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INVESTIGATING COASTAL PROCESSES by Robert Burn

FOR GCSE COURSEWORK

C OASTAL ENVIRONMENTS
are full of geography and
make a good location for GCSE
Beaufort force Windspeed
(knots)
Sea condition On land

0 0 Sea like a mirror No wind

coursework. This unit explains 1 1–3 Ripples but no Wind cannot be felt
how a number of practical foam crests
2 4–6 Small wavelets; Wind felt on face,
fieldwork techniques can be used crests do not break leaves rustle, vanes
to investigate the way that waves begin to move
arrive on a beach and the effect 3 7–10 Large wavelets; Leaves and small twigs
they have on its shape and the some break white constantly moving
4 11–16 Small waves; Dust, leaves and litter
material that makes it. A number frequently break blow about, small tree
of different coursework titles white branches move
could be investigated on the same 5 17–21 Moderate waves, Small trees begin to
beach using these techniques. It is many break white sway
6 22–27 Large waves begin Larger tree branches
a good idea to work with other to form, probably moving
pupils to share the collection of spray
fieldwork data before working on 7–8 28–40 Very large waves; Whole trees moving,
different investigations which use white foam blown in walking against wind
streaks by the wind difficult
the information. 9–12 41–64 High waves; crests Trees and houses
of waves roll over, damaged
Investigation plan sea looks white;
spray affects visibility
1 Choose a beach location. A
pebble beach will give a wider Figure 1: Beaufort wind scale
range of titles but sandy beaches
are fine. Check for the times of • Smaller pebbles are carried further 5 Collect data from fieldwork
high and low tides – at all times by longshore drift on beach X. (primary data) and search for
make sure it is safe to study on the Alternatively, coursework can be published information to support
beach. addressed as a question, for the project such as maps,
example: textbooks and the internet
2 Decide on a coursework title. • In which direction and how fast is (secondary data – Figure 1, for
Waves often act on beaches to longshore drift occurring on beach example).
move sediment from one location X?
to another by the process of • Is beach X a result of the work of 6 Present your findings using
longshore drift. Your title should constructive or destructive waves? graphs, maps, tables, annotated
focus on linking observations photographs and even statistics.
• How are pebble sizes related to their
about the wave conditions of a position on beach X?
beach to findings about the shape 7 Analyse your findings and draw
of the beach or the position of conclusions which answer the
3 Decide in advance which
pebbles on the beach. hypothesis/question.
fieldwork techniques you need in
order to answer your hypothesis
Possible titles could be in the form 8 Discuss the limitations of your
or question. Also decide who you
of a hypothesis, which is a will work with to collect the data.
project and how you could
statement to be proved or improve it if you were to repeat it.
disproved, for example: 4 Ask a teacher to help you to
• Swash and backwash sort beach carry out a full risk assessment for
Fieldwork techniques
pebbles by dragging smaller pebbles your fieldwork to avoid dangers Establishing the wave conditions
to the bottom of beach X. like incoming tides, slippery rocks, In order to explain any findings
• Longshore drift makes the beach cliffs, large waves, etc. about the beach you will need to
wider at one end of beach X. survey the way in which the sea

Series 18 Autumn issue Unit 356 Investigating Coastal Processes for GCSE Coursework © 2006 Nelson Thornes GeoActive Online
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 Constructive waves Constructive waves 5 Longshore drift
build beaches. Each wave
is low. As the wave breaks If the waves are hitting the beach
Strong swash
it carries material up the
beach in its swash. The
head-on (at right-angles to the
low wave in beach material will then be shore) they will move material up
proportion to length deposited as the backwash
Weak backwash soaks into the sand or and down the beach. However, if
slowly drains away. These
waves are most common in
they hit it at an angle they may
summer. move material along the beach by
Destructive waves
a process called longshore drift.
A tall breaker:
it breaks downwards
Destructive waves
destroy beaches. The waves
You can test for this.
with great force
high wave in are usually very high and
proportion to length very frequent. The backwash (a)Before going to the coast collect
has less time to soak into the
sand. As waves continue to around 20 pebbles of various sizes.
hit the beach there is more Paint the pebbles with a bright
Weak running water to transport
swash the material out to sea. waterproof paint.
Strong These waves are most
backwash common in winter. (b)Place the pebbles in the swash zone
of the beach, clear of any
Figure 2: Wave types obstructions. Mark their starting
point using a ranging pole.
interacts with the beach at a few waves and see which image
(c) Record the time and start counting
location. Here, seven techniques they most appear like. Both types
waves. After 50 waves record the
are described. You could use these may occur on the same beach, so time and find as many of the pebbles
to help your work in answering calculate the wave frequency to as you can. Record the direction of
the coursework hypothesis or check. movement and measure the distance
question.
4 Wave frequency they have travelled. Hopefully you
1 Prevailing wind and waves will be able to find enough pebbles
Count the number of breaking to work out the direction of
Using a map and compass, find waves in 5 minutes and calculate longshore drift. To calculate the
out which direction the beach an average. More than 13 per speed of longshore drift, divide the
faces and the direction of the minute is, overall, destructive average distance the pebbles have
incoming wind and waves. If while less than 13 is constructive. travelled by the time taken.
possible use a hand-held Check this by counting the
anemometer to record the wind seconds between the waves (called This method only tests longshore
strength. Alternatively estimate it the wave period). Constructive drift at one moment in time.
using the Beaufort wind scale waves are usually 9–10 seconds Consider repeating the
(Figure 1). Record the direction apart but destructive waves are experiment again later in the day
and strength of the wind and wave more likely to be 4–5 seconds or even on another occasion if
direction three or four times apart. Repeat these tests several time allows.
during the day to see if this varies. times in the day to see if this
Search the internet for weather varies.
station records near your beach to
give a longer-term picture.
Ranging pole = Breaks of slope. Measure
2 Fetch held vertically distance and angle between
these points.
Using a map or atlas and the wind Clinometer
used to
direction, work out the fetch. This measure
Site 4
is the distance to the nearest land angle Site 3
across the water and is the 1.5 metres
maximum distance over which
waves can form before hitting the 1.5 metres
beach. The length of fetch and Site 2
strength of the wind determine tres
me Site Distance Angle Notes
the size of waves on the beach. 10
Site 1 1–2 10 m 6° Low water
Tape measure
3 Wave types 2–3
3–4
15 m
28 m
6°
7°
Sandy
Shingle
H i g h - w a t er m a rk
Sample 4–5 32 m 23°
Waves can either be constructive points
B C 5–6 48 m 39° Very steep
or destructive, as shown in Figure A
6–7 56 m –25° Back slope
2. Both types are responsible for Optional across
7–8 68 m 22° Pebbles
Sea 9–10 72 m 23° Strand line
changing the shape and structure Repeat transects down the beach
beach transect
to sample pebble
of the beach and it is important size

that you find out which types are

occurring on the beach. Watch a Figure 3: Taking a beach profile

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6 Beach shape Figure 4: Beach shapes
Drawing a cross-section of the Constructive beach shape
Berm
beach is a very useful technique to
look at the impact of waves on the
beach. Beaches adopt different Build-up of
shapes for constructive and Small bars material
destructive waves, and may have
features related to pebble size or The strong swash and weak backwash pushes material up the beach. The main feature
is a large berm near the high-water mark.
show the effect of longshore drift.
Destructive beach shape Steep
Equipment needed: beach

• Two ranging poles

Large bars
• Long tape measure (at least 20
metres)
• A clinometer When backwash is stronger than swash it removes material from the beach and creates
large bars. The beach is steeper at the very back above the high-water mark.

– and at least two people.

Figure 5: Pebble sampling
To produce a beach profile like
To see if pebble size
the one in Figure 3, use the varies along a beach
equipment in the following way. Beach stretch a tape measure
Tape measure along the lower part of
the beach. With your
(a)Lay one end of the tape measure at eyes closed, randomly
the water’s edge and unwind it up Sample points 20 m collect 20 pebbles and
Sea
the beach to make a transect line. measure their longest
axis. Repeat every 20 m.
(b)One person stays at the water’s edge
and places a ranging pole at the start
of the tape measure. The second
person walks up the beach to the Tape measure
Sample points To see if pebble size
first point where the beach slope varies up a beach stretch
a tape measure across
appears to change, and records the Beach the beach and randomly
distance. If there is no obvious sample 20 pebbles every
change of slope then they should 10 m. This can be done
during a beach transect.
stop at 10 m. They then put their Sea
ranging pole on the tape measure.
(c) Person 1 holds the clinometer at the the beach in the direction you length of pebbles at equal
1.5 m height mark on their ranging
think longshore drift is occurring intervals, as described in Figure 5.
pole and looks along it to the second
point at 1.5 m, and reads off the and repeat the process. The beach
angle. should be wider and/or higher in Conclusion
the direction of longshore drift. Careful use of appropriate
(d)Person 2 now stays in place and Up to this point all fieldwork
person 1 takes their ranging pole techniques can lead to a wealth of
could be carried out on any beach. data for a coursework title. This
further up the beach until the next
change of slope, recording the However, if your beach includes data then needs to be presented
distance. Person 2 now uses the pebbles you could investigate a clearly and analysed carefully to
clinometer to read the angle. subject based on the size of draw conclusions in order to
pebbles and where they occur on answer the original question or
(e)Repeat the whole process, leap-
the beach. hypothesis. Do not worry if you
frogging up the beach.
7 Pebble size did not get the answer you
Once you have plotted your expected – just try to explain what
Smaller and lighter pebbles are
results you should be able to label you did expect and why you think
carried more easily by waves than
features on the beach and decide your data differs. Go on to
large heavy pebbles. As a result
what type you think it is, evaluate all the techniques you
smaller pebbles are often carried
according to Figure 4. used and make a list of their
further by longshore drift, or
limitations. You could also offer
sorted up and down the beach by
If you are investigating the suggestions for how the methods
wave action.
movement of material along the could be improved if the
beach by longshore drift you will To investigate either of these coursework was to be repeated.
need to do more than one profile. processes, use a tape measure to
Pace 100 big steps (100 m) down randomly select and record the

Series 18 Autumn issue Unit 356 Investigating Coastal Processes for GCSE Coursework © 2006 Nelson Thornes GeoActive Online
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 Activities Point
1
Location A (west)
Distance (m) Angle (°)
10 14
Location B (middle)
Distance (m) Angle (°)
12.5 20
Location C (east)
Distance (m) Angle (°)
11 25
1 There are a number of words in 2 18 20 22.4 8 20 10
this unit which should be used 3 20 11 30.0 26 30 –6
4 25 5 35.0 –3 35 26
appropriately in coursework and 5 30 21 43.0 13 45 30
examinations. 6 40 –4 – – – –
(a) What is fetch?
(b) Draw a diagram to explain the Pebble categories 5–10 mm 11–50 mm 51–70 mm >70 mm
process of longshore drift. Include Pebble frequency
the labels: Location A 0 3 7 10
Location B 2 4 13 1
• swash Location C 5 12 3 0
• backwash
• direction of longshore drift. Recordings 1 2 3 4 5
Wave direction SW SW SW SW SW
2 Coursework usually involves Wind direction SW SW SW SW SW
collecting and using both primary Wind speed (km/h) 9 8 8 9 9
and secondary data. Readings Waves per minute
(a) What is the difference between
1 7
primary data and secondary data? 2 8
(b) Give two examples of each 3 7
type that you might use in your 4 9
coursework. 5 6
6 8
(c) What limitations might 7 7
secondary data have? 8 10
9 8
Use the data in Figure 6 to answer 10 6
activities 3–6. Figure 6: Data collected by pupils on a south-facing beach

3 (a) Calculate the average wave (b) Test this further with a
frequency. What wave type does Distance across Average pebble
Spearman Rank Correlation beach (m) size (cm)
this indicate? statistical test.
(b) Draw the beach profile for 0 12.0
location A and label key features. Extension activity 1 12.2
Does this profile match up with 2 13.0
Use all the data from the activities 3 14.5
your results from (a)? above to write an analysis, 4 16.0
conclusion and evaluation for the 5 13.0
4 If the beach faces south, in which question: ‘What evidence exists 6 10.3
direction is longshore drift, given 7 9.9
for the process of longshore drift 8 11.0
the wind and wave direction? occurring on this beach?’ 9 8.0
10 10.8
5 Draw and label all three beach 11 9.8
profiles on graph paper. Is there 12 10.0
13 8.3
any evidence for longshore drift
down the beach? Figure 7: Average pebble size for 13
sample points along the beach from
6 Plot bar graphs for the pebble west to east
data and compare them with your
profiles. Do they support your
findings so far? For extra clarity
look at mode pebble size for each
site.

7 The data in Figure 7 was

collected by another pupil who is
investigating longshore drift.
(a) Plot the data on a scattergraph.
Comment on any relationship you
find. In which direction is
longshore drift?

GeoActive Online Series 18 Autumn issue Unit 356 Investigating Coastal Processes for GCSE Coursework © 2006 Nelson Thornes
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