When in Rome … go where the Romans go, not the tourist crowds
The Eternal City’s monuments and museums are busy at the best of times, but there remain myriad treasures to explore that are well off the beaten track
May 2024
A different Roman holiday: novelist Conn Iggulden on the city’s lesser-known wonders
The bestselling historical fiction writer, whose new book, Nero, is out today, urges visitors to the Eternal City to make time for the quieter pleasures on offer around its seven hills
February 2024
‘What rules today is money’: Rome’s five-star hotel boom
Rome isn’t all ruins – check out its breathtaking contemporary art and design, too
January 2024
‘We came away awestruck’: 13 writers on Europe’s hidden treasures, from Chagall in Kent to Rome’s secret Caravaggios
David Bowie’s Berlin bolthole and the world’s most stolen artwork in Ghent are among the cultural icons that our writers have long wished to visit
July 2023
Pass notes
‘I woz here!’ Why do tourists keep defacing the Colosseum?
Visitors have been caught carving their names into one of the world’s most famous buildings. Is this the best way to achieve immortality? And where do toilets fit in?
June 2023
Square where Julius Caesar was killed will open to public in Rome
Tourists in the city will be able to examine the spot where the Roman dictator was said to have been murdered
January 2023
A solo trip around Europe, with my travel phobia? I only wish I’d done it sooner
My first trip alone was daunting, but the romance and beauty of Paris, Florence and Rome helped me conquer my fears
December 2022
‘Forgive me, Father, for I am in the mood to sin’: how the ‘hot priest calendar’ became a publishing hit
If cassocks, dog collars and muscular Christianity are your thing, you’ll love the ‘calendario Romano’, now approaching its second decade
June 2022
Amanda Claridge obituary
Archaeologist and historian whose comprehensive guide to early Rome appeals to tourists and scholars alike
August 2020
A city out of time: what do we dream of when we dream of Rome?
On a writing grant to the eternal city an Italian-born Australian encounters its two faces – the tourist’s fantasy and the residents’ reality
May 2020
Trekking the Sabine Hills: in praise of Italy, summer and freedom
Life after lockdown: ‘Rome is trying to find her equilibrio’
November 2019
Walking in Italy: on the trail of Saint Francis of Assisi
We follow a trail through Umbria’s green hills walked 800 years ago by Francis of Assisi – the ‘first environmentalist’ – but swap prayer and poverty for soft pillows and handmade pasta
September 2019
Food, wine and antiquity in Frascati and the Roman hills
On sultry evenings, canny city-dwellers escape the heat for carafes of chilled white and traditional foods in maker-run wine bars a short train ride from Rome
April 2019
Romans revolt as tourists turn their noses up at city’s decay
Rubbish, potholes and metro closures contribute to anger among visitors and citizens alike
March 2019
The medieval castle near Rome that's now a hostel
An affordable stay in a magnificent setting just 40 minutes from Rome is perfect for mixing sightseeing with days on the beach
May 2018
A local's guide
A local’s guide to Rome: 10 top tips
Contemporary Rome’s best bars, restaurants and culture are found in the southern neighbourhoods of Testaccio and Garbatella, a world away from the city-centre gladiators in plastic armour
October 2017
TV review
Travel Man: 48 Hours in … Rome review – a gentle mini-break for the mind
Free world
From salami to art: how migrants helped turn Rome factory into a gallery
