C ot to n I n c o rp o r a te d G u i d e to D e n i m

contact us
We’d like to know your needs, concerns and
comments as well as answer your questions
about material covered in this brochure. Please
direct correspondence to:
cotton incorporated
488 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10022

tel 212.413.8300 fax 212.413.8377

corporate website: [Link]
consumer website: [Link]

“Today’s jeans are the equivalent of the black pant. You

can’t have too many pairs; they go almost everywhere.
Naturally, women are buying more and spending more.”

- Lisa Moore, Senior Buyer, Ambiance, a group of boutiques

in San Francisco.
Fit Finishes Glossary
abrasion Wet processes to make gar-
ments look worn or faded by scraping or
rubbing the surface, causing abrasion.
crock A term used to describe how dye
rubs off of fabric onto skin or other fabric.
Inseam The seam in a trouser or short
that runs from the crotch to the hem. Leg
length is measured based on the inseam.
Rise A tailoring term that refers to the
distance from the crotch seam to the top
of the waistband in pants. Rise will often
AVERAGE BODY TYPE PEAR-SHAPED BODY TYPE Pumice stones are used most frequently. denim A sturdy cotton twill most com- be spoken of when discussing how the
Average to short in height; thighs wider apart than shoulders. monly woven with an indigo blue yarn and jeans A term used interchangeably pant fits.
Average in height and equally proportioned. Acid wash Patented in 1986, this wash uses pumice stones Overdyed A second dying process executed after jeans have been azoic dyes Insolable pigments performed gray or mottled white yarn. to describe a sturdy cotton twill fabric typ-
soaked in bleach to create deep contrast within the sewn, to make the thread color the same as the jean. within the fiber by padding, first with a ically woven with an indigo blue yarn and rivets A metal accessory that is used for
GOAL RISE STYLE GOAL RISE STYLE double needle A method of finishing a
coloring of the jeans. soluble coupling compoud and then with gray or mottled white yarn, and a trouser both reinforcement and nonfunctional
• Elongate leg • Low • Bootcut seam in which a row of stitches appears
• Elongate leg • Low • Bootcut Pre-ripped Jeans that have purposely been ripped or teared — a diazptized base.
on either side of it.
made from this fabric. ornamentation.
• Minimize or flat- • Medium • Flare
• Enhance rear • Medium • Flare
ter fullness of
Antique A denim finish achieved through sanding and and not repaired — prior to sale. bleaching An industrial finishing process left-weave Fabric woven to the left, a rope dyed The best possible method to
• High • Straight Leg hips and rear. washing, which gives an aged look to the garment. that takes off natural and artificial impuri- enzyme wash Proteins used to speed up more intricate process that produces a dye indigo yarns.
• Trouser Antique is also a type of ring denim in which the yarn Raw Denim that has been not been treated or finished. ties from the yarn or fabric. Also, a the chemical processes and used in fin- suppler product than right-hand twill.
is strongly uneven. process for laundries to make jeans fade. ishing of denim. sandblast A laundry process in which
Sand blasted A laundry process in which jeans are shot with guns mercerized Cotton in which a wet jeans are shot with guns of sand in order
broken twill The diagonal weave of the Finish A process performed on a finishing process which swells the yarns to make the jeans look as if they’ve been
Clean Denim that retains its indigo color even after of sand in order to make the jeans look as if they’ve fabric after it is woven that can dramati-
TALL BODY TYPE HOURGLASS BODY TYPE repeated washings. been worn.
twill is intentionally interrupted to form a
cally change its look and fell. Fabric, for
of the fabric to give it a round smooth sur- worn.
Any height; waist is much more narrow than shoulders; thighs random design. face. This process results in a stronger
Above average height, long legs. example, can be boiled, mercerized, dyed, and more lustrous yarn that is more easily sanding A denim finishing process
wider than waist. carding A process in which cotton is printed, calenderized, napped, glazed or in which fabrics are sanded with sandpa-
Creased A finish that produces a white line down the front of Sandwashed A finish achieved through a combination of pumice dyed, producing brighter, deeper colors.
GOAL RISE STYLE the jean, creating the illusion that the jeans have stones, enzymes and sand; used to create the illusion combed to remove extraneous fibers, waterproofed. per to make the surface soft. Can be per-
GOAL RISE STYLE
• Elongate leg • Low • Bootcut trash and neps. Fibers are then oriented overalls A one piece garment style using formed before or after dying.
• Flatter leg length. • Low • Bootcut been repeatedly ironed. of aged denim. five pocket The classic denim jean
• Flatter small • Medium • Flare in a parallel manner and packaged to be denim or canvas. It is apant with a bib top
• Create look of • Medium • Straight Leg processed further. styling featuring two back patch pockets, and suspenders shoulders. spinning The process in which cotton is
waist • High • Trouser Crushed A textured effect achieved through a special fabric Stone washed A type of wash in which jeans are abraded with stones. two from pockets and one front coin twisted together to form threads or yarns
fuller hips and • High • Trouser
rear. • Enhance rear combing A yarn finishing process that fol- pocket. overdye A fabric dying process most often suitable for weaving into cloth.
construction and wet processing. The denim is woven
with an overtwisted weft yam; when the garment is Tear and Repair A finish that uses tools to create holes in jeans, that lows carding, removing additional extrane- used on dark indigo and black denim.
ous fibers for a stronger, smoother yarn. Flap pocket A pocket in which you have staple The measurement of length in a
washed, the yam “shrinks,” acquiring a goffre look that are then sewn closed prior to sale. to lift a covering to access the opening. pigment dyes Dyes without affinity for cotton fiber. The longer the staple, the
High-quality cottons are typically combed.
is further enhanced by bleaching and stonewashing. fiber and therefore held to fabric with higher the quality.
Tinted Greige Goods Pronounced gray. Loom-
“BOY” SHAPED BODY TYPE SHORT BODY TYPE Dirty wash A finish that creates the look of stained jeans.
Jeans that have been dyed a second time, usually core spun yarn Yarn in which the base is
completely surrounded by another yarn. state cloth that has not received dry and
resins. They are available in almost any
color and are use by fabric dyers who warp Threads that run lengthwise in a
Narrow hips; no curves from waist to hips. Below average height. with a yellow khaki hue, to create the look of vintage
wet finishing. want to create a fabric that will fade. fabric.
denim. cotton The soft, fluffy fibers gathered
GOAL RISE STYLE GOAL RISE STYLE
Enzyme washed Proteins used to speed up the chemical processes from the seed of the cotton plant, or the Hand The qualities of a fabric revealed pre-shrunk Jeans which are sanforised, weft Threads that run horixontally in a
and used in finishing of denim. Whiskered A jeans finish that produces white lines that look like cloth made from these fibers. First used through a sense of touch. Terms like soft- or pre-shrunk, guaranteeing less than two fabric.
• Enhance rear • Low • Bootcut • Elongate leg. • Low • Bootcut ness, crispness, dryness and silkiness all
wrinkles near the crotch and sometimes behind the by the people of India 5,000 years ago, percent further shrinkage. yarn dyed A dyeing process in which the
• Highlight slim • Medium • Straight Leg • Flatter or mini- • Medium • Straight Leg describe the hand of the fabric.
legs mize rear
Frayed A finish in which the waistband and hems of jeans knees. cotton is considered to be one of the yarns are dyed and then woven or knitted
• High • Trouser right-weave Fabric woven to the right.
(varies). have been sanded to create a “worn” effect. world’s oldest fabrics. There are several indigo A deep blue-violet dye, commonly to make fabric.
grades of cotton which can be used for More common and easier to manufacture,
used in denim. but often not as soft as left-hand twill.
fabrics ranging from denim to voile.
 C ot to n I n c o rp o r a te d G u i d e to D e n i m
contact us
We’d like to know your needs, concerns and
comments as well as answer your questions
about material covered in this brochure. Please
direct correspondence to:
cotton incorporated
488 Madison Ave., New York, NY 10022

tel 212.413.8300 fax 212.413.8377

corporate website: [Link]
consumer website: [Link]

“Today’s jeans are the equivalent of the black pant. You

can’t have too many pairs; they go almost everywhere.
Naturally, women are buying more and spending more.”

- Lisa Moore, Senior Buyer, Ambiance, a group of boutiques

in San Francisco.
Fit Finishes Glossary
abrasion Wet processes to make gar-
ments look worn or faded by scraping or
rubbing the surface, causing abrasion.
crock A term used to describe how dye
rubs off of fabric onto skin or other fabric.
inseam The seam in a trouser or short
that runs from the crotch to the hem. Leg
length is measured based on the inseam.
rise A tailoring term that refers to the
distance from the crotch seam to the top
of the waistband in pants. Rise will often
AVERAGE BODY TYPE PEAR-SHAPED BODY TYPE Pumice stones are used most frequently. denim A sturdy cotton twill most com- be spoken of when discussing how the
Average to short in height; thighs wider apart than shoulders. monly woven with an indigo blue yarn and jeans A term used interchangeably pant fits.
Average in height and equally proportioned. Acid wash Patented in 1986, this wash uses pumice stones Overdyed A second dying process executed after jeans have been azoic dyes Insoluble pigments performed gray or mottled white yarn. to describe a sturdy cotton twill fabric typ-
soaked in bleach to create deep contrast within the sewn, to make the thread color the same as the jean. within the fiber by padding, first with a ically woven with an indigo blue yarn and rivets A metal accessory that is used for
GOAL RISE STYLE GOAL RISE STYLE double needle A method of finishing a
coloring of the jeans. soluble coupling compound and then with gray or mottled white yarn, and a trouser both reinforcement and nonfunctional
• Elongate leg • Low • Bootcut seam in which a row of stitches appears
• Elongate leg • Low • Bootcut Pre-ripped Jeans that have purposely been ripped or teared — a diazotized base.
on either side of it.
made from this fabric. ornamentation.
• Minimize or flat- • Medium • Flare
• Enhance rear • Medium • Flare
ter fullness of
Antique A denim finish achieved through sanding and and not repaired — prior to sale. bleaching An industrial finishing process left-weave Fabric woven to the left, a rope dyed The best possible method to
• High • Straight Leg hips and rear. washing, which gives an aged look to the garment. that takes off natural and artificial impuri- enzyme wash Proteins used to speed up more intricate process that produces a dye indigo yarns.
• Trouser Antique is also a type of ring denim in which the yarn Raw Denim that has been not been treated or finished. ties from the yarn or fabric. Also, a the chemical processes and used in fin- suppler product than right-hand twill.
is strongly uneven. process for laundries to make jeans fade. ishing of denim. sandblast A laundry process in which
Sandblasted A laundry process in which jeans are shot with guns mercerized Cotton in which a wet jeans are shot with guns of sand in order
broken twill The diagonal weave of the finish A process performed on a finishing process swells the yarns of the to make the jeans look as if they’ve been
Clean Denim that retains its indigo color even after of sand in order to make the jeans look as if they’ve fabric after it is woven that can dramati-
TALL BODY TYPE HOURGLASS BODY TYPE repeated washings. been worn.
twill is intentionally interrupted to form a
cally change its look and feel. Fabric, for
fabric to give it a round smooth surface. worn.
Any height; waist is much more narrow than shoulders; thighs random design. This process results in a stronger and
Above average height, long legs. example, can be boiled, mercerized, dyed, more lustrous yarn that is more easily sanding A denim finishing process
wider than waist. carding A process in which cotton is printed, calenderized, napped, glazed or in which fabrics are sanded with sandpa-
Creased A finish that produces a white line down the front of Sand washed A finish achieved through a combination of pumice dyed, producing brighter, deeper colors.
GOAL RISE STYLE the jean, creating the illusion that the jeans have stones, enzymes and sand; used to create the illusion combed to remove extraneous fibers, waterproofed. per to make the surface soft. Can be per-
GOAL RISE STYLE
• Elongate leg • Low • Bootcut trash and neps. Fibers are then oriented overalls A one piece garment style using formed before or after dying.
• Flatter leg length. • Low • Bootcut been repeatedly ironed. of aged denim. five pocket The classic denim jean
• Flatter small • Medium • Flare in a parallel manner and packaged to be denim or canvas. It is a pant with a bib
• Create look of • Medium • Straight Leg processed further. styling featuring two back patch pockets, top and suspenders shoulders. spinning The process in which cotton is
waist • High • Trouser Crushed A textured effect achieved through a special fabric Stonewashed A type of wash in which jeans are abraded with stones. two from pockets and one front coin twisted together to form threads or yarns
fuller hips and • High • Trouser
rear. • Enhance rear combing A yarn finishing process that fol- pocket. overdye A fabric dying process most often suitable for weaving into cloth.
construction and wet processing. The denim is woven
with an overtwisted weft yarn; when the garment is Tear and Repair A finish that uses tools to create holes in jeans, that lows carding, removing additional extrane- used on dark indigo and black denim.
ous fibers for a stronger, smoother yarn. flap pocket A pocket in which you have staple The measurement of length in a
washed, the yarn “shrinks,” acquiring a goffer look that are then sewn closed prior to sale. to lift a covering to access the opening. pigment dyes Dyes without affinity for cotton fiber. The longer the staple, the
High-quality cottons are typically combed.
is further enhanced by bleaching and stonewashing. fiber and therefore held to fabric with higher the quality.
Tinted greige goods Pronounced gray. Loom-
“BOY” SHAPED BODY TYPE SHORT BODY TYPE Dirty wash A finish that creates the look of stained jeans.
Jeans that have been dyed a second time, usually core-spun yarn Yarn in which the base is
completely surrounded by another yarn. state cloth that has not received dry and
resins. They are available in almost any
color and are use by fabric dyers who warp Threads that run lengthwise in a
Narrow hips; no curves from waist to hips. Below average height. with a yellow khaki hue, to create the look of vintage
wet finishing. want to create a fabric that will fade. fabric.
denim. cotton The soft, fluffy fibers gathered
GOAL RISE STYLE GOAL RISE STYLE
Enzyme washed Proteins used to speed up the chemical processes from the seed of the cotton plant, or the hand The qualities of a fabric revealed pre-shrunk Jeans which are sanforized, weft Threads that run horizontally in a
and used in finishing of denim. Whiskered A jeans finish that produces white lines that look like cloth made from these fibers. First used through a sense of touch. Terms like soft- or pre-shrunk, guaranteeing less than two fabric.
• Enhance rear • Low • Bootcut • Elongate leg. • Low • Bootcut ness, crispness, dryness and silkiness all
wrinkles near the crotch and sometimes behind the by the people of India 5,000 years ago, percent further shrinkage. yarn dyed A dyeing process in which the
• Highlight slim • Medium • Straight Leg • Flatter or mini- • Medium • Straight Leg describe the hand of the fabric.
legs mize rear
Frayed A finish in which the waistband and hems of jeans knees. cotton is considered to be one of the yarns are dyed and then woven or knitted
• High • Trouser right-weave Fabric woven to the right.
(varies). have been sanded to create a “worn” effect. world’s oldest fabrics. There are several indigo A deep blue-violet dye, commonly to make fabric.
grades of cotton which can be used for More common and easier to manufacture,
used in denim. but often not as soft as left-hand twill.
fabrics ranging from denim to voile.
Fit Finishes Glossary
abrasion Wet processes to make gar-
ments look worn or faded by scraping or
rubbing the surface, causing abrasion.
crock A term used to describe how dye
rubs off of fabric onto skin or other fabric.
inseam The seam in a trouser or short
that runs from the crotch to the hem. Leg
length is measured based on the inseam.
rise A tailoring term that refers to the
distance from the crotch seam to the top
of the waistband in pants. Rise will often
AVERAGE BODY TYPE PEAR-SHAPED BODY TYPE Pumice stones are used most frequently. denim A sturdy cotton twill most com- be spoken of when discussing how the
Average to short in height; thighs wider apart than shoulders. monly woven with an indigo blue yarn and jeans A term used interchangeably pant fits.
Average in height and equally proportioned. Acid wash Patented in 1986, this wash uses pumice stones Overdyed A second dying process executed after jeans have been azoic dyes Insoluble pigments performed gray or mottled white yarn. to describe a sturdy cotton twill fabric typ-
soaked in bleach to create deep contrast within the sewn, to make the thread color the same as the jean. within the fiber by padding, first with a ically woven with an indigo blue yarn and rivets A metal accessory that is used for
GOAL RISE STYLE GOAL RISE STYLE double needle A method of finishing a
coloring of the jeans. soluble coupling compound and then with gray or mottled white yarn, and a trouser both reinforcement and nonfunctional
• Elongate leg • Low • Bootcut seam in which a row of stitches appears
• Elongate leg • Low • Bootcut Pre-ripped Jeans that have purposely been ripped or teared — a diazotized base.
on either side of it.
made from this fabric. ornamentation.
• Minimize or flat- • Medium • Flare
• Enhance rear • Medium • Flare
ter fullness of
Antique A denim finish achieved through sanding and and not repaired — prior to sale. bleaching An industrial finishing process left-weave Fabric woven to the left, a rope dyed The best possible method to
• High • Straight Leg hips and rear. washing, which gives an aged look to the garment. that takes off natural and artificial impuri- enzyme wash Proteins used to speed up more intricate process that produces a dye indigo yarns.
• Trouser Antique is also a type of ring denim in which the yarn Raw Denim that has been not been treated or finished. ties from the yarn or fabric. Also, a the chemical processes and used in fin- suppler product than right-hand twill.
is strongly uneven. process for laundries to make jeans fade. ishing of denim. sandblast A laundry process in which
Sandblasted A laundry process in which jeans are shot with guns mercerized Cotton in which a wet jeans are shot with guns of sand in order
broken twill The diagonal weave of the finish A process performed on a finishing process swells the yarns of the to make the jeans look as if they’ve been
Clean Denim that retains its indigo color even after of sand in order to make the jeans look as if they’ve fabric after it is woven that can dramati-
TALL BODY TYPE HOURGLASS BODY TYPE repeated washings. been worn.
twill is intentionally interrupted to form a
cally change its look and feel. Fabric, for
fabric to give it a round smooth surface. worn.
Any height; waist is much more narrow than shoulders; thighs random design. This process results in a stronger and
Above average height, long legs. example, can be boiled, mercerized, dyed, more lustrous yarn that is more easily sanding A denim finishing process
wider than waist. carding A process in which cotton is printed, calenderized, napped, glazed or in which fabrics are sanded with sandpa-
Creased A finish that produces a white line down the front of Sand washed A finish achieved through a combination of pumice dyed, producing brighter, deeper colors.
GOAL RISE STYLE the jean, creating the illusion that the jeans have stones, enzymes and sand; used to create the illusion combed to remove extraneous fibers, waterproofed. per to make the surface soft. Can be per-
GOAL RISE STYLE
• Elongate leg • Low • Bootcut trash and neps. Fibers are then oriented overalls A one piece garment style using formed before or after dying.
• Flatter leg length. • Low • Bootcut been repeatedly ironed. of aged denim. five pocket The classic denim jean
• Flatter small • Medium • Flare in a parallel manner and packaged to be denim or canvas. It is a pant with a bib
• Create look of • Medium • Straight Leg processed further. styling featuring two back patch pockets, top and suspenders shoulders. spinning The process in which cotton is
waist • High • Trouser Crushed A textured effect achieved through a special fabric Stonewashed A type of wash in which jeans are abraded with stones. two from pockets and one front coin twisted together to form threads or yarns
fuller hips and • High • Trouser
rear. • Enhance rear combing A yarn finishing process that fol- pocket. overdye A fabric dying process most often suitable for weaving into cloth.
construction and wet processing. The denim is woven
with an overtwisted weft yam; when the garment is Tear and Repair A finish that uses tools to create holes in jeans, that lows carding, removing additional extrane- used on dark indigo and black denim.
ous fibers for a stronger, smoother yarn. flap pocket A pocket in which you have staple The measurement of length in a
washed, the yam “shrinks,” acquiring a goffer look that are then sewn closed prior to sale. to lift a covering to access the opening. pigment dyes Dyes without affinity for cotton fiber. The longer the staple, the
High-quality cottons are typically combed.
is further enhanced by bleaching and stonewashing. fiber and therefore held to fabric with higher the quality.
Tinted greige goods Pronounced gray. Loom-
“BOY” SHAPED BODY TYPE SHORT BODY TYPE Dirty wash A finish that creates the look of stained jeans.
Jeans that have been dyed a second time, usually core-spun yarn Yarn in which the base is
completely surrounded by another yarn. state cloth that has not received dry and
resins. They are available in almost any
color and are use by fabric dyers who warp Threads that run lengthwise in a
Narrow hips; no curves from waist to hips. Below average height. with a yellow khaki hue, to create the look of vintage
wet finishing. want to create a fabric that will fade. fabric.
denim. cotton The soft, fluffy fibers gathered
GOAL RISE STYLE GOAL RISE STYLE
Enzyme washed Proteins used to speed up the chemical processes from the seed of the cotton plant, or the hand The qualities of a fabric revealed pre-shrunk Jeans which are sanforized, weft Threads that run horizontally in a
and used in finishing of denim. Whiskered A jeans finish that produces white lines that look like cloth made from these fibers. First used through a sense of touch. Terms like soft- or pre-shrunk, guaranteeing less than two fabric.
• Enhance rear • Low • Bootcut • Elongate leg. • Low • Bootcut ness, crispness, dryness and silkiness all
wrinkles near the crotch and sometimes behind the by the people of India 5,000 years ago, percent further shrinkage. yarn dyed A dyeing process in which the
• Highlight slim • Medium • Straight Leg • Flatter or mini- • Medium • Straight Leg describe the hand of the fabric.
legs mize rear
Frayed A finish in which the waistband and hems of jeans knees. cotton is considered to be one of the yarns are dyed and then woven or knitted
• High • Trouser right-weave Fabric woven to the right.
(varies). have been sanded to create a “worn” effect. world’s oldest fabrics. There are several indigo A deep blue-violet dye, commonly to make fabric.
grades of cotton which can be used for More common and easier to manufacture,
used in denim. but often not as soft as left-hand twill.
fabrics ranging from denim to voile.
 C ot to n I n c o rp o r a te d G u i d e to D e n i m
contact us for more information:
cotton incorporated
110 East 9th Street, Suite A-792
Los Angeles, California 90079

tel 213.627.3561 fax 213.627.3270

corporate website: [Link]
consumer website: [Link]

“I wish I had invented blue jeans. They have

expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity — all I
hope for in my clothes.”
- Yves Saint Laurent