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Patchwork House Socks

The Patchwork House Socks pattern combines sock and blanket knitting for cozy comfort, using various fingering weight yarns and US size 1 needles. It includes detailed instructions for creating mitred squares, foot and toe shaping, and an afterthought heel, with adjustments for different foot sizes. The pattern is designed for two sizes, with guidance on materials, gauge, and techniques to ensure a snug fit.

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bibiche251
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
2K views10 pages

Patchwork House Socks

The Patchwork House Socks pattern combines sock and blanket knitting for cozy comfort, using various fingering weight yarns and US size 1 needles. It includes detailed instructions for creating mitred squares, foot and toe shaping, and an afterthought heel, with adjustments for different foot sizes. The pattern is designed for two sizes, with guidance on materials, gauge, and techniques to ensure a snug fit.

Uploaded by

bibiche251
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

patchwork house socks

💙💜🩷
This pattern was inspired by my love of both sock and blanket knitting. By blending the practicality of socks
with the cozy warmth of a blanket, these socks are designed to feel like wrapping your feet in comfort

Materials

yarn: various fingering weight yarns


needles: US size 1 (2.25 mm)
notions: tapestry needle, scissors, stitch markers, ruler or measuring tape

Gauge

36 stitches over 4” (10 cm) in garter stitch


36 garter ridges over 4” (10 cm)

Finished dimensions

foot circumference:
size one - 7 inches (18 cm)
size two - 8 inches (20 cm)
toe sock length:
size one - approximately 1.25 inches
size two - approximately 1.50 inches

Adjusting for different foot sizes

keep in mind that garter stitch makes for a stretchier fabric than stockinette stitch

you can adjust the number of rows for the instep & foot panels to make the sock longer or shorter - just make
sure that both panels have the same number of rows

Abbreviations

cdd (centered double decrease) - slip 2 stitches together as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitches over, purl
center stitch on wrong side
co - cast on
k - knit
k2tog - knit 2 stitches together
p - purl
rnd - round
rs - right side
sl1wyif - slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front
ssk - slip 1 stitch knitwise, slip a second stitch knitwise and then knit these 2 stitches together through the back
loop
st(s) - stitch(es)
ws - wrong side
Helpful resources

*my favorite mitred square blanket pattern is The Coziest Memory by Kemper Wray

🧦
*my favorite afterthought heel tutorial is by Kirbywirby Yarns on YouTube
*step by step pictures & videos can be found on my Instagram profile @autumngeisha under the patchwork
highlight
https://www.instagram.com/s/aGlnaGxpZ2h0OjE4MDIwMTQwNDE4NzQ2MzA5?igsh=MW1qd2s2a2ZvOWN6
Mg==

Instructions

Mitred square panel:

size one (size two)

square one:
co 21 (25) sts using long tail co
row 1 (ws): sl1wyif, k9 (11), p1, k10 (12)
row 2 (rs): sl1wyif, k8 (10), cdd, k9 (11)
row 3 (ws): sl1wyif, k8 (10), p1, k9 (11)
row 4 (rs): sl1wyif, k7 (9), cdd, k8 (10)
row 5 (ws): sl1wyif, k7 (9), p1, k8 (10)
row 6 (rs): sl1wyif, k6 (8), cdd, k7 (9)
row 7 (ws): sl1wyif, k6 (8), p1, k7 (9)
row 8 (rs): sl1wyif, k5 (7), cdd, k6 (8)
row 9 (ws): sl1wyif, k5 (7), p1, k6 (8)
row 10 (rs): sl1wyif, k4 (6), cdd, k5 (7)
row 11 (ws): sl1wyif, k4 (6), p1, k5 (7)
row 12 (rs): sl1wyif, k3 (5), cdd, k4 (6)
row 13 (ws): sl1wyif, k3 (5), p1, k4 (6)
row 14 (rs): sl1wyif, k2 (4), cdd, k3 (5)
row 15 (ws): sl1wyif, k2 (4), p1, k3 (5)
row 16 (rs): sl1wyif, k1 (3), cdd, k2 (4)
row 17 (ws): sl1wyif, k1 (3), p1, k2 (4)

size one only:


row 18 (rs): sl1wyif, cdd, k1
row 19 (ws): sl1wyif, p1, k1
row 20 (rs): slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front, slip 1 stitch knitwise with yarn in back, knit 1, pass the
slipped stitches over, break yarn and draw through remaining stitch

size two only:


row 18 (rs): sl1wyif, k2, cdd, k3
row 19 (ws): sl1wyif, k2, p1, k3
row 20 (rs): sl1wyif, k1, cdd, k2
row 21 (ws): sl1wyif, k1, p1, k2
row 22 (rs): sl1wyif, cdd, k1
row 23 (ws): sl1wyif, p1, k1
row 24 (rs): slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in front, slip 1 stitch knitwise with yarn in back, knit 1, pass the
slipped stitches over, break yarn and draw through remaining stitch

for diagonal decreases pointing to the left:

square two:
pick up & knit 10 (12) stitches along the left edge of the first square (the diagonal decreases should be pointing
to the left) then cast on 11 (13) stitches using the backwards loop cast on
row 1 (ws): knit 10 (12), purl 1, knit 10 (12) through the back loop
for size one knit rows 2-20 as for square one
for size two knit rows 2-24 as for square one

square three:
knit as for square two

square four:
co 11 (13) stitches using long tail co then pick up & knit 10 (12) stitches along top edge of square one
row 1 (ws): sl1wyif, knit 9 (11) stitches through the back loop, purl 1, knit 10 (12)
for size one knit rows 2-20 as for square one
for size two knit rows 2-24 as for square one

square five:
pick up & knit 10 (12) stitches along the left edge of square four then 11 (13) stitches along the top edge of
square two
row 1 (ws): sl1wyif, knit 9 (11) stitches through the back loop, purl 1, knit 10 (12) stitches through the back loop
for size one knit rows 2-20 as for square one
for size two knit rows 2-24 as for square one

squares 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17 & 18:


knit as for square five

squares 7, 10, 13 & 16:


knit as for square four

for diagonal decreases pointing to the right:

knit square one

square two:
co 11 (13) stitches using long tail co then pick up & knit 10 (12) stitches along the right edge of square one
row 1 (ws): sl1wyif, knit 9 (11) stitches through the back loop, purl 1, knit 10 (12)
for size one knit rows 2-20 as for square one
for size two knit rows 2-24 as for square one

square three:
co 11 (13) stitches using long tail co then pick up & knit 10 (12) stitches along the right edge of square two
row 1 (ws): sl1wyif, knit 9 (11) stitches through the back loop, purl 1, knit 10 (12)
for size one knit rows 2-20 as for square one
for size two knit rows 2-24 as for square one

square four:
pick up and knit 10 (12) stitches along the top edge of square one then co 11 (13) stitches using backwards
loop cast on
row 1 (ws): knit 10 (12) stitches, purl 1, k10 (12) stitches through the back loop
for size one knit rows 2-20 as for square one
for size two knit rows 2-24 as for square one

square five:
pick up and knit 10 (12) stitches along the top edge of square two then 11 (13) stitches along the right edge of
square four
row 1 (ws): sl1wyif, knit 9 (11) stitches through the back loop, purl 1, knit 10 (12) stitches through the back loop
for size one knit rows 2-20 as for square one
for size two knit rows 2-24 as for square one

square 6, 8, 9, 11, 12, 14, 15, 17 & 18:


knit as for square five

square 7, 10, 13 & 16:


knit as for square four

Foot/sole:

join as you go method:

tip - before starting the foot I like to map out the soon to be picked up stitches on each edge of the mitred
square panel by placing a removable stitch marker every 10 (12) stitches

co 30 (36) stitches using long tail cast on

row 1 (ws): with the wrong side of the mitred square edge facing you use the left needle to pick up both legs of
the mitred square edge stitch from front to back and knit them together with the first stitch on left needle, knit to
last stitch, with the right side of the mitred square edge facing you use the left needle to pick up both legs of
the mitred square edge stitch from back to front and knit them together with the last stitch on left needle

row 2 (rs): sl1wyif, knit to last stitch, sl1wyif

repeat rows 1 & 2 until all mitred square edge stitches are picked up, ending with row 2, leave stitches for foot
on needle & go to toe instructions

seaming method:

my personal preference!
co 30 (36) stitches using long tail cast on (leave a long tail of yarn for seaming - about 1.5 yards)

next row (ws): sl1wyif, knit across


repeat until there are 60 (72) garter ridges/slip stitches on each edge, ending after knitting a right side row -
leave stitches on needle

tip - before seaming the panels together I like to map out the edge stitches on the foot panel by placing a
removable stitch marker every 10 (12) stitches

with right sides of the instep & foot panels facing each other whipstitch sides together, making sure that the last
row of squares knitted are at the same end as the stitches still on the needle

Toe:

pick up & knit 30 (36) stitches from mitred square panel (instep) for a total of 60 (72) stitches (30 (36) foot
stitches + 30 (36) stitches just picked up from mitred square panel (instep)

arrange stitches on needles to knit in the round using your preferred small circumference knitting method

place marker to indicate beginning of round

toe shaping:
rnd 1: purl all stitches
rnd 2 (decrease round): K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts of foot K2tog, K1. K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts of instep K2tog,
K1.
rnd 3: K2 then purl across to last 2 sts of foot K2. K2 then purl across to last 2 sts of instep K2.
repeat rnds 2 & 3 until 24 stitches remain then decrease every rnd while maintaining established stitch
patterning until 12 stitches remain, cut yarn & draw through remaining stitches

Cuff:

pick up & knit 60 (72) stitches (pick up one leg of the edge stitch above the “frown”), 10 (12) stitches from each
mitred square and 30 (36) stitches from the foot panel

arrange stitches on needles to knit in the round using your preferred small circumference knitting method

then knit 2x2 garter rib:


rnd 1: (k2, p2) to end
rnd 2: knit all stitches
repeat rnds 1 & 2 for 1 inch or to desired cuff length ending with rnd 1 then bind off using a stretchy bind off or
sewn bind off (I used Jeny’s surprisingly stretchy bind off but with regular tension)

Afterthought heel:

with a ruler measure out the desired heel placement (*see note below) & mark the row with removable stitch
markers at the center, first & last stitch of the row
with a 2.25mm circular needle suitable for magic loop pick up the right leg of the row of stitches above the
markers. Do the same for the row below the markers. There should be a total of 56 (68) heel stitches picked up
(28 (34) stitches above the marked row & 28 (34) stitches below the marked row)

pull the center stitch marker up to stretch out the marked stitch and carefully snip the stitch. Using a tapestry
needle, pick out the stitches but stop 2 stitches on either side (this will lessen the gaps/holes). Leave the yarn
ends to use to neaten the holes

attach heel yarn


rnd 1:
needle one (the needle closest to the toe) = K2 then purl to last 2 sts K2
needle two = Knit all stitches
rnd 2:
needle one = Knit all stitches
needle two = K2 then purl to last 2 sts K2

repeat rnds 1 & 2 once more then begin heel shaping (same shaping as for toe):
rnd 1:
needle one = K1, ssk, purl to last 3 sts K2tog, K1
needle two = K1, ssk, knit to last 3 sts K2tog, K1
rnd 2:
needle one = Knit all stitches
needle two = K2 then purl to last 2 sts K2

repeat rnds 1 & 2 until 24 stitches remain then decrease every round while maintaining established stitch
patterning until 12 stitches remain, cut yarn & draw through remaining stitches

*this is the formula that I use for the heel placement:

my foot length = 9.25 inches, for snug fit use 9 inches


toe length of sock = 1.25 inches (size one), 1.5 inches (size two)

*foot length - toe length of sock - 0.75 inches (to account for stretchiness of garter stitch) = heel placement

for reference I wear a women’s US7, UK5, EU38

9-1.25-0.75‎= 7 (size one)


9-1.5-0.75‎= 6.75 (size two)

I hope that you enjoy knitting & wearing your cozy patchwork house socks!
size one
size two
all images & text copyright autumngeisha *this pattern may be used for charity knitting, donations and teaching 🩷

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