UNIVERSIT

Wolkite
Y

GARMENT ENGINEERING
DEPARTMENT

For 4th year Garment Engineering

By: Mekbib.Y
1
 UINIT - ONE
INTRODUCTION TO APPAREL
STUDIES AND APPRECIATION
 Course Objectives
 To enable students to develop skills for comprehensive analysis
and study of the various apparel product categories mainly
menswear, women’s wear and kid’s wear.

 To enable students to improve the understanding of the

principles of Garment Construction and Pattern Making and
their interdependence by Apparel appreciation.
To enable students to improve understanding of the Apparel

handling (fabric to ready product) in the industry as per the

current practices prevalent.
What is Apparel?
Apparels are:

Clothes

Garments

 Attire

 Dress

Apparel by itself is the over-all term for any article

of clothing worn by a man, woman, or child.

 Apparel Selection

These are some of the things that affect the clothing choices
that you make:

External Factors – those outside you

Internal Factors – those inside you

Feature of the garment – learning to dress well means

learning what suits your body
Apparel Selection
External Factors
Those things outside of you that affect
what you wear.
They may be the same for all of the
people around you.
External Factors – those outside
you
 Environment – (the weather, cold/warm)

OR
 External Factors – those outside you

Geographic Location – (stores in your

area sell only things that are popular in
your area)

Ambassador
 External Factors – those outside you

Lifestyle – (job or needs) – your parents’ wardrobes

meet their work needs; your wardrobe is that of a
student
External Factors – those outside
you
Time – (to shop) – one trip, or
time to look many places
External Factors – those outside
you

Money – (to buy) – how

much can you afford?
Internal Factors – those inside
you
These are the things that are personal
to you.

They express your personality and

values.
Internal Factors – those inside you
Personal Values –
(express personality) –do you
dress up or go casual?
Internal Factors – those inside
you
Needs and Wants – (need a
coat, want a leather jacket)
 Internal Factors – those inside you
Beliefs – (religion directs clothing
choice; T-shirt logo, etc.) – people
assume you believe what is written
on your shirt
 Features of the garment
The third factor that determine clothing choices need
understanding of the garments
Size and fit
Apparel study highlights the
Silhouette technical knowledge how to
evaluate a garment based on
Design
these criteria
Quality

etc
What is Apparel Studies?
 It gives introduction to the term 'apparel'
 Encourage exploration of different types of garments
 Help you learn, to view garments as products and it's various
elements/components??
 Facilitate students to view and understand garments more objectively and in
it's entirety
 Understanding of garment from the point of view of an apparel manufacturer
as well as a consumer.
 Visualize …….
 Why Apparel Appreciation?
 The word 'fashion' is most closely associated with clothing
 There can be umpteen number of variations in clothing- it goes beyond
just tops and bottoms
 Each component of the garment can have various modifications

 All of us are consumers of clothing/garment/apparel.

 Apparel is one the largest consumed commodity in the world after food
 What people wear is influenced by various factors like culture, society,
……..
Why Apparel Appreciation?

Hey, You really look great today!!

I have never seen you look better!!
 Why Apparel Appreciation?
 The meaning of word appreciation is

valuation assessment judgment

examination appraisal

 Apparel appreciation is the method of analyzing garment based on

 The material it made from

 Components it incorporate

 The silhouette of the garment

 The harmony of design elements etc

 Why Apparel Appreciation?
 The way apparel is judged by a layman is different from the
analysis of an apparel professional

 We judge others based on the clothes they wear

 Judging is necessarily a matter of opinion.

 But garment Engineers should judge based on informed opinion.

 The judge should make every effort to make selections in

accordance with established, up-to-date principles of clothing
construction and fashion.
 Appreciation of a garment
In judging clothing, the finished product is more important than

the method used, except where certain methods are part of the
requirements and must be taken into consideration.
Judging what looks good is based “Visual Ideal Silhouette.”

Ideal silhouette is the one which is attractive and pleasing to the

eye.
Colors, lines, designs and textures must be in good balance and

proportion with sufficient rhythm and emphasis to create harmony

with one another and with the individual.
What Makes Apparels?
What has gone into making of a
garment
1. Fabric
 Shell
 Lining
 Interlining
 Interfacing

2. Garment accessories and trims.

 Button, zipper, laces, beads, sequins, tassels, braids, embroidery,
embellishments etc
Material Used to Construct Apparel
 Shell fabric,
 Trims
 lining,
accessories
 interfacing
 interlinings
 Fabrics
 Fabric is the basic raw material of clothing industry.

 A wide variety of fabrics are available in today's market.

 An average consumer is unaware of many fabrics and their suitability

for a specific end use.

 It is essential on the part of a student who wants to garment engineer
and fashion designers, possess knowledge in types of fabrics and their
suitability
 The selection of an appropriate fabric is one of the most difficult jobs

for clothing manufacturer.

 Fabrics
 Quality of fabric influences the quality of garment.
 Not all fabrics are suitable for all garments.
 E.g. A shirt or blouse will typically use a lighter weight fabric than

pants or a skirt.
 Textile fabric, whether woven or knitted, forms -75% of the garment
cost.
 Fabric construction will influence the aesthetic, functional, and cost
qualities of materials and is the third characteristic important to your
choice.
 To choose a suitable fabric for a specific end use calls for basic
knowledge in fabric construction and types of fabrics available in the
market.
Fabric
 Fabrics can be used in garment construction as
 Shell: outer visible component
 Supporting: interlining, lining, interfacing, facing etc

Shell
Lining
Support Materials
 Interfacings, interlinings,linings etc.

 These affect overall aesthetic appearance of the style

 Basic function is to enhance and preserve shape of garment

 Most garments contain at least one of these components.

 Presence of these is considered as sign of quality

 Consumers however do not make purchase decisions based on these

components
 They must be compatible with garment shell.
Fabric
 Mostly fabrics can be

 woven

 knitted

 and some times laces and felts.

Woven Fabrics
 Woven fabrics are made by using two or more sets of yarn

interlaced at right angles to each other.

 Much variety is produced by weaving.

 Woven fabrics are generally more durable.

 They can be easily cut into different shapes and are excellent for

producing styles in garments. However the raw edges ravel or fray

easily and need to be protected.
 Fabrics having more fabric count (number of wrap and weft yearns

present) keep the shape well.

 Low count fabrics are less durable and may snag or stretch.
Cambric
 Cambric a light weight fabric

woven in plain weave and

produced with a stiff finish.
 It is suitable for women's

dresses and children's dresses

that require crispness.
Chiffon
Chiffon fabrics are sheer, light weight fabrics made of

hard twisted yarns.

Originally these are made in silk fabrics but today they are

made from rayon or polyester.

They are used for women's evening wear.

The fabrics encounter with the problem of shrinkage.

Corduroy

 It is a cut pile fabric available in solid colours.

 The cut pile fibres are seen in the form of ribs on the surface.

 It is mainly used for pants, jeans, jackets and shirts.

Crepe
A silk fabric is originally characterized by a crinkle,

puckered surface formed by highly twisted yarns in the

warp or weft or both.
By using ordinary yarns similar crepe effects can also be

produced.
Synthetic fabrics also impart crepe effect finish. It is used

for shirts, women and children's dresses.

 Denim
It was traditionally a yarn dyed, warp faced cotton twill

fabric.
Warp is usually colored (mostly blue, maroon, green and

brown) and weft is white.

This fabric is made of two weights for sports wear and

overalls.
It's use as jeans has made it very popular and so the nature of

denim is also changed to suit the trend.

It is often napped, printed and made with stretch yarn.
 Flannel
Flannel is a woolen fabric woven in plain or twill weave

having characteristic soft handle.

It looks like a bulky fabric due to the milling that is usually

done to this fabric.

Flannel fabric is used for suits and pants and infant's

clothing.
This fabric is popular as cleaning fabric due to its extreme

softness.
This is also used to protect children from cold atmosphere.
Gabardine

 Gabardine is a closely woven, clear finished warp faced twill fabric.

 It contains more number of warp yarns than weft yearns and also more

durable.
 It is usually woven in 2/1 or 2/2 twill and has a raised diagonal twill

effect on the right side.

 It largely used for rain coats, suiting and sports wear.
Georgette

 Georgette is a sheer light weight fabric, woven in plain weave.

 It has a characteristic rough texture produced by hard twisted ply, yarns

both in warp and weft.

 Originally it was made in silk, but today it is produced in rayon and

polyester too.
 It's mainly suitable for women's evening wear.
Velvet

 It is a warp cut pile fabric, originally made from silk. It is also produced

in Rayon.
 The dense cut pile makes it very soft and lustrous. It is used as dress

materials for women and children.

 It is also produced with special high twisted yarns which are single or

ply yarns.
 Based on the yarns used and twist given, they are named as semi voiles

(single yarns1x1) full voiles. (ply yarns 2x2) or half voile (double in warp
and single in weft 2x1).
Knitted fabric
 Knitting is the construction of an elastic, porous fabric, created by
interlocking yarns by means of needles.
 Knitted fabrics can be made much more quickly and easily than woven
fabrics at comparatively less cost.
 Knitted fabrics are generally light in weight, comfortable in wear even
during travel, but yet require little care to keep their neat appearance.
 The tendency of knits to resist wrinkling is another factor to boost up
their popularity.
 Knitted fabrics are used for designing active clothing such as sports
clothing. Their elastic nature permits for abundant physical activity.
 They are made as flat or tubular fabrics depending on the end use.
Jersey Knit

 These fabrics are weft knitted and are characterized by distinct but flat

vertical lines on the face and dominant horizontal ribs on the reverse
side.
 Fancy varieties are also produced.

 They are used in making hosiery sweaters, sports wear etc.

Rib knits
 These fabrics are made by using rib stitch with two sets of needles.

 These fabrics are used where stretch is desired as they show excellent

degree of elasticity.
 Rib knits are warm to wear.

 They are used as apparels such as shirts, blouses, body stockings etc.
Double knit
 Double knits are produced by the interlock stitch. The fabrics is

riblike in appearance on both the sides.

 Decorative fabrics are also produced by jacquard attachment.

 These fabrics show good dimensional stability and are easy to cut

and sew.
 They do not require any seam finishes as the fabric does not ravel.

 They are firm, heavier, less stretchable and more resilient.

 Double knits are commonly made from polyester, cetate or wool

fibres. They find use as every durable apparels

Fabric Characteristics
There are four major categories of fabric characteristics. They are:
 Style characteristics

 Utility characteristics

 Durability characteristics

 Product production working characteristics

Fabric Characteristics
 Style Characteristics

 The three senses used for style response are visual, tactile, and hand

(kinaesthetic).

 Utility characteristics
 These characteristics are the changes in the fit, comfort, and wearing

functions of the garment when the fabric engages a mechanical, thermal,

electrical, or chemical force during the utilization of the garment.
Fabric Characteristics
 Durability characteristics

 are the capabilities of a fabric to maintain the style and utility

characteristics during wear.

 Product production working characteristics

 are characteristics which affect the quality of production with

respect to quality values and the cost of the production method.

LINING
 Lining
 It’s a light weight fabric sewn to garment, to give a finished

appearance to the garment interior.

 It also contributes support and shape retention to garment, adds

to the quality of garment, provide opacity and additional warmth.

 Lining can be complete as in coats or partial as in skirt.

 Linings can be woven, non-woven or knitted

Lining
 Enhances appearance of the inside of the garment

 Could also serve functional purposes-comfort, hand feel, wearing

the garment, providing additional warmth, provide opacity to sheer

fabrics
 Add quality to garment
Lining
 Lining give the following functions

 To maintain the shape of a garment

 To improve the hang

 To improve comfort by allowing easy slip on and off

 To add insulation

 To cover inside a garment of complicated construction to make it

neat
Classification of Lining
Lining Material
• Lining material should be attractive, silky, light-weight, durable,
absorbent, resistant to staining and static-free.
• They should also comfortable to wear and same care requirement as
the shell material. Linings are generally made of
• Polyester
• Acetate Rayon
• Poly-Viscose Blend
• Nylon
• Silk
• Wool
• Cotton
 Method of attachment

1. Full lining:
• There can be full lining and cover the inside of garment
completely or

2. Partial linings:
• Partial linings that cover only portion of the interior.
These are common in men’s jackets in which they are
used in front ,sleeves ,and upper back. In ladies skirt
they extended from waist to just below the hip.
Linings Used in Men's and
Women’s Wear
 Jackets, sport coats and blazers

 Shirts - dress, casual and knit

 Jeans

 Trousers

 It provides soft and bodyful fusible interfacing for the application of lapels,

fronts, flaps and component parts in men's jackets, sport coats and blazers.
Non - Woven Linings
Non - Woven Linings
 Scattered non Woven linings is available in different GSM from 20

GSM to 65 GSM in different widths of 6-60 inches having scattered

fusing to the best of quality.
 Microdot non Woven linings is imported across the world for

applications in exclusive garments of premium range. These are

applicable basically for stretch fabrics (knitted) and other fabrics to
retain softness, shape and style of applications in the garment. The
product range is available in GSM as of lightweight, soft, stiff, well

branded linings. we can provide lining in specific widths also.

Knitted Linings
 Knitted Linings

 Knitted Microdot linings are available in different compositions, colours,

textures & widths. It is used in jackets, coats, blazers to give a wrinkle

free look.
 It is fusible lining available in lightweight and heavyweight. Polyester for

men wear and Nylon for girlish look (light weight), women coats, etc.
 It is available in different thickness and colours.  It offers wide range of

non-woven linings in felts, spun-laced micro punch fabrics for fabrics for
jackets.
 These are available in different colours. It can be provide with fusing of

different colours, textures, thickness and widths. 

Insulation Linings
 Insulation Linings

 These are material specifically designed for acoustic vibration

control. These products are generally used in the headliner, wire
harness wrap, door panel, hood liner and other related automotive
acoustic barrier fibreglass moulded parts.

 The present nonwoven product line fabric technology includes :-

 Thermo bond

 Resin bond 

 Hydro-entangled web 

 Spun bond Non woven 

Lamination Linings
 Lamination Linings

 Lamination Linings are used in shoes, leather, soles, etc. Felts, spun

laced, needle punched, stitch bond, non-woven nets (PP) are

available in different thickness/gsm, widths, textures and colours.
Lamination products are provided for:
 Non-woven to non-woven

 Film to film

 Non-woven to film
 Lamination Linings
 Features:

1. Deliver multiple structures into a single form in any multi-dimensional

shape.
2. Combine one to five layers of composite films made of polyester,
polyamide, polypropylene and polyethylene with various viscosity,
melt points and flow indexes.
3. Attach any film or non woven to any of our non woven structures
providing unique product characteristics to meet your requirements.
 Our non woven to film laminations specifically offer excellent barrier
properties to water, oil, foam migration, airborne chemicals, and exhaust.
INTERLININGS
Interlining
 Extra layer of supporting fabric used in almost all structured garments

 Helps to give body, shape and reinforcement

 Normally hidden between garment and a facing

 Areas commonly interfaced are collars, cuffs,button,buttonholes

areas,pocket openings and waistbands.

 Introduction
Introduction
 Interlining is a layer of fabric inserted between the face and the lining
of a garment, drapery, or quilt.
 Interlining materials can be woven, knitted, or created by fusing fibers
together.
 Interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible.

 Some interlinings are designed to be fused, while others are intended to

be sewn to one or both layers of the textile.
 Interlining serves as an additional layer of insulation.
 Introduction
Introduction

 Interlining can also be used to protect fabrics, especially those used in

drapes and consequently often exposed to direct light.
 Garments with interlining tend to be stronger, because of the added
layer of fabric support. In addition, they drape better, while keeping the
wearer's temperature relatively stable.
 Interlining generally bespeaks a higher level of quality in a garment,
because of the additional manufacturing time involved.

 Silk, wool, and artificial fibers with good insulating qualities are

common choices for interlining.

Classification of interlining

Interlining
Type
Type Of
Of Interlining
Interlining (Material
(Material wise)
wise)
HDPE (high density polyethylene) Soft, Medium Stiff, Stiff, One
side raised Microdot
LDPE (Low Density Polyethylene) Soft, Medium stiff, Stiff,
Marble finish, Microdot and Spray
Polyamide (Sonforised, Sco. one side raised poly)
Dyed fusible interlinings 
Non Woven
Easy Tear Paper
Soluble Embroidery
Mobilon Tape
Paper Foam
AREA OF USAGE OF INTERLINING IN
MEN'S WEAR
AREA OF USAGE OF INTERLINING IN
WOMEN'S WEAR