MARKETING DOCUMENTATION
Jojoba oil
Jojoba is one of the finest cosmetic ingredients in the world. Its excellent inherent emolliency,
moisturization and oxidative stability properties rank it as one of the top cosmetic lipid materials,
natural or synthetic, in use today. However, simultaneously, jojoba in all likelihood is also the most
misunderstood cosmetic ingredient.
Many misconceptions are linked to jojoba, but none is more misleading than the misconception
promulgated and propagated by its own common name, "Jojoba Oil.’
Jojoba is not triglyceride oil! In fact, it is a complex mixture of naturally occurring longchained linear
esters with many functional cosmetic properties that are far superior to triglycerides. Over 97% of
jojoba is composed of an array of liquid wax esters, with a combination of mixed tocopherols, free
sterols and other unsaponifiable material making up the balance.
In addition to the obvious chemical difference, jojoba differs from triglyceride seed oils in important
functional features. Nearly all triglyceride fats and oils are easily hydrolyzed and oxidized for internal
food metabolism. Jojoba, like other wax esters in nature, resists hydrolysis and oxidation for more
effective, non-occlusive, moisture control and for photoprotection on the external surfaces of skin, hair,
eyes and plant leaves.
HISTORY
Use in Ancient America
For centuries the Amerindians of Northern
Mexico and the Southwestern United States
have held Natural Jojoba Oil in high esteem for
its valuable qualities. Early Spanish explorers
and missionaries recorded that the native
Amerindian inhabitants of the American Sonoran
Desert used it for sundry cosmetic and medicinal
purposes, such as hair dressings, body oils, and
skin salves.
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traditional uses reproduced in this document.
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In addition, they attributed "mystical" powers to Natural Jojoba Oil claiming that it could alleviate a
myriad of bodily ills and cure external ailments such as cuts, scratches, and open sores.
Realizing that most legends have some basis in truth, research chemists in the 1930’s first
investigated the composition and properties of Natural Jojoba Oil. These chemists realized, to their
surprise, that jojoba was not based on triglycerides (glycerol esterified to three long-chain carboxylic
acids) as are essentially all naturally occurring liquid oils and solid fats. In fact, the researchers
realized that the extract from jojoba seeds was the only plant-sourced material composed of liquid,
long-chain esters. They were intrigued with jojoba, but were very limited in their research due to the
limitations of the technology of the day. Soon, Natural Jojoba Oil fell into relative obscurity that lasted
until the late 1960's and early 1970's.
Scientific discovery
In the late '60's and early '70's, two events transpired which brought Natural Jojoba Oil into the
limelight of cosmetic research and development. First, many nations of the world started to become
"environmentally conscious" and realized the finite limitations on many of the world's resources. These
nations, either collectively or independently, identified endangered plant and animal species around
the world. Soon thereafter, they outlawed the hunting and/or harvesting of these species and
prohibited the use of any materials derived from these sources.
Among the endangered species was the sperm whale, whose spermaceti waxes, a mixture of long
chain esters, was greatly valued for its functionality in cosmetic applications. Scientists soon found
that Natural Jojoba Oil could not only replace spermaceti in all applications but discovered that it was
actually superior to it.
Secondly, the cosmetic industry commenced a worldwide search for renewable, plantsourced lipid
materials to eventually replace nonrenewable, petrochemical sourced materials, when and if market,
supply or cost factors dictated. It was obvious to many that Natural Jojoba completely satisfied the
needs created by both of the aforementioned events.
BOTANY
Renewable Plant Sourced Ingredient
Natural Jojoba Oil is sourced from the seeds of Simmondsia chinensis, which is a woody, evergreen,
desert shrub indigenous only to the American Sonoran Desert. Jojoba seeds are a dark, reddish-
brown color and about 1.0 to 1.5 centimeters long.
Approximately 50% of the weight of the seed is a mixture of long-
chain liquid esters that is typically extracted by mechanical pressing.
Unlike most triglyceride seed and nut crude oils, Natural Jojoba Oil is
very low in or virtually devoid of tars, gums, free carboxylic acids,
hydroperoxides, phosphatides, chlorophylls, color bodies and
malodorous low molecular weight carbonyl compounds. Expelled,
crude jojoba is naturally of high quality and purity as it flows from the
mechanical presses.
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traditional uses reproduced in this document.
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CHEMISTRY
Triglyceride Oils vs Jojoba Esters
Triglyceride oils are designed to be easily hydrolyzed and oxidized for their intended internal use as
foods for energy.
Jojoba liquid wax esters are designed to resist hydrolysis and oxidation for their intended use in non-
occlusive moisture control and photo-protection on external surfaces of skin, hair, eyes and plant
leaves.
In understanding the functional differences between Natural Jojoba Oil and triglyceride fats and oils,
one must understand the molecular differences between long chain liquid esters and triacylglycerols.
These differences are very significant even though jojoba, fats, and oils are all considered lipids.
Lipids are important constituents of all plant and animal tissues. The lipid family of compounds
includes members of many different structural groups such as fats, oils, waxes, sphingolipids,
glycerophospholipids, and sterols. Although they do not share a common structure, lipids do share the
property of being soluble in non-polar organic biological molecules such as carbohydrates, proteins,
and nucleic acids. Large alkyl portions found in the structures of all lipids are responsible for their
solubility properties.
Fats and oils are the most abundant lipids found in nature and are major components of storage fat
cells in plants and animals. Fats and oils are very similar in chemical structure.
The distinguishing factor is that fats are solid or semisolid at room temperature and oils are liquid at
the same temperature (22 to 25° C).
Natural Jojoba Oil is NOT A Triglyceride Fat or Oil: Structurally or Functionally
Technically, triglyceride fats and oils are used in plants and animals primarily as a source of energy.
Wax esters are used primarily for moisture control, protection and emolliency.
Wax esters are generally present only on the surface layers of animal skin and plant leaves. Only the
jojoba tree produces commercial quantities of this functional liquid material in its seeds. (Solid
carnauba wax is from the leaves of palm trees.)
Natural waxes are complex mixtures of organic compounds that include carboxylic acids, long chain
alcohols and to a much lesser extent, alkenes. Natural Jojoba Oil is a mixture of long chained,
unbranched liquid wax esters that result from the esterification of an omega-9 (double bond located
between the ninth and tenth carbon), monounsaturated linear fatty acid and an omega-9,
monounsaturated linear fatty alcohol.
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The dominant fatty alcohols and fatty acids of jojoba are of C-20 and C-22 in length. Noted that the
unbranched, long-chain nature of the alcohol and acid moieties give jojoba esters their non-polar
behavior.
Natural Jojoba esters are beautifully simple in molecular configuration, symmetry and stability. These
esters are surprising in their cosmetic multifunctionality, and are very similar to the esters that make
up 25- 30% of human sebum. An even higher level of similar esters from modified sebaceous glands
called Meibomian Glands forms a monolayer of lipids that covers the outer surface of the aqueous tear
film of the eye. When it is deficient, the tears evaporate four times faster.
Stereochemically, jojoba 's double bonds are cis in character. It is believed that this cis configuration in
jojoba’s linear ester molecules actually adds superior emolliency traits to the Natural Jojoba esters.
Physical and chemical properties
Experience garnered by jojoba growers and processors over the past 15 years has shown that many
of jojoba’s properties do not vary from year to year or from lot to lot. There are, however, some
properties that do vary depending on the condition of the seed that is crushed. Armed with the
knowledge that to a significant degree, the quality of the end product depends on the condition of the
seed to be crushed, producers have developed advanced methods of harvesting, seed handling,
processing, and storage that result in optimal seed condition for the highest quality end product.
Acid value is the most frequently determined property of Natural Jojoba. Total acid value of jojoba is
typically in the range of 0.2-0.5 (mg of KOH to neutralize acid in 1 gram of sample) and it can be
reduced to less than 0.2 with refining methods.
The moisture content is typically less than 300 ppm. It typically contains between 50 and 100 ppm of
phosphorous in the form of hydratable and nonhydratable phospholipids. The phospholipids are
considered a positive component in many cosmetic applications, but too high a level may cause
turbidity and cloudiness in the jojoba.
The peroxide value is used as a measure of its relative oxidation state at a single point in time.
Typically, jojoba's peroxide value at time of packaging is less than 0.8 milliequivalents of peroxide per
Kg of sample.
Iodine Value is a measure of unsaturation (number of double bonds). Natural Jojoba is almost
exclusively composed of “diene” making its Iodine Value similar to that of oleic acid. Iodine values are
typically in the range between 78 and 90.
The Saponification Number also is constant and ranges from 85- 100.
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Jojoba’s extraordinary oxidative stability
Jojoba meets the special Stability Challenge of "Naturals” because is extremely stable. It has been
shown to be extraordinarily stable in extreme temperatures. Jojoba can be heated to 370°C over a 96-
hour period without displaying degradation in general composition and carbon chain length. In addition
to thermal stability and of more importance to the cosmetic chemist, jojoba also has unsurpassed
oxidative stability.
Many of today's cosmetic consumers are demanding that cosmetic formulators produce formulations
utilizing natural ingredients once again. These "naturals" for the most part are not oxidatively stable.
Thus, the consumer has created an apparent dilemma for the cosmetic formulator by demanding
oxidative stability and increased usage of naturals, while simultaneously requiring the 21st century
functionality of a high-end "cosmeceutical.” In response to market demand, the cosmetic industry is
searching for renewable, plant-sourced lipid alternatives to mineral oils, petrolatums and paraffin
waxes. Natural Jojoba Oil has definitely been identified as a natural material that meets these criteria
and satisfies consumer demand.
Natural Jojoba liquid esters help also stabilizes oxidatively sensitive natural and synthetic active
ingredients. The two most dominant factors inherent in natural lipid materials that affect their oxidative
stability are molecular configuration and the presence of antioxidants.
Molecular Configuration: Natural Jojoba esters enjoy a relatively simple yet very stable configuration.
The long chain linear esters of jojoba are recognized to be significantly less reactive to oxidation than
their structure (eg., Lewis structure model) would predict. In part, jojoba's superior stability is attributed
to the lack of resonance effect between double bonds along the molecule's chain. This enhances the
resistance of the double bonds to oxidation.
Antioxidants: Natural Jojoba, as well as fats and oils from plants, all contain tocopherols that are
known to act as free radical scavengers. However, the level of oxidative stability demonstrated by
jojoba is higher than would be expected from its 50 ppm tocopherol content. Scientists have,
therefore, postulated the presence of a more powerful antioxidant.
Jojoba exceeds the stability of vegetable oils
Oxidative stability studies comparing Natural Jojoba to commonly used triglyceride fats and oils
demonstrate jojoba's incomparable stability. It improves shelf life and protects from free radicals.
Natural Jojoba and several triglyceride oils and oil blends were tested using the OSI method (Oil
Stability Index) at 110° C and 130° C. Hydrogenation is a common practice used to increase the
stability of many fats and oils, it breaks double bonds of the fatty acid components of triglycerides and
adds hydrogen to the carbon atoms resulting in a single covalent bond. Hydrogenation does change
the chemical and physical properties of the oils, and in many cases makes them aesthetically less
appealing cosmetically due to increased "greasiness" and "heaviness."
The OSI comparative study clearly showed that Natural Jojoba is superior to most oils and fats.
Surprisingly, jojoba even compared favorably to synthetically produced "high stability" oil which was
designed for use in experimental oxidative stability studies. Oxidation and rancidity are primary
adversaries to the cosmetic formulator. They have been and will continue to be a challenge in
formulating. Natural Jojoba's extraordinary oxidative stability helps meet that challenge.
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traditional uses reproduced in this document.
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COSMETIC PROPERTIES
Different grades of Jojoba
Simmondsia chinensis produces a marvellously consistent
mixture of liquid esters. Extraction of Natural Jojoba from seeds
that are in optimal condition results in a very pure and clean
initial product that requires minimal processing and/or refining to
produce a very high quality, consistent end product.
After mechanical extraction, jojoba is generally screened to
remove tiny bits of sediment called "footes" and then filtered. The
jojoba is then placed into an insulated processing tank, where it
is pasteurized to further ensure product safety and quality.
Different grades of jojoba can then be produced:
1) Pure, natural, golden grade (organic certified or not)
2) Refined and bleached grade
With the pure, natural, golden grade, no further processing is needed after filtration and pasteurization,
although for some end-use applications removal of phospholipids is preferable. The jojoba is simply
packaged for storage and shipment. This grade of jojoba has a golden-yellow color. Organoleptically,
this grade has a very slight, pleasant odor peculiar to jojoba.
From the early 1980s refined and bleached jojoba has also been available. The color bodies are
removed with bleaching earths and filtration. Various degrees of decolorization can be attained by this
rnethod with Lovibond readings that are typically between those of pure golden jojoba and
decolorized/deodorized grade. This grade of jojoba retains a slight odor.
Jojoba’s safety is well established
In formulating cosmetic products, the cosmetic chemist needs problem-free ingredients that have been
tested and found to be safe and effective. The Scientific Literature Review and Technical Analysis
prepared for the highly respected Journal of the American College of Toxicology concluded that jojoba
is safe as a cosmetic ingredient in the concentrations reviewed (0.1% to 25%). This extensive review
documents studies on toxicity, skin irritation, comedogenicity, skin sensitization, mutagenicity,
phototoxicity and photoallergenicity.
Natural Jojoba's oxidative stability, thermal stability and lack of support for microbial growth can also
increase a products safety and/or decrease its dependence on antioxidants, preservatives and
stabilizers. Extensive use of jojoba as an ingredient in a wide diversity of products by millions of
consumers over the past 15 years, as well as widespread use of 100% pure jojoba on skin and hair
without adverse effects also verifies its safety.
Skin care
Many of the most effective ingredients for skin care formulations are those with chemical composition
and physical properties similar to the skin's own surface layers. Since jojoba is completely miscible
with sebum, it forms a very thin, non-greasy lipoid layer of jojoba and sebum when it is applied to the
skin. This partially porous layer provides exceptional transepidermal respiration and moisture control.
Unlike greasy occlusive materials such as petrolatum, mineral oils and some lanolin products, jojoba
provides an absolutely nontacky and non-greasy, dry emolliency.
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traditional uses reproduced in this document.
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At the same time jojoba significantly reduces Transepidermal Water Loss without totally blocking
transpiration of gases and water vapor. The kinking at jojoba’s cis configuration that helps avoid tight
packing of hydrocarbon chains enhances this function. Natural Jojoba serves as an excellent
moisturizing agent with exceptional spread and lubricity, and leaves a rich velvety non-oily feel on the
skin while retarding water loss and enhancing the flexibility and suppleness of the skin.
Percutaneous absorption studies at the
University of Michigan demonstrated that
jojoba is quickly absorbed into the skin.
Absorption is apparently via the
transappendegeal mechanism and occurs
through the pores and hair follicles.
Additionally, because jojoba is rapidly
absorbed, the pores and hair follicles can
remain open and thus maintain their proper
functioning ability.
From the pores and hair follicles, jojoba diffuses into the corneal layer of the skin probably via a
pilosebaceous mechanism.
In short, it appears that jojoba effectively moisturizes and softens the skin by a dual action of forming
a lipid layer, which is partially occlusive, and by the diffusion of jojoba into the intercellular
spaces of the stratum corneum to soften this tissue.
The incorporation of jojoba into the oil phase of skin care formulations is a straightforward process.
Natural Jojoba has a required hydrophilic/lipophilic balance number (HLB) of approximately 6. It is
considered compatible with almost all anionic, cationic, amphoteric, and non-ionic cosmetic
ingredients. Not only can multifunctional jojoba be considered as a replacement for mineral oil,
triglycerides, lanolin, squalane and synthetic esters, but it can bring a whole new level of functionality
to products.
Hair care
Jojoba is an extremely functional ingredient in hair and scalp preparations. Many scalp related
problems are caused by a hardened build-up of sebum that clogs the hair follicles and may cause
some types of scaling. If this hardened build-up is not removed, it can eventually obstruct the hair
follicle's ability to function properly, which can lead to a loss of the hair shaft, and ultimately, death of
the follicle. Jojoba rapidly penetrates down to the scalp and hair shaft, and readily loosens and
dissolves this hardened build-up. The scalp and hair follicles are left clean and free to continue their
normal function.
Jojoba is also an excellent soil-solubilizing agent, which can remove sticky build-up on the hair from
many modern hair preparations as well as airborne particulates.
Jojoba will leave the hair clean and supple. Jojoba exhibits a matchless keratoplastic effect that leaves
the hair shimmering and brings out the hair's natural color overtones and brilliance. Jojoba can be
used with confidence in most hair preparations at a level ranging from 0.5-3%.
One of the essential functions of lipids on the hair is moisturizing to improve texture and
manageability. Keeping the hair fully hydrated is a guarantee of manageability, softness and shine.
This is exactly what Natural Jojoba does: it conditions the hair, and prevents it from becoming brittle
and dull when exposed to unfavourable conditions.
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traditional uses reproduced in this document.
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COSMETIC APPLICATIONS
The use of Natural Jojoba has steadily increased in a widely diversified plethora of cosmetic
formulations. The more common and current usages for jojoba in cosmetics are the following ones.
Hair Care
- Shampoos, Hair Conditioners, Hair Oils
- Scalp Treatments
- Wave Set Lotions
- Stick Pomades
- Hair Creams, Hair Tonics, Hair Sprays
Skin Care
- Facial Moisturizers
- Facial Cleansers
- Eye Makeup
- Remover Eye Treatments
- Body Moisturizers
- Hand Creams
- Shaving Lotions and After-shave Creams and Oils
Scrubs and Masks
- Foot Care Products
- Massage Oils
Baby Care
Lotions, Creams & Oils
Sun Care
- After-Sun Creams
- Lotions Sun Protection Products
- Self-tanning Products
- Tan Extending Products
- Lip Balm
Cuticle and Nail Care
- Cuticle Oil, Cuticle Remover
- Nail Hardener
Make-up Products (Colour Products)
- Cream Foundations
- Liquid Foundations
- Lipsticks
- Solid Foundations
- Concealers / Blemish Sticks
- Eyeshadow / Blusher
- Eyeliner
Bath Oils
- Dispersing
- Floating
Soaps
Liquid
Bar
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Information sourced from various bibliographical information and websites. Biocosmethic is not liable for any medical claims or
traditional uses reproduced in this document.
Biocosmethic – 6, rue du grand chêne 78830 Bonnelles – tél. : (+33)1 30 88 49 18
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MARKETING DOCUMENTATION
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Information sourced from various bibliographical information and websites. Biocosmethic is not liable for any medical claims or
traditional uses reproduced in this document.
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