Knitting cereletere)|$24.95 Can. $38.95 All the ABC’s of knitting are covered in this complete course that will not only show you the basics, but also techniques that will take your projects to the next level. It’s the easiest and best way to learn knitting at home. Your confidence builds as you compare the types of yarn available and begin to use them to cast stitches onto your needles, forming a foundation row. Try knitting and purling—the fundamental stitches—as well as variations that will give you different decora- tive effects. Move on to other stitches and techniques, including single and double increases, which are used to shape side seams, armholes, sleeves, and neck openings. Then bind it off to finish a project. Once you know how to create neck openings, sleeves, and cuffs, you'll turn to these fundamentals time and again for different looks. Knit a square neck, for example, if you want a classic design. Edgings are important because they create decorative finishes and help keep your projects in shape. Blocking can be done with water, or in some cases with steam, to’ (continued on back flap)(continued from front flap) prepare various pattern pieces, and straighten curled up edges and any irregularity among the stitches. Sewing is the final step that will ensure attractive fin- ished results. If you make a mistake, don’t worry, you'll learn how to correct some of the most common errors and even repair damage to an existing garment. Focus on the details that will give your work indi- viduality and style whether it’s pockets or pleats. Special features like beading and fringes add flair to an otherwise plain design. Multicolored designs, cables, and bobbles are another way to provide interest and texture, while embroidery will bring the simplest of projects to life. Bonus: Directions for making five types of projects, including mittens, baby booties, and an Aran Isle sweater, yf Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. New York Printed in ChinaSterling Publishing Co., Inc. New Yorkcontents Before Getting Started .......... S Wristbands) 09 sae me ees aP Beading! asses gece & THE VAIN ccna wave wi a wre 4 SB Wheistharcs:? «oi. ce cece ace ats ae 49; Beeclings 2 ace sie cco gsieocenetaeinsie 3 GANG secesarsreege a ae f SORT wesn es at cee teens SY JaCauard SUE) scxneecan vs xs Knitting and Purling ...........- SY (GOA cc cnt neediness 53 Smocking on Knits ........... Slip Stitch and Passing Slip HSS ce cece eam 24 semation 55 Knitting Cables ..........0.55 en Over Sa | Pee oe WEG << csepance we IES NIE sce six mwa tote a a 66 FUSE, cansiomarcie on on oo oe el as ai Eon Ate Pdgines:? osc ss santee ae 61 Fringes and Pompons GCoerterarttal FIRING fay vue 2+ Sexe e Selvages and Picking Up Baby BeotieS seisisis-via 2s sa ue si Ribbing Started with STIGHES as Gi niradimmimnawne 63 Mitt. 1 Tubular Stitch 12... 6... eee AP on: en ERS SS 1 TAESE SEY (PEE. Ne ; Circular Knitting . =... .006. 5.05 65 Mittens 2 TUBOE RIEINS oe 6 a eee a Correcting Mistakes ........... 67 GI Closing the Tubular Stitch ...... aa estes NES ameaiNaiees ie Ay SSRN FIRISHIIG. acs on acscemenwinnce em uc 69 Neary (sles te Single and Double Increases . . . .23 ‘ Pelee Peet i SONNE, ans wn eenaitine nants a He a Aran Isle Sweater 2 Symmetrical Increases ......... 25 Buttonholes and Loops ........ 73 . Single and Double Decreases .. .27 ORS) igetisty SF HE te Be Ne Hesiinle Poskets 1 s caisiiceuss ah ae te Me 75 Quilted Knit Symmetrical Decreases 1...... . 29 LEGS SISOS is Say iat bat ROR tiee FROCROES 2 [Link]’ exe en aw whe ft Knitted: Patahwerk Symmetrical Decreases 2... ..... ST ipasbeBand ages soc ne ena ot 79 Binding Off 33 ; EFABIOI SREY vo: ays cong wxscwgoernuene 4 RSS Tae ee Mending, Reinforcing, Patching . .81 ; ErriiSrolgery 2 csc ais sawiiaiais ates NONGCK. te oy cwromeracwian oad 35 ? Horizontal Darts! sg ec ese see ave oe: was 83 Embroidery 3 PROTOS: sea nsrtemnnensert oe ae et e VeMical) DatSy cin. asc: ad mete Se 85 Erabreidarcd SGUARGINGOK: no cnemner nein aime F 39 ROIRICS int eve semsuaeauaete oe 3 "THORS cuisscew ey aa ee oe ee a 87 Motifs ta Embroider 1 Round N@GK oescccs as ex we oe ¢ 41 OHStO EIVETaIue! GiDetS Head oH eS Kee we ea aa 89 Motifs to Embroider 2 Neck Openings, Shoulders, i BEABIBEIEE TH cc ow an vu mewed 43 Elaborate Cable Stitch ......... 91 LHGESE ses cov gon aewtucwrevarow aca ana 5 Neck Openings, Shoulders, Finishing with a Crochet Hook .. .93 and Sleeves 2 ............- 45 Shoulder Pads ............... 95 Translated by Kelly Ramke and Maria Elena Sandovici. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data [Scuola di maglia. English} Knitting school / {English translation by Sterling Publishing Company]. [Link]. Originally published in 1990 in Italy by Fabbri editori. Includes index. ISBN 1-4027-0519-0 |. Knitting. 1. Sterling Publishing Company. [1. Fabbri edi- tori. TT820.$43513 2003 746.43'2-de21 2003005724 10) 9 8 °F G'S ob SF 2 Published by Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. 387 Park Avenue South, New York, NY 10016 Originally published in Italy by Fabbri Editorial Group under the title Scuola di Maglia © 1990 by Fabbri Editorial Group, Bompiani, Sonzogno, Etas Spa, Milano English translation © 2003 by Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. Distributed in Canada by Sterling Publishing “o Canadian Manda Group, One Atlantic Avenue, Suite 105 Toronto, Ontario, Canada M6K 3E7 Distributed in Great Britain by Chrysalis Books 64 Brewery Road, London N7 9NT, England Distributed in Australia by Capricorn Link (Australia) Pty. Lid. P.O. Box 704, Windsor, NSW 2756, Australia Manufactured tn China All rights reserved Sterling ISBN 1-4027-0519-0before getting started Knitting is easy, relaxing, and fun. You do not need many tools to start. as what to use The Needles are the basic instruments in knitting. They can be made from metal, plastic, or wood. They come with a single point (for executing all the flat surfaces), or with a double point (usually in a set of four or five called a double-pointed needle set for knitting articles, such as socks, in a circular manner), or circular (made from two needle points joined by a flexible strand for knitting an article without having to seam pieces together). All needles are available in different sizes, from very small to very large ones. The thicker the yarn, the larger the needles generally need to be. It is also very useful to have a cable needle (a small needle that is usually slightly bent in the middle) handy to use when setting aside part of your work, such as, when you knit cable pattern stitches. Scissors Making a gauge sample, and using the same needles, yarn, and pattern as for the planned project, is an important first step of any knitting job. Usually the swatch should be about a 5-inch (12-cm) square. Lay the finished swatch flat without stretching it, measure 3 inches (8 cm) in width, then in length, and count how many stitches across and how many rows in length it corresponds to. If this count does not match that given in the instructions, you need to try again using larger or smaller needles until you get the required number of rows and stitches. Knitting to the specified gauge is essential for your project to match the pattern's size. If you alter the directions, the gauge gives the number of stitches or rows to change per inch you wish to add or subtract. Row counter The stitch holder is like a large safety pin that is used to hold those stitches not being worked on out of the way without their becoming undone. The row counter is inserted on the needle and increased row by row as you knit, allowing you to keep track of how many rows you have done. The needle gauge is useful for determining the size of the needles that do not haye a number imprinted on them (for example, double-pointed needles). The yarn needle with blunt tip is useful for finishing touches, such as sewing seams, weaving in yarn ends, and embroidered designs. Other useful accessories include markers, a crochet hook, a tape measure, scissors, and pins,s designing your own sweater After you have completed several knitted garments following the patterns, you may be ready to try making one of your own design, or to adapt the pattern in some special way. This book presents a variety of neck openings, sleeve treatments, tailoring finishes, and final decorations to help you create a garment that is unique and well constructed, Some basic how-to information is presented throughout the book. There are also many new or different techniques that you may want to practice and incorporate into your design. If there are references to special eee ee ee et methods (e.g., a special way to bind off) that you are unfamiliar with, check the table of contents and index to find out where they are presented in the book so you can practice them, To plan your own garment, you need to know the size and shape of the pieces you will be knitting and the gauge for yarn and needles you plan to use, Start with a simple shape (see diagrams above) and determine the measure- ments needed to fit, Measuring one of your own garments can help. Make a cardboard pattern for each piece you want to knit and use it as. a guide when beg: beginning de: double crochet dec: decrease stitch Dictionary of Abbreviations and Terms rnd: round (circular row) rds: rounds sc: single crochet ah Example of adapting the pat- x tern: the base (in solid black ‘ line), the mirror image (in dot- you work so you can knit to proper shape, increasing or decreasing as needed. Make a gauge sample for the yarn you plan to use and determine how many stitches per inch/em. Measure your pattern at the lower edge and multiply gauge (e.g., 5 stitches per inch) and number of inches across (¢.g., 12 inches); the resulting number, 60 in this case, is how many stitches to cast on. Measure the pattern at several places to figure the number of increases needed and where they have to be worked. Be sure to recheck your math carefully place marker in work: use a safety pin or tie on strand of col- ored yarn to mark a dp: double pointed si: slip stitch or row k: knit sl st: slip turn work: turn piece k2tog: knit 2 stitches st: stitch Stor ern rel her ni st Re lei i sts: stitches is now toward you tog: together work even: work with- Ip: loop yo: yarn over out decreasing or Pp: purl place marker on increasing p2tog: purl 2 stitches needle: put a ring or *,.. *: repeat material together as one loop of colored yarn between asterisks psso: pass slip stitch over on needle to separate stitchesoe cm the yarn Yarn and craft stores offer an extraordir variety of yarns with very different characteristics. In order to make the right choice, consider the style of the sweater you wish to knit and the purpose it will serve so that you can find the most suitable yarn. Yarn is made by spinning together strands of natural fibers (animal and plant) or chemical fibers (synthetic) ora blend of both natural and synthetic fibers. Wool was once the most commonly encountered yarn in knitting. Some of the best known wools are merinos, Shetland, and lambswool; some of the most prized wools are cashmere, mohair, angora, vicuna, alpaca, and camel hair. Another natural animal fiber is silk, made by the cocoons of silkworms in the form of silk floss which is then treated. Among natural plant fibers, there are cotton, linen, hemp, and jute, even though the latter is rarely used. Chemical fibers are obtained through transforming a natural substance, cellulose, (orlon, dralon, leacryl) and synthetic fibers, obtained from petroleum derivatives (acrylics, polyamid, polyesters). Many present-day combinations of natural and chemical fibers can render yarn more el versatile, and e easy to care for. Depending on the spinning method used, yarn can be softer, more or less twisted, curled, and of different thickness and weight. Also, yarn can differ in strength and consistency, depending on the number of threads or plies that are spun into one. A ply is a name that is given to each particular yarn (for instance, knitting worsted is a 4-ply yarn and other yarns may be 2 or 3-ply yarns). This number indicates the strength of the yarn but never its thickness because the plies can be of various diameters. Finally, among the most appreciated qualities of yarn is its elasticity. Ifa yarn regains its original measurements after being stretched, this can be a guarantee that once you knit itinto a sweater it will maintain its shape. ‘There are many types of yarn on the market, which vary according to their content, structure, quality, and use. The following page indicates the characteristics and uses of the best known types of yarn. The needles appropriate for knitting each type are usually indicated on the label of each ball of yarn. ry ic ic, imaginative, and n more economical andthe yarn SHETLAND Description: wool of the Shetland sheep Weight: light Usage: sports garments SPORT Description: pure or mixed wool Weight: light Usage: sweaters, scarves, stockings, gloves, hats MOHAIR KNITTING WORSTED Description: hair of Angora Description: pure or mixed goats, usually mixed with fibers, 4 ply other fibers Weight: medium Weight: extremely Usage: sweaters, heavy” Usage: warm but li garments, shawls CABLE ALPACA Description: pure or mixed wool Description: wool of the alpaca, Weight: medium soft and vaporous Usage: sweaters, suits, jackets Weight: light Usage: sweaters and expensive shawls CHENILLE Description: yarn made of cotton or synthetic fabrics with short and interlaced BABY Description: wool or synthetic Weight: extremely light Usage: garments for newborns Weight: from light to heavy Usage: sweaters, jackets, trimmings, shawls, hats LAME BOUCLE Description: multicolored yarn, with curled yarns Weight: from light to heavy Usage: sweaters, garments, jackets i jg Rennie Ree Description: multicolored yarn, made out of metal yarn mixed with other fibers Weight: extremely light COTTON Description: less elastic than wool Weight: from light to heavy Usage: sweaters, collars, elegant garments, sports clothescasting on There are many ways to cast on stitches to form the foundation With the tip of the right-hand row. Here are several 2 a needle, draw the yarn as shown from the underside of the ring that you of the more common have formed. ways to cast stitches onto the knitting needles. Three methods are presented: sta rting ] Wrap the yarn from under 5 : your left thumb as shown, with one needle, with then up and around your left ; index finger, forming a ring. two pieces of yarn, or with two needles. s casting on with one needle Leaving a long end about three times the desired length of the starting edge, hold the yarn in your left hand and a needle in your right hand. ie With your right hand, wrap the yarn (stemming from the ball of yarn) under the needle tip, then up and over the needle to the right as shown. 5 Remove index finger and pull on to tighten knot below first stitch. Repeat to form stitches for starting edge. 4 With the left index finger, slip the ring over the tip of the needle.casting on Casting On with Two Pieces of Yarn Use this type of casting on when you need a very firm edge, even if it is not elastic. Follow the same steps as when casting on with one needle but use a doubled strand of yarn. = casting on with two needles ‘This method is useful for adding new stitches to a work already in progress. Form first stitch as shown on previous page, then pass the needle to left hand and hold second needle in right hand. ] Insert tip of right-hand needle into front loop of the stitch just made, as shown, and wrap yarn (from ball) around right needle tip from the back, up and over the needle to right. 3 Slip second stitch onto left-hand needle, in front of the first. 2 Withdraw right-hand needle a little to pull Continue step | until you have added all the second stitch forward. stitches needed to the left-hand needle. iknitting and purling After having athe knit stitch (k) cast on the Hold the needle with the stitches in your left hand, supporting it with the little finger and stitches, the first guiding it with the ring and middle fingers. Keep . thumb lightly pressing on needle, guiding stitches to thing you need tip with index finger. to do is learn how to knit and purl. These are the basic stitches in knitting. 2 Wrap the yarn from the ball around the little finger of 3 Pick up right-hand needle. As you knit, guiding with right hand, as shown, pass it over ring finger, under thumb, insert the needle tip into stitches on left-hand middle finger and over index finger. needle while index finger directs the movement of yarn. Keeping the yarn you are working with behind 5 With right index finger, wrap yarn from back to needle, insert right-hand needle (from front to back) front, then up and over right-hand needle, then back in front loop of first stitch on left-hand needle. down behind same needle. Withdraw right-hand needle a little to pull new stitch forward, letting this new stitch slip onto right-hand needle and dropping old stitch off left-hand needle. Continue working each stitch across, passing new stitches to right needle and sliding old stitches off left needle. If you turn work around at the end of each row and keep knitting rows, you will form a basic pattern called garter stitch, which looks like a series of horizontal ridges.knitting and purling athe purl stitch (p) 1] Turn work so that the back of knitted stitches is toward you. Hold needle with stitches in left hand. Insert right- hand needle into front loop of first stitch of left needle, from right to left. Yarn is at front of work. Wrap yarn around tip of right-hand needle, looping it back over tip and bringing it forward again under tip. Withdraw right-hand needle tip to pull new stitch onto right needle and slip old stitch slip off left-hand needle. Continue working in this way on stitches on left needle. If you turn work at the end of each row and alternate knit and purl rows, you will form another basic pattern called stockinette stitch, which looks smooth on knit side and bumpy on purl side, The Twisted Purl Oe <2 RERSUSRER Work as for regular knit stitch, but insert right needle through Work as if doing a normal purl but wrap yarn under needle, back loop of the stitch. The twisted stitches are less elastic then up over the needle. It is useful to know a twisted purl and, therefore, your garment will not easily lose its shape. stitch, although it is used less often than twisted knit.slio stitch and passing slip stitch over Pass Slip Stitch Over (psso) This variation of knit and purl slipped stitches is used to decrease number of stitches. The method may differ from slip stitches above in how stitch is slipped onto right needle. When you knit, your yarn stays in back of the work; when you purl, There are several it stays in front. ways to vary the basic knit and purl stitches for Pass slip stitch over single stitch. Slip a stitch without knitting it from left to right needle (slip as if to purl, as shown, for a twisted stitch, or as if to knit for a flat stitch). Knit next stitch, and with left needle, decorative purposes. These variations include slip stitch, draw slipped stitch over stitch just knitted and drop it (1 stitch is decreased). passing slipped stitch over, yarn over, long stitch, and crossed stitch. Pass slip stitch over double stitch. Pass a slip stitch as if to knit from left to right needle. Insert right needle through 2 stitches on left needle and knit them as if 1 stitch. Then, with left needle, draw slipped stitch over double stitch and drop it (2 stitches decreased). = slip stitch (sI st) eee) AS sei LORWYN SIAM NAW AWAY AWRY Pe | ad | Nee ng saks> SakeReN a) — y s0niatnaaPonn® Ear SSeS Won ss SARWAN POLS SLA ENT Y Ven\ © ed er he et Ax Sn 1 Slip stitch on knit rows. Yarn stays in back of Slip stitch on purl rows. Yarn stays in front work. Insert right needle as if to purl (right to of work, Slip stitch onto right needle without left) through stitch on left needle and slip it onto purling it. right needle without working it. (It will then be in the correct position when you work it on the next row.)yarn over = yarn over (yo) This stitch is used in lace patterns or to increase number of stitches by adding a loop that is worked as a stitch on next row. The loop makes a hole or eyelet in work. A — Ree AUP VAY VIRRORORNA \ HALE SRW HER a SSS Yarn over in knit. Bring yarn from back to D Yarn over in purl. Start with yarn in front, front of work under needle, then wrap it over wrap it up over left needle and bring it back the right needle; with yarn now in back, continue to front under needle tip; continue to purl across to knit across row. On next row, work loop as a row. On next row, work loop as a stitch. stitch (purl on purl row, knit on knit row). Yarn over between knit and purl. After knitting stitch, Yarn over between purl and knit. After purling stitch, bring yarn to front of work, then wrap it over right leave yarn in front and knit next stitch, (Yarn will needle and bring it forward again to purl next stitch. automatically wrap over needle to back and form yarn over.) 12long stitch and crossed stitch slong stitch AB WIA ass Wy Wy ER Bi WA a SUNTAN Long stitch worked in the row below. Insert right needle through center of stitch just below next stitch on left needle. Wrap yarn around tip of right needle to knit and draw new stitch through on right needle, sliding unworked stitch and one below it (just worked) off left needle. Unworked stitch will undo itself but be caught on long stitch. SSF Patterns may require long stitches to be made with a crochet hook. These stitches may be in a different color or knitted together with other stitches to new color, attach a strand of the yarn, ‘or use the working yarn (as shown), and insert needle into, or between, loop for long stitch. 3 Long stitch formed with yarn over. This is used in loose-knit patterns. Knit, wrapping yarn around right needle 3 times (or more times, as directed) for each stitch. On next row, work stitches (knit or purl, as directed), using only 1 yarn-over loop for each original stitch, sliding off others to form long stitch. slant sideways or diagonally. If using a stitches as directed and draw through Long stitch worked several rows below. This is used for honeycomb pattern. Work 4 rows in stockinette stitch (knit 1 row, purl 1 row) before establishing pattern. Work a long stitch 3 rows (or as directions indicate) below next stitch on left needle. Draw new stitch through, sliding unworked stitch off left needle and undoing stitches below it back to new long stitch. Cp reese g penn, Se kas cog SUAS EAST Lr Srna ord AGS) AUER KI A Peck eet Se ap Seen “3long stitch and crossed stitch s crossed stitch yy ‘ Q/ Sos / PSS WA HF ENS) fat CAH TAWA AT WALA LALA AW ESA E Ana yaen WA A Aa) YRURV ALY i Stitch crossed to right on knit rows. Work to spot for Stitch crossed to left on knit rows. Skip first stitch on crossover, skip first stitch on left needle and reach pass left needle and reach behind it to knit back loop of next it to knit second stitch on left needle, then knit skipped stitch, then knit into front of skipped stitch; slide both stitches stitch, sliding both worked stitches off left needle. off left needle. Stitch crossed to right on purl row. Skip first stitch, purl next stitch, then purl skipped stitch and slide both off left needle. Stitch Crossed to left on purl row. Skip first stitch and, reaching behind it, draw out loop of second stitch and purl it, then purl skipped stitch and slide both stitches off left needle.continental knitting show to cast on In some European countries, people the stitches knit with their hands and yarn held ina different position from the one more commonly used in the United States. Some people may find it more comfortable to use this technique because you can keep the work close to your body, maintaining a more erect position. Try it to see which method works best for you. Either method should give good results, if followed correctly. Form the first stitch with a running knot placed on needle so that ball of yarn is on right-hand side of needle. 2 Wrap yarn from ball around middle finger of left hand, Rotate thumb and yarn upward so free yarn end then over index finger. Pass yarn from yarn end around forms a ring around your thumb. Hold end securely thumb as shown, holding thumb and index finger about with other fingers. 2 inches (5 cm) apart. 4 Insert tip of needle into ring. Then rotate thumb down to pass tip Catch yarn again with thumb under the yarn from ball (wrapping and work as before to make it around needle) and draw up stitch. desired number of stitches. Withdraw thumb and stretch fingers, pulling yarn gently to tighten knot. 15continental knitting athe knit stitch Wrap yarn twice around left index 2 Lower right index finger to bring 3 Draw right needle tip forward, bringing finger as shown, holding yarn at yarn forward over right needle as new stitch through old. Slide old stitch back of work. Insert right-hand needle shown. off needle. Repeat for each stitch, into front loop of first stitch, athe purl stitch 1 With yarn wrapped on left index 2 Insert right needle back to front Wrap yarn over needle as shown and finger, hold yarn at front of work. through front loop of stitch using retract right needle, pulling new stitch finger to hold yarn out of the way. toward back of work. TIP Avid knitters often end up with leftover yarns—not enough for a sweater but too much to waste. One idea for using up cotton yarns is to make potholders or place mats in one color or several. In order to make them more colorful and cheerful, you can trim the edges with a border of cotton bias tape.ribbing started with tubular stitch 1 This stitch, also called double knit- = casting on yarn of a different color ting, is worked on two needles and produces a double- sided work, making it reversible. It has two layers that can separate or form the start of ribbed 1 With a contrasting color yarn, cast on half the number of stitches that you need, plus 1. Continue with yarn chosen for _ your work, as follows: edges. 2. Ist row: Knit first stitch, *make a yarn over (see page 12, to bring yarn to front of work and wrap it over right needle to back, making a new stitch). Knit next stitch. Repeat from * across row. You should now have desired number of stitches. Turn work to work next row. 4 2nd row: Work as follows: With yarn in front of work, slip first stitch as if to purl onto left needle without knitting it. Slip all stitches knitted on Ist row this way, alternating this step with the following one. 17with tubular stitch 1 ribbing started 5 With yarn behind work again, knit each yarn-over stitch added on Ist row. Starting Edge for K2, P2 Ribbing Cast on with contrasting color yarn and work first three rows as for tubular stitch 1. Then establish k2, p2 rib- bing by working across all the stitches as follows: Skip first stitch, * knit (k) next k stitch and leave it on needle, skip 1 and k next stitch, leaving them on needle, bring yarn forward and purl first skipped stitch, dropping it and first k stitch from left needle, now purl 2nd skipped stitch and drop it and 2nd k stitch from left needle (k2, p2 worked), skip next stitch; repeat from * across row. 6 3rd and 4th rows: Work across, knitting each stitch slipped on previous row and slipping as if to purl each stitch worked on previous row, 5th row: Now work as usual in k1, pl ribbing; continue in ribbing until piece is desired length. At the end of knitting, remove colored yarn. Knitting the Edges If you are using tubular stitch as the front edge on a cardigan and wish to continue knitting in stockinette stitch, use twice as many stitches. When the tubular stitch is removed from needles, it separates into two layers: the front knit side and the back purl side, as it faces you (see illus- tration). You can get the opposite result (purl front and knit interior) if you work 2nd and 3rd rows as follows: 2nd row: Purl stitches that will face outward; slip 18 alternating stitches (that will face inward) without knitting them, holding yarn in front of work. 3rd row: Purl slipped stitches from previous row and with yarn in front, slip stitches that were worked on the previous row without working them. Once the double-knitted cardigan edge is. completed, decrease the extra stitches by working 2 stitches together as one, and continue working in single layer as usual. Using tubular knitting in this way to start ribbing gives the ribbing an attractive and stable beginning edge. It gives kl, pl and k2, p2 ribbing the desired elasticity as well as the stability. Tubular knitting is also useful when you want to start a stockinette stitch piece without forming an edge. The tubular stitch will prevent the edge from rolling up. There are two ways to cast on the stitches for the tubular stitch: with a contrasting color yarn, as shown, or with the same yarn you will knit. Both work well, The first time you try tubular stitch, you may find it difficult, especially the first few rows. Practice until you are familiar with the technique. Do not get discouraged, for once you learn it, this stitch is very easy, and it is a technique worth knowing.tubular stitch 2 scasting on with the same yarn used for knitting Hold needle in your right hand. With the same yarn you want to use for knitting, form a loop on needle. Hold in left hand the yarn that comes from ball (yarn A);’ hold the other yarn end (B) with right hand. SS B 2 With left hand, wrap yarn A around needle forward and 3 With right hand, bring yarn B under needle from behind over needle, bringing it down behind needle, to front so that it wraps around yarn A, forming second stitch (front stitch). With left hand, wrap yarn A again around needle 5 With right hand, bring yarn B in front of new loop and around under needle to back, forming third stitch (back stitch), Repeat steps 2 through 5 to make desired number of stitches. Make an even number of stitches; one will be dropped in step 9. NOTE: Left hand always moves working yarn A to form new stitch, while right hand completes stitch by moving yarn end B alternately forward or backward. { (asin step 2). Igtubular stitch 2 GuAener Stitches cast on in this way appear as alternating front stitches and back stitches. 7 Holding needle in left hand, begin by slipping back stitch as if to purl, without working it, and knit next front stitch, 8 Continue by slipping next back stitch as if to purl, knit next stitch, 9 Continue working in this manner, alternating stitches, across row to last stitch, but do not work this last stitch (started as a single loop); drop it off from left needle. ai Vee ea as mW ae Gi ae ae oF LESNAR nd quar 10 Continue to work rows in this manner, alternating stitches to knit slipped stitches of previous row and slip worked ones. Once you have finished knitting, close work (see next section). Then gently pull at loop formed by dropped stitch on first row, undoing beginning yarn. 20closing the tubular stitch The double or tubular stitch requires a particular stitch for closing the work, known as the weaving stitch or the kitchner Notice that the front needle holds Thread long yarn end in yarn Mi ef outer knit stitches and the other needle. Insert yarn needle (as if to stitch. You will need needle holds inner purl stitches (as they knit) into first stitch on front needle and face yen), slide stitch off needle. a blunt-tipped yarn needle to do it. aknit closing When the last row of tubular knitting is done, cut yarn, leaving an end long enough for weaving stitches together. Slip stitches off knitting needle; stitches will automatically separate into, a frontand a back section; put a needle into each group of stitches. 3 * Insert yarn needle into first 2 stitches on back needle, entering stitches as if to purl, then let both stitches slide off back needle. 4 Bring yarn needle back to front needle, entering from front to back of first stitch (dropped from needle in step 2), then insert needle in next knit stitch as if to purl and slide both stitches from front needle. t 7D ) AYN ay INIA (} ) Ne Return to back needle, enter from far back (exterior) into stitch that was just dropped from needle in step 4 and into next stitch from interior out back, letting it drop off needle. Repeat from * across, weaving all stitches together. yi ae 2)closing the tubular stitch spurl closing Insert threaded yarn needle as if to knit into first stitch on front needle and slide it off needle. Bring yarn needle back to front needle, entering from interior into front stitch dropped in step 1, then enter next stitch on front needle from front to interior, sliding it off front needle, Continue repeating from *, weaving all stitches together. 2 * Return to back needle, entering first stitch on interior of work as if to knit and slide it off back needle. Insert yarn needle into next stitch from back to interior and let it slide off back needle. Closing with a Single Needle Closing tubular knit can also be done leaving your work on only 1 needle. The method is similar and may be easier to follow for some knitters. First, cut off yarn, leaving long end for working; yarn end emerges from second stitch (back stitch). Thread yarn end into yarn needle. 1 Insert yarn needle from exterior (knit side of stitch) through first stitch, then second stitch from interior (purl side of stitch), and slide both stitches off knit- ting needle. Insert yam needle from exterior into first front stitch just dropped and from interior on next stitch on knitting needle, and slide both stitches off knitting needle. Continue in this manner, entering stitch just dropped from exterior and next stitch on needle from intefior, and dropping both stitches, until all stitches are worked off. at Fes a EM a a LY ERA ay arsingle and double increases To increase means to add one or more stitches to your work. The increases can be divided between internal, within the current edges of the piece, and external, which are made at the sinternal increases Single increase. Ue te Y Y BARN ri} \ et ae at i SR Ny S= - z Knit same stitch twice, first through front loop as aval then with stitch still on left edges of the work, either needle; reach behind work to knit into back loop of same stitch (working 2 stitches in 1); at the beginning or at the end of a row. ; ie Aes). Y A oh ree aN YR a AWA iM \e aoe A A HA aN) YR [\ +) Inictrate toward the right. With tp ¥ right needle, ate knit stitch on needle You can also increase pal stitches working into stitch and one below it. SSS Knit. To make this yarn over, bring yarn forward over needle and wrap it around to back, making a loop on needle; on next row, work loop as stitch. slide old stitch from left needle. You can also increase purl stitches by purling into front and back of same stitch. po iN MA Ay Re Val ' ze) = <= oti = \ uN Cea A Increase toward the left. Knit stitch on needle as usual without sliding it off needle, then, with tip of left needle, lift stitch beneath one just worked and knit it. You can also increase purl stitches this way, Z2 Sr Purl. Wrap yarn up over needle and return it to front under needle, forming loop; on next row, work loop as stitch. See page 12 for more ways to make a yarn over,single and double increases External Increases Vay Wa OY) is \ 4 VARTA YAY) Increase of more than 2 stitches at beginning of row Insert right needle into first stitch on left needle and Make knit stitch in this added stitch and slide it back make knit stitch; keep old stitch in place and slide onto left needle as before. Continue to add stitches added stitch back onto left needle next to it. to left needle in this way until you have desired number. SUV ee aed KA ALANAN YAY AY yRY RNA Increase of more than 2 stitches at end N row At end of row, wrap yarn around right thumb and index finger to form a ring; insert right needle to transfer ring to needle. Repeat until you have increased desired number of stitches. ES ee sins aa aa FART TAR Peo ree ED, Invisible increase on knit rows. Use tip of left needle to 5 Invisible increase on purl rows. Use tip of left needle to pick up strand of yarn that connects stitch on right pick up strand of yarn connecting stitch on right needle to needle to next one on left needle. next one on left needle, putting it on left needle. Knit this stitch in twisted fashion, inserting needle into Purl this stitch in twisted fashion, inserting needle into back back loop to knit it, loop to purl it. 24symmetrical increases These increases are generally used to add a certain number of stitches on the inside of the work. These have various decorative effects and are normally made every other row on the front of your work. = double invisible increase With tip of right needle, lift conneeting stand of yarn just before center stitch and place resulting loop onto left needle; knit this new stitch in twisted manner (through back loop). Knit center stitch; repeat with connecting yarn just after center stitch. srepeated double increase re center one and then make left increase in nsert left needle into stitch to pull up knit the loop as stitch. Knit center stitch, then make right increase as follows: Insert right needle into next stitch to pull up strand under this stitch and knit it. Knit stitch on needle. sdouble open-work increase Knit to center stitch, make a yarn over (see page 12). Knit center stitch, make another yarn over, On next row, work yarn-over loops as stitches. by, TS NRO WN, YY RS AN SIZ \ eg i ss ot S >. ZS. 7 r< A $ o< SS Ed tA {A DB sae sk ae SS A ow 5 LIT Ns Vs EF? Lud, 25symmetrical increases ) 2 \ ZB \ VY \ Te s inserted increase with holes y Knit to center stitch, then with right needle pull up connecting strand between stitch just worked and center; place this loop onto left needle and knit it as stitch. Knit center stitch, then pull up next connecting strand as before and knit it. ‘SS Ly Pr BN ARAN Wy AY SY Ra wee SARS DR) WS SS RE WA y Leg ie q py A Sy \ he SS Zeek e SS SSS 2o2 SSS Wik o SY iY AN K< 2 hk i NN Simple single Single beaded Increase by knitting into front, then back of same stitch Knit a stitch, leaving it on left needle, and then bring yarn (see page 23). Symmetry is obtained by working the increase _ forward to purl back loop of same stitch; return yarn to back on the 3rd stitch from the beginning of the row and on 4th to continue knitting. Symmetry is obtained by working stitch from end of row. (NOTE: The first and last stitches on increase on 3rd stitch from beginning of row and on 3rd stitch the row are shown as slip stitches in these illustrations and from end. elsewhere in the book.) Single inserted Single open-work With left needle, pull up connecting strand between last Increase by making a yarn over (see page 12). stitch on right needle and next one on left needle, and knit it. Symmetry is obtained by working increase after third stitch Symmetry is obtained by working increase after 3rd stitch __at beginning of the row and just before third stitch from end of at beginning of row and just before 3d stitch from end of row. row. 26single and double decreases Decreases, used for shaping the sweater, can be internal (within a row) or external (at the edges). They can be used to shape side seams, armholes, sleeves, and neck opening. sinternal decreases Decrease 2 knit stitches together (k2tog) These can be done at any point during the work. Insert right needle into first 2 stitches on left needle and Knit stitches However, decreasing within a row does not alter together as one. This decrease will slant right. the selvage edge; it may require adjustments to If you knit 2 stitches together through back loops, they will be twisted, keep continuity of a fancy pattern stitch, making a decorative decrease that slants left. Decrease 2 purl stitches together (p2tog) Knit stitch with slip stitch seed over (psso) Insert right needle into first 2 stitches on the needle and Slip stitch as if to knit, without knitting it, to right needle, purl stitches together as one. On following knit row, decrease and knit next stitch on left needle. (Or slip stitch as if to purl, as will slant right. shown, for a twisted stitch decrease, if you prefer.) With tip of left needle, lift slipped stitch, pass it over knitted stitch, and let it drop from needle. Decrease will slant left. Knit 2 Together with Slip Stitch Passed Over To decrease 2 stitches at any point in work, slip a stitch as if to knit, without knitting it, to right needle; then knit next 2 stitches together as one (k2tog). Lift slipped stitch over k2tog and let it drop from needle.single and double decreases Purl stitch with unworked stitch passed Double slip stitch passed over yarn over For decrease, purl stitch as usual, then slide new stitch Slip 2 stitches onto right needle without knitting them, back onto left needle. then make yarn over, With tip of right needle, lift second (unworked) stitch on Lift 2 slipped stitches up and over yarn over. left needle up and over first (worked) stitch and let it drop off needle. Slide first stitch back to right needle. Binding Off (External Decreases of Multiple Stitches) UH WAY WAN) 4 M A ) On Knit Row On Purl Row Knit first 2 stitches. With tip of left needle, lift first stitch Work as for knit row, but purl stitches. worked over second and drop it (first decrease made), knit next stitch, and repeat process until all desired decreases are a sf ( AY f made. If you are binding off all stitches, work to end of row; cut off yarn and draw yarn end through last stitch to tighten. With Unfinished Stitches To avoid unattractive jogs when stitches are bound off in successive steps, work across row to where stitches are to be bound off. *Turn work without binding off. Keeping the unworked stitches on needle, slip first stitch on left needle ~. (shown as twisted stitch on diagram), work to end of row. > Turn and work back to where next set of stitches was to be bound off; repeat from * until all stitches to be bound off are excluded. Bind off all the stitches left on left needle. Or you can knit across them all and place them on a holder to weave them to the adjoining edge (as for a shoulder).symmetrical decreases 1 These decrease stitches are widely used for shaping raglan sleeves or corners or ona border when you make decreases on both sides of a central stitch. decreases Slanting left on knit rows On each decrease row, always work same number of stitches at edge (before or after 2-stitch decrease is made) to give uniform and symmetric edge. Work decrease on 2 stitches as follows: slip | stitch, knit 1 stitch, pass slip stitch over knit | and drop it. Slanting left on purl rows Slanting right on knit rows Keeping uniform edges, decrease by purling 2 stitches Keeping uniform edges, decrease by knitting 2 stitches together as one. together as one. 4 Slanting right on purl rows The illustration shows symmetrical decreases, slanting Keeping uniform edges, decrease on 2 stitches as follows: left at the beginning edge and right at ending edge. They purl first stitch and return it to lefi needles with tip of right can be worked on either the right or wrong side of work. They needle, lift next stitch (unworked) on left needle and pass it should be in opposite directions on same row and all rows on over worked stitch and drop it from right needle. Slip worked one project should be consistent to look symmetrical. stitch back to right needle. 29