Installation Instructions for:

2010-2017 Toyota 4Runner

and 2010-2014 FJ Cruiser

Step-by-step instructions for installation of

the supercharger system.
* PREMIUM GASOLINE FUEL REQUIRED *

ATTENTION!
Your MAGNUSON SUPERCHARGER kit
is sensitive to corrosion! Magnuson Products LLC
Use only the vehicle manufacturer 1990 Knoll Drive, Bldg A, Ventura, CA 93003
recommended coolant for your engine in Phone (805) 642-8833
the intercooler system as well. [Link]
89-89-40-001 Rev F
 INSTALLATION MANUAL
Magnuson Supercharger Kit: Toyota 4Runner 2010-2017 and 2010-2014 FJ Cruiser
Please take a few moments to review this manual thoroughly before you begin work: Make a quick parts
check to be certain your kit is complete (see Bill of Material (BOM) parts list inside the accessory box). If you
discover shipping damage or shortage, please call our office immediately. Take a look at exactly what you are
going to need in terms of tools, time, and experience. Review our limited warranty with care.

Use only premium gasoline fuel, 91 octane or better.

Magnuson Products recommend that you run a minimum of one (1) tank of premium fuel through your
vehicle prior to installation of the system to prevent any possible damage that may occur due to running the
supercharged engine on lower octane fuel.

Magnuson Products Supercharger systems are designed for engines and vehicles in “GOOD” mechanical
condition. Magnuson Products recommend that a basic engine system “Health Check” be performed prior to
the installation of this supercharger system. Be sure to check for any pending or actual OBDII codes and fix/
repair any of the stock systems/components causing these codes. If there are codes prior to the installation
they will be there after the installation.

Magnuson Products also recommend the following services to be performed on your vehicle before starting
and running the vehicle post supercharger system installation:
• Fuel Filter change
• Engine oil and filter change using brand name oil (organic or synthetic) and filter
Note: It is VERY IMPORTANT to use the factory specified oil viscosity. The original equipment
manufacturer has selected this grade of oil to work with your other engine systems such as hydraulic chain
tensioner and variable cam controls. Deviation from this specification may cause these systems to fail or not
function properly. Please refer to your owner’s manual for the recommended oil viscosity for your engine and
application.

On older vehicles Magnuson Products recommend these additional services to be performed:

• Coolant system pressure test and flush. NOTE: YOU MUST USE TOYOTA SPECIFIED COOLANT
MIXTURE!

Non “Magnuson Approved” calibrations or “tuning” will Void ALL warranties and CARB certification.

Our supplied calibration is designed for use with the components provided in this kit. Any adjustment to the
intake, or exhaust systems or other engine components may adversely affect engine performance and may
trigger your check engine light.

Drive belt = DAYCO #5060701

Tools Required
Metric wrench set
Metric 3/8” and 1/2” drive socket set (standard & deep)
3/8” and 1/2” drive ft-lbs and in-lbs torque wrenches
Metric Allen socket set 3/8 drive
Metric Allen wrenches
Phillips and flat head screwdrivers
Serpentine belt tool
Funnel
Drain pan
Hose cutters
Hose clamp cable pliers
Safety glasses
Nut driver
Compressed air
Impact gun and 22mm and 24mm impact socket
Air gun
Clip removal tool
Telescoping magnet
Anti-sieze assembly lube (for spark plugs)

Contact Information:

Magnuson Products LLC

1990 Knoll Drive, Bldg. A
Ventura, CA 93003

Sales/Technical Support Line (805) 642-8833

Website [Link]
Email sales@[Link]
 2010-2017 Toyota 4Runner and 2010-2014 FJ Cruiser

Table of Contents
Section 1: Initial Preparation 5
Section 2: Intake Manifold Removal 6
Section 3: Spark Plug Replacement 17
Section 4: Fan Shroud and Radiator Hose Removal 20
Section 5: Auxiliary Drive Installation 24
Section 6: Supercharger Preparation and Installation 34
Section 7: Throttle Body Installation, and Hose Connections 40
Section 8: Low Temperature Radiator Installation 48
Section 9: Intercooler System Hose Routing 56
Section 10: Intercooler Electrical Connections 67
Section 11: Coolant Fill and Vehicle Testing 76
Diagrams 79
NOTE: This instruction manual follows the process we used to complete this installation on our test
vehicle. This does not imply there aren’t alternate approaches.

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Section 1: Initial Preparation

1. The first step of the installation is to gather

the handheld tuner shown. Follow the instructions
in the provided addendum page to install your
tune.

2. Your Intercooler system is sensitive

to corrosion. It’s very important to use the
OEM recommended coolant mixture in your
supercharger system as well.

3. Your system requires the use of a minimum

91 Octane gasoline fuel. This system is not
compatible with E85 fuel.

Any reference to the left or right side of

the vehicle is given from the driver’s seat
perspective.
4. Remove the negative battery cable from
the battery with a 10mm wrench. The battery
is located in the left front area of the engine
compartment. Ensure that the cable, and lead are
covered with a rag or other suitable insulator to
avoid accidental connection.

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Section 2: Intake Manifold Removal

5. Remove the engine cover by pulling up at
the front of the cover. It hinges at the back where
it can be pulled loose.

6. Squeeze the tab on the MAF connector and

pull to remove.

7. Pry the retainer loose for the electrical

harness at the yellow arrow location. Use a
screwdriver or 10 mm socket to loosen the hose
clamp at the red arrow location.

8. Use a prying tool to disconnect the electrical

harness at the location shown with the yellow
arrow. This connector can also be released by
squeezing the outer edges of the backside of the
clip.

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9. Remove the airbox lid and disconnect it

from the air inlet hose.

10. Inspect your air filter and replace as

needed.

11. Use a pry tool to remove the electrical

harness retainer from the location shown with the
arrow. This connector can also be released by
squeezing the outer edges of the backside of the
clip.

12. Disconnect the PCV hose shown with the

yellow arrow.

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13. Disconnect the vacuum line shown.

14. Remove the hose clamps on both sides of

the air inlet tube.

15. Use a 10 mm socket wrench to remove the

bolt securing the air inlet tube bracket to the valve
cover in the location shown with the arrow.

16. Remove the air inlet tube.

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17. Release the spring clamps and remove the

PCV fresh air hose shown.

18. Unplug the throttle control connector.

19. CAUTION: To avoid the danger of being

burned, do not open the drain valve while
the engine and radiator are still hot. Thermal
expansion will cause hot engine coolant and
steam to blow out from the radiator. Attach a
5/16” hose to the drain spigot on the radiator
shown with a yellow arrow. The valve is shown
with a red arrow. The drain for the 4Runner is on
the right side of the vehicle, and the FJ is on the
left.

20. Run the hose down into a drain pan. Ensure

that the pan is clean to allow reuse of the coolant.
Open the drain valve and allow the coolant to
drain completely.

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21. Pry up on the inner section of the plastic

rivets that secure the radiator cover and then
pry up on the outer section to remove them.
The locations of these rivets are shown in the
following steps depending on which vehicle you
have.

22. This step applies only to the 4Runner. The

13 rivet locations are shown with red arrows in
this photo.

23. This step applies only to the FJ. The 7 rivet

locations are shown with red arrows in this photo.

24. CAUTION: To avoid the danger of being

burned, do not remove the radiator cap while
the engine and radiator are still hot. Thermal
expansion will cause hot engine coolant and
steam to blow out from the radiator. Open the
radiator cap to allow the coolant to drain faster.

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25. Disconnect the two coolant lines located at

the throttle body. Use pliers to remove the spring
clamps, and twist or pry the hoses loose.

26. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the 4 bolts

holding the throttle body and remove the throttle
body from the vehicle.

27. Disconnect the EVAP line at the yellow

arrow location and unplug the EVAP solenoid
electrical connector located at the red arrow
location.

28. Disconnect the clip holding the electrical

wire from the last step. Push down from the top
and pry to release.

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29. Remove the two hose retainers at the

locations shown with the yellow arrows. This is
done by pinching and pulling these retainers.

30. Remove the hose shown with the arrow

from the bottom of the intake manifold.

31. Use a 12 mm socket to remove the bolt

securing the bracket at the front of the intake
manifold.

32. Remove the bolt that holds the left front side
of the intake manifold.

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33. Remove the bolt that holds the rear bracket

to the side of the intake manifold.

34. CAUTION: Before proceeding, make

sure there is no dirt or debris on or around the
base of the intake manifold. If there is, you must
remove it so that it will not enter the engine when
the intake manifold is removed.
removed Using an 8mm
Allen socket remove the 4 bolts (yellow arrow
locations) and the 2 nuts (green arrow locations).
A magnet will help to remove the nuts from their
locations.

35. Carefully remove the intake manifold

making sure that all connections have been
removed.

36. The engine is shown with the manifold

removed. Clean intake port areas with a clean dry
rag. Then use Simple Green or other appropriate
degreaser to clean port surfaces. Vacuum out
any debris from the intake ports. Ensure that
nothing gets inside the combustion chambers.
chambers

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37. Cover the ports with tape but do not cover

the studs. Remove the studs using an E-5
external Torx socket. A 5 mm socket may also
work if you do not have an E-5 Torx.

It is VERY important to not contaminate your

work environment or allow any debris to fall into
the exposed ports, or engine damage can occur.

38. Use a 12 mm socket to disconnect the bolt

holding the bracket shown with the arrow to the
cylinder head. Remove this bracket. The bracket
and bolt will not be reused.

39. Use a 12 mm socket to loosen, but do not

remove, the bracket bolt shown with an arrow.
This bracket will be reused in its present location.

40. Use a 12 mm socket to remove the lower

bolt holding the rear intake manifold bracket.
Remove this bracket. This bracket will not be
reused.

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41. Use a 10 mm socket to remove the bolt

holding the bracket for the wiring harness at the
back of the left valve cover.

42. Here is the bracket removed in the last step.

This bracket will be attached to the back of the
supercharger in a later step using the OEM bolt.

43. Remove the bolt holding the wiring harness

at the back of the intake valley.

44. Here is the bracket removed in the last step.

This will be discarded.

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45. Slide the plastic wiring harness retainer off

the metal bracket shown.

46. Use a small screwdriver to disengage

the harness clamp that was removed from the
bracket in the last step. This will be flipped
around to reposition the wiring harness.

47. Rotate the clamp from the last step, and

reinsert it back onto the bracket. You may have to
bend this bracket towards the back of the engine
bay to gain more clearance later.

48. Remove the two plastic clamps shown with

arrows from their mounting posts. Disengage the
plastic clamps from the wiring harness. These will
not be reused.

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49. Remove the studs from both arrow locations

using pliers. These will not be reused. In this
photo the studs have already been removed
and the wire harness is positioned in the correct
configuration to provide clearance for the
supercharger.

Section 3: Spark Plug Replacement

50. Your vehicle may not have the air injection
system shown in the next few steps. Unplug
the electrical connection for the secondary air
injection valve.

51. Disconnect the 3 bolts holding the

secondary air injection valve from the last step.

52. Disconnect the two bolts for the secondary

air injection valve.

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53. Set the secondary air injection valve to the

side. This will be reinstalled after the spark plugs
have been replaced.

54. Ensure that the metal gasket (shown with

an arrow) does not get misplaced. Repeat this
process for the opposite side air injection valve.

55. CAUTION: Blow any dirt or debris from

around the spark plugs before removing them.
Remove the bolts located at the ignition coils.
Three are shown in this photo, and there are
three on the other side.

56. Unplug the electrical connections from all

6 ignition coils. Pull out the ignition coils, and
replace the spark plugs one at a time to maintain
the coils in their original locations.

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57. Remove the spark plugs and discard them

in a box for the customer. New provided plugs will
be installed. You can use a magnet to extract the
spark plugs from their bores.

58. Set Spark Plug Gap at 0.8 mm (0.032”). A

little anti-seize on the plug threads will prevent
seizing in the future. Use a piece of hose that will
fit tightly around the plug (or a spark plug socket)
to hand thread the 6 new spark plugs into place.
Thread the plugs in place using a socket and
extension. Torque the spark plugs to 20 Nm (15 ft
lbf). Reinstall the ignition coils and the bolts and
torque them to 10 Nm (7.4 ft lbf).

59. Reinstall the electrical connection for the

ignition coils.

60. Reinstall the two secondary air injection

valves following the reverse order of removal.
Ensure that the metal gasket is properly located.

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Section 4: Fan Shroud and Radiator

Hose Removal
61. This step applies only to the 4Runner.
Remove the plastic hose clamp from the fan
shroud. This clamp will be removed, and
discarded later.

62. Remove the hose clamp at the thermostat

neck.

63. Place towels below the thermostat neck to

catch any coolant still in the system. Remove the
three bolts holding the thermostat housing.

64. Remove the thermostat housing from the

vehicle. Parts from this will be reused in a later
step.

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65. Install a clean rag into the location where

the thermostat housing was (green arrow). If
you have an air injection system remove the bolt
shown with the yellow arrow.

66. If you have an air injection system you will

remove the clip shown. This will be replaced with
a provided clip later.

67. Remove the 4 nuts holding the cooling fan

to the water pump.

68. Remove the bolt shown at the arrow

location on the radiator fan shroud. This bolt
located further to the side on the FJ.

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69. Remove the three bolts holding the radiator

reservoir in place. Two of these bolt locations
are shown with yellow arrows, and one is on
the opposite side of the radiator reservoir. Also
remove the bolt shown with the red arrow on the
fan shroud. The bolt with the red arrow is in a
slightly different area on the FJ.

70. Disconnect the overflow hose.

71. Remove the hose clamp from the lower

radiator hose, and disconnect the hose. This
location is much easier to access if you remove
the gravel guard under the truck and remove the
clamp from underneath.

72. Remove the hose clamp from the upper

radiator hose, and disconnect the hose.

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73. This step applies only to the FJ. Remove

the hose clamp at the location shown with the
arrow. At this point you should be able to remove
the fan shroud by pulling up on it for the FJ.

74. This step applies only to the 4Runner.

Remove the bolt holding the hard lines in place
on the fan shroud.

75. This photo applies only to the 4Runner.

4Runner In
this photo you can see the location of the bolt
from the last step (yellow arrow). Also the plastic
clamp for the hoses (red arrow) will need to be
disengaged. Finally before removing the fan
shroud you will need to remove the bolt at the
lower location (green arrow). Pull the fan shroud
straight up. This will allow the tabs at the bottom
(blue arrows) to disengage.

76. Cut a piece of cardboard to match the

radiator size, and tape it to the back side.
This will help to protect the fins while you are
performing work on the crank pulley.

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77. Install at least two of the four nuts back on

the pulley to help maintain the pulley on the water
pump.

Section 5: Auxiliary Drive

Installation

78. Remove the crank bolt at the end of the

crank pulley using a 22 mm impact socket, and
an air impact gun. Be careful not to crush the
radiator while backing the bolt out. Remove the
crank bolt. This will not be reused.

79. Gather the provided pulley. This pulley has

an alignment pin shown with the arrow.

80. Align the pin from the provided pulley in the

last photo with the keyway shown with the arrow
on the crank pulley.

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81. Install the supplied crankshaft pulley in front

of the existing crankshaft pulley making certain
that the dowel pin in the new pulley is aligned
with the key way in the existing pulley using the
new supplied bolt with a 24mm head and washer.
Torque the bolt to 277 Nm (204 ft lbf).

82. Gather the thermostat housing assembly

that was removed earlier. Remove the gasket for
use on the provided assembly. Clean and inspect
the gasket for damage and replace if necessary.

83. Gather the provided plastic tool to remove

the thermostat. This tool may be a different color.

84. Align the provided thermostat removal tool

as shown.

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85. Push down and rotate the tool 90°. Now

release the tool.

86. Here is the thermostat after removal. The

arrow location shows the “jiggle valve” which
must be oriented as shown in the next photo.

87. Ensure that the “jiggle valve”, shown with

the arrow, is oriented with the arrow location
once installed. This is upper most position when
installed in the vehicle.

88. Install the thermostat into the provided

thermostat housing by pressing down on the tool,
and rotating the thermostat to line up with the
retaining tabs. Once again make sure that the
“jiggle valve” is oriented .

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89. Here you can see the thermostat after

proper installation with the retainer lined up with
the tabs.

90. Install the gasket at the flange of the

provided thermostat housing.

91. Remove the rag from the surface where

the thermostat was mounted. Clean the gasket
surface.

92. Install the new thermostat housing using the

OEM nuts. Torque these nuts to 80 in-lbs
in-lbs.

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93. Gather the following tensioner assembly

parts. These will be installed in the next steps.
The color of the large bracket may be different
than what is included in your kit.

94. Rotate the tensioner bolt (yellow arrow)

counterclockwise to release belt tension, and
remove the belt from the alternator. NOTE: It is
not necessary to completely remove the belt.
Also inspect this belt and replace if necessary.
Remove the bolt holding the idler pulley (red
arrow), and temporarily remove the idler pulley.
This bolt will be replaced with a stud in the next
steps.

95. Gather the provided M10x55mm stud and

apply Loctite 242 to the tapered end as shown.
The tapered end will be installed into the hole
shown in the next step.

96. Install the stud from the last step. Either use
a stud installation tool, or double nut the end as
shown here.

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97. Set the stud to protrude 40 mm from the

machined surface.

40 mm

98. Reinstall the idler pulley over the stud

installed in the last step, and reinstall the belt.
You will find a belt routing diagram in the back of
this manual.

99. Remove the bolt at the arrow location near

the oil filler neck. This bolt will not be reused.

100. Install the provided spacer in the provided

bracket where shown. The next step has a better
image of the location on the provided bracket.
Ensure that the spacer is fully threaded into the
bracket by hand. This will be adjusted later.

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101. The spacer installed in the last step is

located on the back side of this provided bracket
(yellow arrow). Install the bracket as shown with
the provided stud for the idler protruding through
the location shown with the red arrow.

102. Apply Loctite 242 to the provided M8 x

20mm bolt.

103. Also apply Loctite 242 to the thread of the

provided M10 flange nut.

104. Install the M8x20mm bolt at the red arrow

location, and the M10 flange nut at the green
arrow location. These will be torqued later on.

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105. Ensure that the spacer has a gap at the

arrow location before torquing the nut and bolt
from the last step. Rotate the spacer to create
more gap if necessary. Once you have seen that
there is a gap torque the M8 bolt to 18 ft-lbs, and
the M10 nut to 25 ft-lbs.
ft-lbs After torquing the M8
bolt and M10 nut you will rotate the spacer until it
makes light contact with the surface shown at the
arrow location.

106. Apply Loctite 242 to the threads on the

provided M8x120mm bolt.

107. Install the M8x120mm bolt from the last step

in the arrow location, and torque it to 18 ft-lbs.
ft-lbs

108. Apply Loctite 242 to the three provided

M10x16mm bolts.

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109. Install the two smooth idlers at the yellow

arrow locations, and the ribbed idler at the red
arrow location using the M10x16mm bolts from
the last step. Torque these three bolts to 25 ft-lbs
ft-lbs.

110. Apply Loctite 242 to the provided M8x65mm

bolt that will be used to install the tensioner
assembly.

111. Route the belt following the diagram in the

back of this manual as you install the tensioner
assembly from the last step in the location shown
with the arrow. Torque the M8x65mm bolt to 18
ft-lbs.
ft-lbs

112. Remove the vacuum hose shown. This will

not be reused.

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113. Install the provided 3/16” diameter 20” long

vacuum hose in place of the hose removed in the
last step.

114. Release the clamp on the hose shown, and

remove the hose.

115. Remove the two spring clamps from the

hose in the last step. The spring clamps will be
added to the provided hose. The hose will not be
reused.

116. Gather the 3/8” diameter 20” long hose

and install the 5/8” diameter 14” long split loom
centered over it (yellow arrow). Install the two
spring clamps from the last step over the ends.
These spring clamps may need to be adjusted to
allow greater tension on the hose.

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117. Install the hose assembly from the last step

in the location of the hose that was removed
three steps ago.

118. Remove and discard the clip from the

location shown with the arrow.

Section 6: Supercharger Preparation

and Installation
119. Remove the gasket from the OEM intake
manifold. Inspect the gasket and replace if
necessary.

120. Install the gasket from the last step on the

supercharger as shown ensuring that it locates
completely into the groove.

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121. Turn the supercharger housing upright

and remove the 13 M6x20mm bolts and the 4
M6x50mm bolts that secure the lid assembly
taking note of their locations. Retain these bolts.
CAUTION: Do not remove the bolt between
the two coolant barbs (location shown with red
arrow). Remove the lid assembly. Record the
serial number which is located at the outside
of the supercharger gear cover (yellow arrow DO NOT REMOVE
location) for warranty purposes. The serial THIS BOLT
number is also located on the shipping box.

122. Apply Loctite 242 to the 6 manifold bolts.

123. Remove the tape from the intake ports.

Make sure the surface is clean and that all
obstructions have been removed.

124. Carefully, position the supercharger main

housing on the intake manifold and hand start
the 6 bolts from two steps ago. Do not tighten at
this time. Ensure that the housing sits flat on the
intake manifold. You may have to move hoses or
electrical lines for more clearance.

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125. Torque the manifold bolts to 28 Nm (21 ft

lbf) starting from the center and working your
way outwards in a criss-cross pattern.

126. Apply Loctite 242 to the two bolts shown

with arrows prior to installing. Install the provided
bracket for the rear of the supercharger. Torque
both bolts to 28 Nm (21 ft lbf).
lbf).

127. Apply Loctite 242 to the two bolts shown

with arrows. Install the bracket shown and torque
both upper and lower bolts to 28 Nm (21 ft lbf).
lbf)

128. Install the OEM bracket for the rear wiring

harness that was removed earlier onto the back
of the supercharger using the OEM bolt. Torque
this bolt to 108 in-lbs.

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129. Insert the wiring harness retainer clamp

onto the bracket from the last step.

130. Remove the bracket shown from the OEM

manifold.

131. Install the bracket from the last step onto

the rear supercharger mounting bracket.

132. You may have to bend the tab highlighted in

green downward depending on the shape of the
OEM bracket installed in the last step for it to be
in the correct orientation.

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133. Install the hose retainer clamp onto the

bracket installed two steps ago.

134. Before you re-install the supercharger lid

inspect the charge air cooler fins for debris. Clean
as necessary.

135. Install the lid assembly back onto the

supercharger housing.

136. Apply Loctite 242 to the lid bolts.

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137. Re-install the 13 M6x20mm bolts and the

4 M6x50mm lid bolts loosely in their proper
locations. Gradually tighten the bolts starting from
the middle and working your way outwards in a
criss-cross pattern. Make three passes at lower
torque settings as you work your way up to the
final torque of 108 in-lbs.
in-lbs

138. Install the belt over all the pulleys except

the ribbed idler at the red arrow location following
the diagram at the back of this manual. Place a
1/2” drive breaker bar over into the square slot
on the tensioner at the yellow arrow location and
rotate it counterclockwise to release the tension
on the belt and then slide the belt over the ribbed
idler at the red arrow location.

139. Push the end of the 3/8” diameter hose that

was installed earlier over the 90° air fitting shown
here and secure with the OEM spring clamp.

140. You will find the provided 16” long 1/4”

diameter hose shown attached to the actuator at
the front of the supercharger. Install the provided
spring clamps on each end if they are not already
there.

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141. Install one end of the hose from the last

step in the location shown on the supercharger
near the inlet and secure with a provided spring
clamp.

142. Ensure that the O-ring is installed in the

groove at the inlet of the supercharger.

Section 7: Throttle Body

Installation, and Hose Connections

143. Re-install the two coolant hoses at the

yellow arrow location of the throttle body. Install
the 4 OEM throttle body bolts at the red arrow
locations and torque them to 108 in-lbs.
in-lbs

144. Loosen the two clamps shown with

red arrows on the air inlet tube. Remove the
expansion chambers from air inlet tube.

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145. Remove the air fitting shown from the air

inlet tube.

146. Apply a thin coat of Lubriplate grease to the

inner bores of the 3 areas you disconnected parts
from on the air inlet tube.

147. Insert the provided plug into the air inlet.

Press the plug in place until it bottoms out.

148. Insert the two provided plugs into the open

bores shown. Align the tabs of the plugs with the
notches on the inlet. Press each plug on until
it bottoms out, and secure them with the OEM
clamps.

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149. Apply a thin film of Lubriplate grease around

the inner bore of both ends on the inlet tube.

150. Reinstall the inlet tube onto the throttle

body.

151. Ensure that the air filter is in place. Install

the inlet hose onto the airbox lid, and secure the
airbox lid with the 4 clips.

152. Tighten the clamps at both ends of the air

inlet hose.

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153. Plug in the MAF sensor wiring harness

and its mounts at their original locations.

154. Connect the vacuum line and vent hose at

the arrow locations.

155. Connect the opposite end of the 16” long

1/4” diameter hose to the bypass actuator shown,
and secure with the provided spring clamp.

156. Plug in the throttle control wiring.

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157. Remove the EVAP solenoid from the OEM

intake manifold along with the attached hose.

158. Here is the EVAP solenoid with the hose

removed in the last step.

159. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove

the OEM bracket from the EVAP solenoid and
install the provided bracket shown here. The tab
shown with the arrow is where the electrical wire
support will go in a later step.

160. Disconnect the hoses to the left secondary

air injection valve.

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161. Remove the bolt shown at the left front

supercharger bracket and the associated air
injection hose support if equipped.

162. Install the EVAP solenoid bracket in the

location where the bolt was removed in the last
step.

163. Route the hose from the EVAP solenoid

through the small hose at the air injection valve
and around it to the 90° hose barb at the side of
the supercharger.

164. Plug in the EVAP solenoid electrical

connection.

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165. Connect the wire support at the green arrow

location of the EVAP solenoid bracket that was
just installed.

166. Mark and cut the OEM EVAP hose to fit the
new location.

167. After you have cut the hose from the last
step connect it to the EVAP solenoid and secure
with the OEM clamp.

168. The next six steps are only for vehicles

equipped with an air injection system. If you
vehicle is equipped with air injection remove the
rubber hose shown with the arrow. This will be
replaced with a provided hose in the next step.

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169. Gather the 3/4” diameter 6” long silicone

hose and the two spring clamps shown.

170. Attach the hose from the last step at the

two locations shown with arrows. Secure with the
provided spring clamps.

171. Gather the provided bracket shown and

install it using the bolts from the tensioner, and
the idler.

172. Install the provided cable ties with the “tree”

mounts in the two locations on the bracket just
installed.

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173. Wrap the cable ties around the OEM air

injection hose and secure into place. Trim the
excess cable tie material.

Section 8: Low Temperature

Radiator Installation

174. If you have an FJ skip ahead to the steps

that are specific to removing the hood support on
your vehicle.
Unplug the cable shown that is located near the
hood latch.

175. Disconnect the securing points for the

wire assembly (yellow arrow), and the electrical
connector (red arrow).

176. Unplug both horns. There is only one horn

on the FJ.

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177. Disconnect the three bolts shown with

arrows holding the hood latch cover.

178. Here is the hood latch cover after removal.

179. Remove both horns. Again there is only one

horn on the FJ.

180. Remove the three bolts holding the hood

latch.

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181. Disconnect the mount holding the wire

harness for the hood latch.

182. Unplug the electrical connection for the

hood latch.

183. Pull the hood latch cable housing end loose

from the bracket. Rotate the cable to allow the
ball end to release from the latch bracket. Set the
hood latch aside for later installation.

184. Remove the upper bolt from the center

brace for the hood latch.

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185. Remove the lower bolt from the center

brace.

186. Located behind the grille you will find the

last bolt holding the center support. Remove this
bolt. Remove this center support from the vehicle.
It will be reinstalled later.

187. FJ Hood Support Bracket Replacement.

If you have an FJ Cruiser you will need to use
the provided center support shown. Follow the
next steps to remove the radiator grill and OEM
bracket.

188. This step applies only to the FJ. Remove

the two bolts shown with arrows using a 10 mm
wrench or Phillips head screwdriver.

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189. This step applies only to the FJ. Remove

the two plastic rivets above the indicator lights.
One is shown here with an arrow.

190. This step applies only to the FJ. Pry the

tab shown on both sides near the headlights
to the side and you lightly pull the grill away to
disengage the connection.

191. This step applies only to the FJ. Use a

large flat head screwdriver or pry bar to twist the
center support away at the location shown with
the arrow.

192. This step applies only to the FJ. Repeat

the process from the last step at the left and
right locations on the grill. One of these locations
is shown here with an arrow. At this point you
should be able to remove the grill.

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193. This step applies only to the FJ. Remove

the plastic cover from the hood latch. This is held
by clips in three locations shown with arrows
here.

194. This step applies only to the FJ. Remove

the 3 bolts shown with arrows. Follow the
instructions given in the 4Runner section to
remove the cable release from the hood latch.
Set the hood latch aside for installation in a later
step.

195. This step applies only to the FJ. Carefully

remove the sensor shown by releasing the clamp
from the back side of the arrow location. This
sensor will be attached to the provided bracket.

196. This step applies only to the FJ. Remove

the upper bolt holding the bracket in place, and
the horn if you have not already done so.

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197. This step applies only to the FJ. Remove

the two lower bracket bolts shown here with
arrows. Remove the OEM bracket. It will be
replaced in a later step with the provided bracket
shown earlier. The bolt under the bumper cover
will be easier to remove if you temporarily remove
the plastic rivet from the red arrow location.

198. Gather the Low Temperature Radiator

(LTR), and the two rubber grommets shown.
Install the rubber grommets in the two lower
locations on the LTR.

199. Here is a close-up showing the proper

orientation of the grommets.

200. Remove the two caps from the spigots.

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201. Install the LTR in front of the A/C condenser.

The two rubber grommets from the last step will
fit onto the sheet metal edge near where the
condenser mounts (yellow arrows).

202. Secure the provided intercooler pump

mounting bracket in the location shown with
the arrow using a provided M6x16mm bolt. The
opposite side of this bracket will be secured later.

203. Mount the top of the LTR to the center

support using the slotted hole that had been the
location for the mount of the hood latch wiring
harness. Use the provided M6x20mm bolt and
13mm long spacer to secure this location. The
FJ will be located in the same manner using the
provided hood support bracket.

204. Reinstall the bolts holding the three

locations for the center brace. At the lower
location (yellow arrow) incorporate the other
mounting location for the intercooler pump
bracket that was installed earlier and use the
provided M6x16mm bolt. For FJ applications
install the mounting bolts in the original locations
using the provided hood support bracket.

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205. This step applies only to the FJ. Install

the sensor shown with the arrow and plug in the
electrical connection if it was removed.

Section 9: Intercooler System Hose

Routing
26”
206. Mark and cut a 26” straight piece of the
provided 3/4” diameter hose

207. Cut 4” of hose from the provided 3/4”

diameter coolant hose. This will be used later to
connect the intercooler pump to the LTR.

208. Mark and cut the short end of the 3/4”

diameter 4”x 60”x 90° hose at 1” from the inside
of the hose as shown.

1”
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209. Gather the two shrink clamps and 3/4” hose

mender. Connect the 3/4” hose mender into the
60” side of the 90° hose. Crush the shrink clamps
to remove the cardboard inside them. Slide the
shrink clamps onto the hose.

210. With the shrink clamps still on the hoses

connect the opposite side of the hose mender to
the 26” straight section of hose.

211. Use a heat gun to shrink the clamps in

place. View the next step to confirm proper
orientation.

212. Locate the clamps about 1/16th of an inch

from the end as shown. Ensure that the clamp
has been shrunk enough to start seeing a slight
bulge at the center where the barb is located
under on the plastic hose mender.

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213. Cut two 12” pieces of 1” diameter slit loom.

12”

214. Cut one 50” piece of 1” diameter slit loom.

50”

215. Place the 50” section of 1” diameter slit

loom over the 60” section of the hose assembly
that was just created. You can also see the two
pieces of 12” long slit loom in this photo.

216. Place a provided spring clamp on the 90° x

1” hose side and install it to the right side spigot
at the back of the supercharger. Ensure that it
covers the entire spigot. Using hose clamp cable
pliers will make this task easier.

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217. The hose from the last step has been

highlighted in green to show its routing along the
left side of the supercharger and down towards
the battery. Do not route this hose near the
exhaust manifold.

218. Route the hose assembly from the last step

next to the radiator in the location shown.

219. Route the hose from the last step under

the intercooler pump bracket that was installed
earlier. Install the two #16 Adel clamps
(approximately 1” inside diameter) at the
locations shown with arrows on the intercooler
pump bracket using two provided M8x16mm
bolts. The Adel clamp on the right is located at
the 3/4” hose mender.

220. Slide one 12” Long x 1” diameter slit loom

over the end of the hose from the last step.

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221. Slide the slit loom from the last step down to
protect the hose from the chassis where shown.

222. Attach the hose from the last step to the

upper LTR spigot shown. Secure this connection
with a supplied spring clamp.

223. Install the 4” piece of hose you cut earlier

onto the intercooler pump along with the two
large Adel clamps (yellow arrows). Secure one
side of the hose with a provided spring clamp,
and install the other spring clamp on the opposite
side as shown.

224. Install the hose onto the bottom spigot of

the LTR, and secure with the provided spring
clamp. Secure the Adel clamps with the provided
M8 nuts.

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225. Gather the three provided brackets, and

reservoir shown. Secure the bracket shown to
the right with two of the provided bolts (yellow
arrows) from the reservoir. The third bolt location
will be occupied with one of the two brackets
shown to the left. The one mounted in the red
arrow location is for the 4Runner, and the other
is for FJ Cruisers. Keep the bolt in the red
arrow location loose until you have mounted the
brackets into the vehicle.

226. Install the brackets for the reservoir using

an M6x12mm bolt at the yellow arrow location, an
M6x16mm bolt and nut at the red arrow location,
and an M8x16mm bolt at the green arrow
location.

227. This step applies only to the FJ. If you have

an FJ you will need to use the FJ bracket shown
two steps ago and mount it in the same location
as the bracket for the 4Runner. Move the OEM
bracket from the red arrow location to the black
arrow location. Replace the OEM bolt with the
provided M8x20mm bolt and spacer at the black
arrow location, and insert the tab into the bracket
hole at the yellow arrow location.

228. After you have tightened the bolts by the

brake reservoir and the fenderwell tighten the
three bolts on the back of the reservoir.

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229. Mark and cut a provided 4”x18”x90° to 1”

from the inside edge on the short side.

1”
230. Mark and cut the hose from the last step to
16” from the outside edge on the long side.

16”
231. Mark and cut the other provided 4”x18”x90°
to 3” from the outside edge on the short side.

3”

232. Mark and cut the hose from the last step to
6” from the outside edge on the long side.

6”

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233. Apply a light coat of grease to the inside of

the two hoses that were just cut.

234. Install a shrink clamp to the 6” end of the

hose just cut and press that end over the 90°
hose mender shown to the left in this photo.
Make sure the 90° is facing the direction shown
in this photo. Shrink the clamp into place in the
same manner as was done earlier with the right
side charge air cooler to LTR hose.

235. Install a shrink clamp to the end of the 16”

long section of the hose cut earlier, and press it
over the other end of the 90° hose mender with it
oriented as shown in this photo. The shorter end
should be facing up. Shrink the clamp in place in
the same manner as before. After the clamps are
secure add one of the 12” long pieces of slit loom
shown.

236. Install the short end of the hose assembly

from the last step onto the left side spigot on
the back of the supercharger and secure with
a provided hose clamp. Again this will be much
easier to do with hose clamp cable pliers.

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237. Attach the opposite side of the hose from

the last step onto the to the upper barb on the
intercooler reservoir, and secure with a provided
worm gear clamp.

238. Cut a 56” length of 3/4” hose. This hose

length will be 51” for the FJ Cruiser.
Cruiser
56”

239. Slide the hose from the last step under the
plastic shield near the radiator where shown with
the arrow. This shield is not on the FJ, but the
hose will route in the same direction.

240. This step applies only to the 4Runner. Here

is a close-up view of the area where the hose
from the last step goes through. There is a piece
of foam here that will conform to the shape of the
hose.

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241. This step applies only to the 4Runner.

Once the hose has gone through the plastic
panel shown in the last step continue routing the
hose behind the headlight, and behind the panel
shown with an arrow.

242. This step applies only to the FJ. Here you

can see the routing for the hose from the coolant
pump inlet to the reservoir tank on the FJ Cruiser
highlighted in green. This will go behind the
headlight through the opening shown with the
arrow.

243. Once you have routed the hose from the

last step far enough for the opposite end to line
up with the inlet of the intercooler pump you can
connect it there. Secure the end with a provided
spring clamp.

244. Cut 46” of provided slit loom.

46”

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245. Place the slit loom that was cut in the last
step over the end of the 56” (51” for FJ) hose.

246. Continue routing the hose from the last

step behind the battery and fuse box as shown
highlighted in green.

247. Install the end of the hose from the last step
onto the lower reservoir barb, and secure with a
provided worm gear clamp.

248. The threaded hole shown with the arrow

will be used in the next step to hold the Adel
clamp in the following step.

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249. Use the provided M6x10mm bolt, and the

provided Adel clamp to secure the right side
spigot hose at the rear of the supercharger at the
location shown in the last step.

250. Gather the provided 1/2” wide tie wrap

shown here.

251. Secure the left charge air cooler hose to the

right charge air cooler hose using the cable tie
from the last step. Do not crush the hose with the
cable tie. Trim the excess once you are done.

Section 10: Intercooler Electrical

Connections
252. Release the latch at the back of the fuse
box lid, and tilt to remove.

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253. Remove the nut at the positive wire for the

fuse box shown with the arrow.

254. The next 5 steps apply only to the 4Runner.

Push out on the two smaller tabs (shown with
arrows) to release the wire housing, and pull up
on the wire.

255. Unwrap the tape holding the plastic wire

housing to the positive wire.

256. Here you can see the plastic wire housing

with the tape removed from the vehicle.

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257. Here is an inside view of the wire housing.

Remove the area that has been highlighted in
green using a rotary cutting tool, or other suitable
device.

258. Here you can see the housing after the

piece has been removed. Ensure that the inside
surfaces are cut flush with the surrounding area
for proper clearance.

259. Locate the following provided intercooler

relay harness and fuse. Remove the cap and
install the fuse into the fuse holder. Replace the
fuse cap.

260. Install the relay and the fuse holder in the

location shown behind the fuse. Use the provided
M6x15mm bolt to go up through fender well and
install the M6 serrated nut at the top.

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261. Use the diagram under the fuse box lid to

locate the “10A INJ” fuse. This will be replaced
with a provided fuse, and fuse tap. The location
shown is different on the FJ.

262. Use the fuse extractor tool provided with

your vehicle to remove the “10A INJ” fuse you
found in the last step.

263. At the area where the red and yellow wires

are for the intercooler relay harness you will
need to remove the section of slit loom shown.
Leave approximately 1.75” of loom near the “T”
intersection.

1.75”
264. Wrap electrical tape at the end of the slit
loom.

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265. This step applies only to the 4Runner.

Route the red and yellow wires from the
intercooler relay harness behind the positive wire,
and wrap with electrical tape in the area shown
with an arrow.

266. This step applies only to the 4Runner.

Wrap the lower portion of the wire housing with
the original tape if the adhesive is still good.
Otherwise apply new electrical tape to this area.

267. This step applies only to the FJ. Route the

yellow and red wires as shown and ensure that
they are wrapped with electrical tape up to the
point shown with the arrow.

268. Connect the supplied fuse to the fuse tap on

the yellow wire as shown.

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269. Install the new fuse into the “10A INJ”

location (yellow arrow). The fuse location will
be different for the FJ. Incorporate the eyelet
connector from the red wire of the relay harness
on top of the eyelet for the positive wire that was
removed earlier (red arrow location), and press
the assembly with the plastic housing back in
place as you locate the two eyelets on the stud
and secure with the OEM nut.

270. Route the black wire from the relay harness

(green arrow) around the front of the fuse box
near the battery negative terminal. Remove the
bolt on ground wire at the left inner fender shown
(red arrow). Incorporate the eyelet from the black
wire of the relay harness with the ground location
from the last step, and secure with the OEM bolt.
Reinstall the fuse box lid.

271. Route the intercooler pump connection

down through the hole where the right charge
air cooler hose was routed earlier next to the
radiator.

272. Continue to route the wire from the last

step behind the intercooler pump bracket. Plug
in the electrical connection to the intercooler
pump. Secure this wire with a cable tie in the hole
location of the bracket shown with a green arrow.

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273. Secure the wire loom for the intercooler

pump next to the hose shown using the provided
cable ties in the locations shown with arrows.

274. Plug in the electrical connection at the hood

latch.

275. Connect the housing for the electrical

connection from the last step behind the LTR into
the slot shown with the arrow. Follow the removal
steps for the hood latch and horns in reverse
order to reinstall them.

276. Cut 1/2” off the lower end of the lower

radiator hose. For the FJ Cruiser you will need
to remove 1.5” from this location. Also remove
the plastic clamp shown with the arrow. This
clamp will not be reused because it was found to 0.5”
come loose when relocated. Loosen the rubber
reinforcement that the clamp is glued to in order
to reposition it. Be careful not to damage the
hose. The FJ Cruiser does not have the plastic
clamp or rubber reinforcement.

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277. This step applies only to the 4Runner. Cut

1” off the upper end of the lower radiator hose.
Do not cut any hose from this location for the FJ.
1.0”

278. The steps involving the installation of this

cable tie are only necessary for the 4Runner.
Gather the 1/2 wide cable tie shown. This will
replace the plastic clamp that was removed in the
last step.

279. You will need to notch the fan shroud in two

places for the large cable tie that will take the
place of the white plastic clamp that was located
in this area. These slots will be approximately
1/2”L x 1/8”W. The first slot location is highlighted
in green here located near the square cutout for
the plastic mount on the fan shroud (red arrow
location). Another slot will be made in the next
step located on the side shown with the yellow
arrow here.

280. The green highlighted region in this photo

shows the location for the slot in the side of the
fan shroud referred to in the last photo. This slot
should run parallel to right edge shown in this
photo, and be 1/2”Lx1/8”W. Test fit the two slots
with the 1/2” cable tie from two steps ago. You
can route this cable tie using the directions two
steps ahead. This will be much easier to do with
the fan shroud out of the vehicle.

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281. Remove the cardboard from the back of the

radiator and replace the fan shroud, fan, radiator
reservoir, and hoses following the removal
procedures in reverse. Do not install the lower
radiator hose, or radiator cover yet.

282. Run the 1/2” wide cable tie through the

1/2”Lx1/8”W slot that was made three steps ago
and then have it come out through the other
slot that was made. This cable tie is shown
highlighted in green.

283. Reconnect the lower radiator hose ensuring

that the upper part of the hose is rotated to allow
about 1/4” clearance between the hose, pulley,
and fan blade.

284. Position the hose from the last step against

the flat portion near the slots that were cut out.
Reposition the rubber reinforcement around
the hose to coincide with the placement of the
cable tie (shown with arrow) and lightly secure
it in place with the 1/2” wide cable tie that was
partially installed earlier. Do not crush the hose
with the cable tie. Trim the excess off the cable
tie.

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285. This step applies only to the 4Runner.

Remove the two clamps from the wiring harness
at the back of the engine compartment shown
with arrows.

286. This step applies only to the 4Runner. Use

the supplied “tree” end cable tie to secure the
wiring harness in the location shown. This will
give it clearance away from the charge air cooler
hoses.

Section 11: Coolant Fill and Vehicle

Testing
287. Install the upper radiator hose and secure
with the OEM spring clamps. Ensure that the
drain plug for the radiator is closed. Filter the
saved coolant that was drained from the radiator
earlier, and use that to re-fill the radiator.

288. If you run out of coolant continue to top off

with a Toyota approved coolant mixture. Check
the coolant level inside the radiator by squeezing
the inlet and outlet radiator hoses several times
by hand. If the coolant level goes down, add
coolant. Install the radiator cap.

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289. Slowly pour coolant into the radiator

reservoir until it reaches the FULL line. Reinstall
the cap to the radiator and the radiator reservoir.

290. Install the belt routing diagram under the

hood, the “Use Premium Fuel Only” label on the
fuel door, and the OBDII port cover as shown in
this photo.

291. Reconnect the negative lead of the battery.

Make sure that you have followed step #1 in

this manual to load the proper supercharger
calibration to your vehicle’s ECM.

292. Fill the intercooler reservoir with a Toyota

approved coolant mixture until it is full. We used
about 3 Liters (3.2 quarts) of fluid. Have someone
else cycle your ignition switch to the accessory
mode to trigger the pump on. Do not start the
vehicle! This will circulate the fluid. Once the
reservoir drains turn the ignition switch off, and
fill it again. Do not allow the reservoir to run dry.
Check for fluid leaks. Also check for fuel leaks at
this time. Repeat until full circulation is achieved
with a full reservoir. Fluid level should be just
above the top barb. Re-install the reservoir cap.

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293. Check the belts to see that they are properly

aligned on all the pulleys. Start the engine and
let it idle. Check for fuel, and coolant leaks. Stay
clear of any moving parts. Check the air intake for
leaks, and tighten any loose fittings. Shut down
the engine, and allow it to cool. Squeeze the inlet
and outlet hose on the radiator to remove trapped
air from the system.

294. Once the engine has cooled down check

the level of the radiator reservoir, and the
intercooler reservoir. Add coolant if necessary.
Reinstall the radiator cover, and the radiator grill
(FJ only).

295. Test drive the vehicle for the first few miles
under normal driving conditions. Do not perform
any wide open throttle runs. Check for any
unusual sounds, vibrations, or engine misfires.
The supercharger does have a slight whining
noise under boost conditions, which is normal.
After the initial test let the engine cool down, and
recheck coolant levels and inspect for leaks.

296. After the initial test drive gradually work the

vehicle to wide open throttle runs. Listen for any
engine detonation (pinging). If engine detonation
is detected let up on the throttle immediately.
Most detonation is caused by low octane gasoline
still in the tank. Premium 91 octane fuel is
required. Enjoy your new supercharger.

If you have questions about your vehicle’s

performance, please check with your installation
facility.
After you finish your installation and road test your
vehicle, please fill out the warranty registration. This
can be found on our website.
04/18 Page 78 [Link]
 2010-2017 Toyota 4Runner and 2010-2014 FJ Cruiser

Diagrams

IDLER
ALT.
POWER WATER
STEERING PUMP

TENS.
IDLER

CRANK A/C
IDLER

2010-2017 4RUNNER OEM BELT ROUTING

04/18 Page 79 [Link]

 Please enjoy your “Magnuson SuperCharged”
performance responsibly.

Use only premium gasoline fuel, 91 octane or better.