5/6/2024

Scouring
MH Tomal
DoWPE
Bangladesh University of Textiles(BUTEX)

Lecture Content
• Definition • Cotton
• Wool
• Objectives • Silk
• Impurities of Fibers • Polyester cotton blend

• Impurities distribution • Scouring machineries

• General Mechanism • Bio scouring
• Classification of scouring • Estimation of scouring
• Describe the scouring • Souring
process of fibers

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Scouring
Definition:
The process by which all natural and added impurities such as oil, wax, fat, hand
dust etc. are removed from the fibers to produce highly hydrophilic and clean textile
material can be defined as Scouring. It is one of the vital processes of wet
processing.
Objects of Scouring:
• To make the fabric highly hydrophilic.
• To remove impurities such as oils, waxes, gum, husks as nearly as possible.
• To increase absorbency of fabric or textile materials without physical and
chemical damage.
• To produce a clean material by adding alkali.
• To make the fabric ready for next process.
• To remove non-cellulosic substance in case of cotton.

Impurities of Fibers
Cotton fibers:
Most of the impurities in cotton are concentrated in the primary cell wall.
Several types of impurities are present in cotton fibers
• Proteins Constituent Composition of fibre
Typical
• Nitrogenous compounds Low (%) High (%)
• Present in primary cell wall and lumen (%)
Cellulose 94.0 88.0 96.0
• Yellow colour of cotton is due to presence
Protein 1.3 1.1 1.9
of proteins and some coloring matter.
Pectic matter 0.9 0.7 1.2
• Pectin Wax 0.6 0.4 1.0
• Derivatives of pectic acid Mineral matter 1.2 0.7 1.6
• Found in the cover of citrus fruits Organic acids 0.8 0.5 1.0
• Polymer of high molecular weight
• Pectin is a polysaccharide that acts as a cementing material in the cell
walls of all plant tissues. It is a polymer of α-Galacturonic acid with a
variable number of methyl ester groups.

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Impurities of Fibers
Fat, Oil, Wax:
The wax present in the primary cell wall of cotton protects the fibre from
environmental agencies, is responsible for the smooth handle and is a source of
hydrophobicity. In the presence of wax, cotton has poor wettability. The wax
consists of long chains of fatty alcohols, fatty acids, their esters, cholesterol &
hydrocarbons.
• Components of fats and waxes
• Fatty acids
• Stearic acid
• Palmitic acid
• Oleic acid
• Fatty alcohols
• Gossipyl alcohol (C30H61OH)
• Cetyl alcohol (C26H53OH)
• Montanyl alcohol (C28H57OH)

Impurities of Fibers

Mineral Matters:
Mineral matter (Ash) consists mainly of alkaline earth compounds and
potassium and phosphate ions. The mineral matter may be water soluble or may
be removed by treatment with dilute mineral acids (demineralization/souring).
Composition of mineral matter on a fibre depends on soil composition.

Coloring Matter
Colored pigments present are
• penta hydroxy flavone (Morrin) (gossypetin)
• Hexa hydroxy flavone

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Impurities of Fibers
Wool Fibers:
• Wool wax (Fat):Easily saponifiable and emulsifiable hydrophobic impurity It consists of:
• Esters
• Diesters
• Hydroxy esters of high M. Wt
• Suint :It is the perspiration of sheep and is generally water soluble/insoluble
• Sand and dirt :Particulate type of impurity which sheep picks up during its movement
• Vegetable matter :Parts of dried leaves and some sticky seeds of certain plants. These are
primarily cellulosic in nature
Silk Fibers:
The major impurity in a silk fibre is sericin. Both Fibroin, which form the actual silk fibre and the
sericin are proteins. Hence some of the approaches for removal of sericin may result in some damage
to silk (fibroin) also.

Impurities of Fibers

Added impurities
• Spinning oil,
• Knitting oil,
• Needle oil,
• Sizing agent,
• Waxing agent,
• Rust,
• Dust, etc...

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Impurities Distribution of fibers

There are following possibilities of impurity distribution:
1. The proteins, pectins and waxes may be present as distinct layers in the cuticle.
2. They may exist as a matrix of pectins and proteins covered by a micropours thin layer
of waxes.
The general understanding of distribution of impurities is as follows: In the
primary cell wall, the impurities are distributed like a network in a binding
matrix of pectins. Any approach for the removal of these impurities will have
to take into account the possible distribution of impurities in the fibre.

Classification of Scouring system

There are basically three scouring systems for cotton:
1. Conventional system
• Most widely used system. It consists of an alkali and a combination of surfactants.
Alkali(NaOH), Wetting Agents, Emulsifiers(surfactants). This system removes almost all
the impurities except motes. It is a high temperature, high alkalinity, chemical and
energy intensive process
2. Solvent based :
• Solvent based systems rely on their solvating power to remove wax by dissolving it. This
system removes only hydrophobic impurities and not others. It’s a low temperature, low
energy process
• Two types of solvents may be used
• Chlorine Based :CCl4, PERC (Perchloroethylene), Trichloroethylene.
• Hydrocarbon :Benzene, White Spirit,
3. Enzyme based
• There have been attempts to remove impurities from cotton by the use of enzymes like
pectinase,cutinase. It uses mild temperature and pH.

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Mechanism of Scouring
Scouring mechanism involves the following processes:
In a nutshell we have to convert all the impurities into water soluble state.
Following are the steps of making the impurities into water soluble.
1. Saponification
2. Solubilization
3. Emulsification
4. Detergency action

Mechanism of Scouring
• Saponification:
The alkaline hydrolysis of the fatty acid esters can be defined as Saponification. The
chemical reaction between any fat and sodium hydroxide is a saponification reaction.
During Scouring the saponifiable fat oil waxes are hydrolyzed in presence
of alkali & removed from the fiber. The soap which is produced, also
enhanced the scouring process.

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Mechanism of Scouring
• Solubilization:
NaOH swells some of the impurities and make them water soluble.
1. Proteins are hydrolysed to soluble degradation products in presence of
alkali
2. Some amino compounds are also hydrolyzed to ammonia by alkali
3. Pectin & pectose are converted into water soluble salts of
pectic/metapectic acid by alkali
4. Motes (cellulose of low crystallinity) swell in alkali & became sodium
cellulosate which is water soluble. Residual motes are destroyed in
bleaching
5. Minerals & heavy metals are either dissolves in water or removed by
souring( treatment with acid) or sequestering agent.

Mechanism of Scouring
Emulsification: • Non-saponifiable mineral oils and
waxes which are esters of higher fatty
• An emulsion is a heterogeneous system, alcohols and fatty acids (natural and
consisting of at least one immiscible added) can be removed by emulsifying
liquid intimately dispersed in another in them with a surfactant (emulsifying
the form of droplets, whose diameter, in agent). The function of an emulsifier is
general, exceeds 0.1 μm. Such systems
• To join together oily and aqueous phases of
possess a minimal stability, which may an emulsion in a homogeneous and stable
be accentuated by additives such as state.
surface-active agents, finely divided • They concentrate at and are adsorbed onto
solids, etc. the oil: water interface to provide a
protective barrier around the dispersed
droplets.

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Mechanism of Scouring
• Detergency Action:
The remaining impurities such as some size chemicals and other
dust and dirt particles, stains, are removed by the action of
detergent.

N.B. We need to carefully select the detergent(Surface active agent) which will act both as
detergent & Emulsifying agent & optimum HLB value is 13 to 13.5.

Describe the scouring Process of

Fibers
Step: 01: Introduction Step 04: Process description
Fiber impurities and main working procedure
chemicals necessary for impurities
removal
Step 05: Process curve
As per process description
Step 02: Typical recipe
fiber to fiber varies
Step 06: Precaution if any
any special attention if any
Step 03: Machine used
Only name

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Scouring of cotton fabric

The natural impurities of cellulosic fibers are normally removed (scoured)by boiling off in a strong
alkaline solution. The natural impurities such as mineral matters,oils,waxes,ashes hinder the
penetration of dyes and chemicals to the interior of fibers; results the huge wastage of dyes and
chemicals and improper scouring creates the uneven dyeing. Alkali(caustic& soda ash)treatment
with auxiliaries at high temperature removes the inherent nd added impurities from cotton and
other cellulosic fibers such as hemp, ramie, kenaf, Linen, jute. Although all of cellulosic fibers
treatments are similar but the concentration of alkali and process parameter should be adjusted
according to composing amount and structure of impurities. Due to removal of these impurities the
goods become more absorbent.
Typical Recipe:
• Wetting agent = 0.5-1.0g/l
• Detergent = 1.0- 2.0 g/l
• Sequestering agent = 1.0-3.0g/l
• Caustic soda(36OBe) = 2.0-4.0g
• Temperature = 95o-1000C
• Time = 30-45 min
• PH = 10.5-11
• M:L ratio = 1:10

Scouring of Cotton Fabrics

Machines used:
kier boiler or j box( continuous) or modern dyeing machine
Working Procedure:
1. Prepare the chemicals according to the recipe.
2. Set the bath with substrate(fabric) at room temperature with wetting
agent, sequestering agent and detergent
3. Add alkalis and raise the temperature to 950-1000C @ 2-3c/minute
temp gradient.
4. Run the bath for 30- 45 minutes.
5. Cool down the bath temperature to 700 - 800C and drop.
6. Rinse twice with hot(around700C)and cold water.
7. Neutralize with acetic acid treatment or carry out next processes.

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Scouring of cotton fabric

Process curve:

Note:
Milder scouring in a soda ash alkaline bath will be sufficient for knits or blends with synthetic fibres.
Here should mention that after scouring the materials will be rinsed at 80-90oC,[Link] the melting
point of waxes. This prevents the dispersed waxes from becoming redeposited on the goods at
excessively low temperature, which causes noticeable devastation of the subsequent dyeing

Scouring of jute fabrics

Jute has a very good resistance to alkalis but easily attacked by hot dilute or cold concentrated mineral
acids. It is not so rich for cellulose &has a lot of natural impurities. Attaining full scouring is difficult
due to large amount of unexpected substances which can decay or weaken the fibers. Thus, jute
scouring is done with alkali treatment. To remove the added and inherent impurities from jute fiber, it
is treated with the following recipe.
Typical Recipe:
Wetting agent(TRO) =1.0-2 g/l
Detergent =0.5- 1.0 g/l
Sequestering agent = 1.0-2.0 g/l
Caustic soda =0.5- 1.0 g/l
Soda ash =3.0-5.0 g/I
Temperature =90-950C
Time =45-60 min
PH =10.5-11.5
M:L =1:10- 1:20
Rest of the process:
Same as cotton

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Scouring of wool fabrics

Raw wool contains a variety of different natural impurities- wool wax(18%), suint(10%), water(12%),
and vegetable and mineral debris(15%). Since the wool fibers are affected by strong alkali so it is treated
with mild alkaline condition at a suitable temperature. If wool is treated with strong alkaline solution
especially at higher temperatures, it readily dissolves. In fact, 3% solution of sodium hydroxide will
completely dissolve wool at boiling temperature. Alkalis do not impair the mechanical properties of
wool, but causes yellowing, the degree of changes depending on the time of treatment, temperature and
the concentration of alkali solution.
Typical Recipe:
• Wetting agent = 0.5- 1.0 g/I
• Detergent = 1.0- 2.0 g/l
• Soda ash = 0.5- 1.0 g/I
• Ammonia = 1.0-3.0 g/I
• Temperature = 40-450C
• Time = 15- 30 min
• PH = 9-10
• M:L = 1:10
Rest of the process:
Same as cotton

Degumming/Scouring of silk fabrics

A major undesirable constituent part of silk is 'silkgum 'or'sericin’ about 25% of total mass.
Besides this it has some other natural impurities that can hinder the treatment of this fiber.
Therefore, it needs to remove these impurities before bleaching and coloration. The process
involved to remove these impurities is called 'degumming’ or’ scouring’ of silk.
Typical Recipe:
• Wetting agent =0.5-1.0g/l
• Sequestering agent =1.0-2.0g/I
• Anti foaming agent = 0.5 - 1.0g/I
• Natural soap = 15.0- 30.0 gm/l
• TSP/Soda ash = 1.0- 3.0gm/l
• Detergent =1.0-3.0gm/l(not mandatory if use soap)
• Temperature = 90- 95 0c
• Time =90- 120 min
• PH = 9.5-10.5
• M:L =1:10
Rest of the process:
Same as cotton

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Scouring of polyester/cotton blend

fabrics
Polyester and cotton are two different fibers obtained from natural source and made of synthetically
consecutively. Because of varying physical(length, diameter, strength, elasticity, torsional rigidity, frictional
properties) and chemical properties(thermal properties, density, resistance to chemical agents) of these two
fibers have led to treat this blend within proper conditions. Cotton has very good resistance to alkali but the
action of aqueous alkali may lead an adverse impact on polyester. It should not be pressure kier boiled in the
presence of alkali, as these conditions favor an accelerated attack on the fiber. The resistance of 'Terylene’ fiber to
alkalis is fully satisfactory for the purpose of a textile fiber. Thus, in the case of polyester/cotton blends scouring,
the alkali sensitivity should consider during treatment.
Typical Recipe:
• Wetting agent = 0.5 - 1.0g/l
• Sequestering agent = 1.0-2.0g/I
• Detergent = 1.0- 2.0g/I
• Caustic soda360Be = 1.0- 3.0g/I
• Soda ash = 1.0-4.0g/I
• Temperature = 90-1000C
• Time =30-60 min
• pH =10.5+0.5
• M :L = 1:10
Rest of the process:
Same as cotton

Forms of Scouring
Yarn Scouring Fabric Scouring
• Open width form
• Hank Scouring • Jigger
• Package Scouring • Pad batch etc
• Continuous sheet warp form • Rope form
• Kier
• Washer
• Modern dyeing machine

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Scouring Machineries
Scouring can be carried out in batch, semi continuous and continuous processes.
Batch process:
The non-continuous process consists essentially of circulating hot alkali liquor through the cloth in a vessel called kier.
• Low/High pressure vertical kier (Rope form)
• Low/High pressure horizontal kier(Rope form)
• Jigger machine (open width form)
• Modern dyeing machine(i.e. Winch, jet)
Semi continuous process:
• Pad-roll system
• Pad-steam-roll system
• Pad-roll on perforated cylinder
Continuous Process:
The continuous process is based on the impregnation of the fabric in an alkali solution followed by steam
ageing stage, the fabric being either in rope form or open width form.
• J-Box
• Open width roller steamer
• Vapor loc system
• Roller bed steamer with pre-swelling zone

Kier Boiler
Kier Boiler is a cylindrical long,
mild steel or a cast-iron container
fitted with two tubular perforations
(disc with several holes). One of
them is on the ground, and one is on
the top. These disks are linked to the
upper compartment with a number
of tunes which bring the liquor.
Steam is carried through the center
of the bay. Thus, the liquor pipes are
surrounded by steam that heats
them.

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J-Box
• In the Continuous process, J-Box machine is used. It is called J-Box
machine because the scouring vessel looks like the English letter ‘J’. The
J-box is mainly a steel chute with big capacity fabrics.
• The Continuous Souring process can be separated into four parts of
J-Box:

1. Saturation.
2. Pre-heater.
3. J-Box.
4. Washing unit.

Scouring process in J-Box

Saturation:
Saturation liquor is prepared according to recipe without caustic soda in the saturator. Then the
wet fabric is passed through the guide roller and immersed into the solution by immersion
roller. The fabric is saturated either by open width or in rope form. Here temperature is kept
70˚C – 80˚C for about 40-90 sec then the fabric squeezed and passed to the pre heater.
Pre heater:
• In pre heater, material is passed into the thermostatic controlled system at temperature
110˚C – 120˚C for 30 s and passed to the J- box by drawing roller.
J-box:
• The fabric brought in J- box after pre heater. In j-box, solution of caustic soda are kept and
fabric is stored in this solution for about 30 min, here temperature 100˚C. In j-box, NaOH,
reacted with the impurities present in the fabric and finally [Link] J-Box generally 12000-
15000 lbs fabric can be scoured after J- box the fabric is squeezed and passed to the washing
unit.
• Washing unit:
• The water soluble impurities or products that are left on the materials are removed here. First
the materials are washed in hot water then cold water and finally dried.

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Solvent Scouring Process

• There are commercial processes where textiles are cleaned with organic solvents. Fabrics
processed this way are said to be "Dry Cleaned". Although not widely used as a fabric
preparation step, it is an important way of removing certain difficult to remove
impurities, where a small amount of residuals can cause downstream problems. Garment
dry- cleaning is more prevalent.

• For fabrics that do not have to be desized, solvent scouring is an effective way of
removing fiber producer finishes, coning and knitting oils. Knitted fabrics made from
nylon, polyester, acetate and acrylics, are particularly amenable to this method of
preparation. Wool grease is effectively removed by solvent scouring. Solvent

• Extractions are particularly useful in the laboratory for determining the amount of
processing oils added to man-made fibers and the residual amounts of oils and waxes left
by aqueous scouring. Properly controlled, fabrics can be produced with very little residual
matter.

Blends
• Scouring fabrics with a blend of fibers requires consideration of the
sensitivities of each fiber to scouring chemicals and to process
conditions. Sensitivities to consider when scouring blends are:
Cotton Resistant to strong alkali. Degraded by acid.
Rayon Sensitive to alkali. May be dissolved by hot alkali.
Wool Degraded by alkali.
Acetate Hydrolyzed by alkali.
Polyester Hydrolyses under extreme conditions of alkali and
heat.

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Synthetic Scouring
• Synthetic fibers generally do not contain naturally occurring
impurities like natural fibers. However spin finishes, knitting
weaving oils, antistatic agents are added to improve physical as
well as mechanical properties. Other are dirt etc.
• For polyester weak and low concentration of alkalis are used at
low temperature.
• Special precaution is necessary when polyester is scoured with
strong alkali at higher temperatures and care has to be taken
not to hydrolyze the fiber.
• Nylons are scoured with mild alkali and detergents. Generally
non-ionic detergents are used in scouring of nylons.

Bio Scouring
Enzymatic Scouring or Bio-Scouring can simply be defined as the process of
applying enzymes and their components to remove the natural and added
impurities from the fibre.
• At present, pectinases have been found to be most effective enzymes in imparting
absorbency to cotton. It must be realized that pectinases attack only pectic matter
and not the wax, when then the absorbency is obtained. It only means that the
impurities are dispersed in a matrix form. When the binding matter pectin is
destroyed, other impurities are also detached.
Mechanism of bio scouring (pectinase)
• Pectinases penetrate the cotton cuticle through cracks or micro pores and make
contact with the pectic substances in the cuticular layer of impurities
• Pectic substances are hydrolyzed with the aid of pectinases which result in the
complete or partial removal of the cuticle or the breakdown of the continuity of the
cuticle
• As a result of the hydrolysis of the pectin, the link between the cuticle and the
cellulose body breaks, leaving fibre in an absorbent form.

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Bio Scouring
Recipe for Bio scouring:
• Enzymatic scouring can be carried out by the following recipe-
• Enzyme : 3 g/L or 0.5%
• Sequestering agent : 1 g/L
• Wetting agent : 2 g/L
• Emulsifier : 0.5-1.5 g/l
• Temperature : 60oC
• Time : 30 min
• M: L : 1:10
• PH : 6-9

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Bio Scouring
Advantages of bio-scouring
• (BOD) and (COD) of enzymatic scouring process are 50 % as compared to alkaline
scouring (100 %). Total Dissolved Solid (TDS) of enzymatic scouring process is 50% as
compared to alkaline scouring (100%).
• Handle is very soft in enzymatic scouring.
• It also minimizes health risks of operators as they are not exposed to hazardous chemicals.
• Reduced water and wastewater costs, reduced treatment time and lower energy
consumption because of lower treatment temperature (the optimal temperature is from 40
to 60°C) .
Limitation of Bio scouring process
• The enzymes used for scouring are costly and they require temperature for their action.
• The increase in temperature or pH may deactivate the enzyme which may alter the process
efficiency.

Estimation of Scouring
The estimation of scouring efficiency can take place in different ways
1. Absorbency test
1. Sinking time test (AATCC Test Method 17-1994).
2. Drop test/ Spot test
3. Evaluation of rewetting agents. (AATCC Test Method 27-1994)
2. Measurement of
1. Weight loss
2. Protein content
3. Residual wax content
4. Methylene blue absorption(removal of pectic substances)
3. Degradation of cellulose by various test
1. Copper number, a measure of the reducing groups present in cellulose.
2. Carboxyl group content.
3. Cuprammonium fluidity, which is a measure of molecular chain length of
cellulose.
4. Tensile strength of the cotton material before and after scouring.

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Estimation of Scouring
Sinking Time Test:
Preparation:
• A 5.00 g (91.4 cm in length approx.) skein of yarn is folded 2 times to form a
loop of 45.7 cm around.
• A copper/ ss hook (A)(3 g), a linen thread (B), a sinker (C, a flat, cylindrical,
lead slug weighing 40 g) and a 500 ml measuring cylinder is taken.

Procedure:
• The hook with its anchor is fastened at one end of the folded skein and the
skein is cut at the opposite end.
• The skein is held in one hand with the anchor dangling into the wetting
solution contained in the 500 mL measuring cylinder.
• A stopwatch held in the other hand is started just as the skein of yarn is
released into the solution. At first the yarn is able to float and after some time
it will starts to sink to the bottom of the cylinder. When the skein of yarn will
become relaxed and the hook touch the bottom, the stopwatch will be stopped.
• Low sinking time indicates rapid wetting because of good scouring. The test
may be used for evaluating performance of wetting agents. Sinking time test
can also be carried out on the fabric cutting it into a specific small size and
dropping the same on the surface of water loosely without putting any thrust.

Estimation of Scouring
Immersion Test:
• After scouring absorbency of fabric is increased significantly. So, a scoured sample will take less time to be immersed
into water than an unscoured sample. A predetermined sample (1cm×1cm) sized is put gently on the surface of fresh
water. Then the time in second is recorded by a stop watch for submerge the sample into water.
• If the fabric floats on the water then the fabric is unscoured
• If the fabric immersed within 5 sec then the fabric is scoured well.

Drop Test / Spot test/ Quick test

• In this method, a 0.1% direct (Congo-red) solution is used. A drop of the solution is taken by a pipette or dropper or glass
rod and put softly on to the sample surface from approximately 1- 2 inch above. The nature of the absorption is observed
carefully.
• If dye drop is absorbed within 1 second, then the scouring is of standard level
• If dye drop is absorbed within 0.5 – 0.8 second, then the scouring is of good level.
• If it takes more than 1 s then scouring is not good.
• The size of droplets is observed

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Estimation of Scouring
Column test / wicking Test
• 18cm x 5 cm sample is cut from scoured sample. In a beaker 1% direct dye red color is
taken. After that a marker is drawn at 1cm above from the sample bottom. Now the
sample is hung from a wood stick & placed in such a way that 1 cm portion of fabric is
immersed in the dye liquor. Then we measured the point up to which the colored solution
is absorbed straight above way within 5 min time in the sample.
Observation:
• If the absorption rise up as high as 30 mm then it may be said that the fabric has good
scouring
• If the absorption rise up as high as 50 mm then it may be said that the fabric has excellent
scouring.
• If the absorption rise up is less than 30 mm then it may be said that the fabric has poor
scouring

Determination of Weight Loss:

• Standard weight loss is 4 – 8%
• If weight loss is less than 4%, it can be said that scouring was not well
• If weight loss is above 8% then it can be said that fabric damage has occurred

Souring
• The treatment by which the fabric (after processing with alkali or scouring) is
treated with Acetic Acid, Hydrochloric acid or dilute H2SO4 for removing
alkali or neutralization of alkali is called souring

Scouring Souring

1. Not to remove any

1. To remove oil, waxes gum
impurities, only for alkali
soluble impurities.
neutralization.

2. Scouring is done in alkali 2. Souring is done dilute

solution. HCl or H2SO4
3. Required heat to boiling. 3. No need of heat.

4. Need of definite time. 4. No need of definite time.

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