Sewing Room

Sewing is the dominant process in garment assembly. It is an

assembling process of cut panels/ components as per style of a
product.
The input of a sewing room is cut panels and trims.
Output is a sewn garment.
 Basic Operations in Sewing Room
• Operational jobs &
• Analytical jobs
 Operational jobs include

• Training
• Floor (sewing)
• Heat seal
• Manpower status checking
• Special m/c balancing
• Skilled manpower inventory checking
• Peak target setting
• For next day style checking
• M/C layout
• Cut panel arranging, accessories and trimmings collection
• Work place organize
• Direct time study
• Operator balance
 Analytical jobs include

• Thread consumption
• SMV calculation
• General Technical Meeting supported by each concerned
personnel of different sections
• Communicate with the concerned dept. regarding problems and
solutions
 Operation Breakdown
The method of preparing operations' list in a sequence is called as operation
breakdown.

Following are the operation breakdown of t-shirt:

1. Shoulder join
2. Neck join
3. Rib tack
[Link] label join
5. Neck tape join
6. Neck topstitch
[Link] Hem
[Link] join (Armhole join)
[Link] seam join(Body+Sleeve)
[Link] hem
 Machines required

• Over lock m/c

• Flat lock m/c
• Multithread chain stitch m/c
• Plain m/c
 Target setting


•
 Target setting
•





Standard Minute Value (SMV)




SMV is defined as the time which is allowed to perform a job
satisfactorily. Normally it is expressed in minute value. The full
elaboration of SMV is Standard Minute Value. SMV term is
broadly used in the garments manufacturing industry. SMV is also
known as Standard Allocated Minute (SAM).
SMV= Basic time + Basic time *Allowance
Where,
Basic time= Cycle time X Rating
Allowance= Relaxation allowance + Contingency allowance + Machine
Delay Allowance.
Rating= the pace or speed of operation at which the operator is performing
the job.
Observed time can be found by the time necessary to complete an operation.
This observed time calculated by stop watch. Ratting is an evaluation of
efficiency. This ratting is done by the operator who is performing the job. It
can be measured by an observer who experienced in specific job which is
being observed. Generally standard SMS of T-shirt is 3-6 min.
 Allowance

• Allowance 15%
 Line Layout Preparation

• Step-1: List down Operation breakdown of that style

• Step-2: List down machine requirement
• Step-3: Calculate SMV of each operation
• Step-4: Calculate basic pitch time
• Step-5: Calculate manning level
• Step-6: Prepare layout
 Machine requirement
Generally an operation bulletin includes one column for calculated machine
requirement and another column for actual machine requirement. Calculated
machine requirement , which mostly come in fraction. But in practical you
can’t assign fraction for a machine. Secondly you have to allocate correct
number of machines to get output asper hourly target. Where work content is
high , you plan for more than one machine for the same operation. When you
need to add one machine more and share work with other operation (machine)
depends on work content and it is decided by Upper and lower control limits.
 Basic Pitch Time Calculation

• Basic pitch time(BPT)= SMV / No. of workstation

Or Basic pitch time(BPT)= total basic minutes of a gmt / no of
operations

• Total Basic minutes= sum of basic minutes of each operation or

total basic minutes =SMV(1-allowance%)
 Calculation of manning level

• Manning level= Basic time or SMV of specific operation/BPT

Cycle Time
 BPT

• BPT=Total SMV/ Total workstation

=523/18=29.05s
 Manning Level
• Back-front positioning=9/29.05=.309
• Shoulder join=50/29.05=1.69
• Shoulder fabric cut + neck rib make=(14+16)/29.05=1.01
• Neck rib join+ extra rib cut=(16+13)/29.05=.998
• Neck rib closing=18/29.05=.619
• Neck tape binding=14/29.05=.481
• Size label attach=15/29.05=.508
• Sleeve tuck=39.5/29.05=1.35
• Sleeve join=83/29.05=2.85
• Sleeve hem=25/29.05=.86
• Care label attach=18/29.05=.619
• Side seam=58/29.05=1.99
• Bottom hem=16.5/29.05=.567
• Bottom hem tuck=26/29.05=.89
• Loop join =38/29.05=1.30
• Thread cut=54/29.05=1.85
Production

After setting m/c layout, production is started. During production

different types of problem arise and bottleneck is one of the
major problem.
A garments sector is a production sector and the bottleneck used
here as obstruction of normal production.
 Bottleneck

The lowest output point in a production line is called Bottleneck. That

is bottleneck area, where supply gathered and production goes under
capacity.
A bottleneck is a point of congestion in a production system that occurs when
workloads arrive too quickly for the production process to handle. The inefficiencies
brought about by the bottleneck often create delays and higher production costs.
The term "bottleneck" refers to the shape of a bottle, and the fact that the bottle's
neck is the narrowest point, which is most likely place for congestion to occur,
slowing down the flow of liquid from the bottle.
Bottleneck can be removed by removing idle m/c or replacing
m/c or experienced operator or line balancing.


Reasons of Bottleneck




Bottleneck before input in line
• If issue is not supplied in time from M.C.D and sub store
• If issue comes delay
• Issues serial number mistake
• Bundling mistake
• Wrong issue supply
• Pattern problem
 Bottleneck in line
• Worker selection wrong.
• Wrong works flow / sequence of works.
• Non-balanced allocation of elements
• Work negligence by workers.
• Workers absenteeism
• Machine disturbances / out of order.
• Lack of supply.
• Non-serial supplies forward from workers.
• Color shading
• Quality problem.
• If anybody becomes sick.
 Ways of reducing bottleneck
• By improving method
• By improving operator’s performance.
• By selecting correct operators
• By reducing unnecessary excess workload from workers.
• By preparing layout sheet before input in the line.
• By submitting the layout sheet to maintenance section minimum 2-3
days before for better preparation.
• By checking pattern before supply in the line.
• By making size set sample minimum 15 to 10 days before input.
• By arranging pre-production meeting in time
• By checking fabrics and accessories before issuing in the line.
• By keeping supply available in time.
• By maintaining serial number.
 Traffic Light System
• Random inspection system widely used in sewing section to
produce defect free garments at sewing floor ,
• More effective in controlling shop floor quality than other quality
tools because of its visual communication
• Measure operators performance as well as to maintain raw
material supply from MCD.
• Introduced by JC Penny for their supplier.
• 7 pieces garments are checked and evaluated.
• 4 times checking in 8 hours shift .
 Traffic Light Symbol

• Green light : When no defect found.

• Yellow light : When 1 defect found.

• Red light : When 2 defects found.

Format of Traffic Light system
The format used for displaying as well as recording audit report. The format is very simple
to use and to understand. The format is printed on a slightly thick A4 sheet and hanged on
the sewing machine. In this system quality auditor visit operator’s workplace 4 times in a
day (considering 8 hours shift day) and inspects stitched garments and fill circles with color
according to the inspection result. In the initial stage when this format had been introduced
by JC Penny for their supplier, they instructed to inspect 7 pieces from the stitch garments
and if auditor found any defective piece respective circle to be filled by RED color. If red
color is marked on the inspection sheet, all stitched pieces must be checked by an auditor.
And operator needs to be explained about the quality expected from him/her and how to
get that expected quality. In some case, operators need more practice to get right quality
pieces.
 Cost of Making(CM) Calculation

• Total factory expenditure per month (running) including factory

rent, utility bill , commercial cost, transportation, worker and
staff wages, etc.
• A total no of machines in the factory
• A total no of machines required to complete an item
• Targeted production per hour from the existing layout
• Total working day per month
• Total working hours per day
 CM calculation
• CM= Cost per Minute* Garment SMV
• Cost per Minute= Total Expenditure/ Total available minute
• Total expenditure=Salary wages, Interest, rental expense,
transportation cost, repair maintenance expense, commercial
cost, utility expense etc
• Available minute=total no of workers*Working hours per day*no
of working days per month* Line Efficiency
CPM= Total expenditure of a month/(Total running machine*working days*working hour)
Example, here total factory cost=10,50,00,000
• Running machine =2000
• Working days=25
• Working hour/day=8
CPM=10,50,00,000/(2000*25*8*60)=tk 4.375=$.05
CM=(SMV*CPM*12)/line efficiency
• Here SMV=7
• CPM=$.05
• Efficiency=60%=.6
CM=(7*.05*12)/.6=$7
 CPM

• CPM is the cost incurred per standard minute produced by a production line.

• For a day or month direct expenditure will remain the same but produced SMV may vary depending
on the number of garments produced. To reduce the cpm , the factory needs to increase the
produced minutes.

• Produced minutes increase by increasing line efficiency ie increasing the produced SMV
 Sewing Thread Consumption

• To calculate sewing thread consumption f irst we need to f in d the multiplying factor by dividing
thread length with seam length.

• Multiplying factor=Thread length/Seam length

• Step 1: Identify sewing machine, fabric and sewing thread

• Step-2: a specified length of a given seam is measured say 100 cms long seam and take 15 cms out
of it.

• Step-3: Unravel both needle thread and bobbin/looper thread. Remove crimp from the unraveled
thread and measure its length in cm. Now find the multiplying factor

• Step-4: once you have multiplying or consumption factor then it is easy to calculate total thread
consumption. Measure the seam length of all the operations of the garment and get the thread
consumption factor. Add 10 to 15% wastage for the thread.
Example
• Length of seam=100 cm(1 metre)

• Stitch class 401=2 thread chain stitch

• Length of a seam for which thread is removed=15 cm

• Needle thread removed=19.5 cm

• Needle thread factor=19.5/15=1.3

• Looper thread removed= 62 cm

• Looper thread factor=62/15=4.1

• Total needle thread=100cm*1.3=130 cm

• Total looper thread= 100 cm*4.1=410 cm

• Total thread consumed=130+410=540cm

• Add 15% wastage=540 cm *1.15=621 cm

Thread Consumption Ratios
Wastage
• 10 to 15%. Wastage occurs due to machine running, thread
breakage, repairs etc.
 Factors affecting thread requirement

• Stitch /seam choice

• fabric thickness and number of plies

• Stitch class

• Stitch density

• Thread tension

• Thread count

• Machine type
 software

• Seamworks is a sewing management software solution that can calculate thread consumption for
any sewn product. In addition, it enables you to choose the right thread ordering pattern for optimal
usage of the ordered thread .
 Garment Production/Garment Assembly

• Garments assembly is a basic requirement of clothing and fashion design which involves a
conversion of raw materials into a stitched and wearable piece of clothing. To make a complete
garment assembling is required for different parts of a garment. The front and the back body, yoke,
sleeve, collar, cuff, placket, and pocket need to be assembled together in order to make a basic shirt.
• Production systems are needed to enable companies to produce the largest number of products
effectively and efficiently for the lowest cost but at the required quality. Garments production system
is an integration of materials handling, production processes, personnel, and equipment’s that direct
workflow and generate f inished products. Simply, it is a way how the two-dimensional fabric is being
converted into a three-dimensional garment in a manufacturing system. Garments can be made by
applying different types of system. The garment production system used by an individual or in small
tailor shops is different from the systems used in the factories. Two systems are described bellows-
1) Individual System

It is the traditional method of production in which one operator or small team makes one complete
garment at the time by carrying out all the sewing processes necessary to assemble a garment. The
operator can also make a pattern and cut the fabric according to his or her own method of work. After
completion of assembling one single garment, the operator will start assembling the next one and so
on. This type of garment assembly system is effective when varieties of garments are required to be
produced in very small quantities. The individual system of assembling garment is more common with
homemakers, local tailors, boutiques, etc.
Advantage
• It has a quick throughput time and easy to supervise.
• There is no WIP in make through.
• No problem of absenteeism
Disadvantages
• High labor cost
• Multi-skilled operator is required for assembling
• Low productivity
• This system is limited to couture and sample making
2) Factory Production System

When products are made in a factory, there will be a system to ensure everything runs smoothly. These
are generally referred to as production systems. Several different production systems are used in the
apparel industry for assembling a garment. The choice of best production system depends on the type
of product, number of product to be made, when the products are needed, the size of the factory, and
the skills of the employees. The most commonly used types of production systems in the garment
industry are:
• Progressive Bundle System (PBS)
• Unit Production System (UPS)
• Modular Production System (MPS)
• The progressive bundle system is a traditional production system that has been widely used in the
apparel industries for many decades and still in today. In this system bundles of garments parts are
moved in sequence from one sewing machine operator to the next. Each worker receives a bundle of
unf inished garments and performs a single operation on each garment in the bundle. After f inished
of his/her work on a bundle, they are retied the bundle and passed on to the next operator. Each PBS
task is given a target time or “SAM” (Standard Allowed Minutes). Time study engineers calculate the
SAM for an entire garment for an experienced worker as the sum of the number of minutes required
for each operation in the production process, including allowances for worker fatigue, rest periods,
personal time and so on. The success of PBS depends on how the production system is set up and
used in a plant.

• In the cutting section cut components of one style and in one size are clubbed and bundled using ties.
Bundle sizes could vary from 2 to 100 pieces according to the requirement of the production plant. Each
bundle contains pieces of the same style and same size only.
• A ticket number will be allotted to each bundle which represents style, size, shade of the garments
and number of cut pieces etc.

• The bundles of cut parts are transported to the sewing section and given to the operators scheduled
to f in ished the operation. Thus bundles may be handled from one sewing station to another in
various form such as tied bundles, bags, pocketed bags, bundle trucks, boxes and baskets etc.
Features of progressive bundle System

• Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.

• Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties the bundle and passes it to

the next operator.
• The garments are gradually assembled as they move through successive sub-assembly
and main assembly operations in bundle form.
• There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for storing the inter-process

work between each operation.
• The work is routed by means of tickets.
• The use of the system decrease as firms seeks more flexibility.
• Machines and operations are organized into sections according to basic functions,

which produce subcomponents.
• Within each section, works are balanced according to the time required for each sub-
function.
• The number of machine for each operation is determined by the output required.
• This system is the most widely used system in the garment industry today.
• It is used in shirt factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
Advantages
• It allows high productivity.
• A high level of labor utilization can be achieved and helps in reducing time and cost.
• A uniform high quality of work can be ensured by in-process control.
• Labors of all levels (unskilled, skilled, semi-skilled labors) are involved in this system where the operations are
broken into simple operation. Hence the cost of labor is very cheap.
• Individual performances can be monitored and incentives offered.
• Due to bundle system, less chance to lot mix-up, size and shade variation of cut garment pieces.
• Tracking of bundles is possible, so identifying and solving the problems becomes easy.
• An efficient production control system and quality control system could be implemented.
• Small bundles allow faster throughput unless there are bottlenecks and extensive waiting between operations.
Disadvantages

• Time-consuming due to assembling, moving, tying and untying of bundles.

• Line balancing becomes dif ficult most of the time and this problem is solved by effective
production supervisor and IE Engineers.

• Slow processing, absenteeism, and equipment failure may also cause major bottlenecks
within the system.

• Large inventory, extra handling and difficulty in controlling inventory.

• Inventory cost will be high due to higher WIP in each.

• Proper planning is required for each batch and for each style, which takes lot of time.

• Variety of styles and less quantity is not effective in this system.

Unit Production System (UPS)

• The unit production system (UPS) for apparel industries is a f le xible material handling
system that requires a computerized overhead transportation system to move the
garment components automatically from one workstation to the next according to a pre-
determined sequence. It replaces the traditional garment production system of handing,
bundling, t ying and unt ying, and m anually m oving garm e nt par t s. It provide s
uninterrupted workf low to the workers and helps to improve work ef ficiency and product
quality. In the fast-moving fashion and apparel industry this is highly essential.
Features of a Unit Production System

• This system concerned with a single garment and not bundles.

• Layout design can be U, L, J, S and E shaped.

• This system is entirely computer controlled.

• It uses an overhead transportation system that automatically routes and delivers the cut pieces to
each sewing statio

• Even if one station does not work, the whole system still works normally.

• The system can identify whether the atmospheric pressure is normal and will auto-alarm when the
air pressure is below the system requirements.

• It has been ergonomically designed to reduce the amount of handling of the garment.

• The UPS is expensive (800-2000 USD/Station) to install, but it allows manufacturers to respond
quality to the demand of suppliers.

• This system is capable for rework easily. Because each garment is tracked within the system and
any problems to with quality control can be traced back automatically to the operator to be corrected.
• This system also records all data in each workstation within the line and computes them for
Management Planning & Control.

• The workstations are constructed as close as possible to the operator. So, the components
are sewn without removing from the hanger in most of the cases.

• Sewing operators concentrate on sewing without worrying where work pieces are coming
from and should go to.

• The system is highly flexible and can rapidly be modified to changes in the production line or
the need for expansion.

• Up to 40 garment styles can be produced concurrently on this system.

• It is possible to produce multiple designs, colors and sizes at the same time in the same
production line.

• It can be widely used in garment factories, especially for knitted/woven, trousers/shirts and
other clothes.
Operational Principles of Unit Production System

• This system is designed based on the following principles

• An operator set the process in the control station.

• Worker loads the cut pieces in a hanger from the loading station

• The hanger routes to the next workstation automatically according to the predetermined
process in the control station.

• Product is put together at every stage at each subsequent sewing station

• Product gets checked at the quality & control station (in line)

• Product continues to be pieced together at the next subsequent stations

• Final product gets checked and approved

• Approved product lands at the unloading station

• The empty hanger returns to the loading station.

Components of Unit Production System

• UPS consists of different types of element, such as

• Computer with Software

• Hanger with Microchips

• Overhead Conveyor with solid and strong structure

• Easy Push Button

• LCD Control Panel

• LED Screen