Flyback Transformer Driver For Beginners
Flyback Transformer Driver For Beginners
by Alex1M6
up include alligator/crocodile clip jumpers, terminal breadboard if you keep an eye on the transistor
blocks or even just twisting the bare wire ends heating.
together really tightly. You could even use a
1. This is 12v input with my best flyback. 1. CRT TV with the back removed.
1. This is 12v input with my best flyback. 2. Flyback transformer.
What you will need: It would appear many audio and linear application
transistors possess these parameters.
1x Fly ba ck t ra ns f o rm e r
1x He a t s ink w it h m o unt ing s cre w s a nd
From an old CRT TV/monitor or purchased online lo cking nut s
(don't get ripped o , these things are worth about
$15 max when new). TV ybacks seem to perform best (Bigger heatsink is better). The MJ15003 uses TO-3
with this circuit, monitor ybacks don't put out as case style whilst the MJE13007 uses TO−220, TO-3
much. hardware is generally more expensive than TO−220.
Those who are handy with metalwork could probably
1x Tra ns is t o r s uch a s M J150 0 3. fabricate their own heatsink out of scrap by drilling
the required mounting holes, just google TO-3 or
2n3055 is the classic transistor often paired with this TO−220 transistor technical drawing for more info.
driver on the internet, but the 60v rating really limits
its usefulness and more often than not results in it A thermal pad or paste/grease is recommended for
being destroyed. The peak collector to emitter voltage better thermal transfer between the transistor and
easily soars above this 60v rating and clips when the heatsink. The cheapest and nastiest stu you can nd
transistor breaks down causing extensive heating and on ebay is adequate for this, I had some leftover from
eventual failure of the device. So please don't use it, if a PC build but you could salvage enough from old
you do you'll need a large capacitor like 470-1uF LED light bulbs or the TV you took the yback from! A
across it to limit the peak voltage. This will make the pea sized amount is plenty and the transistor will
arcs very small too. squash it down and spread it out.
A good transistor has decent current gain (Hfe), for The resistor values do not have to be exact, the next
example MJ15003 measures about 30 with my standard value up or down would work also, they
Chinese tester and low turn-o delay (storage time) need to bias the transistor on by feeding about 0.7-1v
and fall times. to the base, the upper one needs to allow a few tens
of milliamps through whilst the bottom one sets the
It also needs to be rated for several amps to handle turn o current when the transistor comes out of
the peak currents and at-least 100v, but below 250v is saturation, making this a lower value will increase
preferred as the higher voltage parts such often fail output but cause more stress on the transistor and
to oscillate in this circuit. heat.
1x Ca pa cit o r
schematics.
2
1
1. Primary coil.
2. Feedback coil.
1. Originally a 2n3055 was used, but now I know they suck for this circuit.
In the graphical diagram, the red coil is the primary The green coil is the feedback coil with one end
coil with one end connecting to the positive "+" of the connecting to the middle point of the two resistors,
power supply/battery, the other end connects to the and the other to the base of the transistor (looking at
transistors collector which is actually the metal casing the T0-3 underside this is the pin on the left).
of the transistor itself if a T0-3 style transistor is used.
To power the circuit I recommend a power source AA ba t t e rie s in series are ne, the arcs will just
which can supply a minimum of 2 amps, lower will gradually become smaller and smaller as they become
most likely work but will limit the output. depleted. An AA cell is considered spent when it drops
below 0.9v at rest, but many can still power other
Add more turns on both windings to increase power, loads even when they're no longer able to supply the
(contrary to what I've read online), this lowers the juice for this circuit.
operating frequency and allows more primary current
to ramp up. The number of turns appears to give a A 12v le a d a cid ba t t e ry is a very good way of
rudimentary form of adjustable current limiting. powering this circuit and is what I personally used.
W a ll W a rt /cha rg e r You can use these, but be 6 v la nt e rn ba t t e rie s will power this circuit for a
mindful of their voltage and current ratings. The long time before the arcs start getting small. These
switched mode variety will most likely go into self are not too common nowadays and pretty expensive
limiting/shut down if the maximum current rating is in many places, don't waste your money if cheaper
exceeded. options are available!
S a lv a g e d t ra ns f o rm e r Done this myself for my AAA ba t t e rie s will work for a while but won't last
12v driver, a 48VA transformer which puts out 9v AC as long as the larger AA cells, they also have a higher
will give roughly 12v DC 3 amps when recti ed and internal resistance so will waste more power as heat.
smoothed. A 4700uF 25v capacitor will give plenty of
smoothing, I'd go with 50v 4 amp bridge recti er 9 v /PP3 ba t t e rie s will give a few minutes play
diodes minimum. when new before the arcs become smaller and the
circuit stops working. The upper resistor will probably
Lit hium ce lls in series are great as they can supply need to be around 180 ohms for 9v, but I didn't make
lots of current. a 9v driver schematic as it would probably lead people
to using 9v PP3 batteries and disappointment.
D rill ba t t e rie s are ne, most are 18v so use the 18v
circuit.
Sharp pointed nails work well and give slightly larger arcs than rounded electrodes, I used a piece of scrap metal
for mine. Attach one end of a wire to the chicken stick electrode and the other end will be attached to the HV return
pin on the yback transformer (either solder in place or use an alligator clip or terminal block).
S ca ry w a rning s .
Including the obvious risk of electric shock another thing to take note of is the arc is VERY hot and can easily burn
or set to re to anything it touches. Even the cable insulation will burn if you draw the arc onto it.
If you insist on burning pieces of paper or other objects take that into account and have some way of putting the
re out.
Never touch the high voltage wire or any of the yback base pins when the circuit is turned on.
Make sure you can easily cut power to the circuit.
Do not use this circuit on an unsuitable surface such as a bare metal or easily ammable surface.
The transistor heat-sink can get hot, watch out not to burn yourself.
The primary coil and transistor collector can ring up to a few hundred volts, don't touch these either.
Keep any high voltage cables away from other parts of the circuit.
Keep pets away. As well as the risk of shocking your pet from the sparks many household pets like to
chew things such as wires, the high frequency noise can upset many animals too.
D is cla im e r
I am in no way responsible if you mess up or hurt yourself or others with this circuit.
1. Chicken stick connected to the high voltage return pin on the base of the
flyback transformer
2. The other two thinner wires coming out of the flyback transformer, these
will give smaller arcs.
3. Ceramic tile to stop carpet accidents.
4. Don't touch! It's hot enough to set paper on fire and will damage you, the
shock may be high enough frequency that it doesn't feel like an electric
shock but will still incur internal bodily damage.
2 1
Step 8: Troubleshooting
If nothing happens then try reversing the connections to one of the coils.
If it works but the arc is small try reversing both the primary and feedback coil connections. Around
2cm is the maximum arc length you are going to get out of this driver, 1cm may also be the
maximum on some ybacks. Also try adding more turns to both coils, this lowers the operating
frequency and allows more current to ramp up in the core.
Make sure all connections are secure and nothing is shorting out. Enamelled copper wire is notorious
for bad connections, soldering doesn't always break through the enamel. I use a knife to scrape
some o and prepare for a good connection.
It works but the transistor gets very hot. This is normal for this circuit, the price to pay for a simple
design! The way the switching cycle ends is by the transistor coming out of saturation as the collector
current increases beyond a certain point, a transistor passing a few amps out of saturation will cause
heat. To combat this add more thermal mass to the heatsink, either by swapping it for a larger one or
attaching more metal to the current one.
The 22 ohm resistor gets hot, this is normal. It my case it dissipates 1.96w, but that's enough to get
most little resistors too hot to touch. If you're not comfortable with components running too hot to
touch then increase the thermal mass, in the resistors case increase the wattage rating.
Broke the core? Glue it back together, dampening the mating surfaces with water rst will help
certain types of glues stick.
1. Its better to use soldered wires for permanent setups as clips like
to come off over time.
You can measure the peak voltage spike across the Try making a jacob's ladder by placing two rigid
transistor with the method shown in the picture, it is conductors like thick copper wire in a vertical V shape,
important to keep the peak collector to emitter the arc forms at the closest point near the bottom
voltage below the maximum rating of the transistor and rises at it heats the air.
along within the safe operating area (about 80v at 3
amps for the MJ15003). HV capacitors are also interesting, you can make one
by taping two pieces of foil on each side of an
A transistor may appear to clamp the peak drain insulator such as a plastic container lid and running
voltage for a while but this quickly leads to failure of two wires to each sheet. Now connect one plate to the
the part. HV out and other to the HV return, the arcs will turn
into a series of loud bright snaps! Just don't touch it
PNP transistors can be used by ipping a few things as it really hurts.
around.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fuFQ4cqoFKc
1. Over-kill wattage resistors! You only need around 2-5 watt 1. Peak collector to emitter voltage across my 140v MJ15003 transistor with 200nF
resistors here. These are just some I found in my resistor box. capacitor, measured using the auxiliary diode and capacitor method.
2. Undersized heatsink.
This is why the 60v 2n3055 is a bad choice, but without the damper diode and
capacitor the peak voltage would fly up to the breakdown voltage of the device and
destroy it.
The 2n3055 just appears to survive this for awhile giving the impression of a
functional circuit.
Yeah, I just noticed that too. Shame teenage me didn't all those years ago! I've updated the
schematic now.
Flyback Transformer Driver for Beginners: Page 15
Sir i have modified a few things
Here i use electronic ballast 40w
With 12 turns of primary coil
On a exam board as a base
Yeah, looks good! With the switch to LED bulbs those halagen light ballasts are literally being
given away for free in some cases.
The circuit
i made it! but still a big problem,i use 5w creamic resistor,when run 10s,the transistor and resistor
become too hot,any one got same problem?
big heatsink
what happen if i use 2 or more transistor or greater then 2n3055 and more resistors of same value
that you suggested us and a more powerful diodes.is it sufficient to drive out 30kv. if not then can
you please suggest us what to do for driving 30kv output from a fly back transformer of a monitor.
one more question ???
can i use transistors ,diodes ,capacitors ,resistors etc from my monitors circuit board.
I didn't try more transistors but a dude said that he hooked up 3 in parallel and they worked but
didn't make the spark longer by much...it I said in the instructable that you can use the things from
your TVs board :)
Can you please suggest me what to do for driving 80kv output from a fly back transformer.
I was wondering what the output voltage was, I need around 120 volts at 60 amps, I was gonna
use this for a project please respond asap
Flyback transformers output 20 or 30kv, you need another kind of transformer.
If your country voltage is 120V you don't need a transformer, but 60A!?!!?? that is a LOT of current,
at 120V 60A will be 7200W, thats a lot, considering that a incandescent lamp consumes 60W
I think probably you did not grasp the values here. Usually in open air, each mm of space needs
1000 Volts to make a spark jump. So if you see a 2cm spark, it means around 20,000 volts.
Voltage increase as current decreases. So if you provides 12V @ 2A, probably you are getting
20KV @ 1,2 milli Ampère.
If you need 120V 60A, you need to get wires directly from the electricity meter of your house
(Where I live, the average capacity to a whole house is 127V @ 40 or 50 Amps...
Do your homework and figure it out what exactly do you need.
Ohm's law, current x volts x power...
By your question sorry but it seems you don't have an idea what you want or are dealing with. So
be safe and research a bit more. :)
I have made it too! :D
If this were a normal transformer you would be right in saying that more primary turns would give
fewer secondary volts but this is like a car's ignition coil and like that coil it operates on the
principle of stored energy, that energy is defined as 1/2 Li^2, where L is the inductance of the
primary winding and i is the current through it. As you increase the number of turns the inductance
also increases resulting in more energy being stored and subsequently released into the secondary
winding = bigger spark. I hope that helps in understanding the apparent paradox.
If you didn't get enough arc, then try change 220ohm resistance to variable one. Like 1k ohm
variable resistance, and find your own frequency. My arc is small yet, but it's better than before.
By the way be careful about ozone, they're not good at our body.
I made it! I got the flyback from my old 14" CRT monitor.. Took some
time to build. But in the end, it's beyond my expectation. It was
powered 12VDC from a computer PSU and after a few adjustments I got an arc about 1,2cm long.
And after playing around with my coil, curiosity comes to me.. What if I add more V? So I made a
special simple-rectified 5A DC power supply with. It has 6, 12, 15, 18, 24 and 30VDC. So I try
15VDC as initial test with new PS. It works! But nothing significantly change. And then the
unsatisfied me added more V to 18VDC. The start button pushed... And.. Nothing happens.. I
found it that I had lost the 2N3055.. I couldn't understand.. 2N3055 is to sturdy to be fried by a
18VDC! But instead of learning what happen to the 2N3055, I just throw the dead 2N3055 and add
3 of it in parallel (I found it that adding more transistor helps a lot in keeping the transistor away
from overheat).. Along with that replacement, I add a switch to bypass the 220 OHM and name it
as the "FULL POWER" switch! After plenty of changes I decided to run a test to the circuit.. So I
test it with 24VDC.. It runs perfectly with about 1,5cm or more (couldn't reach 2cm).. The only
how did you adjust the psu?can you give me some information?i made it and ran by psu but only
fan work,nothing else happen
i tried using a some of flyback.but doent work can u tell me what type of flyback is suitable
Hi thanks for the instructable i tried it was awesome i got 2.3cm sparks but it also gave off a weird
smell i thought the transistor burned off but it didnt after research i found out it was OZONE. Is the
ozone produced by this circuit dangeros
Ozone is 3 oxygen atoms bonded together, and by itself is normally not dangerous. But ozone can
be vulnerable to something called deflagration, where it can be lit on fire by a spark, resulting in a
fireball, at worst. Make sure you have ventilation to get rid of the ozone.
Rather than using an external diode, a damper-diode type HOT could be used.
Can anyone tell me what sort of power adapter should we use to drive it? In this it is written 12
volts 2 amps.... ?????
Get a lcd tv adapter which are 12v @ 5amp.
Can I use this circuit to drive a small solid state tesla coil? Also, can I use an IGBT ( insulated gate
bipolar transistor ) in place of the 2n3055?
Thanx for the great instructable. I made mine with a darlington pair in parallel with a 2n3055, it
makes a 1.5 inch arch at 13 volts. Also drives a sgtc very nicely.
Do I use byt77 diode as ultra fast diode?
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After few seconds of working my transistor get really hot and i have a big heatsink and cooling fan.
What to do? Please help.
put some thermal compound between the transistor and heatsink.
If you are interested in long sparks then buy yourself a 6 inch 12 volt DC powered plasma ball from
Walmart for $17.
Presently I have harvested 140 DC volts from the OUTER SURFACE of the ball
in a way never done before. Tesla being the exception. That is true radiant energy collected and
manifested into electricity just as Tesla might have done. Will post video on You Tube later.
can i power it by psu,with yellow and black wire?i made that circuit,ran it and nothing
happenned.use psu,only the fan run,12v 3a accu,the resistor blown up... can any one explain me
why?
Hi bui.. I didn't adjust anything on the computer PSU.. The
adjustment is for the driver circuit.. So I didn't do anything to the
PSU..
Anyway, have you exchange the primary and the feedback coil's connection? At my first trial I got
nothing before I switch around the coils. And yes, for the computer PSU you can get the +12V from
any yellow wire.. If your resistor blown up then try to double the wattage or the value of the
resistor.. it works for me.. Currently I use 36V 5A with ZVS driver.. It can strike the ground from
5cm away and can stretch along 15cm..
my friend told me that too,i did it and the transistor became too hot,then it blew up,why?use psu
12v.can you explain me why the psu case write 12v 18a,imax of transistor is 15a,why you still can
run it?could you please send me some pic about your zvs driver.thank!
what gauge wire is used for the feedback coil?
please help me ! my arcs are smaller than 1 cm, I want to increase arc length