Introduction to Weaving and Woven
Fabrics
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Session 1 Learning Outcomes
• What are Fabrics
• How woven they are produced
• Process Flow of Woven Fabric Manufacturing
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Textile Fabrics
Fibers alone or in the form of yarns are combined to make a planar
structure called fabric.
Woven
Non-Woven Fabric
Knitted Fabric
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Fabric
Braided
Knitted Fabric
d Fabric
Nonwoven
Fabric
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Weaving WEAVING
Wefts/Fillings/Pick
s
Warps/Ends 5
Woven Fabrics
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Woven Fabric Construction
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Flow Process of Weaving
Yarn
Warp preparation Weft Preparation
Raw Material • Warping • Re-winding (Pirn/Quill
• Sizing Winding)
(Spun/Filament Yarn)
• Looming (Drawing-in/ Tying-
in)
Inspection
• Packing
• Dispatching Weaving
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WARPING
• It is process of getting yarn sheet on warp
beams from cones from spinning.
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Warp Preparation
• Warping:
– Process of collecting yarns on beams is called warping.
– Required number of warps of required length are
collected on one or more warp beams.
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Warp Preparation
• Warping:
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SIZING
• It is the process of getting required number of
threads in warp sheet & to cover their surface
to withstand friction during weaving.
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Warp Preparation
• Sizing:
Process of applying chemical for required characteristics
like strength, pliability, and smoothness of warp yarn is
called sizing.
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Drawing-in
• Yarns are passed through drop
wires, healed wires and the reed
dent.
• Yarns are threaded either
manually or by using
automatic Drawing-in machines.
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Knotting (Tying-in)
oTying-in of the new warp ends to the depleted
warp, when a mass production is required.
oEnds of old warp beam are cut and tied to the
ends of new warp beam correspondingly
oWarp ends are then pulled through the droppers,
heald wires, and reed until knots are cleared.
oSpeed of knotting m/c is from 60 – 600 knots per
minute.
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Drawing-in/Tying-in
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WEAVING
• It is the process of making fabric by
interlacement of warp & weft on loom.
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Weaving
• The process of inserting weft into warp and
producing fabric is called weaving.
• Weaving process constitutes of the following
motions:
– Shedding
– Picking
– Beating-up
– Warp let off and Fabric take-up
– Yarns Break Detection
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Weaving: Shedding Systems
• The process of inserting weft into warp and
producing fabric is called weaving.
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Weaving: Weft Insertion Systems
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Weaving: Weft Insertion Systems
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Weft Preparation
• For shuttle weaving the yarn is wounded on special small
yarn packages called Pirns or Quills.
• That is the only preparation required for weft in shuttle
weaving, shuttle-less weaving does not require weft
preparations.
.
Shuttle and Pirn
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Weaving Animation
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WEAVING INSPECTION
• Inspection of fabric is done on basis of 4 Point
system( American system).
• Max. 4 penalty points can be given to one fault.
• If points/ 100 Sq.Yrd are less than 20 fabric will be A-
Grade.
• After Inspection, Packing is done as per requirement
of customer in the form of bales or rolls.
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BASIC DESIGN REPRESENTATION
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Basic Weaves
Type of
Weaves
Plain Twill Satin
Basket/Matt Warp Face
Rib Weft Face
Even Twill
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Representing Basic Weave
Wefts/Fillings/Picks
Wefts/Fillings/Picks
Warps/Ends
Warps/Ends
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Basic Weaves
Plain Twill Satin
Weft Rib
Basket Warp Rib
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Characteristics of Plain Fabrics
Characteristics Examples
Interlacing • Batiste,
Name • Most interlacing.
Type Balanced or
Gingham,
Broadcloth,
• Plain • Each warp with unbalanced.
Crash, Cretonne,
each weft Wrinkles, Ravels,
Print cloth,
Less absorbent
Glazed chintz
Gingham Broadcloth
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Characteristics of Basket Fabrics
Characteristics
Interlacing
• Looks balanced, Examples
Name Type fewer interlacing
• Oxford, Monk’s
• Each group of than plain
• Basket / Matt Cloth, Duck,
warp with each weave. Looks
Sailcloth
group of weft flat, wrinkles and
revels more.
Oxford Duck
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Characteristics of Twill Fabrics
Interlacing Type
Characteristics
•Design shift up or down
on each next warp or •Diagonal lines or Examples
Name group of warps Wales, Fewer
interlacing than plain •Serge, Surah, Denim,
•Twill 2/2 3/1 •Warp yarns float over weave. Wrinkles, ravel Gabardine,
two or more filling more. More pliable Herringbone, Flannel
yarns in a regular than plain weave. High
progressing of one to counts possible
the right or left.
Flannel Gabardine Herringbone
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Characteristics of Satin Fabrics
Characteristics
Interlacing Type • Flat and lustrous
• Warp yarns float surface. High
Examples
Name over four or more counts possible. • Satin, Sateen
• Satin 4/1, 1/4 filling yarns in a Fewer interlacing. Antique satin,
progression of two Long floats may Peau de Soie.
to the right or left. slip and snag.
Ravels.
Satin
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