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Active Learning Session On

Herbal Cosmetics : Fixed Oils used for Dry Skin Treatment, Skin Protecting
Agents and Anti-Aging Treatment
Subject – Herbal Drug Technology
Presented By : Ahilya Patil
Akshada Patil
Ankita Patil
Samiksha Patil
Samruddhi Patil
Shivam Patil

Under Guidance :
Mr : N. D. Patil
M. Pharma(Quality Assurance)
 Contents :
1. Fixed Oils used for Dry Skin Treatment :
1.1 Coconut oil
1.2 Sunflower oil
1.3 Jojoba oil
1.4 Olive oil
1.5 Castor oil
1.6 Cocoa Butter

2. Skin Protecting Agents : 2.1 Aloe 2.2 Oats

2.3 Golden Root 2.4 Carrot
2.5 Gingko 2.6 Turmeric
2.7 Ginseng 2.8 Vitamin C
2.9 Vitamin E
3. Anti-Aging Treatment :
1.1 Coconut oil :
• It is also called as copra oil.
• It is edible oil obtained from fruit or seed of the coconut palm tree Cocos nucifera,
family Arecaceae.
• Coconut oil is extracted by dry pressing of dried copra or by wet processing from
coconut milk.
• It can be used in both liquid and solid forms as its melting point is 24 to 25°C.
• Coconut oil contains 99% of saturated fat. Coconut oil mainly consists of lauric acid
(41.8%), myristic acid (16.7%), palmitic acid (8.6%), and caprylic acid (6.8%). It contains
6% Monounsaturated fats, 2% polyunsaturated fats and phytosterols.
• It is potent skin moisturizer and softener. It helps to prevent protein loss from the
1.2 Sunflower oil :
• It is the fixed oil expressed from sunflower seeds of plant Helianthusannuus, family
Asteraceae.
• The largest producers of sunflower oil are Ukraine and Russia as. Sunflower oil is
extracted using chemical solvents like hexane, or by crushing seeds or by cold-
pressing, means crushing the seeds under low-temperature conditions.
• It is light amber color with a mild flavour. Sunflower oil consists of Palmitic acid (5%),
Stearic acid (6%), Oleic acid (30%), Linoleic acid (59%), polyunsaturated fat,
monounsaturated fat, lecithin, tocopherols, carotenoids and waxes. It has soothing
properties.
• It is widely used in face and body care products.
1.3 Jojoba oil :
• Jojoba oil is extracted from the seeds of shrub Simmondsia chinenesis, family
Simmondsiaceae.
• The plant is native to southern Arizona, southern California, and northwestern Mexico.
At room temperature unrefined jojoba oil is clear golden liquid with a slightly nutty
odour while refined jojoba oil is colourless and odourless.
• The melting point of jojoba oil is about 10 °C. It consists of fatty acids such as stearic
acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, Behenic acid,
Erucic acid, Nervonic acid, Lignoceric acid, 11-Eicosenoic acid and arachidonic acid, and
triglycerides.
• It is used in cosmetics as a moisturizer and as solvent for exotic fragrances. It
functions like Human sebum.
• Jojoba oil acts as humecant, create a protective film over the skin, thus it
protects and moisturizes the skin and hair, replenishes skin and hair loss
and restores their natural pH balance.
• Jojoba oil is used in lotions, moisturizers, hair shampoos and
conditioners.
• The pure oil can be directly applied on skin, hair, or cuticles.
• It also has analgesic, antipyretic, antiinflammatory, antioxidant,
antibacterial
1.4 Olive oil :
• Olive oil is a fixed oil extracted from the fruits of Olea europaea, family Oleaceae.
• Olive plant mainly grows in Mediterranean basin. Spain, Italy and Greece are largest
producers of olive oil.
• Olive oil contains oleic acid (up to 83%), linoleic acid (up to 21%) and palmitic acid (up to
20%).
• It also contains Myristic acid, heptadecanoic acid and eicosanoic acid in traces. It also
consists of phyconstituents such as triolein, tripalmitin, trilinolein, tristearate,
monosterate, triarachidin, squalene, ẞ-sitosterol and tocopherol etc.
• It is good skin and hair conditioner and antioxidant.
• It is used to treat various skin problems such as contact dermatitis, atopic dermatitis,
xerosis, eczema rosacea, seborrhoea, psoriasis, thermal and radiation burns, skin
inflammation and aging etc.
• It is also used in treatment of UVB-induced skin tumours.
• Along with beeswax, it ac as cleanser, maisturizer and antibacterial agent.
• It is also popular for massaging infants and toddler.
1.5 Castor oil :
• This is obtained from the Castor seeds Ricinus communis of family Euphorbiaceae.
Castor plant is commonly observed in southeastern Mediterranear Basin, Eastern
Africa and India. Castor oil is viscous, colourless to very pale yellow liquic with a
distinct taste and odour with boiling point 313 °C.
• The main chemical constituen is ricinoleic acid. Other constituents include oleic acid,
palmitic acid, stearic acid, Linoleic acid: a-Linolenic acid, Dihydroxystearic acid. Water-
soluble toxin ricin is also present oil.
• The oil protects skin from against harsh climate, and has skin soothing effect. It
moisturizer and use to treat rough skin and acne. Hydrogenated castor oil or its esten
act as vehicles or carriers, emollients or solvent for toiletry, cosmetic, hair and skin
care formulations. It is potent skin cleanser and conditioner.
1.6 Cocoa butter :
• It is also known as theobroma oil which is yellow coloured fat obtainefrom
Theobroma cacao of family Sterculiceae.
• It is extracted from dried; fermented and roasted seeds separated from their hulls.
The cocoa nibs are ground to form chocolate liquor. Then to separate the cocoa
butter chocolate liquor is pressed. It melts at temperature 34-38 °C.
• It is rich in saturated fats and monounsaturated oleic acid (34.5%). Other constituents
are Arachidic acid 1.0%, Linoleic acid 3.2%, Palmitic acid 26.0%, Palmitoleic acid 0.3%,
Stearic acid 34.5%, and Other Fatty Acids 0.5%.
• It has soothing effect on windburn or sunburn. It acts as vehicle in suppositories and
pessaries Cocoa butter consists of oleic, stearic and palmitic acids. It is good emollient
and a natural antioxidant.
2. Skin Protecting Agents :
• Ultraviolet radiations are of 3 types UVA (320-400 nm), UVB (280-320 nm) and UVC
(200-280 nm). These radiations are responsible for skin cancer, immunosupression
and melanoma.
• Natural skin protective agents are sunscreen agents which can block UV-induced
sunburns.
• Sunscreens protect the skin from damaging effects of sun by improving body's
defense mechanism.
• The reactive oxygen species ROS and reactive nitrogen species (RNS) are generated
when skin is exposed to UV radiation. Various naturally occurring antioxidants,
flavonoids, carotenoids and phenolic acids fight against these free radicals and
protect the skin from damage.
2.1 Aloe :
• It is obtained from leaves of Aloe vera, Aloe barbadensis Miller family Liliaceae.
• Plant is fleshy, spiny-toothed leaves with red or yellow flowers.
• The mucilage obtained from inner part of leaf act as potent moisturizer, skin softener,
antioxidant and use to heal cuts, wounds and burns.
• Aloe contains various constituents such as amino acids like leucine, isoleucine, saponin
12 anthraquinone glycosides, proteins, carbohydrates, minerals, vitamins A,C,E,B,
choline, B12 and folic acid which can soothe, heal, moisturize and regenerate the skin.
Aloe gel consists of 99% water, glucomannans, amino acids, lipids, sterols and vitamins
etc. Aloe gel is useful to treat burns, sunburn and mild abrasion, and inflammation of
skin. It can act as antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, antioxidant and antihistaminic
agent.
• Aloe gel is useful to treat burns, sunburn and mild abrasion, and inflammation of skin.
It can act as antibacterial, antifungal, antiviral, antioxidant and antihistaminic agent.
• Aloe gel also act as a cleanser, anaesthetic, antiseptic, antipyretic, antipruritic,
nutrient and moisturizer and promote cell proliferation.
• Aloe sticks the epidermal cells together and softens the skin. It stimulates collagen
and elastin fibres synthesis hence exhibit antiageing properties.
• Aloe possesses wound healing effect by keeping the wound moist and allowing
oxygen to penetrate the wound, leading to regeneration of skin. Mucopolysacharides
present in aloe causes remodeling of the wound.
• Aloe also protects the skin against harmful effects of UV rays.
2.2 Oats :
• It is obtained from Avena sativa L of family Graminae.
• Main producers of oats are European union, Russia Canada, Poland and Australia.
• Oats are rich in protein, and other constituents include minerals, lipids, ẞ-glucan,
polysaccharide, fibers, avenanthramides, an indole alkaloid-gramine, flavonoids,
flavonolignans, triterpenoid saponins, sterols and tocols etc.
• Oats protect and repair the skin and hair from damaging effects of UVA or UVB
irradiation, pollution, smoke, bacteria, chemicals and free radicals etc.
• It is used in treatment of geriatric dermatosis, eczema and sunburn, irritation and
inflammation of the skin. Because of its soothing, moisturizing and an anti-irritating
properties it is used in preparation of facial masks, facial scrubs and soap-free skin
cleansers.
• Hydrolysed oat protein form protective film on skin and is used in formulation of
baby cleansing products.
• Its constituent Polysaccharide ẞ-glucan reduces signs of aging, protect skin against
UV damage, stimulate metabolic activity, collagen synthesis, and improve the tensile
strength of hair.
• Oat protein and ẞ-glucan moisturizes, soothe the skin and reduce redness due to
abrasion.
2.3 Golden Root :
• It is plant Rhodiola rosea of family Crassulaceae.
• It grows in cold regions of the world. It is also called as roseroot, Aaron's rod, arctic
root, king's crown etc.
• The roots of plant consists of phenols, rosavin, rosin, rosarin, organic acids,
terpenoids, phenolic acids and their derivatives, flavonoids, anthraquinones, alkaloids,
tyrosol, and salidroside.
• It also contains polyphenols such as proanthocyanidins, quercetin, gallic acid,
chlorogenic acid and kaempferol. It reduces fine lines and wrinkles hence acts as
antiaging agent.
• It protects the skin from environmental stress caused by extreme changes in
temperature and oxidative stress caused by sun exposure.
• Golden root stimulates the skin for oxygen consumption, boost vitality and
respiration in the cells.
• It possess wide therapeutic activities such as it increase physical endurance, work
productivity, longevity, resistance to high altitude sickness, and also used to treat
fatigue, depression, anemia, impotence, gastrointestinal ailments, infections, and
nervous system disorders etc. It acts as antioxidant and has antistress properties.
2.4 Carrot :
• It is obtained from the plant Daucus carota belonging to family Apiaceae.
• It is rich source of B-carotene, Vitamin A, B, C, E and K. and lesser amount of a-
carotene, y-carotene, lutein, and zeaxanthin. Polyacetylenes such as Falcarinol and
falcarindiol are observed in carrot.
• Other constituents such as pyrrolidine, 6-hydroxymellein, 6-methoxymellein, eugenin,
2,4,5-trimethoxybenzaldehyde (gazarin) or falcarindiol 3-acetate are also present in
carrot. Carrot seed oil possesses anti-aging, revitalizing rejuvenating properties and is
natural toner. Carrot keeps the skin healthy, removes scars and blemishes, prevents
wrinkles, and protects the skin against sun rays. As carrot is rich in potassium, it keeps
the skin'hydrated. It helps to treat pimples, acne, rashes, dermatitis and other skin
problem. It can be applied on wounds, cuts, and inflammation for quick healing.
2.5 Ginkgo :
• It is obtained from Ginkgo biloba belonging to family Ginkgoaceae.
• It consists of phenolic acids, proanthocyanidins, flavonoid glycosides; such as
myricetin, kaempferol, isorhamnetin and quercetin, and the terpene trilactones,
ginkgolides and bilobalides, ginkgo biflavones, alkylphenols and polypenols.
• It is rich in antioxidants so helps to reduce wrinkles and other signs of skin aging. It
can acts as natural sunscreen.
• It has anti-inflammatory and skin cleansing properties. As Gingko is rich in vitamin E, it
helps to combat skin problems like scars, stretch marks, acne, patchiness and pimples.
It keeps the skin healthy and fresh. It is used in various ailments such as poor blood
circulation, hypertension, and poor memory, and depression, male impotence. It is
potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. It is also used to reduce sunburns.
2.6 Turmeric :
• It is obtained from the underground stems of herb Curcuma longa of the family
Zingiberaceae.
• Turmeric contains curcumin, demethoxycurcumin, bisdemethoxy curcumin,
zingiberene, curcumol, curcumenol, eugenol, tetrahydrocurcumin, triethylcurcumin,
turmerin, turmerones and turmeronols.
• It is used as antiseptic analgesic, anti-inflammatory; antioxidant, antimalarial, insect-
repellant, natural colourant etc. It inhibits activity of phosphorylase kinase, hence is
used for prevention, treatment or control of psoriasis, acne, wounds, burns, ulcers,
eczema, sun damage to the skin and premature aging.
2.7 Ginseng :
• It consists of roots of various species of Ginseng such as Panax ginseng (Korean
ginseng), P. notoginseng (South China ginseng) and P. quinquefolius (American
ginseng) of family Araliaceae.
• Phytoconstituents present in Ginseng are saponins, ginseng oils and phytosterol,
carbohydrates and sugars, organic acids, nitrogenous substances, amino acids and
peptides, vitamins and minerals, and enzymes. It has 13 saponins called
asginsenosides. Ginseng activates the skin's metabolism, reduces keratinization and
wrinkles and enhances skin fairness. It moisturizes skin; enhance skin nutrition,
increases blood circulation and cell proliferation. It has skin lightening and brightening
property. It also possesses free radical scavenging activity, keeps the skin firm and
inhibits lipoperoxidation. Hence, it acts as anti-ageing agent.
2.8 Vitamin C :
• Vitamin C stimulates collagen repair and stimulates collagen gene expression.
• Proline and lysine hydroxylases stabilizes the collagen molecule tertiary structure.
Vitamin C acts as cofactor for these enzymes.
• Vitamin C protects the skin from environmental pollutants and ultraviolet radiations.
• It avoids photo-aging effects on skin.
• It decreases melanogenesis hence avoids conditions such as melisma or age spots.
Vitamin C enhances the production of lipid barrier, formation of stratum corneum,
induces differentiation of keratinocytes thereby avoids water loss.
• It is helpful in inflammatory skin conditions.
2.9 Vitamin E :
• Vitamin E is fat soluble vitamin mainly present in nuts, spinach, whole grains, olive oil
and sunflower oil etc.
• There are eight types of vitamin E mainly α-, β-, γ- and σ-50 tocopherols and related
corresponding tocotrienols.
• It scavenges lipid peroxyl radicals, arrests chain propagation and lipid peroxidation,
hence protecting the cell membrane from destruction. It protects the skin from UVB
radiations and also decreases melanin production.