Some parameter
needs to be changed shutter speed and/
or film type.
Meter remains active for 2 minutes after it
is turned off.
NOTES: Meter readings can be taken only
while in the TIME mode not ASA mode. F No/
EV key should not have to be actuated. The
meter is launched in F No mode.
Do not depress shadow (10) or highlight (12)
buttons.

FIGURE 58

A basic understanding of light measuring

will help you to use the exposure meter
properly.
The lens settings that provide correct
exposure are based on the amount of light
falling on the subject you photograph, not
reflected off the subject. The lens settings
must be the same whether you photograph a subject that is white, gray, black,
yellow, red, green or blue or whatever
the color might be as long as the same
amount of light (X in Fig. 59) falls on them.
Your meter, however, does not measure
the light that falls on the subject, but the
light reflected off the subject. Its reading is
based on

FIGURE 59

27

the amount of light reflected off the very

small area inside the circle in the meter
finder. The meter reading is different if you
point the meter at a white, gray, black,
green, blue, or red area even though the
same amount of light falls on all (Fig. 60).
Point the center circle of the meter at gray
or green, it might show f/11 at white or yellow f/22 and at black or dark brown f/5.6.
Which is correct?
The readings shown on your meter are
correct only when the center circle is
pointed at a subject or area that reflects
approximately 18% of the light. It is incorrect when the reading is taken off an area
that

FIGURE 60

Determining Lens Settings with

Exposure Meter continued

reflects more or less. If you set the lens for

the white reading (f/22 1/125), white would
be recorded as gray, not white. The image
is underexposed. A lens set for the black
reading (f/5.6 1/125) would record black
also as gray, not black. The image is overexposed. This problem can be overcome
in various ways:
A) Whenever possible, point the center
circle at an area that reflects approximately 18% of the light - green, light
brown, gray - and use the indicated
setting.
B) Point the center circle at whatever
area is most important then try to
estimate whether the area in the circle
reflects more or less than 18% and if
so adjust the lens setting. When reading a bright (white) area open aperture
one to two f stops (Fig. 62a). When
reading a dark area, close aperture
one to two f stops (Fig. 62b).

28

For shuttle space photography, the following corrections should be used. These corrections will produce slightly underexposed transparencies which are desired for duplication.
For white only scenes:

Open 1 stop (f/11 instead of f/16)

Reading off white cargo bay:

Open 1 stop

Reading off white space suits:

Open 1 stop

Reading off blue space suits:

Close stop

Reading off suntanned fleshtones:

Correct

Reading off black fleshtones:

Close 1 stop

Reading off black only scenes

Close 1 stop (f/11 instead of f/8)

FIGURE 62

Exposing for Sun

or Shade?

Exposing for Slides

High Contrast Scenes

Frequently some areas included in a

photograph are in sunlight, some in the
shade. Pointing the meter into the sunny
area (of the cargo bay for instance) gives
a higher reading than from the shaded
area (Fig. 63). Which exposure is correct?
This depends on the type of film in the
camera.

Slides look best when exposed for the

lighted areas even though there may
be little detail in the shade. It prevents
washed out highlights without color and
contrast. With slide film (Ektachrome)
therefore, point the meter at a subject in
the lighted area, (The sunny side of the
cargo bay, (Fig. 63a) the sunlit area inside
the cabin, the sunlit side of the astronauts
face or space suit, the sunlit side of a
satellite). A correction needs to be applied
to the spotmeter reading if the subject is
not 18% grey. For bright white subjects,
open the lens one f stop (lower number)
from spotmeter reading. Exception: If it is
more important for record purposes to see
details in the shade rather than producing
a pictorially good looking slide, you should
expose for the shade. This, for instance,
could be the case when you need to
record the launching of a satellite or the
work of the astronauts in the shade of the
cargo bay. If so, try to compose the image
in such a way that the sunlit areas are not
very large and not in the center where
they are distracting. Bright areas attract
attention!

Slides exposed for the lighted area, as

explained, usually look best. In a high
contrast scene where it is desirable to
see details in the lighted and dark areas,
take a meter reading of both and set the
aperture in between the two.

Exposing for
Negative Film
Negatives need shadow details. Lens
settings, therefore, must be based on the
amount of light falling in the shaded area:
the shaded side of the cabin, astronauts
face or suit, or the shaded side of the
cargo bay (Fig. 63b). Point the meter at
the shade. Open the lens one f stop if the
shaded subject is white.

FIGURE 63

Bracketing Exposure
Following these suggestions, exposure
should be extremely accurate - no need
for bracketing which means taking the,
same image at different lens settings. In
doubtful cases, or when the contrast between light and dark is very high, bracketing is recommended when time permits.
Take the picture at the meter setting,
then take additional pictures at one f stop
higher and one f stop lower.

29

Exposure techniques

30

The spotmeter reading can vary within several

f stops depending whether it is pointed at dark
or light colored subjects. It is correct when
pointed at subjects that reflect about 18% of
the light such as the brown building, the blue
sky, and the gray board in the foreground
which all show f/11.

It is impossible to have "perfect" exposure for

the shaded cargo bay and sunlit earth at the
same time. Since the cargo bay with the Orbital
Maneuvering System burn is the more important part, the above image is properly exposed
to make the best looking transparency.

Slides look best when exposed for the lighted

areas. The spot meter should therefore be
pointed at a lighted area (P [positive film]).
Negative films need shadow details. The spot
meter is therefore pointed at a shaded area (N).

Composition

31

1) Single subject.
If the scene is dominated by one single
subject (a satellite being launched),
place the subject in the center of the
frame. It is a static image but all attention is then automatically focused on
this subject (Fig. 64).

2) Balance.
An important subject, dominant line,
shape on one side of the image, or
on top or bottom must be balanced by
a second, somewhat less dominant
element on the other side (Fig. 65). Do
not have all the elements that attract
the eye on one side. The image "falls
over." (Fig. 66).
3) Color balance.
Colors must also be considered for
balance. Try to balance a subject of a
specific color on one side by a second
subject of the same or similar color on
the other side.

FIGURE 64

FIGURE 65

The effectiveness of an image is greatly

determined by the arrangement of lines,
shapes, and colors within the square area.
This is known as composition. Evaluate
the arrangement of these elements on the
screen and try to frame the scene so it
looks like a pleasing, balanced image that
keeps the viewers eye within the frame.

FIGURE 66

Composition continued

32

4) Rule of thirds.
In scenes including more than one
important element, place the most
important line, shape and color approximately from the left, right, top
or bottom (Fig. 67).
5) Placement of horizon.
The horizon, the outline of the earth is
frequently a dominant line. Avoid placing it through the center splitting the
image into two equal halves (Fig. 68).
Place the line 1/3 from top or bottom
(Fig. 69).

6) Diagonals.
Horizontals are static, diagonals are
dynamic. Framing the outline of the
earth, features on the earth, or parts of
the space shuttle as diagonals makes
a more striking image (Figs. 70, 71 ).
7) The leading line.
A slanted line starting at the bottom of
the frame can be used to lead the eye
towards the main subject (Fig. 72).

FIGURE 67

FIGURE 68

8) Attention creating elements.

In any image the eye is attracted by:
a) The brightest area, regardless how
small.
b) The one of a kind thing - a color
or shape that is different from all
the rest, a line going in a different
direction than the rest (Fig. 73).
c) A dark line or shape next to white.
d) A line broken by the frame of the
image (Fig. 74).
Use these elements to attract attention.
Avoid them if they are unimportant.

FIGURE 69

33

FIGURE 70

FIGURE 71

FIGURE 72

FIGURE 73

FIGURE 74

Obtaining the Most Effective Images

The effectiveness of the image depends

on sharpness, correct exposure, good
composition and lighting.
Frontlighting: The sun illuminating the
subject from the front, is the least effective. Everything is evenly lit, flat without
shadows and highlights.
Sidelight: From a photographic point of
view, sidelight produces more effective
images. Some areas are in the shade,
some in the light. The result is a three
dimensional effect which enhances details
and textures. The increased contrast also
makes the images appear sharper.
Areas on earth are lit by sidelight only in
early morning or late in the afternoon. It
produces, photographically, the most effective and sharpest looking images. This
is true especially of areas that are of equal
color, e.g. flatland, deserts. Lens settings
must be adjusted for low angle sunlight.
See exposure. Clouds photographed in
sidelight take on a fluffy shape, and are
not just patches of white.

Backlight: The sun shining towards the

camera, can be even more effective - but
mainly for effect, not documentation. Sun
light reflecting on water surfaces can be
very striking. The contrast is usually too
high to see details in the shaded and lighted areas. You must expose for one or the
other depending on the film. See exposure
page 29. Unless details are necessary in
the shaded area, expose slide film for the
sunlit background, such as sky or earth.
Camera Angle: Best quality with most
details in earth shots is usually obtained
by photographing straight down, not at
an oblique angle. Oblique angle shots
are more likely to look flat and hazy, but
this can be pictorially effective because
they show a large area of the earth with
the curved outline of the horizon in the
background.

34

Sun Protection: Direct sunlight should

never shine directly on the lens. It produces flare - a loss of contrast. Hold the
camera so the lens is shaded from direct
sunlight. If not possible, place your hand
over the lens to form a sunshade, naturally making certain the hand does not show
up in the picture. Check the image on the
groundglass screen.
The sun shining on a shuttle window also
produces a hazy picture. Try to shoot
through a window that is shaded from
direct light. Always try to shoot as straight
as possible through the window, not at an
angle. The top cabin window is usually the
cleanest and therefore produces the best
results.

Obtaining the Most Effective Images

35

The sharpness and contrast of the image

is decreased immensely when recorded
through dirty, greasy glass. Clean the windows in the shuttle before you photograph
through them. Clean the lens surfaces
with the lens cleaning kit. Don't just clean
the front element, but the rear element as
well, especially when changing lenses.
Clean front and rear surfaces before you
attach the new lens.

Properly exposed to render the clouds as white as they should be, this
photograph silhouettes the shuttle and space walker for a dramatic
visual effect. The reflections of the clouds on the lower left help the
composition by "balancing" the white from the top. Good use of a
leading line - the right side of the cargo bay leads the eye to the space
walking astronaut.
The beautiful quality of a strong sidelight is illustrated in this shot of a
Satellite Business System deployment. It brings out the patterns, the
details in the cargo bay and the SBS. Since the SBS is the one and
only important subject, it is properly composed in the center of the
frame.

Obtaining the Most Effective Images continued

36

Sunlight reflected on water surfaces can produce a most striking image.

The effectiveness, sharpness and three dimensional feeling that a low sun angle creates is
beautifully illustrated in this view of the Kamchatka peninsula in the U.S.S.R. The diagonal
shore line adds to the effectiveness from a
compositional point of view.

A low sun angle helps especially when photographing deserts or other land areas where the
entire landscape is of the same or similar color.

Space Photography

37

The blue area attracts immediate attention because it is the only

blue in the picture. It is properly composed in the center.
A striking example of the beautiful and dramatic light quality created
by a low sun angle.

The future possibilities in space are beautifully documented in

this Hasselblad photograph of an untethered space walker.
The diagonal earth line creates a more dynamic image.
1984 Victor Hasselblad Inc./NASA
Published and Printed in USA.