Republic of the Philippines

Department of Education
Regional Office IX, Zamboanga Peninsula

10
Zest for Progress

TLE
TAILORING
Quarter 4 – Modyul 1:
Draft and Cut Pattern

Name: _____________________________________
Grade & Section:_______________________________
School: _____________________________________
 Development Team of the Module

Writer: Joseph D. Baes

Editors: Joseph D. Baes
Jerry M. Perong
Ma. Perga A. Cadiente
Reviewers: Joseph D. Baes
Jephone P. Yorong, Ed.D
Illustrator: Roel S. Rudas
Layout Artist: June Rey E. Abila

Management Team: Romy Felix A. Triambulo, CESO V

Oliver B. Talaoc Ed,D
Ella Grace M. Tagupa, Ed.D
Jephone P. Yorong, Ed.D
Jerry M. Perong
 WHAT I NEED TO KNOW

After going through this module, you are expected to:

1. Disscuss and describe the measuring devices used in taking body

Measuremments.
2. Familiarize procedures in taking and recording body measurements.
3. Plan garment design.

WHAT I KNOW

Directions: Read the statement/questions below and encircle the letter

of the correct answer. 1 point each.

_____1. What is another factor aside from color to consider in fabric selection?
a. texture b. color c. fabric d. lines
_____2. What cloth that is woven and knitted fabrics of complex structure and
color combinations and best for dresses and suits?
a. jersy b. jacquard c. nylon d. linen
_____3. Which of the following is the best explaination for HIP CURVE?
a. It is straight measuring device used to devide the garment into
desired measurements. It has to arms, short and long.
b. It is used for connecting or shapping curve points. Infront the
measurement is by inch and at the back part will measure
centimeter.
c. This is used to shape the depth of the neck hole and arm hole of
the pattern.
d. It has flexibility required to the body measurement.
_____4. Which of the following instructions measure the waist?
a. Encircle taape measure on the fullest part of the upper body in line
with chest inserting two fingers in it.
b. Place the tape measure in line and around the smallest part of waist.
c. Place tape measure around the base of the neck.
d. Place tape measure in line and around the ankle and joint.
_____ 5. Which of the following instructions measure the neck?
a. Encircle taape measure on the fullest part of the upper body in line
with chest inserting two fingers in it.
b. Place the tape measure in line and around the smallest part of waist.
c. Place tape measure around the base of the neck.
d. Place tape measure in line and around the ankle and joint
 Lesson Draft and Cut Pattern for Athletic
1 Jacket

What’s In
Do you still remember your tools in Tailoring? This lesson will
refresh your knowledge on the use of measuring devices. Try to identify
the tools below. On the space provided before each item, write the name
of the tool. From the box, select the name of the tools. 1 point each item.

Tape Measure Hip Curve L- Square Ruler

French curve T-Square

______________1. .

______________3.
_________________2.

______________4.

___________________5.
 What’s New
PLAN GARMENT DESIGN

Fabric Selection
Texture and color are factors that play important part in fabric selection.
Texture refers to the smoothness or dullness of a fabric. Does it feel smooth,
silky, or soft? Color is the reflection of an object that appears to our eyes. Most
men preferred light colored toppers and neutral colored trousers. Fabric
designs also vary in choosing which lines of different weights are very
dominating among men’s apparel. Here are some fabric designs used on men’s
toppers:

Quality in Fabrics
Another aspect in the selection of fabric is the quality. This refers to the
garments’ properties such as: colorfast; shrinkage; wrinkle resistance and
wash-and-wear properties which are considered to be among the most desired
characteristics in clothing.

The following fabrics may help you decide what kind of fabrics will be
used for specific garment.

A-Z Guide to Fabrics on Men’s Apparel

ACETATE Silky finished drapes well. Blended with other fabrics, it adds to
their strength and beauty. It is made into fabrics like taffeta, satin, brocade,
jersey and linings.
ACRILAN It is wool-like, bulky and soft. Comfort without weight, good pleat
retention, recovers quickly from creasing. Woven and knitted, it is used for
dresses, suits and jumpers.
BROCADE All-over raised design with contrasting colors and surfaces, often
incorporating metallic threads. It comes in many weights for different
garments.
CALICO This is hard wearing plain weave, usually printed, in various weights.
Used for Shirts and interfacings.
CHAMBRAY (ch as in shop) Colored warp threads and a white filler thread
create attractive variations of stripped effects in plain cotton fabric. Children’s
clothes, shirt, pyjamas.
CORDUROY Ribbed pile fabric, hard-wearing; various weights. Skirts,
trousers, jackets.
COTTON Woven and knitted in many weights. (Most cotton fabrics listed
under generic names). All kinds of garments.
DENIM Strong, twill-weave fabric; hard-wearing. Various weights and colors.
Jeans, skirts and jackets.
DUETTE Double jersey. Suits, coats, trousers, skirts.
GABARDINE Twill weave, hard wearing fabric which can be shower-proofed.
Suits, coats, rainwear.
JACQUARD Woven and knitted fabrics of complex structure and color
combinations. Dresses and suits.
JERSEY Knitted fabric (single and double knit) in various weights. Soft; good
draping qualities; tends to stretch. Dresses, suits. (Double jersey with less
stretch is suitable for trousers).
LEATHER FABRIC Fabrics treated for special finishes to simulate leather.
Skirts, jackets. Coats, bags.
LINEN Plain weave natural fabric with uneven surface texture. Strong, cool
and absorbent. Skirts, trousers, coats.
MOHAIR Knitted and woven fabrics including natural animal hair; soft and
warm. Coats, jackets, shawls.
NYLON Fine woven or knitted fabric. Strong, non-absorbent, best blended
with other fibers; useful blended for all garments. Skirts, overalls.
ORGANDIE Sheer, woven fabric; can be very soft or crisp according to finish.
Blouses, party dresses, collars and cuffs. The crisp one makes excellent
interfacing.
P.V.C. Special, non-porous finish applied to woven or knitted base fabric.
Aprons, rainwear, coats, capes, jackets, hats and trous
RAYON Fabric made from regenerated cellulose – originally it resembled silk.
Now best blended with other fibers.
SAILCLOTH Strong, plain or basket weave fabric, originally stiff, for sails,
now softer. Skirts, jackets, trousers.
SATIN Special weave where threads ‘float’ over the base threads, giving a
sheen. Evening wear, trimmings.
9 SUEDE CLOTH Woven or knitted fabric finished to resemble suede. Skirts,
jackets, trousers, bags.
TOWELLING Looped fabric for absorbency. Originally pure cotton. Robes and
beachwear stretch baby and children’s wear, sport outfits.
TREVIRA (Trade name) woven or fitted fabric. Skirts, jackets.
TWEED Mostly woven but sometimes knitted. Usually checked patterns in
particular colors according to p[lace of origin, e.g. Harris Tweed. Suits and
coats.
VELVET Warp pile fabric, woven. Various types: cut velvet (faconne’) panne
velvet: (silky Pile smoothed one way). Various weights for day and evening
wear. Capes, coats, suits, skirts, dresses.
WOOL Woven and knitted as pure wool and it blends with natural and
manmade fibers to form many fabrics. Dresses, coats, suits, skirts.
WORSTED Best quality wool, tightly woven, smooth, strong, wears well. Fine
worsted for winter dresses; suit and coat weights.

How do we assess clients regarding his preferences? A sample form

will help you evaluate their needs.
 Today’s successful apparel designer has a philosophy of art, fashion and
history plus an understanding of the factors of one’s physical being. No matter
how well designed or beautiful a garment is, it will not be satisfying if it does
not contribute to the physical comfort of the wearer.

TAKING CLIENT’S BODY MEASUREMENTS

A perfect fit requires perfect measurements of the body, pattern and
fabric. Accurate measuring tools are essential for accurate pattern drafting.
Do you still remember your tools in Tailoring? This lesson will refresh your
knowledge on the use of measuring devices. The skillful use of these devices
will help take body measurements and drafting of patterns with accuracy and
speed.

Measuring/Shaping Devices and Their Uses

A. L-Square Divides the garment into the desired
measurement. It perfects squares and is useful in
making straight lines and numbers. It can also
function like a tape measure. It has two arms
connected perpendicularly.
1. The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long.
2. The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long.
Characteristic of the Longer Arm L-Square
1. In front of the longer arm, there are six (6) different columns. The numbers
found in every column are equal.
2. The six (6) column parts are: a. 1/24 b. 1/12 c. 1/6 d. 1/3 e. 2/3 f. By
inch or the 24 inches column
3. At the back are numbers made from 1 to 24 inches. At the corner of the L-
Square is an aluminum that holds the two arms in a 90 degree angle. Both
ends of the L-Square are secured with metal sheets.

Characteristics of the Shorter Arm

1. Starting from the corner of the short one we can observe the following: 16
a. 1/32 b. 1/16 c. 1/8 d. 1/4
In other L-Square the shorter arm has 16th, 8th, 4th, ½ and by the inches.
2. The back part of the arm contains a four-inch measurement. The two arms
are secured with a curved metal sheet on the inner portion.

B. The Hip Curve

This is used in connecting or shaping curve points.
The front part of the curve has a measure of inches.
At the back part is a measure of centimeters.
It is marked every five centimeters.

C. French Curve This is used to shape the depth

of the neck hole and arm hole of the pattern.

D. Ruler Ruler aids in connecting lines. They

are graduated in inches and centimeter which
are commonly made of either wood or plastic.

E. Yardstick This is used for general marking and for measuring fabric
grainline when laying out the pattern. It should be made of smooth,
shellacked hardwood or metal.

F. See-through Ruler This lets you see what you measure or mark. This ruler
is used to check fabric grainline and to mark buttonholes, tucks, and pleats.

G. Tape Measure It has the flexibility required to take body measurements.

Select a 60” (150 cm) long tape with metal tips, made of a material that will
not stretch. It should be reversible, with numbers and markings printed on
both sides.
H. See-Through T-Square Is used to locate cross grains, alter patterns and
square off straight edges.

After you have identified the tools to be used in taking body measurements
and shaping tools for pattern drafting , let us take a look on the different body
points and lines on men’s figure. You must have a mastery of this to ensure
that measurements are taken from and-to exact points.
Are you now excited for the first step in making a pattern? You need to prepare
the Personal Measurements Record (PMR) to register the measurements you
have taken from your client. The record should be kept so that when he comes
back for another project, you will just refer to it.

Below is a suggested format for a measurement record of your client.

HOW TO MEASURE FOR MEN’S APPAREL
A. Shoulder :Place the end of tape on shoulder tip passing the nape across
the other shoulder tip point.
B. Length of Shirt :Measure from the nape down to the desired length.
C. Chest :Encircle tape measure on the fullest part of the upper body in line
with chest inserting two fingers in it.
D. Waist :Place tape measure in line and around the smallest part of the
waist.
E. Hip :Place tape measure in line and around the fullest part of the hip.
F. Length of Sleeve (long): Place tape measure on shoulder tip down to the
elbow (halfway bent) and to the wrist. G. Wrist: Encircle tape measure in line
and around the wrist.
H. Length of Sleeve (short): Place tape measure on shoulder tip down to the
desired length of short sleeve.
I. Short Sleeve Circumference/Girth: From the measured short sleeve
length, place tape measure around the arms with the desired circumference.
J. Neck :Place tape measure around the base of the neck.
K. Length of Short Pants: Place end of tape measure on waist down to the
desired length of the long pants.
L. Length of Long Pants :Place end of tape measure on waist down to the
desired length of the long pants.
M. Knee Circumference :Place tape measure in line and around the ankle
joint.
O. Crotch or Rise : Have your client sit on a chair, then place tape measure
on waist location down to the seat. Add 1” to the measured length.

Efficient and accurate taking of body measurements depend on how

competent a tailor/dressmaker is. There are some pointers that you should
observe while taking body measurements. Try to follow them while enjoying
the pleasure they give.

POINTS TO REMEMBER IN TAKING BODY MEASUREMENTS

1. Ask the client politely to stand straight while taking measurements.

2. Use a soft flexible type of tape measure so it will be flat on the part to be
measured.
3. Tie a string on the exact waistline as a point of reference while taking
measurements.
4. Start with either horizontal or vertical measurements.
5. When measuring lengths, let the tape measure hang freely for a more
accurate measurement.
6. In measuring distances or widths, place the end of tape measure to the
exact point of reference.
7. In taking circumference, insert two fingers on the part being measured to
provide an allowance.
8. Avoid taking measurements in halves, fourths or eights if possible.
9. In measuring long sleeves, ask the client to bend halfway his elbow.
10. Always have a ready personal measurement chart for every client so you
can be sure that all measurements can be taken.
 To facilitate correct proportion of measurements, you can refer to the
table below any time you need it. This can help you create a well-proportioned
garment asked by your client.

What Is It
Answer the following questions, use the space provided below. After
reading the text or informations from WHAT’S NEW, what have you
discovered or learned from…

1. Planning of Garment Design?

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________.
2. Reminders in taking body measurement?
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
______________________________________________________________________.
 What’s More

Activity 1

Directions: Read each statement below. Put check mark √ in the box if the
statement is correct and put × mark if you think the statement is wrong. (1
point each item).

1.) Texture and color are factors that play important part in fabric selection
during planning of garment design.
2.) Another aspect in planning the design, the selection of fabric is also
important.
3.) Texture refers to the smoothness or dullness of a fabric.
4.) Corduroy is a ribbed pile fabric, best for hard-wearing; various weights.
Skirts, trousers, jackets.
5.) In designing garments, kinds or types of fabric is one of the factors to
consider.

Activity 2

Directions: Encircle the item number if the statement is about

taking the body measurement and box the item number if the
statement is not about taking body measurement. (1 point each correct
answer).

1.) To measure the shoulder, just place the end of tape on shoulder tip passing
the nape across the other shoulder tip point.
2.) Use a soft flexible type of tape measure so it will be flat on the part to be
measured.
3.) When measuring lengths, let the tape measure hang freely for a more
accurate measurement.
4.) Personal Measurement Record is necessary or important because the body
measurement of the client is recorded in this form and cutting pattern
before sewing is based from this measurement.
5.) I want to buy ready- to- wear because I can’t wait time
 What I Have Learned
After the several activities, let’s see if you can do this. Complete or finish the
phrase below by adding what you have learned personally. Use The space
provided for.

From this lesson, I have learned …

___________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________

__________________________________________________________________________

_________________________________________________________________________.

What Can I Do

After the lesson, do you think you can plan a design, explain the
measuring devices and take body measurement? Find out by
accomplishing the Performance Checklist honestly and sincerely.
Your teacher ask you to perform the skills found in Performance
Checklist. Rate yourself at scale of 1-4 in each skill base from your own
assessment and understanding. Just check the points you want to give to
yourself. Remember it is your learning that is at stake.

Follow the scoring rubrics (20 points)

Performance Levels
Can perform the skill without supervision and with 4 points
initiative and adaptability to problem situations.
Can perform the skill satisfactorily without assistance or 3 points
supervision.
Can perform the skill satisfactorily but requires some 2 points
assistance and/or supervision.
Can perform part of the skill satisfactorily, but requires 1 point
considerable assistance and/or supervision.
 PERFORMANCE CHECKLIST 1 2 3 4
Plan Garment design
Decides color and texture of fabric that suits to client
Discusss the purpose of Hip Curve
Measure the length of the Long sleeve
Measure the chest and shoulder

Assessment
Directions: Choose the letter of the correct answer. Write your chosen letter
on the space provided for. One (1) point each.
_____1. What is another factor aside from color to consider in fabric selection?
a. texture b. color c. fabric d. lines
_____2. Another aspect in the selection of fabric is the ____________.
a. darkness of color b. lightness of color c. quality d. price
_____3. What cloth that is woven and knitted fabrics of complex structure and
color combinations and best for dresses and suits?
a. jersy b. jacquard c. nylon d. linen
_____4. Which of the following is the best explaination for HIP CURVE?
a. It is straight measuring device used to devide the garment into
desired measurements. It has to arms, short and long.
b. It is used for connecting or shapping curve points. Infront the
measurement is by inch and at the back part will measure
centimeter.
c. This is used to shape the depth of the neck hole and arm hole of
the pattern.
d. It has flexibility required to the body measurement.
_____5. Which of the following statement discusses about tape measure?
a. It is straight measuring device used to devide the garment into
desired measurements. It has to arms, short and long.
b. It is used for connecting or shapping curve points. Infront the
measurement is by inch and at the back part will measure
centimeter.
c. This is used to shape the depth of the neck hole and arm hole of
the pattern.
d. It has flexibility required to the body measurement.
____6. Which of the following description for L- square?
a. It is straight measuring device used to devide the garment into
desired measurements. It has to arms, short and long.
b. It is used for connecting or shapping curve points. Infront the
measurement is by inch and at the back part will measure
centimeter.
 c. This is used to shape the depth of the neck hole and arm hole of the
pattern.
d. It has flexibility required to the body measurement.
____7. Which of the following instructions measure the chest?
a. Encircle taape measure on the fullest part of the upper body in line
with chest inserting two fingers in it.
b. Place the tape measure in line and around the smallest part of waist.
c. Place tape measure around the base of the neck.
d. Place tape measure in line and around the ankle and joint.
_____8. Which of the following instructions measure the waist?
a. Encircle taape measure on the fullest part of the upper body in line
with chest inserting two fingers in it.
b. Place the tape measure in line and around the smallest part of waist.
c. Place tape measure around the base of the neck.
d. Place tape measure in line and around the ankle and joint.
_____9. Which of the following instructions measure the neck?
a. Encircle taape measure on the fullest part of the upper body in line
with chest inserting two fingers in it.
b. Place the tape measure in line and around the smallest part of waist.
c. Place tape measure around the base of the neck.
d. Place tape measure in line and around the ankle and joint.
_____10. The following are the reminders about body measurements, except ________.
a. Ask the client politely to stand straight while taking measurements
b. Start with either horizontal or vertical measurements
c. Ask client about her account.
d. Always have a ready personal measurement chart for every client.

Additional Activity
Directions: Put ∕ the column under YES if you think you can do
alone and put × the column under NO if you think you need
assistance or help with the following skills.

Skills YES NO
1. Can I make my own design?
2. Can I measure sleeves?
3. Can I measure length of the garment?
4. Can I use tape measure?
5. Can I prepare Personal Measurement Record?
 Home Technology, SEDP Edition,
References
Assessment
WHAT I KNOW
1. a 1. A
2. B
2. c 3. B
4. B
3. b 5 5. C
5.√
4. b
4 4. √
5. d What’s In
6. a
3.√
3 1.Hip Curve
2. L-Square
7. a
2.√
3. French Curve
2 4. Ruler
8. b 1.√
5. Tape Measure
9. c 1 Activity 1
10. c Activity 2
WHAT’S MORE
Answer Key
 Region IX: Zamboanga Peninsula Hymn – Our Eden Land

Here the trees and flowers bloom Gallant men And Ladies fair
Here the breezes gently Blow, Linger with love and care
Here the birds sing Merrily, Golden beams of sunrise and sunset
The liberty forever Stays, Are visions you’ll never forget
Oh! That’s Region IX
Hardworking people Abound,
Here the Badjaos roam the seas
Every valleys and Dale
Here the Samals live in peace
Zamboangueños, Tagalogs, Bicolanos,
Here the Tausogs thrive so free
Cebuanos, Ilocanos, Subanons, Boholanos,
With the Yakans in unity
Ilongos,
All of them are proud and true
Region IX our Eden Land
Region IX
Our..
Eden...
Land...

The Footprints Prayer Trees by Joyce Kilmer

One night I had a dream. I dreamed I think that I shall never see
that I was walking along the beach A poem lovely as a tree.
with the LORD.
A tree whose hungry mouth is prest
In the beach, there were two (2) sets Against the earth’s sweet flowing
of footprints – one belong to me and breast;
the other to the LORD.
A tree that looks at God all day,
Then, later, after a long walk, I And lifts her leafy arms to pray;
noticed only one set of footprints.
A tree that may in Summer wear
“And I ask the LORD. Why? Why?
A nest of robins in her hair;
Why did you leave me when I am sad
and helpless?”
Upon whose bosom snow has lain;
And the LORD replied “My son, My Who intimately lives with rain.
son, I have never left you. There was
only one (1) set of footprints in the Poems are made by fools like me,
sand, because it was then that I But only God can make a tree.
CARRIED YOU!