• INFORMATION SHEET 1.

1
PREPARE PRE-DELIVERY INSPECTION

Learning Objectives:

After reading this INFORMATION SHEET, YOU MUST be able to:

1.1 Identify required items before pre- delivery inspection on the vehicle
1.2 Prepare required items in the vehicle
1.3 Install factory-loaded parts on the vehicle
1.4 Removal of emergency towing eyelets, spring locks, labels, tags,
stickers, covers and body protective films
1.5 Adjust tire pressure into standard pressure based on manufacturer’s
standards

INTRODUCTION:

This module presents how to perform pre-delivery inspection and the

different parts associated to it. This module will also explain how the
different parts and functions, and work together to perform one single unit.
Performing pre-delivery inspection plays an important role in a vehicle.
The preventive maintenance inspection is a program of routine checks
and procedures performed on a scheduled and recurring basis to avoid
breakdowns and prolong equipment life. These are maintenance and
inspection items which are considered to be the owner’s responsibility. They
can be performed by the owner or he can have them done at a service shop.
These items include those which should be checked on a daily basis, those
which, in most cases, do not require (special) tools and those which are
considered to be reasonable for the owner to perform. Items and procedures
for general maintenance are as follows.
 1.1 IDENTIFY REQUIRED ITEMS BEFORE PRE-
DELIVERY INSPECTION ON THE VEHICLE
1.1.1 Purpose of PDI

Vehicles assembled and having passed the final test are shipped to each
distributor. The vehicles to be shipped to the distributors are prepared by
the manufacturer for ocean transportation as well as for long-term storage.
The vehicles shipped from the manufacturing plant are not directly delivered
to the customers, but have to be inspected and adjusted for ease of their
use. This kind of inspection is called PDI. For example, the fuse, which has
been disconnected to prevent the battery from running down, must be
installed. And the protective wax or wrap films protecting the paint surface
and exterior finish must be removed with the specified method described in
the PDI manual.
Pre-Delivery Inspection and Periodic Maintenance” manual has been provided
to manufacturer dealers to properly carry out PDI services. This manual
contains inspection procedures, specifications, tightening torques, etc., and they
probably require technicians to follow some of related tasks referring to
applicable Workshop Manuals.

It is important to carry out regular servicing and inspections of vehicles for a

number of reasons:
● to ensure the vehicle stays in a safe condition
● to keep the vehicle operating within tolerances specified by the manufacturer
and regulations
● to ensure the vehicle is reliable and to reduce downtime
● to maintain efficiency
● to extend components’ and the vehicle’s life
● to reduce running costs
● to keep the vehicle looking good and to limit damage from corrosion.

Pre-service inspection.
The concept of a pre-service inspection should be applied to all equipment new
to the fleet, whether new or used. With used vehicles, beginning with a C level
PM inspection (and service) is preferred and recommended. Additionally, all
accessible nuts, bolts, and adjustments (lug nuts, hub nuts, axle nuts, bell
housing bolts, motor mounts, dash screws, front-end alignment, etc.) not
normally checked as part of a level C inspection should be checked, re-torqued,
and/or adjusted.
Developing a pre-service checklist of what you consider key components is
critical.

New vehicles can benefit from this process as well. Since everything is new,
you may be less concerned with the overall condition of the unit, but you will
still want to make sure everything has been properly located and torqued. Many
maintenance pros have “horror stories” concerning problems with brand new
vehicles.

Inspections are usually:

● aural – listening for problems

● visual – looking for problems
● functional – checking that things work.

The main types of inspection, in addition to what is carried out when

servicing, are:

● prework
● postwork
● pre-delivery inspection (PDI)
● used vehicle inspection
● special inspection (e.g. after an accident).

Information sources
The main sources of information are:

● technical manuals
● technical bulletins
● servicing schedules
● job card instructions
● inspection records
● checklists.

All of the main manufacturers have online access to this type of information. It
is essential that proper documentation is used and that records are kept of the
work carried out. For example:

● job cards
● stores and parts records
● Manufacturers’ warranty systems.

These are needed to ensure that the customer’s bill is accurate and that
information is kept on file in case future work is required or warranty claims are
made.
Results of any tests carried out will be recorded in a number of different ways.
The actual method will depend on what test equipment was used. Some
equipment will produce a printout, for example. However, results of all other
tests should be recorded on the job card. In some cases this may be done
electronically but it is the same principle. Remember: always make sure that the
records are clear and easy to understand.

SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS:

Note:*The inspection should be conducted according to the sequence

described in the TABLE OF PRE-DELIVERY INSPECTION in the PDI manual.

CAUTION:
Note: * A LITTLE ATTENTION TO MAINTENACE WILL HELP ENSURE THE
VEHICLE’S SATISFACTORY PERFORMANCE.

Things to remember during Pre-delivery inspection

• Be sure that everything you specified is on the line-setting sheet and

actually on the vehicle.
• Check the model and serial numbers, sizes, etc. of all components,
and log them into your recordkeeping system.
• You should also consider doing pre-service inspections on vehicles
that have been inactive for a significant amount of time (due to
extended maintenance, driver unavailability, accident repairs, drop in
demand, etc.).
• It would create another set of problems if a vehicle fresh off major
repairs broke down for an unrelated reason that could have been
found in a pre-service inspection.
• How much time should you spend on a pre-service inspection? The
time spent on a pre-service check depends on fleet policy. The
objective is to make sure that every part is tight and in good working
condition.
• Fleets that consider the pre-service check to be an important part of
PM assign the mechanics who will be in charge of the vehicle to the
task.
• Managers/Supervisors who feel a superficial check is good enough
assign a less expensive employee. Either way, it is probably to your
advantage to use a detail-oriented employee.
 Washing the car is the first step of vehicle PM inspection; however it
is a good idea to inspect vehicle leaks before the washing, and then
check again the area afterward.
The inspection list should be include watching for scratches on the
exterior, immediate attention is required, the interior shouldn’t be
neglected, owner or driver should be instructed to clean the vehicle
before they leave it after the run (any important thing must be keep
by the owner/driver and the fleet provide a vacuum to clean the
interior before leave or turnover of the vehicle) the cleanliness of the
cab promotes respect for the driver/owner and his/her workplace.
The Mechanic too should leave it spotless after the inspection.

• Clean the vehicle

• Check Cabs/Mounting/tightness
• Check grab handles/condition
• Check door/door hinges/stop/locks/condition/operation

Checklist
The following details what work is involved for each item.

• Engine compartment: all fluids such as washer, coolant, brake, power

steering, transmission and engine, are topped up. The hood latch is
lubricated to ensure smooth operation, the battery is tested for full charge
and everything else is examined for visual defects and abnormal noises.

• Underside: associated oils for all-wheel drive vehicles are checked. Hoses,
lines, the exhaust system and suspension components are visually
inspected, and the brakes are serviced.

• Interior: the pedals are operated, looking for free play and the brakes
checked for correct operation. The steering wheel is aligned, and fuses
installed for the radio and other electronic accessories. Every individual
component of the interior is scrutinized. Locks, latches and hinges are
lubricated, and the clock and radio station pre-sets are adjusted
accordingly.

• Exterior: all lighting is turned on and the headlights are aimed. Tire
pressures, including the spare tire, are set to manufacturer-suggested
specifications. Windshield wipers and washer fluid level are examined, as
well as all body panels and components (i.e. weather strips, bumpers,
moldings).
• Road test: the vehicle is driven for the recommended 10 kilometers on
both city and highway roads, listening and feeling for any issues. The
engine, transmission, clutch, brakes, steering, cruise control, lane departure
warning and air suspension, if applicable, are all inspected, as is the
alignment and steering wheel for shimmying/pulling. The computer is
scanned for any diagnostic trouble codes.

• Final preparation: all protective coverings are removed, and floor mats are
put in place. Wheel covers and wheel locks are installed, if required (locks
are only used on alloy wheels). Paint condition and emblems are checked.
The jack, wheel nut wrench, owner’s manual, service passport, warranty
booklet and guides are verified to be in their proper spots. Finally, if needed,
a license plate bracket and Open Road plate frames are outfitted.

1.1.2 PREPARE REQUIRED ITEMS IN THE VEHICLE

Vehicle emergency supply kits should include:

1. A properly inflated spare tire
2. Wheel wrench
3. Tripod jack.
4. Jumper cables
5. Tool kit and/or a multipurpose utility tool.
6. Flashlight and extra batteries.
7. Reflective triangles and brightly colored cloth to make your vehicle
more visible.
8. Compass.

Why Are Spare Tyres So Important?

Temporary use spare wheels - also known as space savers - are designed for
exactly this type of problem. They are typically lighter and smaller in size
than the standard wheels on your car, which means they can be easily
stowed away until they are needed without adding additional weight to your
vehicle.

WHEN WILL IT BE USEFUL?

Spare tyres can prove invaluable in an emergency. You can use your spare
wheel to help you get safely home or to a place of repair so you can properly
assess the situation. They are a very useful and practical alternative to
inflator kits or sealants, which require some expertise to operate and can
result in damage to your tyres if used improperly.
WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT SPARE TYRES?
But because of their weight and size restrictions, there are also some
important things to be aware of when you drive on your spare tyre. The
RACQ points out that manufacturer advise drivers to drive at slower speeds
while your temporary wheel is on your vehicle. Staying below 80 km/h helps
to ensure your safety, as the smaller and lighter tyre could change the
balance of your car

Jumper cables
If your car’s battery dies, or if you encounter another motorist who needs
help, a set of jumper cables comes in handy. Before using them, however, be
sure you know how to jumpstart a car.

Flashlight
If you suffer a breakdown after dark, you’ll want a flashlight. Choose an LED
flashlight with plenty of illumination and regularly check that the batteries
are good. Carrying a spare set of batteries is also a wise idea.

Flares and matches or reflective emergency triangles

When you experience car trouble, you should pull as far off of the road as
you can to ensure your safety. Lighting road flares (using a box of matches
you keep in the car) helps to warn other drivers that you’re on the side of
the road and to slow down. An excellent alternative to road flares is a set of
reflective emergency triangles.

Multi-tool device
You’ll need basic tools to assist you if your car breaks down. A multi-tool
device, such as a Leatherman, comes in handy and doesn’t take up much
space inside your vehicle as a tool kit might.

Duct tape and plastic zip ties

In addition to a multi-tool, a roll of duct tape and a bag of plastic zip ties
can prove useful to secure loose items until you can get them repaired.
 1.1.3 INSTALL FACTORY-LOADED PARTS ON THE VEHICLE
Parts Management
1. Sourcing Parts
➢ Parts
That expensive brand-new truck, so clean and beautiful on delivery day,
begins to deteriorate the day it starts its service life. From then on it’s a
constant battle to stay one step ahead of the wear-and-tear process.
Every Maintenance Pro must plan a strategy for making sure the shop can
get a disabled truck back on the road as quickly as possible, and that
planning includes parts. We’ll briefly look at sources, warranty, and
inventory: getting, tracking and stocking parts.
2. Sources for parts
Aftermarket (selling products/parts/equipment for installation or
replacement after the vehicle is purchased) is big business. In the past, the
original equipment manufacturers (OEMs) had a lock on the aftermarket
parts market. In many cases, the non-OEM parts were viewed as inferior.
However, the appearance of better and different products in the aftermarket
area (some even viewed as superior to the OEM parts) has changed the
climate, making the parts market fairly competitive.
Because of this, the truck parts buyer has several sources for parts and
services today.
Whether purchasing parts through the OEM or an aftermarket parts dealer,
the Maintenance Pro has one important question to answer first.
Do you want to insist on new parts, or explore other options? OEMs still do
hold sway over some parts purchasing decisions. If the vehicle is under
warranty, the OEM may require that their parts be used to continue the
warranty. in some cases the use of a non-OEM part could void the warranty
on component or system.
New: The most reliable part is, of course, the brand-new part. It is
assembled and packaged by the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) or
an aftermarket parts dealer, and it is exactly like its counterpart on a new
vehicle.
The best reason for buying “new” is the long warranty that is offered and the
security of knowing that it should last as long as the original component
installed at the factory.
The disadvantages may be the price and availability. All parts for all vehicles
of all ages can’t be stocked at all OEM and parts dealers. This can lead to
vehicle downtime while you wait for parts.
No matter where you deal for new parts, you should get:
• A well-equipped parts center with state-of-the-art testing equipment
and trained personnel.
 • A full range of parts services.
• Night and weekend availability.
• An extensive inventory of parts.
• Product support that goes back to the part manufacturer; everyone
should stand behind the product from the parts dealer to the
manufacturer.
• Seasonal specials, discounts, etc. on a timely basis.
• The willingness to stock parts for you. If you discover that all your
water pumps need changed, but you do not have room to stock that
many water pumps, will you parts dealer stock them for you?
• A liberal return policy, possibly including an annual “buy-back
program” that allows for the return of overstocked items from your
inventory (restocking fees are normal in this arrangement).
• Honest communication and responsiveness to your needs, questions,
problems.
The fleet that is struggling to meet the higher prices required to purchase
parts must remember the labor costs that it takes to temporarily repair a
defective part is time that is wasted. This is due to the fact that the labor
costs will be duplicated in a short time when a part fails and must be
replaced. To sum it up, purchasing new parts helps keep labor costs down.

Used: These are parts that still have service life left in them, possibly after
some minor repair or reconditioning. They may be taken from an idle
vehicle, from a stock of used parts which are kept on hand for this purpose,
or purchased from a used parts dealer. Often the repair or\ reconditioning
can be done in-house to get a vehicle back on the road quickly. Once again,
the Maintenance Pro must consider the labor time; a used part is a
temporary measure unless the part is completely reconditioned.
A better alternative to a used part might be a “used” vehicle to fill in for
emergency service. An older, but well-maintained and still reasonably
reliable vehicle (which has been fully depreciated) can perhaps do the job.
A spare vehicle’s costs would be primarily licenses, insurance, etc. Its main
advantage is the ability to reduce downtime, the scourge of every small fleet.
One can also maintain a slim inventory by keeping a spare vehicle on hand
because it’s there to take over the run, and you have time to order the parts
needed for the disabled unit.

Rebuilt: This booming business entails more than minor repairs. A rebuild
job means disassembly, complete cleaning, inspection, replacement of any
worn components if necessary, and reassembly. You can do some rebuilding
in-house or go outside to specialty rebuilders. The quality of the rebuild
depends a great deal on the technician performing the operation and the
materials used in the rebuilding. Many fleets have developed a close
relationship with rebuild shops for certain components.
They have full confidence in the products and are also realizing significant
cost savings when comparing the rebuilt parts cost to the cost of new parts.
Repair; however, rebuilders don’t have access to the manufacturer’s specs
as a rule. Warranties are available, although they may be a bit on the short
side, or strictly limited to purchase parts used to complete the rebuild. Some
specialty shops can offer very competitive warranties because of the high-
quality work they do.
Remanufactured: A product of an assembly-line process, the
remanufactured component is really a combination of new (usually about
15%) and totally reconditioned components (85%). It is tested like a new
part to meet the OEM specifications. Design changes that have occurred
since original manufacture may also be incorporated into the remain
product. Many OEMs offer equip “exchange programs” where the customer
trades in the core component and receives an adjustable trade-in credit,
depending on its condition. Exchanging a component before failure saves
you money. High-quality remanufacturers:
• Conduct an extensive testing process under realistic operating conditions.
• Offer a warranty written in clear, specific language. Often these warranties
are equal to, or even better than, the warranties offered on the
corresponding new parts.
• Enjoy a good reputation in the industry.
• Insist on a high-quality finish for the equip component so it also looks as
good as new.
• Are often authorized to use OEM company identification or logo.
• Employ a highly trained quality-control staff.
• Have engineering staff that stays current on changes which improve the
equip product.
• Maintain membership in a national trade association.
• Have the financial backing to invest in new equipment and attract top-
quality people.
No matter where the part was sourced and what type of part it was (new,
used, rebuilt, or remanufactured) watch out for cheap imitation parts. This
kind of part can run the complete range of legitimacy and quality from
doesn’t quite fit, to a part that simply fails more quickly, to a part that is
downright dangerous.
Key parts terms
➢ We should make some distinctions between all the terms that are
currently floating around.
➢ “Genuine replacement parts” may be packaged under a private label
owned by an OEM and handled by an independent distributor.
➢ Similarly, foreign parts aren’t necessarily bogus parts. The medium-
and heavy-duty trucking industry operates in a world market today.
 ➢ Many OEMs buy components abroad. Information is your best
protection here. Check out specifically what the words on the package
mean.
➢ “Will-fit” parts are supposed to replace a particular manufacturer’s
component.
• In some cases this term has a negative meaning today. While they
may indeed do the job, will-fit parts are seen as copies of a
product.
• The manufacturers in this market do not offer any kind of technical
support or customer service. Needless to say, they don’t have
large research and development departments either.
• The uninformed customer thinks he’s getting an equivalent
product at a bargain price.
The problem of counterfeit parts
➢ Counterfeit parts are the worst of the cheap imitations. Manufacturers
of bogus parts usually choose to copy the high-volume part that
moves quickly.
➢ Any successful manufacturer is a potential target for the counterfeiter
and the practice is widespread throughout the transportation
industry: cars, buses, trucks, airplanes, and even NASA equipment for
the space shuttle program have been found with counterfeit parts.
Counterfeit parts are substandard in quality. A price that’s simply too
good to be true may be a clue, however, some brazen counterfeiters
charge full price to avoid this suspicion.
Your best weapon is information. Here are some pointers to keep in
mind:
• Deal with suppliers that you trust and know to be reputable. If a supplier
is new to you, check it out thoroughly.
• Check on the support services that come along with the products carried
by the supplier.
• Ask whether the product meets manufacturer’s specifications and has a
manufacturer’s warranty.
• Ask for customer references and the supplier’s product sources.
• The more you standardize, the better you’ll get to know the part,
packaging, identification system, etc. You and your technicians will know
what to watch for — the right amount of filtering material in an air cleaner,
for example.
• Don’t buy anything on the phone, always examine the part personally, and
don’t accept anything COD. In fact, 30-day payment terms will give you
some time to examine the part and check out how the part is working before
you have to pay for it.
• Ask your regular suppliers about new brands from other sources that
appear suddenly as a special deal.
• Watch prices, and don’t be too quick to switch to a brand-new supplier
only on the basis of price. If the prices a new supplier is offering seem too
good to be true, they probably are! It’s better to develop some competition
between your regular suppliers on price, so deal with several. Get to know
them and develop a good working relationship with all of them.

Tracking parts
➢ It’s important to know where your parts come from, but you must also
track where and when they are used, right to the end of their service
life.
➢ Recordkeeping on repair orders (ROs) can do this, so try to include the
necessary information. Parts yield great information when they lie on
the scrap heap also.
Parts/cost tracking
➢ Whenever a part is taken from the parts inventory and used, it must
be accounted for.
➢ The cost of the part must also be assigned to the correct vehicle. If this
is not done, studies done to determine the operating cost of a vehicle
will not be valid.
➢ If parts costs are not being correctly assigned to the vehicles, it will be
impossible to be accurate.
➢ Also remember to credit back parts costs for warranty
reimbursements. If you assign the cost of a part to the vehicle, then a
warranty program reimburses some or all of the cost of the new part,
there must be an accounting of this or you will not have an accurate
maintenance cost for the vehicle.
➢ In most cases this will involve going back to the original invoice and
work order and adjusting the costs accordingly.
➢ This includes even small parts such as nuts and bolts. A vehicle
requiring an unusual number of nuts and bolts will have additional
costs (not only the nuts and bolts, but the man hours to install the
nuts and bolts) and may be having problems. One concept that is in
use is “bundling” parts into kits for normal maintenance or repairs.
This makes requesting and tracking parts easier for the technician
doing the repairs, and places the recordkeeping back onto the parts
personnel. Here is an example of assigning a part number to the parts
needed to complete a normal PM B (remember, this is just an
example, you will need to determine your own parts requirements for
a PM B):
➢
Part number 1234567 includes:
• 2 — Main oil filters part number 23456
• 1 — Auxiliary oil filter part number 24680
• 1 — Fuel filter part number 34546
• 8 gallons 15w-40 oil
• 1 quart 5th wheel lubricant

The technician or parts personnel would record the one overall part number
on the RO or service checklist when doing the PM, and parts personnel
would record the actual parts used later. If the technician needs additional
parts (antifreeze, slack adjuster, tire, light bulb, air filter, etc.) the extra
parts are recorded on the RO or service checklist.

1.1.4 REMOVAL OF EMERGENCY TOWING EYELETS, SPRING LOCKS,

LABELS, TAGS, STICKERS, COVERS AND BODY PROTECTIVE FILMS

1.1.4-1 Towing eye mounting covers

1 Front cove

2 Back cover
Vehicles with a trailer tow hitch: if possible, connect the tow bar to the
trailer tow hitch
The brackets for the screw-in towing eyes are located in the bumpers. They
are at the front and at the rear, under the covers.
■ Remove the towing eye from the vehicle tool kit.

■ To open the cover at

the front: press the mark
on cover 1 inwards in the
direction of the arrow.
■ To open the cover at
the rear: insert a flat,
blunt object into the
cutout and lever cover 2
out of the bumper.
■ Take cover 1 or 2 off
the opening.
■ Screw the towing eye in
clockwise to the stop and
tighten it.

1.1.4-2 Removing the towing eye

■ Loosen the towing eye and unscrew it.
■ Attach cover 1 or 2 to the bumper and
press until it engages.
■ Place the towing eye in the vehicle tool
kit.

1.1.4-3 Towing and tow-starting

Important safety notes
WARNING if you tow the vehicle, you
must use a rigid towing bar if: - the
engine is not running. - There is a brake system malfunction.
Rigid tow bar

Important safety notes

WARNING Modifications to or work improperly conducted on restraint
system components or their wiring, as well as tampering with
interconnected electronic systems, can lead to the restraint system...

Useful information
This Operator's Manual describes all models and all standard and optional
equipment of your vehicle available at the time of publication of the
Operator's Manual. Country-specific differences...
1.1.4-4 Peel and unstick
Relax. Removing all that pressure sensitive film is straightforward. Most of it
should just peel off. But time and the ravages of ultraviolet rays from
exposure to lots of sunlight will dry out the adhesive and make the film too
brittle to peel. Worse, the half dried adhesive can't be scraped off without
the danger of damaging the paint. And that tinting film that's bubbling and
wrinkling on the rear window offers up another problem: Scraping it off with
something as innocuous as a credit card will certainly damage the silk-
screened defroster grid. Here are some tried and- true, relatively simple but
effective techniques.
TIPS 1: Use a precut trash bag to keep a solution of ammonia on your old window tint
to soften the adhesive. After a half-hour you should be able to peel it off.
TIPS 2: Most stickers should peel off with the aid of a hair dryer or just plain
sunshine.

Bumper Stickers
▪ Peel 'em off. This is easiest to do on a sunny day. Just park so the
offending sticker is in the sun, wait a half-hour or so for things to get
hot, and pry up a corner with a fingernail. Go slowly. Very slowly if the
sticker is old and fragile. Sometimes it helps to bend the sticker back
nearly flat-by doing it this way, rather than pulling at right angles,
you're less likely to rip the film or Try heating the panel with a hair
dryer or a heat gun for a couple of minutes to soften the sticker's vinyl
film and the adhesive.

▪ Still getting off no more than dime size shreds of vinyl film? You might
try to soften the sun-damaged film and its dried-out adhesive with
solvent.
▪ We like to use citrus-based cleaners like Goo Gone first-they're less
likely to damage paint. Use full-strength and let it soak in for a few
minutes. If it's hot, you may need to cover the area with a plastic bag
to keep the solvent from evaporating. More stubborn cases might
benefit from a lacquer thinner or another serious solvent. This may
also remove paint-test it on a hidden area first and don't tell us we
didn't warn you. Still stuck?
 ▪ Pinstripes come in two varieties: tape and painted. Tape stripes will
respond to any of the techniques we've already suggested. Another
method is to use the edge of a credit card (preferably one that's
expired or one of those unsolicited cards you get in the mail) to help
peel the stripes up. Leftover adhesive can be removed with solvents.

TIPS 3: Tape stripes can be peeled back with the edge of a credit card. Painted
stripes are tougher to deal with.

TIPS 4: A Stripe Off Wheel will remove the most stubborn vinyl films, but large areas
will take some time. Use a low speed drill.
1.1.5 Adjust tire pressure into standard pressure based on
manufacturer’s standards
On newer cars, the recommended tire pressure is most commonly listed on a
sticker inside the driver's door. If there's no sticker on the door, you can
usually find the specs in the owner's manual. Most passenger cars will
recommend 32 psi to 35 psi in the tires when they're cold.

How do I read the sidewall of my tire?

The side of a tire contains information needed for your safety and that of
your customer. Being able to read sidewall markings will help you to better
understand the performance of each tire. It will also provide you with
information when mounting and servicing the tire.

How much load/weight can my tire carry?

Never exceed the load-carrying limits moulded on the sidewall of the tires or the
maximum vehicle axle load limit as shown on the vehicle tire placard, whichever
is less. Overloading builds up excessive heat in the tire and could lead to failure.
What are zero pressure tires?
Zero pressure tires are designed to operate for a limited time with little or no air
pressure without causing damage to the tire casing. In order to realise the
zero pressure benefits, the tires must be mounted on proper wheels and the
wheels must be equipped with an operational

What guidelines should I follow when mixing tires on 4WD vehicles?

If no instructions for tire mixing appear in the vehicle owner’s manual,
adhere to the following guidelines:
• Do not mix sizes. All four tires must be branded with the same tire
size.
• Do not mix radial and non-radial tires. All four tires must be either
radial or non-radial.
• Ensure that the outside circumference of all four tires is within 2.5 cm
(one (1) inch) of each other.
• Do not mixes tread pattern types.
Check Tire Pressure
Use a tire pressure gauge to make sure your tires are properly inflated and
then fill your tires with air as needed.
To check your pressure:
• Remove the valve stem cap.

• Press the gauge head evenly onto the valve stem.

• Use firm pressure so that the hissing sound stops.

• Remove the gauge and read the pressure.
• Compare this to your vehicle’s recommended inflation pressure.
• Always check your tires while they are cold (after sitting for at
least 3 hours or before you’ve driven 1 mile at moderate
speed).
• Never bleed pressure from a hot tire.