Adjustable table plans

A table for the 2x72” tilting belt grinder

Some important notes:

1. To use this table, you will first have to build my 2x72” tilting belt grinder. Plans for it, the
platen attachment, and the table holder (the grayed out parts shown above) are available
here: http://etsy.me/2sm5uvg Plans & Sketchup models for all other attachments & jigs are
available on my website, here: http://jerswoodshop.com/2x72-tilting-belt-grinder/
2. It is assumed that you will build and use the belt grinder and its attachments in a safe
manner, therefore, few safety precautions are set forth in these plans. Build and use at your
own risk. I am not responsible for any injuries caused by the manufacture and use of the belt
grinder or this attachment.
3. It is assumed that you have a basic knowledge of fabricating and metalworking. These plans
will give you a few pointers and what techniques worked best for me, but they will not tell
you how to set your welder, etc., since I assume you already know how to do that. All welds
on the build may be ground & touched up for looks, so long as you don't grind away the
structure of the weld. Everything should be checked with a square prior to welding, and all
parts should be built with good precision, for best results.
4. Any drawing that says “1:1 scale” on it may be printed at 100% scale and used as a cutting
template, but check the dimensions after printing to confirm it printed to scale.
5. Painting should be left to the end of the build, after testing is complete. Some parts may
need to be modified slightly, so it’s best to leave painting for after that’s done.
6. If you haven't seen the YouTube build video for this table, please watch it prior to building
the table: https://youtu.be/OAoQLCXXbTk
7. If you have any questions, or if you find any errors in these plans, you can contact me at
jerswoodshop@gmail.com.


Page 1 Adjustable table plans © 2019 Jeremy Schmidt

Parts list:
“Used in…” indicates which step(s) in the plans use this part. Refer to that step or steps for
more information about that part.
Part/material name Size Quantity Used in…

Steel square tube 1-1/2” x 1-1/2”, 1/4” wall 9” Step 1

Steel DOM 1” O.D., 1/2” I.D. 4” Step 3

Steel plate or flatbar 3/8” thick 5-1/2” x 12” Steps 5, 7 & 10

Steel flatbar 3/16” x 3/4” 9-1/2” Steps 2 & 6

Grade 8 bolt 1/2”-13 x 6” 1 Step 6

Flat washers 1/2” 2 Step 6

Grade 8 locknut 1/2”-13 1 Step 6

Grade 8 bolt 3/8”-16 x 1-1/2” 1 Step 7

Flat washers 3/8” 3 Step 7

Grade 8 nut 3/8”-16 1 Step 7

Nomenclature:

Table surface

Locking slot Table frame

Locking tab
Hinge bolt

Locking bolt & Hinge (DOM)

locking nut

Table post

Page 2 Adjustable table plans © 2019 Jeremy Schmidt

Step 1 5/8”
Start by shaping one end of the 9” long section of 1-1/2” square 3/4”
tube to the profile shown on the right. You do not need to make the
radius perfect, as you’ll be able to fill in imperfections with weld 45°
later.

1/2”
Step 2 radius 1/8”
Cut a 1” long piece of 3/16” x
3/4” flatbar to cap the sloped
side of the square tube. Chamfer
the edges that will be welded
together, then weld the flatbar in, 1:1
flush with the 45° end of the tube scale
as shown below. Grind the end
smooth so it looks like one
piece.

Step 3
Cut a 4” long piece of the 1” O.D., 1/2” I.D. DOM to
make the hinge. Make sure the ends of the DOM are
perfectly flat and square. You can use the belt grinder
to flatten and square the ends, using a table that is
exactly 90° to the platen. Repeatedly touch the end of
the DOM to the belt, rotating it between each touch. (If
you have a lathe, you can simply face the ends of the
DOM) Note that the length of the DOM is not as critical
as the squareness of the ends, so it’s ok if you
accidentally make it a bit shorter than 4” while flattening
the ends.


Page 3 Adjustable table plans © 2019 Jeremy Schmidt

Step 4
Set up the DOM hinge and the table post to be welded together. Clamp the DOM directly to a
flat surface, then place the table post on top of a 3/8” thick spacer, so the curved cutout in the
end of the post fits around the DOM. Make sure the spacer is clean and flat, so the post will sit
flat. Be sure the post is square to the DOM and centered side-to-side. Clamp it down so it can’t
move, then tack weld the post & hinge together at the corners. Once the parts are securely
stuck together you can remove the clamps and finish welding it solid.

Weight (used
as clamp)

Table post

3/8” spacer DOM hinge

Step 5
3”
Start making the table
frame by cutting out the two
1:1 scale 5/8” 45°
parts shown on the right 3/4”
from 3/8” steel plate. These 1/2”
1/2” hole
drawings may be printed
and used as a template. I 3/8”
made the slot in the lower
part by drilling a series of
holes and filing between
them. The slot needs to be
at least 3/8” wide so it can
5/8” 45°
rotate freely around a 3/8” 3/4”
bolt, but I recommend 1/2”
oversizing it to about 7/16”.
This will make it much
1/2” hole
easier to make the slot, and
will also give the table angle
a bit of overtravel. If you are 1/2” 1:1 scale
recreating these shapes
from the dimensions, it
works best to start with the Slot wide enough for
top surface & the 1/2” hole 3/8” bolt (I recommend
and referencing everything oversizing the slot). Slot
from those.
 center is 2” from 1/2”
pivot hole.

Page 4 Adjustable table plans © 2019 Jeremy Schmidt

Step 6 Top edges parallel
Bolt the table frame sides onto the DOM hinge, as
shown in the photo on the right. Be sure you have
the side with the locking slot on the right side, as
shown. Make sure the top edges of the frame sides
are parallel (you can press them against a flat
surface to get them parallel), then tighten the bolt to
keep them parallel. Cut two 4” long sections of 3/4”
x 3/16” flatbar, and weld them in between the sides
to serve as the crossmembers of the table frame.
The front one should be flush with the angled
edges, and the back one flush with the back ends
of the frame sides, as shown in the photos below.

Step 7
Cut out the locking tab shape shown on the right 2-1/8”
1/2”
from 3/8” steel. Loosely assemble the tab onto the radius
table frame by placing a 3/8”-16 x 1-1/2” bolt
through the tab and through the locking slot, with 1-1/2”
two 3/8” flat washers between. Put a washer and 1”
nut on the outside of the slot to hold it in place as 2”
shown below. Make sure the bolt moves freely
through the slot without binding. 

3/8” hole, concentric 1:1 scale
with end of tab

Two washers

Page 5 Adjustable table plans © 2019 Jeremy Schmidt

 Top of frame
square to post
Step 8
Adjust the table frame so its top surface is perfectly square to the
table post. I did this by placing the table frame upside down on a flat
surface, and aligning the table post to a square sitting on the same flat
surface. Tighten the
hinge bolt to hold it in this Weld only across ends
position. Slide the tab to
the end of the locking slot, so
it’s at 45° to the table post,
and tighten the locking bolt
to hold it there. Weld the
locking tab to the DOM
hinge. I recommend only
welding it across the ends,
and not along the sides,
since welding on the sides
could make the tab warp Not along
side-to-side, which will sides
interfere with how it locks.

Step 9
Remove the hinge bolt & the locking nut, and
take the table frame off. The locking bolt
will be captive at this point. Use a nut to
Weld
hold it tight against the locking tab, then
weld the bolt head to the tab.

Step 10
Make the table surface from 3/8” plate.
You can make it whatever length and
width you want, but I made mine 8” x
5-1/2” and I think that’s a good size.
One edge of the table needs to be
beveled to 45° to fit against the belt
when the table is tilted to 45°. I also put
a ~1/2” radius on the corners so they
aren’t sharp.


Page 6 Adjustable table plans © 2019 Jeremy Schmidt

Step 11
Place the table frame upside down
on the bottom of the table surface,
as shown on the right, and center it
side-to-side. The beveled edge of
the table surface should protrude
slightly from the angled end of the
table frame. Lightly tack weld the
table frame to the table surface at
about eight points. Don’t weld this
solidly, or you’ll warp the table
surface; a few tack welds are plenty
to hold it.

Table
edge
should
be a bit
proud of
frame
Tuning
You’re done building the table, but before painting and
using it, you should check that it has the full range of
travel. Put the platen attachment in your grinder, in the
vertical orientation, and put your adjustable table in the table holder. Tilt the table as far down as
it will go, and measure the angle between the table and platen to be sure it goes far enough
down. Tilt the table all the way up, and check that it can travel far enough to be square to the
platen. If it does not travel far enough in one or both directions, you can file the end of the slot to
make the slot longer. Once it has the full range of travel, you can disassemble and paint the
table. I recommend leaving the table post unpainted, as well as the contact points of the hinge,
and the top of the table surface. Reassemble the table, and it’s ready to use.

Page 7 Adjustable table plans © 2019 Jeremy Schmidt