Apparel Manufacturing Engineering-II
Topics: Interlining & Lining
Prepared by
Md. Ramij Howlader
Assistant Professor, TE
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Interlining:
Interlining is a trim that is used between two layers of
fabrics in certain garment parts.
It is attached by sewing or fusing action.
Generally interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible.
It is made of cotton, nylon, polyester, wool and viscose
or blend fibers.
Shrink resist finish, crease resist finish are applied on
it for better performance.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Functions of Interlining:
To reinforce garment parts.
To make the garment parts lofty & insulated.
To retain the shape of the garment part.
To improve garment performance.
To increase aesthetic value of the garment.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Types of Interlining:
1. There are three types of interlinings based on construction--
a) Woven Interning
b) Knitted Interlining
c) Non-Woven Interlining
Clothing Materials & Store Management
2. There are two types of interlinings based on attachment
method ---
a) Non Fusible/Sewn Interlining
b) Fusible Interlining
a) Non Fusible Interlining:
It is fixed with the garment components by sewing
machine.
No adhesive is used.
Only sewn parts are attached with the garment.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Advantage Disadvantages:
To make flame retardant Quality is not good.
garments. Not suitable for large
Simple and easy production.
technique. Not available in
No elaborate machine is market so we need to
required. prepare it.
Possible to use in steel or More time required.
re-rolling or highly heated High work load and
industry. labor cost.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
b) Fusible Interlining:
It is fixed with the garment components with adhesive.
Adhesive is present on one surface in dried form.
Fusing machine or iron is used for attachment.
Three factors are important during attachment---
• Temperature
• Pressure
• Time
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Advantages Disadvantages
Appearance, shape and quality are High temperature is
same as others. required.
Available in market. Special care is needed
Cheap. during attaching
interlining.
Fusing time is less.
Labor cost is low.
Production is high.
Overall performance is better than non
fusible interlining.
Easy technique and no need of
especially skilled operator.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Interlinings are available in the market in following names -
Non fusible woven interlining
Fusible woven interlining
Non fusible non woven interlining (paper interlining)
Fusible non woven interlining (paper interlining)
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Classification of Fusible Interlining-
Polyethylene coated interlining
Polyamide coated interlining
PVC coated interlining
Polyester coated interlining
Polypropylene coated interlining
PVA coated interlining
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Differences Between Fusible & Non Fusible
Interlining
SL Non Fusible Interlining Fusible Interlining
Attached to the fabric by Attached to the fabric by means of
1
means of sewing. fusing.
2 No adhesive is required. Adhesive is present on one surface.
3 No temperature is required. High temperature is required.
4 Processing time is more. Processing time is less.
Not suitable for large
5 Suitable for large scale production.
production.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Fusing Processes:
There are four types of fusing processes ---
Single Fusing
Reverse Fusing
Sandwich Fusing
Double Fusing
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Single Fusing:
During attachment, fabric is placed at lower side and
interlining is kept on it with adhesive surface touching the
fabric. Application
of Heat &
Pressure for
a certain
time
Interning
Fabric
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Reverse Fusing:
During attachment, fabric is placed at upper side and
interlining is kept below it with adhesive surface touching
the fabric.
Application of
Heat &
Pressure for a
certain time
Fabric
Interlining
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Sandwich Fusing:
In this process two interlinings are attached in single
operation. At first fabric is placed on the table and
interlining is placed at upper side of the fabric. Again
another interlining is placed at upper side of the
previously placed interlining and then another fabric.
Two interlining resin must be in opposite direction.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Application of
Heat &
Pressure for a
certain time
Fabric
Interlining
Interlining
Fabric
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Double Fusing:
This is the fusing of two pieces of interlinings to a single
fabric in one operation.
Application
of Heat &
Pressure
Interlining 2 Interlining 1
Fabric
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Coating:
Coating is the process by which thermoplastic resin is
deposited or secured on to the base cloth of interlining.
Types of Coating:
Scatter Coating
Dry dot coating
Paste Coating
Film Coating
Emulsion Coating
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Fusing Equipment
Hand Iron
Flat bed fusing press
Continuous fusing press
High frequency fusing press
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Hand Iron
In this process interlining are fused by hand iron.
It is very difficult to control the time, temperature and
pressure by hand iron.
As a result the bond make by fusing is not stable for long
time.
The bond between interlining and fabric may be displaced
during washing of garments.
It is a cheap process for fusing.
Primary fusing of small parts of garments are done by hand
fusing iron.
In tailoring purpose it is mostly used.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Flat Bed Fusing Press
Generally this type of machine
consists of two beds, one is static bed
and another is running bed.
Static bed is buck and the running
bed is called head.
Buck surface is covered by a soft
beddings such as fabrics which are
lubricated by PTFE. As a result it can
removed melted resin, dirt or stain.
Sometimes heat generating system is
provided on the buck.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
At first, the part of garment which to be fused spread flatly on
the buck and then resinated interlining surface is placed on it.
After that, the head is placed down on the buck by switching
on and applied required pressure and temperature smoothly.
With completing the predetermined time of fusing, the head
is descends from the buck.
There are two systems are available of coming head and buck
such as vertical action and scissor action.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Quality Parameters of Fusing:
Appearance
Bond strength
Proper fusing
Shrinkage
Fabric color
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Defects of Fusing
Name of Description Causes
Faults
Striking When the resin is passed Not properly controlling
back through the lower part of pressure and
of the fabric is called temperature.
striking back.
Striking When the resin is passed Not properly controlling
through through the base fabric of pressure and
of interlining during the temperature.
fusing is called striking
through.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Lining:
Lining is generally a functional part of a garment, a
trim.
Sometimes it is called underlining.
They are available in warp knit or woven structure.
They are made from cotton, polyester, nylon, viscose,
wool etc.
Lining material can be used for small parts e.g. pocket
or for complete garments.
It can be used in coat, jacket , shorts, pants, kids wear
etc.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Purposes of Lining
To improve hang and comfort.
To add insulation.
To cover the inside of a garment of complicated
construction to make it neat.
To hide body from being observed in case of clear shell
fabric.
To add value to garment.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Difference Between Lining & Interlining:
Subject Lining Interlining
Used inside of the garment or
1. Placement garment components that is next to Used between two layers of fabric.
skin.
Attached either by sewing or by applying
2. Attachment Attached by sewing.
heat and pressure.
Sometimes shrink resist finish or crease
3. Finishes Finishing is not necessary. resists finish are required to improve its
properties.
Coating is used on inside surface of
4. Coating No coating is used.
fusible interlining.
To increase hang and comfort of To support, reinforce & retain actual shape
5. Purposes
the garment. of garment components.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Fiber Used in Lining:
Natural fibers are rarely used to construct linings due
to high cost.
Synthetic fibers are now the most widely used for
garment lining.
Woven fabrics (plain, twill and satin) and warp knit
fabric are widely used for lining.
Clothing Materials & Store Management
Requirements of Lining Fabric
Should not be cause any type of discomfort.
Should have low cost.
Surface of fabric should be smooth or plain.
Strength of fabric should be same or higher than the
upper fabric.
Should not be causes any color bleeding.
Yarn density in fabric should be very high.
