Cosmetics 2015, 2, 48-65; doi:10.

3390/cosmetics2020048
OPEN ACCESS

cosmetics
ISSN 2079-9284
[Link]/journal/cosmetics
Review

Main Benefits and Applicability of Plant Extracts in Skin

Care Products
Ana Sofia Ribeiro 1,, Marilene Estanqueiro 1,,*, M. Beatriz Oliveira 2 and
Jos Manuel Sousa Lobo 1,
1

Laboratory of Pharmaceutical Technology, Department of Drug Sciences, Faculty of Pharmacy,

University of Porto, Rua de Jorge Viterbo Ferreira, 228, Porto 4050-313, Portugal;
E-Mails: asofiamachadao@[Link] (A.S.R.); slobo@[Link] (S.L.)
REQUIMTE/LAQV, Chemical Sciences Department, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Porto,
Rua de Jorge Viterbo Ferreira, 228, Porto 4050-313, Portugal; E-Mail: beatoliv@[Link]
These authors contributed equally to this work.

* Author to whom correspondence should be addressed; E-Mail: msrestanqueiro@[Link];

Tel.: +351-220-428-821; Fax: +351-226-093-390.
Academic Editor: Enzo Berardesca
Received: 9 March 2015 / Accepted: 31 March 2015 / Published: 10 April 2015

Abstract: Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin care purposes.
Nowadays, they are becoming more prevalent in formulations, due to consumers concerns
about synthetic ingredients/chemical substances. The main benefits reported for plant
extracts, used in skin care, include antioxidant and antimicrobial activities and tyrosinase
inhibition effect. In this review, some examples of plants from Portuguese flora, whose
extracts have shown good properties for skin care are presented. However, despite the known
properties of plant extracts, few studies reported the development of formulations with them.
More work in this field can be accomplished to meet consumer demand.
Keywords: plant extracts; antioxidant activity; tyrosinase inhibition; antimicrobial
activity; cosmetics

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1. Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics

Skin constitutes the largest living organ that protects the body from the external environment, helping
to regulate temperature and fluid balance, keeping out harmful microbes and chemicals and offering
some protection against sunlight. The outermost layer of the skin is the stratum corneum,
a selectively permeable, heterogeneous layer of the epidermis, which protects against desiccation and
environmental challenge and retains sufficient water to allow it to function. Impairment in skin barrier
function is often demonstrated by an altered integrity of the stratum corneum, with a consequent increase
in transepidermal water loss and decrease in skin hydration [1,2].
Despite having no legal value, the term cosmeceutical is commonly used to define cosmetic products
with active ingredients promoting drug-like benefits. Thus, a cosmeceutical have in their composition
ingredients with medicinal properties that manifest beneficial topical actions and provide protection
against degenerative skin conditions. They improve appearance by delivering nutrients necessary for
healthy skin. They are able to improve skin tone, texture and radiance while reduce wrinkles.
Cosmeceuticals are the fast-growing segment of the natural personal care industry [3,4].
Although natural ingredients have been traditionally used for centuries for skin care purposes, they
are becoming more prevalent in contemporary formulations [5]. The term natural is defined as
something or an ingredient that is produced by the nature or found in nature and is directly extracted
from plants or animal products [6]. Sources of natural ingredients can include herbs, fruits, flowers,
leaves, minerals, water and land [5]. The effect of natural ingredients in skin care products depends on
their in vitro and in vivo efficacy and the type of dermatological base where they are incorporated [5].
The use of plants for medicinal purposes is as old as humanity and, in the coming years, it is likely
we will see the continuation of the emergence on the market of new products containing natural oils and
herbs. Plants were the main source of all cosmetics before the use of synthetic substances with similar
properties [7]. Natural plant molecules remain particularly interesting for new research. However, the use
of extracts requires paying special attention to the extraction methods, plant-to-solvent ratios and the
content of active ingredients [8].
Additionally, the use of plant extracts in skin care products is highlighted by consumer demand,
who are increasingly concerned with buying ecologically friendly products [9]. However, consumers are
often not aware of the fact that natural products are a complex mixture of many chemical compounds
that can be responsible for the development of adverse reactions. To overcome this potential problem,
researchers should chemically characterize their extracts in respect to composition. Additionally,
the in vitro cytotoxic potential of extracts could be performed in several human cell lines, before the use
in humans and irritant potential of cosmetic formulations can be screened. These procedures can be an
asset to ensure the safety of consumers who choose to use natural products and, consequently,
the acceptability of the marketed product.
2. Benefits of Plant Extracts
The use of bioactive extracts or phytochemicals from a variety of botanicals in cosmetics
accomplishes two functions: care of the body and as ingredients to influence the biological functions of
the skin, providing the nutrients for healthy skin [10]. Generally, botanical products are a rich source of

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vitamins, antioxidants, essential oils and oils, hydrocolloids, proteins, terpenoids and other bioactive
compounds [11]. According to their composition, these extracts can provide different properties.
2.1. Antioxidant Activity
The oxidative stress is one of the major mechanisms for skin aging and dermatological conditions [12].
Ultraviolet radiation from sunlight is the most common exogenous factor harmful to the skin.
The continuous exposure to environmental factors leads to alterations in the connective tissue due to the
formation of lipid peroxides and reactive oxygen species (ROS), as well as enzymes action, which results
in several skin disorders [13].
Free radical formation is naturally controlled by various beneficial compounds known as antioxidants.
These are radical scavengers providing protection to the human body by inhibition of various oxidizing
chain reactions. ROS generated exogenously react with various biomolecules present in the skin and
play an important role in skin disorders [14,15]. In this regard, topical application of antioxidants
provides an efficient strategy to enrich the endogenous cutaneous system, leading to a decrease in the
UV-radiation mediated oxidative damage and prevent oxidative stress-mediated diseases [1618].
Phenolic compounds are bioactive substances widely distributed in plants, being important
constituents of the human diet. Plant phenolics comprise a great diversity of compounds, such as
flavonoids (anthocyanins, flavonols, flavones, etc.) and several classes of non-flavonoids (phenolic
acids, lignins, stilbenes) [19]. Natural antioxidants are effective in preventing free radical formation by
scavenging them or promoting their decomposition and suppressing disorders. Some compounds inhibit
the initiation or propagation of oxidative chain reactions, thus preventing or repairing oxidative damage
done by bodys cells promoted by oxygen [20].
Phenolic compounds are plants secondary metabolites, and their concentration may be influenced by
several factors including physiological differences, environmental and geographic conditions, genetic
factors and evolution [21]. Antioxidant activity of phenolic compounds varies according to the molecular
structures in presence [22]. The structureactivity relationship suggests the number of hydroxyl groups
as the most important factor determining the antioxidant activity of the phenolic compounds [23].
The importance of phenolic antioxidants has remarkably increased in the last decade due to their high
capacity to scavenge free radicals [24]. Phenolic rich plants could be used, for example, for prevention
of skin harmful effects of UV radiation [25].
Phenolic compounds can be delivered to the organism in the form of plant extracts as medicines,
dietary supplements and cosmetics. The extract composition in phenolic compounds is strongly
influenced by the extractive method as well as the solvent use [26].
2.2. Tyrosinase Inhibition Effect
Melanin is a human pigment responsible for the colour of eyes, hair and skin. It is produced and
secreted, through a physiological process called melanogenesis, by the melanocytes, which are
distributed in the basal layer of the dermis. There are two types of melanin pigments produced by the
melanocytes: eumelanin, black or brown, and pheomelanin, red or yellow. The colour of human skin and
hair is determined by the type and distribution of melanin pigment. Each individual of the different racial
groups have, in general, the same number of melanocytes; thus, the type of melanin produced depends

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on their functioning, i.e., people with darker skin are genetically programmed to constantly produce
higher levels of melanin [27]. Upon exposure of the skin to sun radiation, melanogenesis is enhanced by
the activation of thyrosinase, a melanogenesis key enzyme [28].
Tyrosinase, a polyphenol oxidase, can catalyze two distinct reactions (Figure 1): the oxidation of
L-tyrosine to L-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) (first reaction) and the oxidation of L-DOPA to
dopaquinone (second reaction). Then, dopaquinone, through a non-enzyme-catalysed process, is
transformed into leukodopachrome (third reaction). This compound is oxidized into dopachrome (fourth
reaction), which is an extremely fast and non-enzyme-catalyzed process. Then, dopachrome is
transformed to melanin through a series of chemical- and enzyme-catalyzed reactions. Thus, the referred
process shows that dopachrome synthesis can be suppressed when any of the steps are inhibited.
However, not all substances that can inhibit the formation of dopachrome are tyrosinase inhibitors, such
as for example, thymol [29,30].

Figure 1. Representation of the melanin synthesis.

Melanin protects the skin against UV light damage by absorbing UV sunlight and removing the
reactive oxygen species. Over-activity of tyrosinase leads to over-production of melanin [31]. Abnormal
accumulation and biosynthesis of melanin pigments are responsible for skin disorders such as melasma,
freckles and senile lentigo [32]. Numerous approaches have been attempted to find chemicals that inhibit
the catalytic activity of tyrosinase, and disrupt the synthesis or release of melanin pigments. Many of
these compounds have a tyrosinase inhibiting activity, leading to the decrease of melanin total
production. Kojic acid, arbutin and different kinds of vegetal or herb extracts are some of the tyrosinase
inhibitors used today [28].
The flavonoids, due to their ROS-scavenging activity and ability to chelate metals at the active site
of metalloenzimes, present a pigment reducing action [33]. A number of flavonoids are frequently used
in skin-lightening preparation such as aloesin, hydroxystilbene derivates and licorice extracts [28].
There are several tyrosinase inhibitors obtained from natural sources reported in literature which are
used for depigmentation or for the disorder of hyperpigmentation of the skin [31].

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2.3. Antimicrobial Activity

Cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries have an increasing interest in replacing synthetic
antimicrobials in topical products. Besides the growing consumer interest for natural agents, microbial
resistance to conventional antimicrobials is increasing [34].
Phenolic compounds are synthesized by plants for defense mechanisms [35]. They can act by
interacting with the microorganisms cell membrane or cell wall, leading to changes in membrane
permeability, and resulting in cell destruction [36,37]. Phenolics can also penetrate into bacterial cells
and promote the coagulation of their content. In another way, phenolic compounds as natural
antimicrobials could improve the shelf life of different products, inhibiting the growth of pathogenic
microorganisms [38]. This is the case of pequi (Caryocar brasiliense Camb), a typical Brazilian fruit tree.
The hydroethanolic extract of their leaves showed antibacterial activity against Escherichia coli,
Enterococcus faecalis, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus aureus [39].
3. Plant Extracts and Skin Care Products
The following sections are dedicated to common species whose antioxidant, tyrosinase inhibition and
antimicrobial activities have been reported as positive for skin care products. The cited examples refer
to extracts of plants that can be found in Portugal. Portuguese flora is rich in numerous plants that occur
naturally and present potential applicability in health care, but are underexploited. The utilization of
extracts from these plants could be an asset sustainable to the environment.
3.1. Castanea Sativa
Chestnut, particularly chestnut fruits and leaves are important sources of phenolic compounds [40,41].
However, Barreira et al. have also reported antioxidant properties in C. sativa flowers [42]. Portugal,
particularly Trs-os-Montes, is one of the most important European producers of chestnut. The best
growing conditions are found at altitudes exceeding 500 m and at low temperatures [41]. Several studies
were conducted on chestnut by-products, namely, leaves and shells revealing to be a good
source of phenolic compounds with marked biological activity, mainly antioxidant properties [43].
Rutin, hesperidin, quercetin, apigenin, morin, galangin, kaempferol and isoquercitin have been identified
in C. sativa leaves [40,44].
Basile et al. have tested and verified the antimicrobial activity of a C. sativa leaves aqueous extract
against Escherichia coli, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Enterobacter aerogenes, Staphylococcus aureus,
Proteus vulgaris, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Enterobacter cloacae [44].
In a study developed by Almeida et al., a surfactant-free topical formulation containing an
ethanolic C. sativa leaf extract was characterized. No changes in pH and 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl
(DPPH)-scavenging activity were observed after a 6 months storage period at 20 C and in vivo
moisturizing effect was demonstrated that, lasted at least 4 h after products application [45]. The safety
and stability of this formulation for topical use was verified. It could be relevant in the prevention and
treatment of oxidative stress-mediated diseases and photo-ageing [45].

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3.2. Prunus Dulcis

Almonds (Prunus dulcis) belong to the Rosaceae family and consist of an outer hull with an
intermediate shell that contains a kernel or edible seed covered by a brown skin. Portugal is an important
producer of almonds, especially in Algarve and Trs-os-Montes [46,47]. Almonds are useful in the
treatment of many disorders, including skin conditions like eczema and pimples [48]. Almond hulls,
skins and shells are rich in phenolic compounds [4952]. When the almonds maturity is reached, the hull
splits open and it is obtained the shelled almonds. Normally, in industrial process, the skin (seed coat) is
removed from the kern and then discarded. Therefore, in the last few years several research works have
been conducted to evaluate the potential use of these by-products derived from almond industrial
processing (skins, shells and hulls), as a source of compounds with antioxidant properties [5056].
Keser and co-workers have determined antioxidant activities and phenolic, flavonoid, phytosterol,
lipid soluble vitamin and fatty acids contents of almond kernel extract. The results obtained indicate that
almond extract is a good natural source of these compounds [57].
Barreira et al., have evaluated the antioxidant properties of almond green husks, demonstrating good
antioxidant properties with very low Median Effective Concentration (EC50) values, particularly for lipid
peroxidation inhibition. Therefore, according to the authors, this by-product proved to have a high
potential for application in new antioxidant formulations [58].
3.3. Juglans Regia L.
Walnut (Juglans regia L.) is a valuable crop that produces a nut that is very popular and largely
consumed. Not only dry fruits (nuts) but also green walnuts, shells, kernels, barks, green walnut husks
(epicarp) and leaves have been used in both cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries [59].
Juglans regia L. originates from the Near East, but nowadays it is widely cultivated in Europe,
North-Africa and North-America [60]. Walnuts green husk is a by-product of walnut production, a rich
source of phytochemicals, but with scarce use. Their valorization will increase the incomes of the walnut
chain production, beyond decreasing a waste produced in large amounts. Different works demonstrated
the antioxidant potential of walnut products, especially fruits, leaves and liqueurs produced by green
fruits [59,61]. Results further support the fact that skins of walnuts, a rich source of phenolics, are
responsible for effective scavenging of free radicals [62]. The extracts and pure phenolic compounds
from Juglans regia L. might also be used as natural antioxidants and alternatives to synthetic
antioxidants such as BHT (2,6-ditert-butyl-4-methylphenol) [23].
Walnut leaf has been widely used in folk medicine for the treatment of skin inflammations,
hyperhidrosis and ulcers and for its antiseptic and astringent properties [63]. An ethanol:water leaf
extract of J. regia presented good effectiveness against pro-oxidant species, and the scavenging effects
have been described for some polyphenols. As suggested by the authors of the study, the walnut leaf can
be used as a source of natural antioxidants, whose extracts can be used in dermatological bases
preventing oxidative damage [64].
Walnut green husks can be used as an easily accessible source of compounds with health protective
potential and antimicrobial activity [65].

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3.4. Olea Europaea

Olea europaea fruits (olive) are an important crop in Mediterranean Basin, which produces about
98% of the total world production [66].
Olive trees, fruits, olive oil and olive mill waste contain hydroxytyrosol (2-(3,4-di-hydroxyphenyl)
ethanol) and tyrosol (2-(4-hydroxyphenyl)ethanol). These phenolic compounds present antimicrobial,
anticarcinogenic, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities [6775]. In addition to its application as
food additive and active pharmaceutical ingredient, hydroxytyrosol has great potential as cosmetic
ingredient [76]. Due to the beneficial properties of these compounds, the use of olive extracts as raw
material in the manufacture of cosmetic products seems to be an interesting innovation approach for
cosmetic industries. As a consequence of olive oil extraction, a wet solid waste is produced. This
by-product from the olive oil extraction is so rich in hydroxytyrosol and tyrosol that it can be used to
produce high content olive extracts [77]. In the subsequent steps to refine and concentrate this product,
different by-products containing significant amounts of hydroxytyrosol and tyrosol are obtained, such
as dry solid wastes and fat-soluble liquid extracts. The cosmetic raw material to be obtained is a
water-soluble liquid extract used as an ingredient. Additionally, the water-soluble olive extracts can be
treated to obtain solid extracts, where hydroxytyrosol and tyrosol have been purified and concentrated.
Therefore, it is necessary to develop analytical procedures to control the industrial processes to obtain
the required olive extracts and to assess the quality of cosmetic products containing them [76].
Olive leaf has gained interest due to the numerous benefits for health, which is mainly attributed to
oleuropein, which can constitute up to 6%9% of dry matter in leaves, and related derivatives. However,
other secoiridoids and flavonoids should contribute to the overall antioxidant activity of the olive leaf
polar extracts [78,79]. Goulas et al. have demonstrated that olive leaves are a robust source of flavonoids
and the total flavonoids contribute to 13%27% of the total radical scavenging activity. The main leaf
constituent identified and found to act as the dominant radical scavenger was luteolin 7-O-glucoside.
These authors have concluded that olive leaf is a stable source of bioactive flavonoids [78].
3.5. Helichrysum Stroechas (L.) Moench
Helichrysum genus (Asteraceae) includes more than 500 species that are widespread around the
world [80]. A great number of biological activities are usually attributed to this genus, such as
anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, antioxidant, antimicrobial, cough relief and treatment of colds and
wounds [81]. Its chemistry is complex, with a wide variety of chemical classes including flavonoids,
chalcones, phloroglucinol derivatives, essential oils, -pyrones and diterpenes [82].
Helichrysum stoechas (L.) Moench (Asteraceae) is a perennial species growing to 0.5 m, in dry, rocky
and sandy habitats of the Natural Park of Montesinho territory, Trs-os-Montes, North-eastern Portugal.
H. stroechas (L.) Moench decoctions have been used with medicinal purpose for cold, bronchitis and
fever [83]. Moreover, the antioxidant potential of extracts of this plant could support the development
of cosmetic/cosmeceutical products [81,8486].
Barroso et al. have characterized phenolic compounds of the hydroalcoholic extract and decoction of
H. stroechas flowering areal parts and have evaluated their antioxidant potential. Eighteen phenolic
compounds were identified and, comparatively to decoction, form the hydroalcoholic extract that

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presented the highest antioxidant activity, which can be correlated with its higher phenolic compounds
content. Additionally, the same authors have developed microspheres containing the lyophilized extract
and these were subsequently incorporated into a moisturizer [86].
3.6. Quercus Robur
Oak (Quercus rubur) is a native tree in Europe, western Asia and northern Africa. Several
polyphenols have already been identified from different parts of these plant [87,88]. Q. robur bark
extracts have shown free radical scavenging activity, and against superoxide anion, hydroxyl radical and
singlet oxygen [89,90]. Almeida et al. prepared extracts from oak leaves and verified the presence of
ellagic acid, rutin and hyperoside, and phenolic compounds along with two unidentified flavonols.
The ethanol:water (4:6) leaf extract presented potent free radical scavenging activity and iron chelating
activity, as well as strong absorption in the Ultraviolet Radiation B (UVB) range. Considering the
well-established role of free radicals and iron on the UV photodamage, the studied extract presented
interesting features for application as topical antioxidant. The authors have also performed a patch test
to study the skin tolerance of the extract verifying a good skin tolerance after a single application under
occlusion [91].
3.7. Glycyrrhiza Glabra
Glycyrrhiza glabra, also known as Licorice or sweet wood, is native in Europe (Portugal, Spain,
France, among others), Middle East (Syria, Turkey, Iran) and Asia (China) [88]. It is a perennial herb
which possesses sweet taste. The main taproot, harvested for medicinal use, is soft, fibrous and has a
bright yellow interior [91].
It was one of the most widely known medicines in ancient history. Licorice is good for skin eruptions,
including dermatitis, eczema, pruritus and cysts. Anti-inflammatory, antiseptic and antibacterial
properties were also described [88].
Some of the chemical constituents of Glycyrrhiza glabra have been identified as antioxidants, such
as polyphenolic flavonoids [87]. Licorice contains glycyrrhizin, glycyrrhetinic acid, flavonoids,
asparagine, iso-flavonoids and chalcones [91].
Glabridin is the main ingredient of the hydrophobic fraction of licorice extract and has been shown
to inhibit tyrosinase activity in B16 murine melanoma cells [92,93].
Morteza-Semnani et al., verified that licorice root extract were more effective than other commercial
antioxidants in protecting hydroquinone from oxidative degradation, for three months [89].
Another interesting study was developed by Hara and co-workers, demonstrating that
Glycyrrhizia glabra root extract effectively inhibit diacetyl formation, without bacterial effects. Diacetyl
is a key contributor to unpleasant odors emanated from the axillae, feet and head regions, produced by
resident skin bacteria. According to the authors, the results obtained in this study provide new insight
that can contribute to the development of effective deodorant agents [94].
Upadhyay et al. have demonstrated that a petroleum extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra promotes hair grow
since treated animals developed longer, denser, anagenic hair and took less time for hair cover the
denuded skin of female rats, compared to control and minoxidil-treated groups [90].

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3.8. Vitis Vinifera

Vitis vinifera is also known as wine grape, European grape and grapevine. Phenols are the third most
abundant constituent in grapes. The total extractable phenolics in grapes are present at about 10% in the
pulp, 60%70% in the seeds and 28%35% in the grape skin [95].
Vitis vinifera grape seed extract is reported to function as anti-caries agent, antidandruff, antifungal,
antimicrobial, antioxidant, flavouring, light stabilizer and sunscreen agent [96]. Data obtained from Food
and Drug Administration in 2012 reported the use of Vitis vinifera grape seed extract in 495 cosmetic
formulations. Also, Vitis vinifera grape fruit extract and leaf extract have been used in 238 and 80
cosmetic formulations, respectively [97].
The grape seed hydroethanolic extract is rich in polyphenols (proanthocyanidins). The antioxidant
and scavenging activities of proanthocyanidins had been reported by many authors. Proanthocyanidins
potentially improve chloasma in a short period of administration. Yamakoshi et al. reported the oral
administration of a proanthocyanidin rich extract from grape seeds for one year reduced effectively the
hyperpigmentation of women with chloasma [98].
3.9. Crataegus Monogyna Jacq
The inflorescences of hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna Jacq.) have long been known in herbal
medicine in Europe, Asia, North Africa and America. The flowers are white or rose and its fruits when
matures are red [99]. Crataegus monogyna Jacq. is one of the species highly recommended in folk
medicine and the berries are consumed by shepherds, hunters and children, because they are
considered healthy and nutritious [100].
Hawthorn was first mentioned as a drug in the Tang-Ben-Cao (659A.D.), the worlds earliest
officially published pharmacopoeia [101]. In Portuguese, Pharmacopoeia 9 described the use of leaves,
flowers and fruits (berries) [102]. Pharmacological and toxicological studies have demonstrated that the
consumption of hawthorn fruits is associated with long-term medicinal benefits to cardiovascular
function with little side effects [103]. During the nineteenth and early twentieth century, preparations
containing the fruit, leaves and hawthorn flowers were available across Europe in single preparations or
in combination with other plant extracts. The preparations can contain various constituents in different
amounts, such as phenolic compounds, according to the harvest time, plant species and extraction
method [104]. Furthermore, some studies also demonstrated hawthorn extract moderates antimicrobial
activity [105].
The main applications described in cosmetic and dermatological field concern creams and lotions
with glycolic extract of the flowers, with toning action on the skin tissue. These products have effect in
aged skin and in combating wrinkles [99].
Many studies indicate that hawthorn fruits are a rich source of antioxidants (flavonoids, such as
chlorogenic acid, epicatechin, hyperoside, isoquercitrin, protocatechuic acid, quercetin, rutin and ursolic
acid) [100,103,106109]. The structure of these hawthorn phenolic compounds is characterized by two
adjacent hydroxyl groups. An antioxidant, in general, should be an excellent donor of electrons or
protons, and the resulting free radical should be relatively stable. The two adjacent hydroxyl groups of
hawthorn fruits are theoretically more vulnerable to loss a proton and the resulting free radical is stable

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due to resonance delocalization. The thorn-apple is also rich in pigments such as anthocyanidins which
also contribute to the antioxidant activity [103].
In our group, a thorn-apple hydroethanolic extract was developed, incorporated in a semisolid
dermatological base and its efficacy on skin application evaluated, demonstrating promising abilities
regarding skin hydration (unpublished work).
3.10. Pinus Pinaster
The bark of trees is a rich source of green chemicals. The accumulation of polyphenols in the bark results
from plant evolution as a response to biotic and abiotic stresses [110]. Pycnogenol is a nutritional
supplement which represents a standardized bark extract from the French maritime pine (Pinus pinaster Ait.)
in compliance with US pharmacopoeial requirements [111]. The extract is standardized to contain
70% 5% procyanidins, oligomers of catechin and epicatechin subunits, taxifolin and a range of
phenolic acids, derivatives of benzoic and cinnamic acids [112]. Therefore, Pycnogenol contains a
variety of bio-active molecules known to exert beneficial effects on skin cells in vitro or in animal
studies. Previous studies on Pycnogenol effects on human skin indicate this supplement improves
human skin conditions including chronic venous insufficiency and skin inflammation [113].
Furthermore, Pycnogenol protects against oxidative stress in several cell systems by doubling the
intracellular synthesis of anti-oxidative enzymes and by acting as a potent scavenger of free radicals [114].
Picnogenol has attracted special attention in the field of Dermatology with regard to its application in
cosmetic formulations. Some studies evidence that Pycnogenol supplementation benefits human skin by
increasing skin hydration and skin elasticity and show that these effects are most likely due to an increased
synthesis of extracellular matrix molecules such as hyaluronic acid and possibly collagen [111,115].
In summary, it can be concluded that wood is also a promising source of natural antioxidants and in
the future may have added value in the cosmetology industry.
4. Conclusions
Nowadays, consumers have an increasing interest in natural products, namely in the case of cosmetic
products. On the other hand, several works refer to the advantages of plant extracts, such as antioxidant
capacity, tyrosinase inhibition and antimicrobial activity, which can be beneficial for attenuation and
prevention of various skin conditions.
The present review refers to some plant species whose extracts have been evaluated, and the potential
advantages demonstrated. However, few works that focused on the development of formulations for skin
application containing these extracts were reported. So, scientific studies aiming at the development,
evaluation and application of such extracts in topical formulations and that simultaneously meet
consumer concerns are a challenge.
Given the inherent economic potential in the exploitation of natural resources in ecosystems, plant
extracts can be used in cosmetic science in order to beautify and maintain the physiological balance of
the human skin. On the other hand, compared to synthetic cosmetic ingredients, herbal products are mild
and biodegradable, exhibiting low toxicity. Furthermore, several by-products result from the plant
processing industry (for example food industry) and represent a great disposal problem for industries.
However, some of these by-products could also be a promising source of compounds with biological

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properties favorable for cutaneous application. Nowadays, huge amounts of by-products are obtained
without economic value but are potentially recoverable. Thus, natural plant extracts either from plants
that occur in nature and wastes from plants processed industrially can be used to obtain new natural
topical antioxidants, lighteners and preservatives, maximizing the utility of products currently
underexploited or discarded.
In summary, many plant extracts, after being duly studied, can be a safe, efficacious and cost effective
alternative to synthetic products.
Author Contributions
The authors have equally contributed for writing and revision of this article.
Conflicts of Interest
The authors declare no conflict of interest.
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