Lesson 11

PLACKETS AND OPENING

Introduction

Plackets are finished openings constructed in order to make it easy to put on or take off a garment.
Sometimes they are used purely as a design element. When the garment is in use, plackets are kept
closed (for good fit) with the aid of fasteners such as zips, buttons and buttonholes, press buttons,
hooks and eyes etc. They are used at waist lines, neck lines, wrist and other snug fitting parts of
garments. A placket may be made in an opening left in a seam, or in a slash cut in a garment. The
placket made in a seam is stronger and gives a better finish when completed.

Learning Outcomes

At the end of this lesson, you are expected to:

 . Discuss standards in plackets construction
 Sew different of plackets

ACTIVITY

Group the following words according to its function and definition,

 zipper, buttons, hook, eye, flat filled seam, hem, measurement, sleeve length,
hip curve, waist line, bust width, arm hole, onfold, French seam, dart,
Analysis

1. Summarize the words above in 1 sentence with maximum of 6 words.

_________________________________________________________________________.

2. How would you relate the words above to your life as a student taking this course?

Abstraction:

A good placket should meet the following standards:

(1)Neatness and invisibility: Unless used as a decorative detail, a placket should be as inconspicuous
and flat as possible. It should not be bulky, puckered or stretched. Fastenings should hold securely
and there should be no gaping edges.

2) Suitable length and convenience: Neck openings must admit the head easily. So plackets in
dresses should be 9″ (inches) to 12″ (inches) long. Skirt openings should be long enough (about 7
inches) to ensure that the garment can pass over the shoulder and hips without strain. Wrist
opening can be about 4 inches long to enable the sleeve end/cuff to pass over the hand. The
position of the placket should be such that it is easily accessible and convenient to operate.

(3) Strength: Openings are subjected to certain amount of strain during wear and should be
strengthened at the closed ends, example lower end of neck and of skirt openings, upper end of
wrist openings etc. For plackets in seams to be durable, the garment seam should be at least 5/8 ″
(inch) wide. Seams should not be trimmed or clipped too close.

(4) Correct lapping: Plackets should lap right over left for women’s garments and left over right for
men’s garments.

(5) Suitability: The type of placket used should be suitable to the kind of garment on which it is used,
its position in the garment, texture of the fabric, age and sex of the wearer and current fashions.

Plackets openings are generally classified as:

•Inconspicuous plackets

•Conspicuous plackets

All the plackets are made conspicuous or inconspicuous depending on their placement in the
garment or as per the fashion. Mostly, all woman garments use inconspicuous plackets and gents
tailored made garments use conspicuous plackets.

INCONSPICUOUS PLACKETS

Inconspicuous plackets are not seen when the garment is put on. The continuous bound placket,
bound and faced placket and zipper plackets are example of inconspicuous plackets.

Continuous bound placket: A single straight strip of fabric is used to finish the opening where a part
of it forms a binding and the other half is facing. Generally the underlay is bound while overlap is
faced. This is called one-piece placket and may be made in a seam or a slash. It is suitable for
children’s dresses, undergarments like saree petticoat, and for sleeve openings where a cuff or band
is used. It is not suitable for curved seams and on bulky fabrics.

Method:

To make a placket in a slash:

1) Cut a strip of fabric on the lengthwise grain, 11/4″ (inch) to 11/2″ (inch) wide
and one inch longer than twice the length of the opening. Keep the center of a
long edge of the strip to the end of the slash, with right sides of garment and
strip facing each other.

2) Pull back the tip of the slash about ¼″ (inch) from the edge of the placket strip
and pin.
3) Spread the placket edges apart almost into a straight line and attach to the strip by a line of
tacking worked ¼″ (inch) from the edge of the strip as shown in Fig.A.

4) From the garment side, machine over the tacking line from one end up to its midpoint. Stop the
machine, at this point with the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and move the fullness
backward out of the way to prevent catching a pleat. Make sure that the garment edge is caught in
the seam. Lower the pressure foot and stitch to the opposite end of the opening

5) Press the seam edges towards the placket strip and fold under the free edge of
the strip ¼ ″ (inch) and crease. Then fold the strip over the seam edge and hem it
along the stitching line Fig.B.

6) Fold the strip under on the overlap section as illustrated in Fig.B and tack it at
the seam. Tacking can be removed after the fasteners are fixed.

To make the placket in a seam: reinforce the end of the seam below the opening with back stitching.
Clip into the seam allowances at the end of the opening, and then trim the seam allowances to
¼″(inch) from this point to the end of the opening. After this the steps in completing this placket are
the same as for the placket in a slash.

Bound and faced placket or two-piece placket: For this two separate strips of fabric are used. Width
of the overlap is narrow while the underlap is a wider one [approximately 1″(inch) difference
between the overlap and underlap]. Both the strips should be one inch longer than the placket
opening. This is mostly used in the left seam of skirts or petticoats and back seam of dresses. The
underlap side of this placket can be finished with a binding and the overlap with a facing.

Method:

1) Stitch the narrow strip to the overlap side of the garment (front of the skirt) and the wide strip to
the underlap side of garment (back part of the skirt) right sides facing and seam lines matching
(Fig.A).

2) The seam allowance used for attaching the strips should be the same as that of
the seam on which the placket is being fixed (about1/2″ (inch). This is to ensure
that the stitching line on the strip comes in line with the stitching line on the seam.
The one inch extra length of the strips should extend below the placket opening.

3) To finish underlap, crease the strip back over the seam, bring its free edge to the
wrong side of garment, and turn under ¼″ (inch) at the free edge and hem the fold
to the stitching line. This forms the bound side of the placket and should be ½″ (inch) to ¾″ (inch
wide).

4) For finishing overlap section of the placket make a ¼″ (inch) or wider fold to the
wrong side of its free edge so that the distance from the stitching line to the fold
line is the same as the width of the binding on the underlap. Now turn the strip
over completely to the wrong side of the garment (as for a facing) and hem or slip
stitch the fold to the garment.

5) Work a line of stitches at the base of the placket catching the underlap and
overlap together (Fig.B). This can be done by hand from the wrong side in such a
way that no stitches are visible on the right side.

Use the same fabric for light-weight garments and a matching lining fabric for a heavy fabric.
Zipper placket: The zipper is inserted in the seam. There are several methods of applying zippers.
The choice depends on the position of the zipper in the garment and the type of garment. Zipper
concealed, with two overlapping fabric edges and shows two lines of stitching is referred to as
centered/slot seam zipper placket.

Zipper concealed, with one overlapping fabric edges is called lapped seam zipper placket and only
one line of stitching is visible. The invisible zipper when closed, all that shows on the garment is a
plain seam and tiny pull tab.
Slot seam/Centre zipper placket: In slot seam zipper the two seam edges of the garment are folded
or faced over the center of the zipper chain and stitched equidistant and parallel to the finished
seamline. The top of zipper should be ¼″ below the finished neck line (if attached to top of the
garment); hence the placket or seam opening for the zipper should be ¼″ longer (exclusive of seam
allowance at neck line) than the metal part of the zipper. This extra space (¼″) leaves place for a
hook and eye to be fixed above the zipper or to finish down the facing so that the pull tab of the
zipper is not shown. If the finish does not require seam allowance to be turned down, for instance at
a waistband or on a standing collar, place the top stop just below the seamline.

Application of Slot/Centered zipper

1) Measure and mark the exact length of the placket opening, using the zipper as
a guide. Close the seam with machine stitching: stitch up to the mark for bottom
of zipper with a regular stitch length, backstitch, then
change to machine tacking for placket seam. Fig. A.

2) Clip both of the machine tacking threads at the

bottom of the placket; then clip only the bobbin
thread at one centimeter intervals –this will make
tacking easier. Press the seam open and, if necessary, seam-finish the
edges with a finish suitable for the fabric. Fig. B
3)Extend the right- hand seam allowance and place zipper face down, with the
top stop at mark and the edge of the opened ladder or chain along the seam
line; pin in place. Using a zipper foot, machine- tack along stitching guideline on
zipper tape. Fig. C.

4) Close the zipper and keep the pull tab up. Extend
the remaining seam allowance. Position the zipper
foot to the left of the needle and machine-tack the
unstitched zipper tape, from the bottom to top, to the
seam allowance, following the guidelines on the tape.
Fig. D

5) Turn garment right side up and spread it as flat as

possible. Starting at the centre seam, hand-tack across
bottom and up one side, ¼ inch from the seam line,
catching garment, seam allowance and zipper tape in tacking. Repeat on the other
side. Fig.E

6) Change to a regular stitch length. Begin at the bottom of

the placket, just outside the tack, and top stitch through all
three layers- garment, seam allowance and tape. Take 2 or 3 stitches across
bottom of placket, pivot, and stitch to top. Fig. F

7) Position the zipper foot to the right side of the needle

and top stitch the remaining side in the same way, taking
the same number of stitched across bottom of placket.
Pull thread ends to wrong side and tie. Remove hand
tacking stitches and open the placket. Fig. G

Lapped zippers: are often found on skirts at the waist band. A lapped
zipper is constructed so that the zipper is not visible. The zipper will
remain closed through the process of inserting the zipper.

Application of Lapped zippers On the wrong side of the fabric, measure

and mark the placket opening where the zipper will be placed. Do this
by measuring from the top of the garment down along the seam to the
zipper bottom stop. Take into consideration the composition of
garment and if there will be a waist band or any other special feature at
the top of the zipper. Mark the placement of the bottom stop with a
marking pencil. While sewing the seam, machine stitch the seam closed
until the marked point of the bottom of the zipper, then switch to a
basting stitch for the distance of the placket seam

1. Press seam allowance open (Fig.A)

2. Unzip the zipper partially. Align left side of the zipper teeth with the folded edge
of the fabric.(Fig.B)

3.The right side of the opening forms ‘lap’. Mark the

stitching line 3 /8″ away from the opening. Basting the
zipper will help to keep it aligned. (Fig. C)

4. Replace sewing machine foot with a zipper foot. Starting at

the top of the zipper, sew along the folded fabric edge. (Fig. D)

5. Continue sewing on the left side of the zipper opening

until the end. Stop sewing just at the end or little bit past
the end of the zipper opening (Fig. E). If the zipper stopper
(the metal bit at the end of the zipper) is on the way sew
few stitches past it.

6. With the needle in the fabric, lift the zipper foot,

turn the fabric to 900clockwise, then lower the zipper
foot and machine across the bottom of the zipper
(Fig. F) Advancing the machine by hand will ensure
accurate stitches.

7. Once the zipper is sewn across 3 /8″from the

opening, with the needle in the fabric,lift zipper
foot,turn the fabric 900 (Fig. G), lower the foot and sew along the
guideline until the end. Make sure that the stitching line catches both the
seam allowance and the zipper tape.(Fig. H)When finished, lightly press
the lapped zipper placket.

Invisible zippers: The invisible zipper is different from a conventional

zipper in both appearance and installation. Invisible zippers are applied to
an open seam and to seam allowances only- there is
no stitching on the outside of the garment. They can
be used wherever conventional zippers are. Manufacturers supply a special
zipper foot, designed to fit all makes of sewing machine, for installing this
zipper. A conventional zipper foot may also be used to apply an invisible zipper.

Application of invisible zipper 1. Seam finish edges if needed, place open zipper
face down on the right side of garment, the teeth along seamline, top stop at
appropriate mark. Pin if necessary, fit right hand groove of the foot over coil.
Stitch to slider, backstitch, and tie thread ends at top. Fig. A
2) Pin the unstitched tapeface down to right side of the other garment piece. Width
of zipper tape should be on garment seam allowance. Position top stop at
appropriate mark and teeth along seam line. Fit left hand groove of foot over teeth.
Stitch as in step 1.Fig. B

3) Close zipper. Attach conventional zipper foot and

position to left of needle. Pin and tack seam below zipper.
Lower needle into fabric at end of stitching, slightly above
and to the left of the last stitch. Stitch seam to lower edge.
Tie thread ends. Fig. C

4) To hold zipper ends down, stitch each tape end to a seam

allowance only, not garment. Fig. D

5) Open up zipper, stitch across tops of tapes with the coil held
upright as shown. Fig. E

Fly Opening A fly on clothing is a covering over an opening concealing the fasteners such as zip,
velcro or buttons, used to close the opening The term is frequently applied to a short opening over
the crotch in trousers, shorts and other garments. Fly –front plackets are not as
long as most other zipper plackets and the zipper will probably require
shortening. This placket provides neat and durable closure.

Application of Fly-Front zipper 1) On the right front, mark curve of top stitching:
mark the symbol indicating bottom of placket. Stitch front crotch seam from
pattern marking to a point 1-1 ½ inch from edge of inside leg. Fig. A

2) With right sides together, tack right fly facing

to right front edge, matching markings. Stitch
from marking at bottom of zipper placket to
waist. Remove tacking stitches. Fig. B

3) Trim and grade the seam allowance; open out the

facing and press it and the seam allowance away
from the garment. Fig. C
4) Position closed zipper face down on right side of facing. The left edge of
zipper tape should lie along facing seam and bottoms stop of the zipper
should be ¾ inch from raw edge of facing. Top of zipper may extend beyond
upper edge of facing. Tack zipper in place turning up bottom of left zipper,
left zipper tape even with bottoms top. Tack left zipper tape to facing from
bottom to top. On right zipper tape, stitch close to chain or ladder, using
zipper foot and regular stitch length. Stitch a second time, close to edge of
tape. Fig. D

5) Turn facing to the inside on same line. Press on

outside of garment, taking fly facing to front, following
original tacked markings. Then top stitch from bottom to
top along tacked markings, being careful not to catch
left zipper tape in stitching. Pull threads to wrong side and tie. Remove all
tacking stitches. Fig. E

6) With right sides together, stitch fly shield facing to fly shield
on the unnotched edge. Trim and grade seam; notch the curve.
Turn shield to the right side and press. (note; if pants fabric is
bulky, cut the shield of the pants fabric and the shield facing out
of lining fabric.) Fig. F

To finish raw edge off shield, trim 1/4inch from shield on the
notched edge. Fold the facing over the raw edge of shield and stitch
close to the fold. Fig. G

7) Fold under and tack the edge of left pants front ¼ inch beyond
the seam line. Open zipper. Pin left front to zipper, next to ladder
or chain, working from bottom to top. Tack in place. Close zipper
to check positioning. Fig. H

8) To position fly shield, work from the wrong side, match

curve of shield to curve of top seam; pin temporarily. Fig. I

9) Turn unit back to right side and tack through all layers of
garment, zipper And shield. Remove pins. Open zipper.
Using a zipper foot, stitch through all layers from top to
bottom, close to ladder or chain. Pull threads to the wrong
side and tie. Fig. J
10) While zipper is still open, stitch across zipper tapes at waist seamline; cut off excess
zipper and tapes even with raw edges of garment. This must be done with the zipper
open so the slider is not cut off. Work a bar tack by hand or machine across seam line at
bottom of placket, catching in the shield. Fig. K

CONSPICUOUS OPENING AND PLACKETS

Conspicuous plackets: the placket is made after making a slash and is visible on the
garment. Tailored placket and bound neck opening are example of conspicuous placket.
Bound neck placket can be made decorative by attaching contrasting fabric or by
working box pleat in self or contrasting coloured fabric in the center front.

Tailored placket: This is commonly used on men’s shirt sleeve opening and on neck openings in
jibbas, guru shirts and children’s dresses. When used on children’s and ladies dresses, the strip used
for placket may be of a contrasting material for decorative effect.

Application on sleeve:

1) For the underlap, prepare a straight grain strip 11/2 inches wide and exact
length of the slit (say 5 inches).

2) Keeping one end of the strip exactly in line with the end of the slit and with
right side facing the wrong side of garment, stitch a ¼ inch seam joining the
edge of the strip to the correct edge of the sleeve opening.

3) Now fold ¼ inch under on the free

edge of the strip and machine this
folded edge along the stitching line.
Fig. A shows the underlap strip
tacked to thewrong side of garment and Fig. B & C show the
finished appearance of the underlap binding.

4) The overlap for this type of placket is usually shaped to a

point at the end, and is about one inch wide when finished
(Fig. C).For this cut a strip 21/4inch wide and 11/2 inch
longer than the slit (BC and AB in Fig. A) and make markings on the wrong side of the strip as shown
in Fig A. taking CD = length of slit and DE =EF = AG = AX 3/4 inch. Make sure that G and F are on the
same level and X is equidistant from them.

5) Trim off the strip along GXFED and mark the seam lines (dotted lines) ¼ inch inside the outer edge
as in the figure. Keep the right sides of the strip facing the wrong side of garment and tack the short
side of the strip to the free side of the placket opening on the seam line (Fig. A).

6) Machine stitch and bring this overlap strip over to the right side of the garment. Turn under the
seam allowance and adjust the position of the strip so that it will overlap the underlap binding.

7) Tack in position. Top stitch the strip to the garment upward from A to B, then around the point
and downward till point C (C is ¼ inch below the sleeve opening). Now stitch across the overlap from
C to B twice to hold the underlap in position. (Fig. C and fig. B shows this stitching as seen from the
right side and wrong side respectively. Note that the stitching has caught the underlap in position).
Pull back the underlap from under the presser foot and machine the overlap section alone from C to
D without catching the garment. Note: Remember to cut overlap strips as well as underlap strips in
pairs (for a pair of sleeves) from fabric folded with right sides facing.

Bound neck opening: This is a simple neck finish used on infants and
children’s clothes and dresses. To make this, slash the opening down from
the neck at center front or center back and apply bias
binding to the opening.

Center front opening with box pleat Fig. A

Application:

Task # 1 Let me try again!!!

Plackets and openings Cloth samples to be made of the following: Continuous bound placket, bound
and faced placket, tailored placket [sample size: 6″ X 6″]

Zipper plackets [sample size for each type of zipper placket: length of the zip + seam allowance X 6″]
Fly opening [sample size: 9″ X 5″ (2 pieces)

For point System : See rubrics for machine sewing rubrics( 30points each sample)

Task# 2 silent please!!!!!

Find used any long or short sleeve polo barong or any white polo altered the design through
constructing zipper plackets at the center back part of the polo (note: zipper must be from the collar
down to the hem of the polo)

For point System: See rubrics for Rubrics for remodelling

CLOSURE

W.H.E.W. We Have Ended Well !

Well done! Congratulate yourself. You have just finished Lesson 10, enjoy and go higher