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Pocket Rough Guide

PARIS

written and researched by

RUTH BLACKMORE AND

JAMES McCONNACHIE
 Contents
INTRODUCTION 4
Paris at a glance ........................ 7 Itineraries ................................. 8

BEST OF PARIS 12
Big sights ................................ 14 Bars and nightlife .................... 24
Cultural Paris .......................... 16 Paris for kids ........................... 26
Dining ..................................... 18 Green Paris.............................. 28
Romantic Paris ........................ 20 Parisians' Paris ....................... 30
Paris shopping ......................... 22

PLACES 32
1 The Islands ........................ 34 9 The Quartier Latin .............104
2 The Louvre ......................... 40 10 St-Germain .......................114
3 The Champs-Elysées and 11 Montparnasse and southern
Tuileries ............................ 44 Paris ................................124
4 The Eiffel Tower area .......... 52 12 Montmartre and
5 The Grands Boulevards and northern Paris...................134
passages ........................... 64 13 Northeastern Paris ............146
6 Beaubourg and Les Halles... 76 14 The Bois de Boulogne and
7 The Marais......................... 82 western Paris ...................156
8 Bastille and Bercy .............. 96 15 Day-trips ..........................162

ACCOMMODATION 168
Hotels ....................................170 Hostels ..................................178

ESSENTIALS 180
Arrival ....................................182 Chronology .............................193
Getting around ........................184 French....................................196
Directory A–Z..........................188 Index......................................204
Festivals and events................192

<< PA R I S I A N M A C A R O N S
< NOTRE-DAME IN THE SPRINGTIME
3
 INTRODUCTION TO

PARIS
INTRODUCTION TO PARIS

A trip to Paris, famous as the most romantic of

destinations, is one of those lifetime musts. Long
the beating heart of European civilization, it remains
one of the world’s most refined yet passionate
cities. The very fabric of the place is exquisite,
with its magnificent avenues and atmospheric little
backstreets, its grand formal gardens and intimate
neighbourhood squares. And for all the famed pride
and hauteur of its citizens, the city seems to be
opening itself up to visitors more and more, with
new schemes to pedestrianize the riverbanks and
squares and make more of its splendid monuments
accessible.
PL ACE ST-MICHEL

4
JARDIN DU LUXEMBOURG

INTRODUCTION TO PARIS
Best places for a Parisian picnic

P
icnicking on the grass is rarely allowed in central Paris – except on
the elegant place des Vosges. But public benches make civilized
alternatives: try the pedestrian bridge, the Pont des Arts; the lime-tree-
shaded square Jean XXIII, behind Notre-Dame; the intimate Jardin du Palais
Royal; or the splendid Jardin du Luxembourg. Further out, the parks of Buttes-
Chaumont and André-Citroën offer idyllic spots for lounging on the grass.

Paris is a city that has weathered Eiffel Tower. The Louvre

many storms, not least the has one of the world’s truly
French Revolution, the student outstanding museums, while
riots of 1968 and most recently the art collections of the Musée
the series of devastating terrorist d’Orsay and Pompidou Centre
attacks in November 2015, are unrivalled.
which left 130 people dead and Yet there is a host of smaller
many more wounded. While museums, and alongside the
in the immediate aftermath great civic monuments lie
this inevitably had an impact distinct quartiers that make
on visitor numbers, the city is Paris feel more a collection
getting back on its feet and the of sophisticated villages than
café terraces and restaurants are a modern-day metropolis.
humming with cosmopolitan Communities still revolve
chatter. around well-loved cafés and
The city is divided into restaurants, and the student,
twenty arrondissements in a gay and immigrant quarters
spiral, centred on the Louvre. are, by and large, lively and
The inner hub comprises well-defined. So too are the
arrondissements 1er to 6e, and wealthier districts, with their
it’s here that most of the major exclusive boutiques and
sights and museums are to restaurants. Neighbourhoods
be found. Through the heart such as the elegant Marais,
of the city flows the Seine, St-Germain and romantic
skirting the pair of islands Montmartre are ideal for
where Paris was founded. The shopping, sitting in cafés and
historic pillars of the city, the aimless wandering, while
church of Notre-Dame and throughout the city you can find
the royal palace of the Louvre, peaceful green spaces, ranging
stand on the riverbank, along from formal gardens and
with one of the world’s most avant-garde municipal parks to
distinctive landmarks – the ancient cemeteries.
5
 Above all, Paris is a city
defined by its food. Few When to visit

S
cities can compete with pring is the classic time to
the thousand-and-one
visit Paris; the weather is
cafés, brasseries, bistrots,
restaurants, bakeries, food mild (average daily 6–20°C),
INTRODUCTION TO PARIS

shops and markets that and plentiful bright sunny days

line the boulevards and are balanced by occasional
back alleys alike. You’ll find freshening rain showers. Autumn,
anything from ultra-modern similarly mild, and winter (1–7°C)
fashion temples to traditional can be very rewarding, but on
mirrored palaces, and from overcast days the city can feel
tiny neighbourhood bistrots to melancholic, and cold winds can
crowded Vietnamese diners. really cut down the boulevards;
Parisian nightlife is scarcely winter sun, however, is the city’s
less renowned: its theatres and
concert halls pull in artists of
most flattering light, and hotels
the highest calibre, while the and restaurants are relatively
tiny venues hosting jazz gigs, uncrowded in this season. Paris
art events and Parisian chanson in high summer (15–25°C) is not
nights offer a taste of a more the best time to go: large numbers
local, avant-garde scene. The of Parisians desert the capital
café-bars and clubs of the between July 15 and the end of
Champs-Elysées, northeastern August for the beach or mountains,
districts and the Left Bank and many restaurants and shops
fill with the young and close down for much of this period.
style-conscious from all over.
PA R I S P L A G E

6
PARIS AT A GLANCE
>>EATING >>SHOPPING

INTRODUCTION TO PARIS
There’s a real buzz about the One of the most appealing
current Paris dining scene, shopping areas is St-Germain,
as talented young chefs open with its wide variety of
up new bistrots – the 10e clothes shops and gourmet
arrondissement and the food stores. Designer wear
northeastern districts are and haute couture are
good areas to try. For more concentrated around the
traditional French cuisine, Champs-Elysées and on rue
you don’t have to look far: du Faubourg-St-Honoré,
every quartier has its own while more alternative fashion
local bistrot, serving staples boutiques can be found in the
such as steak au poivre. For a Marais, especially around rue
really authentic experience, Charlot, and in Montmartre,
go for a classic brasserie such in particular on rue des
as Gallopin (see p.73) off the Martyrs. If you’re short on
Grands Boulevards, where time, make for one of the
you can dine amid splendid department stores, such as
original decor. You can almost Printemps or Galeries Lafayette
always eat more cheaply at
on the Right Bank, or Bon
lunchtime, when most places
Marché on the Left Bank. For
offer set menus from around
quirky one-off buys and curios,
€15. Even some of the haute
head for the atmospheric
cuisine restaurants become just
passages (nineteenth-century
about affordable at lunch.
shopping arcades), just off the
>>DRINKING Grands Boulevards.
It’s easy to go drinking in Paris: >>NIGHTLIFE
most cafés stay open late and
serve alcoholic drinks as well The best clubs in Paris
as coffee, and old-fashioned double up as live venues,
wine bars and English-style but dancefloors rarely
“pubs” can be found warm up before 1am. Good
everywhere. That said, certain eclectic venues include the
areas specialize in late-night boats moored beside the
drinking. The Marais offers Bibliothèque Nationale, and
trendy but relaxed café-bars; Oberkampf classics such as
further east, the Bastille and L’Alimentation Générale and
Oberkampf areas have lots Le Nouveau Casino. Serious
of youthful venues, many clubbers should chase down
doubling as clubs. On the Left the latest soirée, though the
Bank, the Quartier Latin has clubs Rex, Showcase and Social
lots of postage-stamp-sized Club are generally good bets.
studenty dives, while Rue des Lombards has some
St-Germain is the place for classic venues, notably the jazz
cheery posh partying. club Le Sunside.

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS FOR WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND

SHOP ARE LISTED AT THE END OF EACH PLACES CHAPTER
7
 Day One in Paris
1 Ile de la Cité > p.34. Paris was
founded on this tiny island, which
ITINERARIES

rises out of the River Seine.

2 Notre-Dame > p.36. The
magnificent Gothic cathedral of
Notre-Dame is the uplifting, historic
heart of the city.
3 Sainte-Chapelle > p.35. This
chapel is an exquisite jewel box,
walled in medieval stained glass.
4 Pont-Neuf > p.34. The riverbank
quays lead west to the Pont-Neuf, the
oldest bridge in the city, and beyond to
the square du Vert Galant, where you
can sit and watch the Seine flow by.

Lunch > p.122. Head away

• from the tourist bustle,
south into St-Germain, for lunch at
contemporary bistrot, L’Epi Dupin.

5 Jardin du Luxembourg > p.119.

These gardens are filled with people
playing tennis or chess and couples
strolling round the elegant lawns.
6 Pont des Arts > p.114. This
handsome pedestrian bridge runs from
St-Germain to the Louvre; you can
pick up the Batobus beside it and head
downriver.
7 Musée d’Orsay > p.115. This
grand old railway station houses some
of the most beguiling Impressionist
works ever painted.
8 Eiffel Tower > p.52. Continue
on the Batobus to this world-famous
structure, ever more thrilling the
closer you get to it.

Dinner > p.132. Head over to

• Montparnasse for a meal at
small but perfect bistrot, Le Timbre.

8
Day Two in Paris
1 Pompidou Centre > p.76.
Begin the day with a crash course in

ITINERARIES
modern art – the Musée National d’Art
Moderne has an unbeatable collection
of Matisses, Picassos, and more.
2 Rue Montorgueil > p.79.
Stroll down this picturesque market
street, where grocers, butchers and
fishmongers ply their trade alongside
traditional restaurants and trendy cafés.

Lunch > p.72. Stop off at

• Bistrot des Victoires, an
old-fashioned bistrot serving confit de
canard and other staples.

3 Galerie Vivienne > p.68. One

of a number of nineteenth-century
shopping arcades dotted around the
area, this is probably the finest, with
its lofty glass ceiling, floor mosaics
and Grecian motifs.
4 Palais Royal > p.67. The
handsome arcaded buildings of
the Palais Royal enclose peaceful
gardens and shelter quirky antique
shops selling pipes, Légion d’Honneur
medals and lead soldiers.
5 Jardin des Tuileries > p.48.
Saunter along the chestnut-tree-lined
alleys of the Jardin des Tuileries,
admiring the grand vistas, formal
flower beds and fountains.
6 Place de la Concorde > p.48.
An impressive piece of town planning,
with a gold-tipped obelisk at its
centre, broad avenues radiating off it,
and grand monuments, such as the Arc
de Triomphe, in every direction.

Dinner > p.50. Eat out on the

• wonderful terrace or in the
classy dining room of the Mini Palais.

9
 Art lover’s Paris
Paris was long the undisputed international capital of art.
The cafés of Montmartre and Montparnasse may now be
ITINERARIES

haunted only by the ghosts of the great Impressionists and

Modernists, but in the city’s galleries you can come face to
face with their living works.
1 Musée d’Art Moderne de la
Ville de Paris > p.56. The museum
celebrates Paris’s Modernists, and has
a stunning mural by Matisse and a
great view across the Seine.
2 Palais de Tokyo > p.56. The
gallery’s distressed-chic interior is
home to cutting-edge contemporary
artists such as Dran.

5 Louvre > p.40. If you’re going to

tackle the mighty Louvre, take on a
less well known wing, such as French
sculpture or Objets d’Art.

Dinner > p.81. Wind down

• with a meal at the excellent
La Régalade Saint Honoré – be sure
to make a reservation, though, as this
modern bistrot is deservedly popular.
3 Musée Rodin > p.60. Rodin’s
stirring sculptures are housed in an
elegant mansion, now fully open again
after a splendid revamp.

Lunch > p.62. Stop for a

• hearty lunch at the relaxed
La Fontaine de Mars.

4 Musée Picasso > p.83. An

exceptional collection of works by
Picasso set in a beautifully renovated
Renaissance mansion.
10
Budget Paris
Despite Paris’s reputation as an expensive city, there are
many treats to be enjoyed for free, plus plenty of good-

ITINERARIES
value deals to be had at restaurants.
1 Hôtel Bonséjour
Montmartre > p.177. Set on
a quiet street, this hotel is
a steal at €60 for a simple
double with sink, or €69 for
one with a shower.
2 Buses > p.185. Touring
by bus is enjoyable and
inexpensive; try the #29 from
Gare St-Lazare, which goes 6 Maison de Victor Hugo > p.88.
past the Opera Garnier, through the It’s free to visit the stately place des
Marais, and on to Bastille. Vosges mansion that Victor Hugo
lived in.
7 Petit Palais > p.46. The Petit
Palais hosts free lunchtime classical
concerts on Thursdays roughly twice a
month, and there’s no charge to visit
the museum’s fine collection of art.

Dinner > p.102. The

• French cuisine at charming
restaurant L’Encrier is excellent value,
3 Sacré-Coeur > p.138. There’s
no charge to visit this Parisian with set menus from €21.
landmark, but the real draw is the
view from the terrace.
4 Musée Carnavalet > p.86. One
of the city’s best free museums is
the Musée Carnavalet, devoted to the
history of Paris.

Lunch > p.92. For a cheap

• and filling lunch, get a
takeaway from L’As du Fallafel in the
Marais’ Jewish Quarter.

5 Place des Vosges > p.87. Lounge

on the grass beneath the elegant
facades of the place des Vosges, and
enjoy the entertainment from buskers
playing in the arcades.
11
BEST OF PARIS
 Big sights
BEST OF PARIS

1 Eiffel Tower It may seem familiar from afar, but close up the Eiffel Tower
is still an excitingly improbable structure. > p.52
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