A night out in Vancouver used to involve poached lobster at Hawksworth Restaurant downtown, then a nightcap in the Gastown neighborhood, the one part of this seaport-meets-mountains city where you’re bound to stumble upon a reliably great cocktail bar. That’s still a solid plan, though now locals have shifted their attention east, to Fraserhood, the longtime Vietnamese enclave that’s about a 15-minute drive from Gastown. Over the last year or so some of the best restaurants and bars in Vancouver have opened up here. Les Faux Bourgeois was one of the first (it’s in an old pho joint), then came Osteria Savio Volpe with its handmade pastas (it’s now, without question, the toughest reservation to book). What makes Fraserhood stand out even more is how untrendy it feels, despite the surge in newcomers—plenty of old noodle houses, Asian fish shops, and grungy dive bars remain, if that’s more your speed.
THE FRASERHOOD SHORT LIST
The Café/Afternoon BarHave your cab drop you at Bows x Arrows, a coffeehouse on the south side of the neighborhood from where you can easily walk to the other bars and restaurants. Locals love this spot for its thick-cut sourdough toast and heirloom squash with cream cheese in the morning. But by 3 p.m., ristrettos are replaced by mezcals. It’s worth sticking around for dinner—the spiced-pork-and-lentil stew is fantastic.
The Gin JointIt’s pretty snug inside nine-month-old Crowbar—think of it as a 30-seat cocktail bar that also serves food (if you’re craving something more restaurant-y, hit its buzzy sister outpost, L’Abattoir, over in Gastown). Nab a barstool and order the Keyser Soze, made with smoked bourbon, oloroso sherry, and Angostura bitters. (And that smell? Yep, it’s marijuana. There’s a dispensary right next door.)
The New ClassicLes Faux Bourgeois (or Faux Bo, as the regulars say) is doing a good job channeling the old brasseries of Paris. The waiters are charming, with thick French accents, and the canard confit, finished in a port jus, is exceptional (the same goes for the garlicky escargot). It’s packed nearly every night, so be sure to book a table at least two weeks before your trip.
The Michelin ContenderOur tip for eating at Osteria Savio Volpe: Request a spot at the salumi counter so you can watch the team, including Mark Perrier of London’s two-starred Le Gavroche, prepping coppa and prosciutto while you sip Barbera and wait for that house-made pappardelle. And for all its modern blond-wood interiors, classics rule here, especially when it comes to cocktails. They serve just two—a Negroni and a spritz—a policy we’re totally on board with.
The Snack SpotWho wants jerky? Singapore’s famously moist jerky is cured and barbecued at family-owned BHK Jerky. They moved to the hood five years ago after three decades in Chinatown. Pro tip: Try the spicy-chili-roasted pork.