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The legs of three people wearing smart attire with ballet inspired Speedcat shoes.
Puma's ballet-inspired Speedcat shoes. Photograph: PR/Claudia Vega
Puma's ballet-inspired Speedcat shoes. Photograph: PR/Claudia Vega

The sneakerina: must-have item or step too far for hybrid fashion?

Hot on the heals of the ‘snoafer’, the ballerina flat/sneaker mashup is emerging as a key footwear trend for spring

First came jeggings. Then skousers. Now there is a new hybrid entry being added to the fashion lexicon. The sneakerina. Yes, shoes that are an amalgamation of a ballerina flat and a sneaker are quickly emerging as a key footwear trend for spring.

The top of this new cross-breed typically features all the delicate design features of a traditional ballet flat such as bow detailing and an almond-shaped silhouette, but the classic flat sole has been replaced with a chunkier heavy-duty version usually found on a sneaker.

Just like a cronut or a crookie, it sounds unappealing on paper but in reality it is a combination that is enticing consumers. A £730 suede version from Miu Miu that includes a scuff-proof rubber sole and Velcro strap has sold out. As has a £75 satin and ruched version from Charles & Keith. Joy Montgomery, the shopping editor at British Vogue, pegs their popularity to “the evolution of fashion’s ugly shoe narrative”.

Cece satin and bow sneakers, £75, Charles & Keith.

The Irish designer Simone Rocha was one of the first to experiment with the combination, debuting her “ballet tracker” shoes with a heavyset sole and crisscross straps adorned with pearls and crystals in 2020. They have since become one of her design signatures. Rocha describes them as “a perfect blend of a traditional ballet style shoe, but still sporty”.

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Kiko Kostadinov’s Lella hybrid. Photograph: Alessandro Viero/Gorunway.com

Last year, a collaboration between Cecilie Bahnsen, a Danish designer known for her whimsical and romantic dresses, and the running brand Asics, sold out within 10 minutes. Some pairs now fetch triple the original price (£200) on resale platforms.

Meanwhile, Puma has given its popular Speedcat sneakers a ballet twist for 2025. The sneakers that originally launched in 1999 have recently replaced the Samba after the former prime minister Rishi Sunak wore the Adidas shoe, killing their cool in the process. Puma’s latest take is inspired by archive ballet flats and features pre-sewn elastic straps and a metallic finish.

Sisters Laura and Deanna Fanning, creative directors behind the womenswear division of Kiko Kostadinov, launched its first hybrid shoe in 2023. The “Lella” features a raised sole, a faux fur lining and grosgrain ribbon fastenings. The duo explain it worked with the theme of the collection that “involved blending classically feminine garments and antique typologies with easier modern-day counterparts”. They describe the style as having “the elements of the ballet shoe which can be fetishised and grounded with practical speediness”.

The ‘snoafer’… New Balance’s 1906 Loafer, £120.

Unlikely pairings are a growing trend in footwear. Last year New Balance birthed the “Snoafer” when it released its 1906L model, which marries a sneaker and a penny loafer. This week, the running experts Hoka joined the Frankenshoe era with the launch of its “Speed Loafers”, which are a cross between a boardroom dress shoe and a trail runner.

Montgomery attributes the stylist Annabelle Bornstein’s viral “wrong shoe theory”, which suggests pairing an unexpected shoe with an outfit, to the growing trend’s success. In the sneakerinas’ case, Montgomery suggests wearing them with smart tailoring. “The idea being that the pump will introduce an edge to items traditionally considered more formal or corporate,” she says.

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