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How To: Install Cosworth MX1 Cams, Springs, & Head Gasket

Hollywood_X of EvoXForums

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Please note that any work you do on your own may void your warranty
so do so at your own risk and only if you know what you're doing!

Level of difficulty from 1-10 (1 being easy): 7

Parts Required:
• Cams (Cosworth MX1ʼs)
• Springs (Cosworth singles)
• 5 quarts 5w-30 synthetic (Not blended)
• 1 Gallon coolant pure or 2 gallon 50/50 mix
• High temp silicone sealant
• Aerosol brake cleaner
• Assembly / cam lube for dry start
• Head studs (Stocks one torque only) Note; possible issues
• SOS pads for cleaning up head and sealing surfaces
• Bunch of clean rags

Tools Required:
• 10, 12, 14, 16, 22mm sockets
• 10, 12, 14, 16, 17mm end wrenches
• Various small screwdrivers
• Extension magnet (Yeah youʼre going to drop stuff)
• (Special 12pt short 13mm for ARP head studs)
• Torque wrench (3/8”) Need ft/lb and in/lb or conversion table.
• T-55 Torx head Socket LONG (Head bolts)
• Valve spring puller
• Impact gun (Air) or Hammer wrench for 22mm crank bolt (This
thing is on pretty tough)
Recommended Number of People:
• 1 (2 on start up)

Time to complete
• 6 hours
Step 1:

Remove various items…

Remove injector / coil / sensor wiring harnesses.

Remove air intake. (Stuff rag in turbo inlet, better safe than sorry)

Remove UICP from intercooler to turbo. (Rag here also)

Remove passenger side front tire for timing cover access through panel. 4ea pop it plastic clips.

Drain coolant (Wing nut)

Remove coolant overflow bottle (Two hoses and slide off)

Remove fuel supply line

Pull all hoses off the water thermostat housing

Remove fuel rail

Remove 2ea 12mm brackets off the underside of intake manifold.

Remove 5ea 12mm bolts from top of intake manifold.

Remove oil dip stick 1ea 10mm cap screw

Pull intake manifold off (Note bracket and bolt placement for reconnect)

Remove 1ea 10mm and 12mm bolt from heat sink

Remove passenger side motor mount (Just frame of car side for now)

Remove 1ea 12mm bolt from power steering pressure line bracket.

Loosen water pump pulley bolts 10mm 3 ea (Easier to do now while tension is still on it, donʼt
remove yet)
16mm ratchet lift tensioner and remove belt (This is a reverse thread bolt)

Remove engine mount bracket 3ea 14mm bolts & 1ea 12mm

Remove water pump pulley 3ea 10mm

Remove idler pulley 1ea 16mm

Remove tensioner 2ea 12mm bolts

Remove 18ea 10mm bolts from valve cover & pull valve cover
Step 2:

At this point we are going to do something that will make your life easier later. We are going to align the
crank TDC and the cam timing marks up so when you install your roughly in the right area. Per the
diagram below use a 22mm socket and wrench and turn your crank damper pulley clockwise until you
line the cam timing marks with the head. (Dashes not dots)

Remove damper pulley 1ea 22mm - Here you will need either a ½” air impact gun or an actual impact
hammer wrench.
Remove oil cooler bracket 1ea 10mm bolt

Remove lower AC bracket 4ea 12mm

Remove timing chain cover 6ea 12mm, 7ea 10mm and additional 2ea 10mm bolts holding oil feed
control bracket. There is also 4ea 10mm bolts coming up from the oil pan to the timing chain cover.
Stuff rag to cover oil pan (So you donʼt have to fish items out later)

Remove 2ea 10mm bolts from timing chain guide

Remove hydro timing tensioner 2ea 10mm bolts; this part gets a little tricky if you donʼt know exactly
what to do. In the picture you will see a hole to the right on the one the screw driver is in. This is where
you start. Notice the “Dogs” or teeth inside the hole. What you want to do is get a small screw driver in-
between the teeth and lift the top set up while pressing in on the hydraulic cylinder. This will open up
the hole in the back so you can slide in a screw driver of Allen key to hold it closed.

Remove 1ea 10mm bolt to pull lower timing chain guide; also remove opposing guide across 3ea 10mm
bolts.
Step 3:

For this part clear yourself a nice flat surface off that will allow you to lay out your parts in order so you
donʼt get the organization mixed up. It is very important that you keep all items separated by placement.
Loosen the cam bearing caps in stages per Mitsu spec (See below); also remove tappets and
remember these are select fit so keep in order.
First remove the front bearing cap using the sequence shown above left; this can be done in one step.
Next remove the remainder of the cam bearings in the sequence shown above right; these must be
done following the stated pattern and in 4 to 5 steps. DO NOT attempt to remove these in one step you
will jump the mounting bolts out with the spring force and damage the threads. Again these items are
select fit and must be returned to their exact location so keep them in order during removal to ensure a
proper install.
Now remove the head bolts T-55 torx head. Start in center working your way out. (These are torque
once bolts so if you are pulling them I highly suggest having replacements on hand)
Lift head off exhaust manifold still attached, once on good surface pull sensors so you donʼt accidentally
break them. (Optional)

Remove exhaust manifold from head 10ea 14mm nuts with dual washers.

Now take a brake and clean up your timing chain cover, sealing surface of engine, and head. Also
clean up front lip of oil pan. (Use brake cleaner and some scratch pads.) Donʼt forget to clean the
bottom part of the timing chain cover that attaches to the oil pan.
Pay attention while cleaning that you donʼt get debris in all your ports, use air or dab out with a rag
when finished.
Step 4:

Now itʼs time to swap springs, use heavy grease for holding retainers to screw driver. (See below pics
for steps)
Step 5:

Reinstall sensors / MIVEC solenoids; 4ea 10mm (If you did pull them)

Install head gasket (Sealant on sections of head gasket, see diagram below) then set head, and slide in
head studs “torque to manufacture spec”. All are different so be sure to have the spec for the bolts or
studs you are using.
Reinstall tappets (select fit DO NOT mix up)

Use assembly cam lube on tappets and save some for putting on the cam lobes.
Install both lower chain guides; 8 ft-lbs torque

Remove MIVEC cam sprocket heads and install on new cams; 1ea 14mm (repeat for both cams)
The cams have dowels on them that ensure proper line up and the MX1ʼs have INT & EXT marked on
their shaft.
Install cams with timing marks aligned roughly to the flat section on the head. In the pic below you will
see a small dash etched into the surface of the MIVEC cam sprocket when youʼre ready to put the
chain back on these should be aligned perfectly with the edge of the head.

Reinstall cam thrust cam bearings; Torque to 107 in-lbs (NOT ft/lbs!); follow sequence below Note; the
107 in/lbs is final torque, follow the sequence 2-3 times stepping up in equal increments before
reaching final torque.
Install cam front bearing and torque 13 ft/lbs initial torque for first pass then 23 ft/lbs for final torque on
the second pass.

Once you have reached final torque you can use the feeler gauge to check lash (If incorrect
move tappets as needed)

If everything checks out ok cover the lobes with lube and we will be finished here pretty quick.
Step 6:

Now itʼs time to overlay the chain and match up the paint marks with timing marks. While doing this
ensure the other timing marks are still aligned parallel with the flat section on the head. Also ensure the
crankshaft sprocket timing mark is aligned to the 9 oʼclock position. (See diagram& pics below for
visual)
Now double check all of your timing marks are lined up with the chain links as well as the block and
head marks.

Now you can install your chain tensioner and pull the pin.
Install upper timing chain guide

Apply lube to O-ring on timing cover

Apply high temp silicone sealant and install cover torque evenly.
Install crank pulley using 1ea 22mm cap screw (Re tighten after belt is installed)

Using the wrench on the crank pulley you just installed rotate the engine one full rotation of the chain
clockwise and feel for any obstructions (like valve hitting pistons). Keep in mind it will be tight while
doing this and you can use a flashlight to look down through the intake ports to see obstructions. Note;
timing marks will line up on block but timing chain marks wonʼt line up after first rotation do not let this
alarm you)

Install valve cover gasket and apply sealant to where valve & timing chain cover meet. (On the line)

Torque the valve cover following the pattern. 18ea 10mm (27 in/lbs first pass)( 49 in/lbs second pass)
Install lower AC bracket;

Install MIVEC solenoid and heat shield on exhaust side of engine.

Install engine stud mount to block

Install idler (1ea 16mm bolt) & water pump pulleys (3ea 10mm bolts) Tighten water pump pulley after
belt install.

Install tensioner pulley 1ea 16mm (Reverse thread bolt!)

Install belt (Sounds easy enough)

Install remaining parts of engine mount

Install 4ea 14mm bolts on exhaust manifold attaching turbo

Install rear heat shield 3ea 10mm bolts

Install coolant and heat sink bracket

Install intake manifold; connect the lower manifold brackets 2ea 12mm

Install access panel behind passenger front wheel; Install wheel

Install fuel rail; do not drop poly spacers (Hard to find when you do)

Install all water lines, fuel lines, and wiring harnesses.

Zip tie necessary lines; fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose & boost solenoid lines.

Install intake, and UICP (Plug in MAF)

Add oil, and coolant

Double check all connections and fittings, and then do it again.

Flash appropriate map, and start car

Hold @ 2000rpm for 10 minutes (Do not shut down)

Have someone watch the engine bay checking for leaks as well as out of place items.

After your ten minutes is up double check car once again ensuing its road worthy then set out for a 50
mile drive varying speed yet keeping it under 4000rpm. These steps are very important DO NOT
attempt to do otherwise.

Letʼs do a quick mental check here and match up any of those extra parts you got sitting in front of you.
Pin the part on the 4B11T!
Results:

These cams really woke my car up and give me safer power at a much lower boost level. The stock
cams are a huge restriction causing those with larger turbos capable of moving a larger volume of air to
run higher pressures to force that air in to make power. These have helped to make good power in
several ways.
• Creating a larger intake & exhaust orifice air moves freely through the motor.
• Reduction in back pressure from forcing air through keeps air temps down creating power.
• Lift & duration are not too aggressive so the full range on MIVEC tuning can still be utilized.
Add just a little meth and take that much more advantage of the increased air flow!